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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 30, Issue 12 - Dec 2006
Volume 30, Issue 11 - Nov 2006
Volume 30, Issue 9_10 - Oct 2006
Volume 30, Issue 8 - Aug 2006
Volume 30, Issue 7 - Jul 2006
Volume 30, Issue 6 - Jun 2006
Volume 30, Issue 5 - May 2006
Volume 30, Issue 4 - Apr 2006
Volume 30, Issue 3 - Feb 2006
Volume 30, Issue 2 - Feb 2006
Volume 30, Issue 1 - Jan 2006
Selecting the target year
Sustainable Development -An Application to Apparel Supply Chain Management-
Kang Ji-Hye ; Jin Byoung-Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 829~839
Sustainable development is generally defined as an approach that 'meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs' (World Commission on Environment and Development: WCED, 1987, p. 43). The sustainable development is a holistic concept that encompasses three aspects: environmental protection, economic development, and social contribution. From the sustainable development perspective, environmental management must consider contributions to other economic and social aspects. In this sense, it differs from narrowed environmental management which focuses on only environmental impacts, and a well-being concept in Korea that mainly appeals to health. Recently, leading apparel firms, such as Nike, Otto, and Marks & Spencer, are increasingly adopting the environmental management to achieve the future competitive advantage. The environmental management can be achieved through integrated supply chain management. Despite of flowing importance of environmental supply chain management in practice, academic attention to this area has been seriously lacking. This study regards the environmental management by the sustainable development perspective as a solution for Korean apparel firms to solve their current sluggish growth. The purpose of this study was to provide Korean apparel firms with guidelines toward the environmental management based on extensive literature reviews and case studies. The paper started with two important research frameworks, the sustainable development and the environmental supply chain. Within the frameworks, the leading cases of the environmental management of Korean and foreign apparel firms were analyzed. Both macroscopic and microscopic applications of the environmental supply chain management for Korean apparel firms were suggested based on the analyses.
Research on Design Character Female Shoes in 1990's
Cha Eun-Jin ; Park Meeg-Nee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 840~850
This thesis that is written by inquiring the shoes of 1990's, is written in order to propose the method of analyzing the changes of shoes design systematically. The picture to be gathered was a content analysis low at ARS and Accessory Collegioni since though the research method took shoes to
. I categorized the design factors into shape, material, color, decoration. by using those category, the result of analysis of design character. In 1,990's, boots, pumps and straps were the most popular in upper, point and rounded cuban and french were the most popular in toe, leather was the most popular in materiel, suede in F/W and patent in S/S. Black was the most popular color, brown in F/W and white/beige in S/S were the second. Re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstructions of structures and shapes of shoes, shape that was expanded to other genre were appeared in character of design factor. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Recognition of shoes color was expanded by using unique colorations and abstract, fresh figure colors. Post-modem tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.
The Analysis of Wearing the Corset Using Narcissism -Focusing on 18C and 19C-
Lim Sung-Min ; Park Meeg-Nee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 851~858
The human have constantly pursued the beauty through the history. Especially, the pursuit for the beauty of the human's body means that the subject is at one with the object pursued by Ire subject, which so called as the most active behavior of searching far the beauty. However it sometimes shows that human have tried excessively to search for the beauty of the human's ideal body in the history, and to the degree of hurting the body. For example, the corset was eagerly worn by women with the hope of a satisfied silhouette because the slender waist and the busty bosom were demanded as the woman's ideal body at 18C and 19C(the age of Victorian). The purpose of this study was to investigate the corset fashion in 18C, 19C, one of the most aggressive fashions out of the unreasonable fads, using narcissism that Freud mentioned as inside energy called libido. And the reason why to use the theory of narcissism in this study was that fashion as social outcome is thought to be influenced by the environment but the wearing behavior is considered totally private, it is particularly when focused on the excess ive energy, and the scope was limited to the investigation into the source of the energy binding the own body to hurting. The analysis about this craze of a corset with the view of the theory of narcissism as follows. First, women could mold the ideal concretely in surroundings that ideal woman was constituted just to focus on the appearance, moreover, the mother reinforced the narcissism of their offsprings. Also, the society demanded women to be chaste, and did not allowed for women to reveal libido to the external. As a result of this, libido should be ended up concentrating on ego. With this process, it to be difficult for 'ideal ego' impossible for attainment to transfer to compromising product, ego ideal. That is, women did not think entirely to be out of the question to reach the ideal ego, which meant the energy to tight waists was given women.
Proposition for Conservation of Traditional Costumes -Mainly on the Replication of Milchanggun's Jobok
Chae Ok-Ja ; Park Chi-Sun ; Park Sung-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 859~869
We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication: a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication : a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated. Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok. The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on.
Knitting Plan of Silver Knitted Fabrics for Providing Multi-Functional Properties (Part I) -Studies on the Mechanical Properties and Hand of Silver Knitted Fabrics for Summer-
Kwon Young-Ah ; Park Jong-Sik ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 870~879
In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.
Aesthetic Features of Sportswear in the Early-2lst Century -Centered on New York Collections-
Ha Seung-Yeon ; Lee Youn-Hee ; Park Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 880~891
This study is to be focused on the sportswear combining common wear with the design elements of activewear. The objectives of this study are four designers in compliance with the book of Ann Marie Fiore and Patricia Anne Kimle; Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui and the times to be studied are limited to the early 21st Century from 2001 to 2005. Main results are as follow. This research divides sportswear into four groups; 'Function oriented style', 'Sensible style', 'Retro American sports style', and 'Street sports style'. Comparison of four designers' sportswear shows that Calvin Klein is function oriented, Donna Karan is function oriented and sensitivity driven, whereas Ralph Lauren focuses on retro American sports style along with function oriented characteristics. Anna Sui places emphasis on youth oriented street sports style. In terms of color, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use White & Black and natural tone while Ralph Lauren uses pastel tone, and Anna Sui uses mostly vivid colors. In terms of material, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use mostly elastic and synthetic materials whereas Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui use natural materials.
A Study on the Size Designation of Foundation Garments
Lee Jun-Ok ; Seong Hwa-Kyung ; Choi Hei-Sun ; Yi Kyong-Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 892~903
This study was to carry out interview and survey of currently marketed foundation garment, focusing on manufacturers, on the basis of data of Year 2004 SIZE KOREA in 2004, to re-establish suitable age range and standard size, to simplify size interval scale and size system and to revise the standard for consumers' easy understanding and availability; The findings of this study are as follows. 1. Considering the age, in which a bra is worn, has reduced socially, the applicable age range was expanded into
years old, which was divided into for junior and for adult. 2. For bra size, the standard title changed into the foundation garments size standard, in which girdle and bodysuit were included. 3. Basic physical parts for establishing for bra size are underbust and bust. Interval scale of under bust and bust was 5cm and 2.5cm, respectively. And basic physical parts are waist and hip girth for girdle, and underbust, bust, and hip girth for bodysuit. 4. For bra size, underbust girth was applied together with bra-cup size without 'cm' unit. For bra-cup size, difference between underbust and bust was represented as English alphabet. In other words, AAA means that difference between under bust and bust is 5cm. AA, A, B, C and D means that the difference are 7.5cm, 10cm, 12.5cm, 15cm and 17.5cm. 5. For girdle size, waist girth was applied together with hip girth without 'cm' unit. And for bodysuit size, underbust girth was applied together with cup size like bra size, and English alphabet represented hip girth range.
The Development of Casual Wear also Fit for In-line Skating
Kim Min-Ji ; Choi Hei-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 904~915
The purpose of this study is to develop and examine an in-line skating uniform that is also suitable for everyday wear, through research on the dressing needs of skaters. The results of this research are as follows: when asked about the garment, ordinary clothes were more inconvenient than professional uniform. In the case of the upper garment, the skaters who dressed in ordinary clothes felt the most inconvenience in the part of sleeve, back side of bottom and width. The skaters who dressed in professional in-line uniforms felt the most inconvenience in the part of neck girth, of sleeve, back side of bottom. In the case of the lower garment, the skaters who dressed in ordinary clothes felt the most inconvenience in the knee, crotch and hip. The skaters who dressed in professional in-line uniforms felt the most inconvenience in the hip and crotch. Damage due to wear was shown up the hip, knee, side of thigh and shoulder. The answer rate was high that the ordinary clothes usually wore out and the uniform used to tear out in the form of clothes damage. An appropriate sample pattern was made up, based on the problems revealed in the results of the questionnaire analysis. Evaluation of samples was used linear Measurement (5 point preference scale) by organized with 15 male and female's subjects group and 12 observer group.
Psychological and Behavioral Outcomes of Commitment to Apparel Brand Online Community
Hong Hee-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 916~927
The purpose of this study was to identify psychological and behavioral outcomes of commitment to apparel brand community by test structural equation model. Subjects of 317 members for 9 selected apparel communities responded the questionnaire in the home-page or in the attached file. The results were as follows: 1) The suggested structural equation mode was accepted by data from apparel brand communities with hish brand strength(
, d.f.=89, p=0.25, GFI=0.92, AGFI=0.88, RMR=0.05, NFI=0.94). However, this model wasn't accepted by data kom apparel brand communities with low brand strength. 2) Three types of commitment to brand community(emotional, continuous and normative commitments) influenced brand identification positively and brand identification positively influenced three types of behavioral outcomes(favorable word-of-mouth, co-production and repurchase of brand). Therefore, managements need to develop marketing programs to promote each type of commitment to their's own brand community.
Perception of Appearance and Style of Tween Generation
Kim Chan-Ju ; Kim Yong-Ju ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 928~938
Tween refers 'between' generation aged of 10-16 who are between child and high teens. Tweens have been regarded as one of the fast growing markets and they show some unique characteristics as next-generation consumers. This study has explored the perception of their appearances and clothing styles, style preferences, and influencing factors on clothing behavior of tweens. 120 students aged of 12-15 participated in depth interview and data were structured and categorized by applying domain analysis. Results showed tweens have great concerns on their appearances and styles, so they want to express their identities and aesthetic favors through clothing styles. As for clothing style preferences, they have multi-facet tastes such as casual, active, feminine/ masculine, sophisticated, dramatic, etc. Factors influencing on their clothing behavior include reference groups like friends, dual desires of conformity and individuality, fashion, and brand names.
A Study on the Vanity Scale -Correlation with Materialism and Fashion Orientation-
Jeon Kyung-Sook ; Park Hye-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 939~947
The purpose of this study was to identify the relationships between vanity and materialism and fashion orientation. This study identified underlying factors of vanity and then grouped respondents into clusters based on the low factors of vanity. This study also examined their materialism and fashion orientation according to clusters. Data were gathered by surveying university students living in Seoul metropolitan area using convenient sampling, and 313 questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. In analyzing data, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t test, correlation, and one-way ANOVA were conducted. Regarding vanity, low factors, 1) a concern id. physical appearance, 2) a positive view of physical appearance, 3) a concern for achievement, and 4) a positive view of achievement, were identified. Correlation analysis showed all four factors of vanity were significantly related with underlying dimension! of materialism and fashion orientation. Based on the factor scores, three clusters were identified. There were also significant differences in the dimensions of materialism and fashion orientation according to the clusters.
A Comparative Study on the Formative Pattern of Chogakpo and Tessellation
Lee Jnng-Su ; Song Myung-Kyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 948~960
Chogakpos are highly artistic works created by Korean women as a part of the Kyubang culture in the Chosun Dynasty from the late 19th century to the early 20th. Tessellation is a plaid pattern composed of squares that covers a surface or a space with figures completely without any gap or overlap. The present study purposed to make a comparative analysis of the formative pattern of Chogakp and tessellation in order to show the superiority of Korean Kyubang(the women's quarters called Kyubang in the Chosun Dynasty) culture. As for the research method, we analyzed relevant materials to examine the geometric characteristics and formative principles of tessellation. In addition, we analyzed the formative pattern of Chogakpo using Photographs. The scope of this study was limited to 148 old Chogakpos contained in Huh Dong-hwa's 'Yetpojagi'. According to the results of this research, similarities between Chogakpo and tessellation were as follows. First, in a regular polygon, the face was divided into regular triangles, squares and two or more regular polygons. Second, in a polygon, the face was divided into triangles and quadrangles. Third, the symmetry of tessellation was applied to Cintamani pattern Pojagi. Differences between Chogakpo and tessellation were as follows. First, different from Chogakpo, tessellation had various formative patterns utilizing different regular polygons including hexagons. Second, there was no overlapping repetition in tessellation. Third, there was no free pattern in tessellation.
An Exploratory Study of Consumer Return Experiences
Park Kyung-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 961~970
This study attempted to understand post-purchase consumer return experiences which had not received much attention in consumer behavior research. As a first step to understand return experiences from consumers' viewpoint, the study took an exploratory approach and identified themes and patterns from subjective consumer experiences. Whenever possible, attribution theory was applied to interpret the identified patterns. A total of 99 cases were collected from an open-ended questionnaire and analyzed based on a qualitative method. The reasons of product return was classified into five groups: changing mind; product defects; unsuitable products; products not expected; and for a better deal. External attribution was observed for return decisions caused by consumers' changed mind as well as by product defects. Dissatisfaction with defected products seemed to be intensified or reduced by service failure or success in the post-purchase service encounter. Consumer expectation and situations seemed to affect this process. Overall, the study supported attribution theory in the post-purchase return experience, and insights for research questions were proposed.
Favorable Colors on the Facial Color Types of Korean Adult Females
Kim Ku-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 971~980
The colors of apparel have a close relationship with the facial color types of consumers. To extract the favorable colors that flatter to consumer's facial color types, the facial colors of Korean females were analyzed. With color meter JX-777, 2 points of face were measured and classified into 3 clusters that had similar hue, value and chroma. Other new 10 college girls were measured and 3 subject among them were selected by the criteria that choose new subjects who have the classified facial color types. 175 respondents answered the degree of becomingness of color samples on three subjects. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan multiple range test using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1) 324 subjects who had YR facial colors were classified into 3 facial color groups. The average facial color Type 1 was 4.82YR 6.47/3.70 and composed 48.88% among total observations. Type 2 was 5.99YR 6.12/4.12 and 30.25%. Type 3 was 5.15YR 7.07/4.97 and 20.99% respectively. 2) Favorable colors for Type 1 were 18 colors that belonged to 'a' group from among colors that were divided into a, b, c group by Duncan post hoc test. 3) Type 2 showed that this type had many unfavorable colors. Unfavorable colors were 18 colors that belonged to 'c' by Duncan test. 4) Type 3 showed that black is the most favorable color and 18 colors were at middle level, which belonged to 'b' from among 18 colors that were divided into a, b, and c by Duncan test.
Evaluation of Physiological Responses and Comfort of Protective Clothing Using Charcoal Printing
Chung Myung-Hee ; Park Soon-Ja ; Shin Jung-Sook ; Koshiba Tomoko ; Tamura Teruko ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 981~991
The purpose of this study was to determine the practicability of an experimental protective clothing by identifying the human body's physiological responses to it as well as the human body's comfort level when wearing it, particularly with the use of a processed charcoal material. The experimental protective clothing came in two types: one whose outer side made use of polypropylene film, and the inner side, a non-woven rayon fabric; and one whose inner side made use of a non-woven fabric processed with charcoal with a 10% density. Experiments were conducted on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21. These experiments were conducted at a climatic chamber, in which the temperature and relative humidity were set below
, respectively, and were measured within a period of 60min, consisting of a 20-min rest period, a 20-min exercise period, and a 20-min recovery period. Based on the results of this study, the efficiency of the processed charcoal material was reviewed, and a database requiring the production of more functional and comfortable protective clothing materials was established.
Methodology Development of Clothing Appearance by Eye Movement Analysis
Park Hye-Jun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 30, issue 6, 2006, Pages 992~1000
The main purpose of this research is to develop the methodology of objective evaluation of clothing appearance by eye movement analysis. The visual clothing items used in this study were skirt, one-piece, pants and shirt with the style variation of silhouette and details. By observing eye movement during visual evaluation of clothing, we can achieve the basic fixation data of eye movement. Moreover, we developed the Matlab program to extract the fixation coordinate and number of eye fixation on each part of the clothing item. As results, there were differences in the duration of fixation time for each item and the fixation time was not different by styles within a clothing item. However, we could find differences in the fixation time within a style, in other words, we could select the important parts of the clothing by observing the fixation time in a certain clothing item. It is also noted that time required in visual information processing differs depending on the item, and there was a region which contain more information independent with styles in the same item. By developing the objective method of visual evaluation that correspond to human's visual information processing, the results are expected to be applied in the retrieval program in internet shopping mall or in the development of contents for advertisement of clothing.