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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 32, Issue 12 - Dec 2008
Volume 32, Issue 11 - Nov 2008
Volume 32, Issue 10 - Oct 2008
Volume 32, Issue 9 - Sep 2008
Volume 32, Issue 8 - Aug 2008
Volume 32, Issue 7 - Jul 2008
Volume 32, Issue 6 - Jun 2008
Volume 32, Issue 5 - May 2008
Volume 32, Issue 4 - Apr 2008
Volume 32, Issue 3 - Mar 2008
Volume 32, Issue 2 - Feb 2008
Volume 32, Issue 1 - Jan 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Mods-Look Expressed on the 21st Century Fashion
Chu, Mi-Kyung ; Kim, Soon-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 859~870
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.859
The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.
Exploratory Research on Internship Programs in Fashion-Related Areas -Focusing on Consciousness of Company Practitioners, Internship Participants, and Internship Applicants-
Yoh, Eun-Ah ; Lee, Ho-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 871~881
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.871
In this study, internships in fashion-related areas were explored based on survey data obtained from 64 companies running an internship program, 55 internship participants and 118 internship applicants. In results, both internship participants and company practitioners were fairly satisfied with internship programs. Also, the academia and the industry were well collaborating for an internship operation. Internship in the fashion industry is considered as an important way to build practical abilities for college students. Product development and design were job areas that interns often took charge of. Active and sincere personnel who have good interpersonal skills, creative abilities, communication skills, and foreign language skills are welcomed as a good candidate for an intern. Reflecting the results, implications for internship offering companies and internship participants were generated.
Fabric Dyeing with Lichen Parmotrema austrosinence and Improvement of Dyeability by Chitosan Treatment
Yoo, Hye-Ja ; Lee, Hye-Ja ; Rhie, Jeon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 882~889
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.882
Three fabrics, 100% silk, nylon and cotton each, were dyed with a lichen dye solution prepared by a fermentation method under conditions of varying dyebath pH and temperature. To verify the effect of chitosan on fabric dyeing, the 100% cotton fabric was treated with a chitosan solution before dyeing. The K/S, CIE
and Munsell values of the dyed samples were measured. Colorfastness of each sample was also investigated. The maximum K/S value was measured at 520nm wavelength for the dyed silk fabric and at 480nm for the dyed cotton and nylon. The K/S values for the dyed silk fabric were much greater than those of the other fabrics. The dyed silk fabric showed a red tone on the Munsell color system, and the dyed nylon and cotton fabrics a yellowish red tone. Dye affinity to fabrics was better in a neutral or acidic dyebath. As dyeing temperature increased, K/S values increased for the dyed nylon and cotton fabrics but not for the silk. Dyeability of cotton fabrics could improve by Chitosan treatment. As for most natural dyes, colorfastness of all dyed samples was poor. The silk fabric showed an excellent dry cleaning fastness of Grade 5.
Online Purchase Intentions for Product Categories -The Functions of Internet Motivations and Online Buying Tendencies-
Kim, Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 890~901
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.890
This study explores an initial framework for online product categorization by examining the relationships among Internet motivations, buying tendencies, and online purchase intentions for product categories. A total of 217 usable questionnaires were obtained from respondents in a southwestern state in the United States. A path model using a correlation matrix with maximum likelihood was estimated using LISREL 8.53. Findings indicated that Internet motivations consisted of four factors: Diversion, Economic, Information, and Social motivations. In addition, online products were classified into three categories based on purchase intentions: Sensory, Cognitive, and Search products. Estimated path model showed that diversion and economic motivations affected impulse buying tendency, whereas economic, information and social motivations influenced planned buying tendency in the online context. Also, the buying tendencies were significantly related to online purchase intentions for the product categories. Purchase intentions for sensory products were more strongly affected by impulse buying tendency, whereas purchase intentions for cognitive and search products were more strongly affected by planned buying tendency. Theoretical and managerial implications were discussed for devising an appropriate e-market strategy for specific product categories.
Critical Discussion on the 'Orientalism' in Fashion Culture
Seo, Bong-Ha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 902~910
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.902
A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.
Effects of Triton X-100 and Calcium Chloride on the Porcine Pancreas Lipase Treatment of PET Fabrics
Kim, Hye-Rim ; Song, Wha-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 911~917
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.911
In this study, we reported the effect of porcine pancreas lipase treatment in the presence of a calcium chloride and Triton X-100 on moisture regain and wettability of PET fabrics. The moisture regain of PET fabrics in the presence of 0.5% surfactant showed a 1.5-fold decrease, compared to the absence of it. Triton X-100 acted as an inhibitor to porcine pancreas lipase hydrolytic activity. The moisture regain and wettability of porcine pancreas lipase treated PET fabrics improved when more than 10mM of calcium chloride was added to the treatment solution. Porcine pancreas lipase treatment caused voids and cracks on PET fabrics.
The Analysis of Sub-Factors of Modesty-Immodesty Concepts in US and South Korean College Women
Kim, Yang-Jin ; Michelman, Susan ; Seock, Yoo-Kyoung ; Lee, Soo-Kyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 918~927
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.918
The purpose of this research was to identify the dimensions of modesty and immodesty in dress and to examine the differences in female college students' perceptions, in various cultures, of modest and immodest clothes. The researchers selected South Korea and the United States for the cross-cultural comparison study because these two countries show distinctive cultural characteristics. This study was conducted through both qualitative and quantitative methods. According to the result of the preliminary study, 47 questions were developed. The 4 Likert type scales used in the questionnaire were written in both English and Korean. Pretests were performed simultaneously in both countries. 174 American and 208 Korean students completed the questionnaire. The data were analyzed using SPSS. According to the results of factor analysis, there were 4 factors identified for the modesty-immodesty concept, including 'Conservativeness', 'Body exposure', 'Social appropriateness', and 'Attracting attention from others'. Students answered that they liked to wear conservative and socially appropriate dress in both cultures and that they did not like to wear clothing which draws a great deal of attention to them. Cultural differences were also identified. Based on the results, American students dressed more conservatively than Korean students, while Korean students preferred to wear revealing dress. American students were more conservative and preferred modest clothing. Also Korean students were more open about their body exposure and had immodest clothing attitudes.
Dyeing Properties and Color of Silk Fabrics Dyed with Safflower Yellow Dye
Shin, Youn-Sook ; Son, Kyung-Hee ; Yoo, Dong-Il ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 928~934
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.928
The objective of this study is to investigate the dyeing properties of safflower yellow dye on silk for the standardization of dyeing process and color reproducibility. Yellow colorants were water-extracted from safflower petals, concentrated, and freeze-dried to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and pH of dye bath were studied in terms of dye uptake and shade. Fastness to dry cleaning and light was evaluated. Dye uptake increased with raising temperature and brighter and more vivid yellow shade was obtained when dyed at
. As colorants concentration increased, dye uptake increased progressively and the shade got darker and deeper. Maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.5. It was speculated that the adsorption of colorants seemed to occur mainly by hydrogen bonding and physical force at pH 5.5 and by ionic bonding as well as hydrogen bonding below isoelectric point(pH 3.8-4.0). The results of reproducibility test showed acceptable color difference in the range of
. Washing fastness was fairly good as 4/5 rating, while light fastness was 2/3 rating.
A Study on the Mechanism of Religious Symbol, Manifested in Costume -Focusing on the Rites of High Religion-
Seo, Bong-Ha ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 935~946
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.935
Religion is the symbolic form and action, linking the ultimate condition of life with human beings. Religious idea grasps the world through symbols and gives birth to the action through symbols. This research put its purpose in elucidating the effect of religion on the costume and its mechanism. It's focus is centered on Buddhism, Hinduism, and Islam which are among the world high religions. Part of this research also examines the mechanism in which several composing factors are expressed with rituals and manifested with costumes, this process was diagrammatized and suggested. The composing factors of religion such as belief system, experiences, community, and rituals are closely related. Ritual especially, is the symbolic action, practice, and the way of rescue, expressing religious meaning. Religious rituals such as imitative rituals, positive or negative rituals, sacrificial ritual, and rites of passage have been expressed with religious music or figurative art such as costume, construction, and art as well as religious ritual like ancestral rites. Religion has had a great effect on the overall culture including costume as a belief system by lightening the meaning of life and suggesting the solutions to the human problems such as anxiety or conflict.
The Color Fading and Staining of Fabrics by Drum-type Washer
Ryu, Hyo-Seon ; Kim, Eun-Ah ; Yun, Chang-Sang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 947~958
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.947
To study the effect of a washing machine with silver nano technology on its detergency, the discoloring of the dyed clothes and the staining of standards adjacent fabrics were examined. As the laundry specimen, cotton fabric dyed with reactive dyes and Polyester fabric dyed with disperse dyes were chosen; and as the adjacent fabrics, undyed cotton. polyester and nylon fabrics were chosen. The colorfastness was evaluated after washing under conditions that those washing temperature, liquor ratio, detergency concentration and the type of water were varied. When the clothes were washed with the tap water contains silver ion, the deposition of silver compounds into the washed clothes was measured. As a results, after the washing in the various conditions, discoloring of the dyed clothes was not intense. The higher the washing temperature and the lower the liquor ratio, the larger the staining appeared on the white fabrics; especially for the white nylon fabrics. The concentration of detergent and the type of water affected hardly the colorfastness. After the repeated washing with the water contains silver, whiteness of the cotton and the nylon fabrics were lower than the result after the washing with the tap water, and a quantity of silver ions was found on the washed clothes.
Comparison of 3D Scanned Anthropometric Data between Korean and American Adults by using Ratios and Indices
Yi, Kyong-Hwa ; Istook, Cynthia ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 959~967
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.959
The body measurement ratios and indices used in this study are all 3D female measurement data of the two countries were obtained from Size Korea Project and SizeUSA Project. The purpose of the study is to compare and analyze body measurement data between two countries. The results of this research are helpful for the clothing manufacturer and company to trade with America. The samples were 1,988 Korean and 6,306 American females. Thirty-five body measurement ratios and indices were chosen as the principal measurements in making garments. The conclusion of this research was as follow; First, U.S. females have measurements that exceed Korean women, except for crotch length total and shoulder slope. Second, the correlation coefficients of height and weight are relatively higher than other measurements in the two countries' body measurements. Finally, American women's height ratios are significantly bigger than Korean women's in most height ratios. On the other hand, Korean are significantly bigger than American in weight ratios. The drop values of Korean females are also smaller than those of American. It was recognized that American women are much bigger, wider and more obese than Korean according to the results by utilizing the girth ratios. BMI, Rohrer and Vervaeck index.
Business Strategies of Successful Rural Retailers in Competition with Large Discount Retailers in the U.S.
Lee, Sea-Hee ; Kim, Johnson K.P. ; Gahring, Sherri ; Lee, Seung-Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 968~979
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.968
Since community growth and vitality frequently depend on local businesses and community inhabitants depend on local retailers for their daily necessities, studying small businesses in rural areas is important to community sustainability. The purpose of our research was to investigate what marketing, merchandising, customer service, or business operation strategies were being implemented by successful independent rural retailers(i.e., clothing, jewelry, floral, hardware etc.), in competition with large discount stores in the U.S.. In addition, social capital as indicated by community involvement was examined for its use as a business strategy that contributes to the success of small retailers. In-depth interviews were conducted with 27 rural retailers representing three communities within a Midwestern state. Data were content analyzed. Participants were following several of the recommended business strategies but opportunities existed to implement changes. Results are discussed in terms of key practices followed by these successful small business owners.
Effects of Consumer Tendencies and Positive Emotion on Impulse Buying Behavior for Apparel
Park, Eun-Joo ; Kim, Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 980~990
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.980
This study tested how impulse buying behavior for apparel was related to hedonic consumption and impulse buying tendencies and emotion in the context of shopping. A total of 290 self-administered questionnaires were obtained from college students during scheduled classes. A structural equation model using a correlation matrix with maximum likelihood was estimated for examining the relationships among consumer tendencies of hedonic consumption and impulse buying, positive emotion, and impulse buying behaviors by LISREL 8.53. Findings showed that impulse buying behaviors for apparel could be classified into planned, reminded, and fashion-oriented impulse buying typologies. Hedonic consumption and impulse buying tendencies had significant effects on positive emotion. Positive emotion had a significant effect on planned, reminded, and fashion-oriented impulse buying for apparel. This study suggests that positive emotion plays an important role in determining impulse buying behaviors relevant to hedonic and impulse buying tendencies. Managerial implications for apparel retailers are discussed.
Thermal Characteristics of the Garment Air-layers by PCM Concentration Changes
Yoo, Hwa-Sook ; Lim, Ji-Hye ; Kim, Eun-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 991~998
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.991
This study is to determine the effects of PCM concentration on the temperature changes of the air layers of a garment when the environmental temperature changes. The selected PCM was Nonadecane and coated on cotton fabrics with PCM concentrations 10%, 20%, and 30%. The temperature changes of the air layers between fabrics were measured by Human-Clothing-Environment Simulator which measure a dynamic heat transfer. After stabilizing at
for 1 hour, the multi layered garment system were exposed to
for 30 minutes and then, exposed to
for 30minutes. The results like following could be obtained. When the environmental temperature changed high to low, temperature of the air layer increased by heating effect of PCM. In the contrast, when the environmental temperature changed low to high, the temperature increase of the air layer was delayed because of cooling effect by PCM. Also, the more concentration of PCM, the bigger the heating effect. Cooling effect showed more clearly at PCM concentration 20%. The temperature differences of the air layers between with PCM fabrics and with non-PCM fabrics were bigger at
. Consequently, though PCM has influenced on the temperature of the air layer by heating and cooling effect, those effects haven't shown in all layers equally. It was shown that the effect of PCM varied according to the layer in the case of multi layered garment system and heat gain as well as heat loss in the outermost layer had to be taken into account.
A Study on Block Patterns for of Korean fashion Models
Park, Sang-Hee ; Kang, Kyoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 32, issue 6, 2008, Pages 999~1011
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.6.999
To most of the students studying fashion related major, the graduation fashion show is a big challenge. They have to put together all they learn and show what they can do to their future employers. They design, pattern work, and make up garments for the show all by themselves. Unfortunately. while they make up their garments, they usually don't Dow exactly body measurements of the models. So quite often they have to alter their art works up to the last minute of the fashion show opening. Sometimes such unadequate work process ruins their work. The purpose of this study is to suggest block patterns of Korean fashion models measurements for basic items, such as jacket and pants for male models and torso length block pattern, skirt and pants for female models. 20 male and 20 female professional models were measured. The block patterns were based on their measurements. After the first fitting test, patterns were corrected by their body characteristic. For both male and female models, it was found desirable to fix the shoulder width and make an adjustment to the patterns with a deviation of width and girth items. In case of the resultant patterns the satisfaction was made better. Model sizes proposed in this study are considered closer to the size of average models, since they were based on A-grade models who are currently working in Korea. The resultant patterns can be produced by simply making a slight adjustment to the width of the proposed pattern in this study.