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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 33, Issue 12 - Dec 2009
Volume 33, Issue 11 - Nov 2009
Volume 33, Issue 10 - Oct 2009
Volume 33, Issue 9 - Sep 2009
Volume 33, Issue 8 - Aug 2009
Volume 33, Issue 7 - Jul 2009
Volume 33, Issue 6 - Jun 2009
Volume 33, Issue 5 - May 2009
Volume 33, Issue 4 - Apr 2009
Volume 33, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 33, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 33, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Image Perception of Men's Casual Wear Using Photograph and Computer Simulation Picture
Kang, Seung-Hee ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 1~10
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.001
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the types and the colors of men's casual wear, hairstyles, and the methods of stimulus manufacture on men's image perception. The subjects were 360 women from the metropolitan area of Seoul. The clothing types used for the study were a sweater and a jumper(casual jacket) with jean pants. The clothing colors were beige, indigo, and red. Two hairstyles, the short and the medium length hairs, were compared. Two types of stimuli, the photograph and the computer simulation picture, were used. The results of the factor analysis disclosed five dimensions on men's image: neatness, individuality, ability, activity, and sociability. In general, the photograph stimuli were evaluated more positively in activity, individuality, and sociability than the picture stimuli. The sweaters were perceived higher in ability, activity, and sociability than the jumpers. The Indigo color was evaluated as neat. The medium length hairstyles were perceived as neat and the short hairstyles were perceived as sociable. The jumpers were evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige and indigo colors were evaluated to be neater in the picture stimuli than in the photograph. When using the picture stimuli, the men's image wearing the sweaters with the medium length hairstyles were evaluated lower in individuality. When using the photograph stimuli, the men's image wearing the sweater with the short hairstyles were evaluated higher in activity. Men's image wearing the indigo jumper and the beige sweater with medium length hairs were evaluated as high in neatness.
A Development of a Casual Pants Block Pattern for 7 Years Old Boy
Lee, Eun-Hye ; Jung, Jin-A ; Jo, Jin-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 11~21
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.011
It is remarkable that the children's wear market has been growing instead of declining birth rate. The parents are willing to pay more when they find children's wear of better design and improved quality. For better quality, it is necessary to research on the pattern making of children's wear. After the interview with the 10 leading children's brands, we found that they develop individual design pattern based on each items middle block pattern which characterize the brands design line. Most frequently used middle block is for casual pants. Through interview with pattern designers, comparative study of patterns drafting methods, wearing test of trial garments and altering and adjustment of patterns, we developed the casual pants block pattern for 7 years old boys.
Global Marketing Strategies for Korean Fashion Brands -Focused on Companies Entered the US Market-
Shin, Su-Yun ; Cho, Jeong-A ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 22~32
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.022
The purpose of this study was to suggest the appropriate marketing strategies for Korean fashion companies wishing to enter the US market. In-depth-interview with documentary research were performed to investigate the seven Korean fashion companies launching in the US market as wholesalers or retailers. The interviews were executed from May to July 2007. The results of the study were summarized in accordance with Marketing Mix(4P's). In most cases, the brand targets are female customers of 20's to early 30's. The products carried by the companies are trendy with a tint of vintage and oriental feelings. The price ranges from middle to high level. Most brands are engaged in wholesaling through trade shows to sell the merchandise for department stores or specialty stores, but recently are trying to convert to retailing. Trade shows and show rooms are used as one of the promotion tools, but celebrity marketing has also been active for the promotions. Most companies suggested their superior qualities of the products as their strength, and the lack of experience and information as their weakness. Most companies forecast that the influence of FTA between Korea and the US may be limited because of Korea companies' overseas outsourcing system.
The Influence of Salespersons Attributes on Relationship Commitment between College Students and Salespersons and Their Performance
Hong, Kyung-Hee ; Lee, Yoon-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 33~44
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.033
This study is a survey of college students who have been exposed to a variety of clothing consumption environments such as online transactions through the Internet, with the purpose of examining the influence of salespersons attributes on college students' relationship commitment and perception of salespersons performance. The study conducted a questionnaire survey on 464 male and female students and used SPSS 12.0 for statistical data analyses such as mean, standard deviation, frequency analysis, reliability analysis, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: First, salespersons attributes such as appearance, expertise, customer orientation, and customer management fumed out as the factors that influence the satisfaction under relationship commitment at statistically significant levels. Likeability, customer orientation, and customer management were found to have statistically significant influence on perceived reliability of salespersons. Second, with respect to the influence of relationship commitment on customer performance, statistically significant factors included satisfaction and reliability. Customer orientation is considered most important by both male and female students among the salespersons attributes, followed in order by expertise, customer management, appearance, ethic and similarity. Likeability was found to be the least important attribute.
The Costume and the thought to Costume of the Ambassador Extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors(朝士視察團) Detached to Japan before the Reform of Dress Regulation in 1884(甲申衣制改革)
Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 45~54
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.045
The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.
Well-being Lifestyle Measurement Development
Hong, Hee-Sook ; Koh, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 55~67
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.055
The purpose of this study is to develop well-being lifestyle measurement. Data were collected from a total of 251 Korean females ranging from 20 to 50 years old. The measurement items were developed by focus group interview to well-being consumers. Through a series of exploratory factor analysis and confirmatory factor analysis, the 7 sub-factors and 14 items that construct final measurement model of well-being lifestyle were identified: Health oriented eating habits, social welfare oriented consumption, interest in health policy, self-esteem enhancement, sports activity, volunteer for local community, use of cosmetics made of natural components. Fitness of measurement model and reliability and discriminant validity of measurement variables were accepted as a good level.
Segmentation Using Curvature Information of 3D Body Surface for Tight-fit Pattern Making
Park, Hye-Jun ; Hong, Kyung-Hi ; Cho, Young-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 68~79
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.068
It is inevitable to have cutting line to get the 2D pattern from 3D body surface. In this paper the efficiency of curvature plot as a cutting line in the process of flattening 3D surface was investigated. As reference, basic clothing construction line was adopted to divide the 3D surface into small blocks to make the flattening process easy. Female dummy as well as human body were scanned and surface of the upper body was segmented using curvature plot and basic constructing line. 2D tight-fit pattern was developed using three software, the RapidForm 2004, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD. Gap between clothes and body, and the clothing pressure on the body was observed to determine the fit of the clothes. As results, clothes constructed with blocks divided by curvature plot displayed a similar level of tight fit as compared with those by basic construction line. It was found that curvature plot is effective method as a segmentation of the 3D surface even for the actual body which does not have any previous reference line. It is expected that application of curvature plot will be expanded in 3D apparel technology.
The Development of Commercialization in the Idea of the Fashion Design, Issey Miyake
Cho, Jung-Mee ; Huh, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 80~91
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.080
The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.
The Difference of Clothing Shopping Orientation in Internet and Offline Stores
Kim, Sae-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 92~103
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.092
The study is interested in the consumer's mixed choice of the internet and the offline stores. Therefore the purpose of study is to investigate if the clothing shopping orientation of consumers varies when they shop internet and offline, instead of classifying consumers into internet shoppers and offline shoppers. For the purpose, quantitative survey was carried out using 201 questionnaires from men and women in their twenties. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, Pearson's correlation analysis, Spearman's rank order correlation coefficient, t-test, and frequency analysis. The results are as following. First, the clothing shopping orientation structures of offline and internet stores were different each other. As the result of factor analysis, positive, brand oriented, economic, convenient conformity, convenient impulsive factors were extracted from offline store and rational, enjoying, goal oriented, conformity, brand oriented, convenient impulsive purchase factors were extracted from internet store respectively. Second, as the results of investigating the relationship between the clothing shopping orientation structures of offline and internet stores, positive(off)-enjoying(on), brand oriented(off)-brand oriented(on), convenient conformity(off)-conformity(on) had strong correlation s and the rest were peculiar to the each store type. Specifically, the goal oriented factor peculiar to the internet store was noticeable. Third, as the results of investigating the differences between clothing shopping orientation of offline and internet stores, the ranks of strong orientation dimension were different between two channels. As well, the mean differences were significant in goal oriented, conformity, brand oriented, and convenient impulsive purchase dimensions. This study has the significance that it investigated the variance of clothing shopping orientation according to the mixed selection trend of internet/offline.
Visual Merchandising Management of Shop Masters in Fashion Brands
Lee, Jung-Eun ; Jun, Bo-Mi-Na ; Park, Kyung-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 104~114
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.104
The purposes of this study were to examine: 1) supporting activities of fashion brands for store-level visual merchandising(VM); 2) shop masters' attitude to VM supporting activities; 3) the differences in the perceived importance of VM, attitude to VM supporting activities, and shop masters' VM management by shop master characteristics; and 4) the influencing factors on shop masters' VM management. A total of 203 questionnaires collected from shop masters working for women's wear fashion brands were analyzed. Results revealed that VM manual was used most often as a VM supporting activity, and casual brands offered VM training and professional VM help more often than designer brands did. Shop masters' attitude toward necessity, participation and usefulness to VM supporting activities were related to each other as well as to the perceived importance of VM. There were differences in the perceived importance of VM and attitude to VM supporting activities by age and sales career and in the VM management by income. Brand knowledge, the perceived importance of VM, and participation to VM supporting activities affected VM management of shop masters.
Iconological Analysis on Woman and Clothes of Richard Avedon's and Cindy Sherman's Photography
Yun, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 115~126
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.115
This study is about the iconological analysis on woman and clothes of Richard Avedon's and Cindy Sherman's constructed photographies which have questioned about life and existence of woman and present new visions about woman in comtemporary society and culture. The woman in R. Avedon's disguises herself with clothes, while the woman in C. Sherman's changes herself depending on the circumstances. R. Avedon reveals the inside of woman and ego with his gaze. The woman in his photography is reborn as another-self and communicates with the viewer through her eyes. C. Sherman has cast doubts with a woman's point of view in the way of making herself as an object in her works. C. Sherman has presented a new way of thinking about woman's body and ego. The viewer gives feminity and identity to the woman in C. Sherman's photography who has kept asking a question about woman-herself. The identity of woman in the photography has been changed depending on what she is wearing, what she is doing and where she is. Like this, the clothes which she puts on becomes another-self and also expresses life and dignity of the woman.
Analysis on Symbolic Meaning and Kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's Art Works
Yun, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 127~138
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.127
This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.
Fit Analysis for Men's Bodice Pattern Using 3D Scans -Compared to Traditional Fit Evaluation-
Paek, Kyung-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 139~148
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.139
In this study, we tried to verify the effectiveness of 3D scans of clothed participants from 20 to 24 year old men in fit analysis process. Carrying out fit analysis, we used 3D scan data and direct fit evaluation with the basic garments made as semi-fitted bodice pattern for men. The result of fit evaluation through 3D scan data showed the expert rated fitting items more positive than direct fit evaluation. Even though, generally there was a no significant difference in the response between 3D and direct fit analysis. Only there was a significant difference in the response to the specific place such as the center front line, neckline, shoulder seam, and etc. There was a no significant difference between the result of 3D scan and direct fit evaluation in the subjects' group. Also the result of assessment of 3D targeting consumers showed very positive and interested in using 3D scans for fit analysis. The ability to rotate the 3D scans for a variety of views proved to be a very effective process to analyze fit. Moreover, digital data is easily accessed at any locations and any time. Fit analysis using 3D scans could be great tool for not only fit evaluation in research but also better fitting in apparel industry.
Physical Performance of Metallic Jacquard Fabrics
Kang, Duck-Hee ; Lee, Jung-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 149~159
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.149
The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.
Classic Image Classification by Clothing Design Elements
Lee, Kyung-Lim ; Park, Sook-Hyun ; Kwon, Mi-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 1, 2009, Pages 160~171
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.160
The purpose of this study was to classify the classic image by clothing design elements. This research was done by survey method with 20 kinds of classic image photos selected in fashion magazines. The data was analyzed by Reliability Analysis, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's test and MDS. The results of this study are as follows: 1. Classic image was classified by 4 factors. Those were retro-classic, mannish-classic, elegant-classic and contemporary-classic images. 2. Retro-classic image was well-expressed by A silhouette and chromatic and chromatic color coordinations. Mannish-classic image was well-expressed by H silhouette, chromatic and achromatic color coordinations and hard texture. Elegant-classic image was well-expressed by fitted silhouette and chromatic and chromatic color coordinations. Contemporary-classic image was well-expressed by achromatic and achromatic color coordinations and hard texture. 3. Classic image was positioned into mostly retro and masculine on image scale.