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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Chung Hee Park
Volume & Issues
Volume 33, Issue 12 - Dec 2009
Volume 33, Issue 11 - Nov 2009
Volume 33, Issue 10 - Oct 2009
Volume 33, Issue 9 - Sep 2009
Volume 33, Issue 8 - Aug 2009
Volume 33, Issue 7 - Jul 2009
Volume 33, Issue 6 - Jun 2009
Volume 33, Issue 5 - May 2009
Volume 33, Issue 4 - Apr 2009
Volume 33, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 33, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 33, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
The Relationship between Weight of Single Garments and Thermal Insulation with a Thermal Manikin
Choi, Jeong-Wha ; Lee, Hyo-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 173~186
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.173
The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between the weight of seasonal garments worn by Korean women in their daily lives and thermal insulation. We selected a total of 121 garments(13 kinds of Under garments, 51 Upper garments, 32 Lower garments, 15 Headgear, 10 Gloves Footgear) based on our previous survey using questionnaire and interview. Thermal insulation of single garment was measured with a thermal manikin. Also we measured garment weight, covering area, thickness, air permeability on the each garment(chamber air temperature:
air speed: 0.15m/s). The results are as follow: The very strong positive correlation(r
Development of the Blouse Block Pattern for 7 Years Old Girls
Song, Yun-Hwa ; Jo, Jin-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 187~199
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.187
Recently, the quality and design of the children`s wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children`s wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.
A Comparative Study on the Representation and Becoming Phenomenon Expressed in Contemporary Fashion -Focusing on the Theory of Mimesis and Deleuze`s Becoming-
Yang, Hee-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 200~212
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.200
Since the late of 20C, contemporary fashion have becoming enlargement between role and function of fashion through the combination and the deconstruction among various different spheres. Because multi-functional and trans-formal fashion transforms and extends original space and role toward any other fields through the morphologic and structural combination, this has been freed form the representational function pursuing more simple morphologic imitation, and becomes to change the space that is able to `becoming` of Jill Deleuze. This paper intends to make a comparative study between the representation phenomenon about simple morphologic imitation of existing fashion design, and the becoming phenomenon of fashion focused on the change toward any other different object. This studies` conclusion as follows. 1) First representation imitates a lot of nature forms that are able to be restored any fixed form and picture. 2) Second representation is the representation of representation that re-imitates imitated object and art work. 3) Ontalogical becoming is classified with depaysement, self-presentation of fashion, morphing, and becoming the nature as a element.
Dyeing Properties and Scouring of Wool/Polyester Blend Fabrics Using Papain from Carica Papaya
Song, Hyun-Joo ; Kim, Hye-Rim ; Song, Wha-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 213~221
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.213
This study provides the optimum papain treatment method and its effect on wool/polyester blend fabrics. The enzymatic treatment condition is optimized depending on its pH level, temperature, concentration of enzyme, treatment time and concentration of activators. The characteristics of samples treated with the papain are measured using weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, WCA, dyeing property and surface micrographs. The results are described as follows: According to measuring weight loss, tensile strength and whiteness, a pH level of 7.5,
, 10% papain(o.w.f.) and 60minutes of treatment time are optimized for papain treatment. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are able to activate the papain. The optimum concentrations of them are 10mM and 50mM respectively. The WCA of fabrics is decreased since papain treatment makes wool/polyester blend fabrics more hydrophilic. Scouring with papain treatment improves whiteness and dyeing property of fabrics. The dyeing property of papain-treated fabrics is enhanced simply by a single step dyeing process using a basic dye. The surface of wool treated with papain in the presence of L-cysteine shows to be descaled. The surface of wool fibers in the presence of sodium sulfite, however, shows it is hydrolyzed evenly instead of being descaled. The surface of papain treated polyester fibers shows cracks and voids.
Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics with Rumex crispus L. Root
Han, Mi-Ran ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 222~229
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.222
The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The maximum V-visible spectrum possessed absorption band of Rumex crispus L. extract appeared at 274nm and 336nm. The amount of dyes extracted was increased with extracting concentration, temperature and time. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing concentration and repeat-numbers. The K/S value increased with increasing dyeing temperature and time, the exhaustion was saturated in
, respectively. Surface colors of fabrics dyed with pH 3, 7, 11 extract were RP-R-YR-Y range. The light fastness and washing fastness showed good results in Fe-mordanted. The dry leaning fastness appeared more than 4 grade. Rubbing fastness was better in dry methods han that in wet methods. In the result of antibacterial activity, the decrease rate was 9.9% to Staphylococcus aureus with the dyed fabric of cotton.
A Study on the Distribution of the Elementary Girls` Size Dimensions according to Ages and Body Shapes
Kang, Yeo-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 230~243
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.230
The purpose of this study was to analyse the body sizes of
years elementary school girls and also to categorize KS size dimensions by the detailed information of ages and body shapes. For the study, the data of SizeKorea(2004) was analysed. Height, bust, waist, hip, the ratio of waist to height and hip to height were significant between age groups, but the ratio of bust to height was not. Therefore, the increase of bust size was resulted in growth of bust circumference, instead of bust volume. In the same height group, over 11 year girls had smaller waist, while over 12 year girls had bigger hip. For Grouping girls by ages and body shapes, the ages were divided into 2 groups, under 10 years old and 11 to 12 years old. The body shapes classified into 3 groups `Stout-shape`, `Middle-shape`, and `slim-shape`, by the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. `Stout-shape` was significantly big at the almost sizes, but `Middle-shape` was significantly big at only circumferences, not lengths. In addition, drop(the difference between bust and hip) and lower-drop(the difference between waist and hip) were in inverse proportion to the ratios of bust to height and hip to height. It meant the increases of bust-ratio and hip-ratio of `Stout-shape` were resulted in overweight, rather than female matureness. The distribution of sizes over 0.5% were grouped for grading system and the subtotal percentiles of each group were calculated for industrial data. The groups which covered more than 10% of consumers were 2 to 6 and the 1 or 2 groups for `Stout-shape` were also observed, so that children`s ready-to wear companies could use them efficiently for their own consumer target.
Characteristics of Apparel Manufacturers and Distributors and the Effects of Private Guanxi on Organizational Relationship Type in China
Moon, Young-Ok ; Park, Na-Ri ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 244~255
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.244
The purpose of this study was 1) to inquire into characteristics of apparel manufacturers and distributors in China, 2) to classify private Guanxi and organizational relationship type, 3) to find differences in private Guanxi to enterprise type and the class of participations` position, and 4) to also find effects of private Guanxi on organizational relationship. Apparel manufacturers and distributors in China participated in the study. Random sampling method was used to collect the data. Data from 173 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. Descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach`s alpha coefficient, t-test, and regression analysis were conducted. Two factors of private Guanxi were classified(i.e., affective Guanxi, instrumental Guanxi). Three factors of organizational relationship type were identified(i.e., opportunistic relationship, cooperative relationship, vertical relationship). The results indicated that distributors regarded affective Guanxi as important more than manufactures and employees regarded affective Guanxi and instrumental Guanxi as important more than presidents. Distributors regarded cooperative relationship as important more than manufactures. Employees regarded organizational relationship as important more than presidents. Affective Guanxi positively affected on cooperative relationship and vertical relationship but negatively affected on opportunistic relationship. Instrumental Guanxi positively affected on opportunistic relationship and vertical relationship. The result of this study may give valuable information to retail merchandisers and strategists who participated in fashion business in China.
The Effect of Gallnut Mordanting on Gromwell Dyed Silk Fabric
Park, Ah-Young ; Kim, In-Young ; Song, Wha-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 256~265
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.256
The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows.
of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum
. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum
grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.
Relationship between Hip Shape and Pattern Using 3D Body Model
Cho, Young-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 266~275
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.266
Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today`s apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value(
). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.
Analysis of Preference to Men`s Apparel Design by Gender toward Consumers Aged 20-49
Kim, Chil-Soon ; Lee, Shin-A ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 276~287
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.276
Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group;
aged group and
aged group toward men`s apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men`s wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men`s jacket style. Specially
aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but
aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in
age group prefer high waist of pants, while
age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.
Cosmetic Customers` Complaint Behaviors -Focused on the Changes of Complaint Behaviors before and after the Complaint Management Experiences-
Lee, Soo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 288~298
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.288
This article deals with the customers` complaint behaviors and complaint management for cosmetic customers. The general aim is to analyze the changes of complaint behavioral responses before and after the complaint management experiences, describing customers` response patterns in terms of how they are influenced by the service justice and satisfaction of complaint management. The most relevant contributions from the related theoretical work indicate that the better the customer complaints are managed, the higher the level of possibility for customers to complaint, especially for public and direct responses(complaint behaviors). The only exception, although the statistical significant support was not found, is the private response, as the chance gets lower than before experiencing the complaint management.
Sensibility Evaluation of Metallic Jacquard Fabrics
Kang, Duck-Hee ; Lee, Jung-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 299~307
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.299
The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women`s suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.
A Study on the Working Clothes for Korea Railroad -Focused on Winter Upper Garment-
Kim, Ji-Won ; Choi, Hei-Sun ; Ryou, Heun-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 308~318
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.308
The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, the sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort of workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also the reflective strips were added to chest and back of the upper garment in order to increase visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern underarm of the sleeve and side panel of the bodice were put in together and action pleats at the back were inserted in order to decrease the pullback of the armpit and scapular area and increase mobility of the arm movement. Also the patterns of the elbows areas were modified to increase mobility of joint. The prototype was evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to the existing working uniform. Assessment group was consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups and evaluated external appearance and adaptability to the movements. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability except height of collar. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype was improved in terms of adaptability and comfort.
The Contents of Clothing & Textiles Education before the 1st Curriculum (Part I) -Elementary Home Economics Textbook-
Yoo, Hye-Ja ; Lee, Young-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 319~330
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.319
The contents of clothing and textiles area of elementary home economics textbooks from 1948 to 1955 were investigated. Home economics of elementary school education in those days corresponds to practice acts of elementary school education in present. Practical acts has the all-around concepts of the agriculture, industry and home economics Also the knowledge or skill for actual life are teamed. Practical acts education was started from lessons of sewing for women under title of `jaebong`. It can be said that practical acts education was started from clothing and textiles area. The home economics elementary textbooks of the year 1948 were composed of 21 units for 5th grade and 22 units for 6th grade. The textbook for 5th grade of 1953 was composed of 19 units, and one for 6th grade of 1955 was composed of 18 units. The clothing and textiles area accounts for 38.6% in 5th grade textbook, for 32% in 6th grade textbook of 1948 and for 31% in 5th grade of 1953 and 6th grade textbooks of 1955. The textbook contents of clothing and textiles area were classified into five fields of sewing, knitting. patching, embroidering and care. In 1948, textbooks were placed a great deal of weight on sewing field education as 7 units of 15 units. The 7 units for sewing fields have suitable connection to develop. But, in the case of knitting, patching or care, just groundwork of each field was included for application to actual life without vertical connection. The contents of textbooks for clothing and textiles area in 1953 and 1955 were much alike with those in 1948.
A Study on Loyalty Program for Building Customer Loyalty of Fashion Firm
Ju, Seong-Rae ; Yoo, Myung-Iee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 2, 2009, Pages 331~342
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.2.331
The purposes of this study were to provide the apparel companies with a effective marketing strategy by identifying the present condition of loyalty programs and designing the type of reward and the timing of reward, and to investigate the effects of loyalty programs on customers` satisfaction and loyalty. The experimental study was conducted to examine the relationship between loyalty programs and performances. The experiment, which adopted a scenario methodology, was a 2(type of rewards)
2(timing of rewards) between subjects factorial design. The sample was based on 362 college students. The data analysis was completed on the basis of SPSS 12.0 package, using descriptive analysis, frequency, factor analysis, Cronbach`s a, ANOVA, and regression analysis. The following results were found in this research. First the respondent`s recognition of reward(benefit, reserve fund, experience) was not relatively high. Second, the interaction effect of type of rewards and timing of rewards on the loyalty programs` satisfaction(p<.01) and customer loyalty(p<.001) was significant, but that on customer satisfaction was not significant. Finally, loyalty programs` satisfaction positively affected customer satisfaction and loyalty. The implications of the research and directions for future researchers were discussed.