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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 33, Issue 12 - Dec 2009
Volume 33, Issue 11 - Nov 2009
Volume 33, Issue 10 - Oct 2009
Volume 33, Issue 9 - Sep 2009
Volume 33, Issue 8 - Aug 2009
Volume 33, Issue 7 - Jul 2009
Volume 33, Issue 6 - Jun 2009
Volume 33, Issue 5 - May 2009
Volume 33, Issue 4 - Apr 2009
Volume 33, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 33, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 33, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
Differences of Sleeve Cap Height & Circumference on the Improvement of Arm Mobility for Female Bodice Sloper -Concentration on the Measurement of Range-of-Motion Test Method-
Kim, Young-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1181~1189
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1181
This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan`s multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.
A Comparative Analysis of the Difference between 3D Body Scan Measurements and Physical Measurements by Gender -5
Size Korea Adult Data-
Han, Hyun-Sook ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1190~1202
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1190
A 3D body scan measurement (SM) is used as an alternative to physical measurements (PM) as the information for designing industrial products. This study compared the mean difference (MD) between SM and PM by gender and analyzed the causes of the difference. The data used in this study were the scan measurements and physical measurements of adults aged twenty to seventy years old of the fifth Size Korea survey. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The comparison of MD between men and women for all subjects: The measurement of the significant differences between men and women were height, neck base girth, chest girth, under-bust girth, waist girth, armscye girth, back length, and foot length. The causes of difference are the difference of body shape. 2. The comparison of MD between men and women by BMI groups: Many measurements had significant differences between men and women at normal weight and overweight but underweight. Some measurements had significant differences only at a specific BMI group because the body shape difference between men and women is revealed clearly in the group. The comparison of MD between men and women by age groups: The measurements that show significant difference at more than four age groups were neck girth, chest girth, under-bust girth, waist girth, armscye girth, and foot length. The height and abdomen girth had a significant difference in the age range of 20`s and 30`s. There were measurements that increase MD with an increase in age; under-bust girth and lateral shoulder length for women and lateral shoulder length for men. This comparison of MD between men and women provide the correct guidelines for the use of SM.
Clothing & Textiles Education before the First Curriculum (Part II) -Secondary School Home Economic Textbooks-
Lee, Young-Suk ; Yoo, Hye-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1203~1214
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1203
The theory of household arts and practical acts are two traditional mainstream topics of official South Korean secondary home economics education. The clothing and textile education within the Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is various and practical. The first year textbook discusses the symbolism and maintenance of uniforms that provides information on the characteristics of cotton. Clothing and textiles are covered in 26 pages out of the 76 page book. The second year textbook includes the theory of color and form, along with the characteristics of flax and silk. Clothing and textile education is covered in 33 pages out of the 97 second year textbook. The third year textbook deals with the characteristics of wool, manufactured fibers, cross weaving, removing stains, clothing arrangements, and equipment; 5 chapters (56 pages out of 137) are spent on clothing and textiles. The fourth year textbook introduces the history of clothing, laundry principles, dyeing, bedclothes, and bed accessories; 4 chapters (63 pages out of 125 pages) are spent on clothing and textiles. The Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is highly extensive and profound in depth. It is comparable with modern college or specialized high school level clothing and textile education in terms of clothing materials, clothing maintenance, color theories, and dyeing.
A Comparative Study on Korean and Chinese Apparel Attributes according to the Shopping Values of College Students
Jang, Young-Sil ; Park, Na-Ri ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1215~1226
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1215
This study classifies consumers according to apparel shopping values to find the differences of apparel attributes in accordance to shopping value segments between Korean and Chinese college students. College students from Seoul and Beijing participated in the study and a quota sampling method collected the data. Data from 504 questionnaires is used for the statistical analysis. A factor analysis through, Cronbach`s alpha coefficient, ANOVA, and a post-hoc test are conducted. Two factors of apparel shopping values are classified (hedonic shopping values and utilitarian shopping values). Four segments of apparel shopping value were classified (hedonic shopping, low involvement shopping segment, high involvement shopping, and utilitarian shopping). Three factors of apparel attribute are classified (external attributes, internal/aesthetic attributes, and internal/quality attributes). The result indicate that high involvement shopping segments considered all the clothing attributes more importantly than the other three segments. Chinese respondents of hedonic shopping segments and high involvement shopping segments considered advertisements in terms of external attributes, assembly, and fit in terms of internal/quality performance attributes as more important than Koreans. Chinese respondents of low involvement shopping segments also considered assembly and fit in terms of internal/quality performance attributes as more important than Koreans. Korean respondents of utilitarian shopping segments had a special regard for design and color in terms of internal/aesthetic attributes but the Chinese had a special regard for assembly, fit, and ease of maintenance in terms of internal/quality performance attributes.
Design Development for Toddler`s Playwear
Lee, Youn-Hee ; Park, Hye-Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1227~1240
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1227
This study examines the actual conditions of toddler playwear preference survey for design and function. The study develops proper indoor and outdoor playwear for toddlers based on the analysis. A survey of 200 parents with toddlers between 2 and 6 years old and 120 teachers was conducted to find the conditions and needs for playwear along with the necessary design elements. Second, 6 designs including 3 designs for indoor playwear and 3 designs for outdoor playwear were made. These designs emphasized on soil contamination part, color, pattern, form, material, detail, and fasteners. Art play and cooking play are considered for indoor playwear and ways to decrease contamination on sleeve hem, elbow, chest, and knee were determined through the use of yellow, green, and blue colors. Applying a character and separate top with sleeves were determined. Light with breathable and waterproof fabric was determined. The correct amount of Velcro fasteners or buttons was determined for front fastening in addition a pocket was considered necessary as a detail part. The common design for both boys and girls along with a proper design for diverse play were determined. For outdoor playwear, water play, sand play, movement play, and ecology experience are considered and ways to decease contamination on hip, sleeve hem, and knee should be applied to the design as determined through the use of yellow, green, blue, and red colors. The demands for pattern, form, material, and details were similar to indoor playwear. Zipper and buttons for front fastening were determined. These final 6 playwear designs are presented using CAD WALK DESIGNWARE.
Re-orienting Fashion of Modern Fashion by the Approach of Semiotics -Focusing on Korea, China, and Japan-
Min, Jeong-Ah ; Chae, Keum-Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1241~1252
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1241
This study is on the internal and external characteristics along with the phenomena of dress and ornaments expressed in them by analyzing Re-orienting Fashion (which is a system of signs and symbols) based on the theories of semiology in the search for the Korean identity by examining a Re-orienting Fashion that is being reinterpreted. Re-orienting Fashion performs the role of signs that act in the spread of Oriental culture through the globalization of traditional dress and ornaments in the Orient. It also has a meaning that converts the world of fashion to a new direction. When analyzing the system of signs and symbols in Re-orienting Fashion (based on the theories of semiology) the conclusions are that an eclectic symbol system has been formed by the combination of the pursuit of modernization in traditional dress and ornaments with post-modernism. A nature-friendly symbol system has been shaped as a natural silhouette in terms of the combination with Eastern philosophy that searches for a harmony with nature according to ecological trends. The ideal of a symbol system means the introduction of design elements in traditional dress and ornaments of the East as a rejection of Western civilization and as an alternative to the fixed pattern of the West.
Origami Inspiration in Contemporary Fashion
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1253~1261
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1253
The paper-folding effect of origami signifies a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in a more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, and an absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body. Origami inspiration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores a trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. This study inquires on the influence of origami as a method to create new vestmental space in contemporary fashion. The flat-plane clothes of origami-inspired design are no longer cut to the body and the clothes could be altered by the wearer. The space is introduced in between a three-dimensional dress-body and the body. Origami-inspired design in Japanese avant-garde fashion deconstructs the convention and promotes a symbiosis of body and clothing instead. The shape of the body is completely estranged by three-dimensional sculptures, alluding to the paper folds of origami and the movement of the body that are transmitted to the clothing through fine folding that transform into an unexpected event.
Upper Body Shape Classification and the Characteristics of Obese Women
Yoon, Hye-Jun ; Choi, Hyun-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1262~1272
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1262
The study is classifies the figures of obese women aged 20-50 with an over 25 BMI from the data of the fifth Size Korea in 2005. As the result of conducting the factor analysis for segmenting the shape, Factor 1, Factor 2, Factor 3, and Factor 4 are respectively derived as the factor on a volume, the factor on the size of the vertical direction, the factor on the shoulder region, and the factor on the body length balance. As the result of conducting the cluster analysis using 4 factors (scores extracted from the analysis of factor analysis) the body type of obese women was classified into four types. The name of shape was specified by combining `P` (an abbreviation of petite) that indicated the height (smaller than 155cm) among the height names of KS standard, `R` (abbreviation of regular) that indicated the height (155cm-165cm) and the body characteristics. Type 1 had the longest length, and normal circumference, thickness, and width but with the developed shoulder. Type 1 was classified as a robust, `Plus-RH`. Type 2 had the middle height, the shortest length of the upper part, a relatively-long length of the lower part of body. Type 2 shows the characteristics of a small body that was classified as `Plus-PI`. The most obese body was Type 3 that had the normal length and shoulder size but showed the longest length of the upper part of the body; it was classified as `Plus-PO`. Type 4 as the small shape had a potbelly and showed the characteristics of the shortest body classified as `Plus-Pb`.
Effect of Nano Silver Coating on the Mechanical Properties and Hand of Cotton Fabrics
Kang, Mi-Jung ; Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1273~1279
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1273
This study examined the difference in the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics treated with nano silver. Nano silver powder, UV-absorber, and DMDHEU are applied to cotton fabrics. The reagents added in a finishing solution were Triton X-100 and
. The mechanical properties of the fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. From these, the primary hand values were evaluated by the conversion equation (KN-202-DS). The results of this study are summarized as follows. The fabric tensile properties and bending properties are increased by the application of nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed. The values of tensile properties in the warp direction were significantly lower than those in the weft direction. However, the values of bending properties in the warp direction were higher than those in the weft direction. The differences in the values of compression parameters by nano silver coating were unnoticeable. However, the compression energy and resilience of compression in each fabric was increased by DMDHEU treatment. The SMD values of cotton fabrics are decreased by nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed treatment.
Characteristics of Design Elements in Environment-Friendly Fashion -Focus on the Content Analysis of Previous Literature-
Ha, Seung-Yeon ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1280~1292
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1280
In the current fashion design, the `environmental friendliness` affects the practically and conceptuality in all industry and culture sectors. This study seeks to examine specific design elements as the content of design factors in environment oriented fashion. The subjects of this paper are studied through scholarly journals that are confined to those from 1990 (when naturalism and ecology trends started to be in fashion) to February 2009. This study used `Naturalism`, `Green`, `Environment-friendly`, `Eco`, `Sustainable`, `Well-being` and `Lohas` as key words for the literature search. The analysis is performed through a content analysis and the unit of analysis is based upon the adjectives, nouns, and phrases related to the content of the design elements such as line, color, and textiles. In the results, more expression is natural, minimal, transformable, and sportive style in line, YR, white, soft, pale, and dull tone in color. The prominent textiles and texture were natural fabrics, environment-friendly fabrics, recycled fabrics, natural dyeing, functional finishes, rustic surfaces, flexibility, and extensibility. The results of this paper will help in future fashion design product development for environment-friendly fashion brands.
The Effects of Similarity and Brand Fit of Extension Type on Beauty Brand Attitude
Choi, Jung-Sun ; Jeon, Jung-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1293~1305
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1293
Despite the attention regarding the effects of brand extension, there is limited research focused on brand extension in the beauty industry. This study discusses whether the similarity of extensional types and brand fit has any effect on the brand attitude toward beauty brand extension. This study examines the changes in the brand attitude and finds the effect of the similarity of extensional types and brand fits on brand attitude toward beauty brand extension. In the experiment, 4 description type factorial designs were performed. A total of 114 females participated in the experiment that had an experience of visiting a beauty salon. The results are as follows. First, the similarity of an extensional product-type has a positive effect on attitude toward parent beauty brand, while the similarity of extensional service-type does not. Second, there are significant independent and interaction effects between similarity and brand fit, which reveal differential influences on attitudes toward an extended beauty brand. Attitudes toward parent and extended beauty brands were affected by the similarity of extensional types and brand fit.
An Exploratory Study on the Proportion of the Male Body According to Obesity
Choi, Young-Lim ; Han, Sul-Ah ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1306~1314
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1306
This study investigates the progress of obesity in men from childhood to adulthood, by analyzing the measurement references from the 5th Size Korea. It also seeks to analyze the characteristics of obese figures through the comparison of body proportions to normal-weight people, to provide a basic reference for the development of new size categories and improved pattern grading. The age range is divided into three groups: children (2-7), teenagers (13-18), and adults (19-39). The results of research into the characteristics of body proportions of obese figures and the classification of different figure groups of obese people are as follows. The ratio between width and circumference for each part of the body was investigated according to body weight that was grouped into three different categories of low, normal, and obese body weights. The result demonstrated that in all the ranges of age, the obese groups had the lowest ratio between width and circumference in having a thick body shape. According to the results that compared the ratio of the circumference of each body part divided by the waist circumference, the obese group showed a low ratio that indicates that they have a bigger waist circumference than other parts of the body. Two factors are identified as contributing to obesity in analyzing the ratio of the circumference of body parts divided by waist circumference. Using the factor loadings of the upper and lower body obesity, a cluster analysis was carried out and three different categories of obesity were defined; lower body obesity, abdominal obesity, and upper body obesity. The obese groups of children and teenagers were mostly in body shape with lower obesity and abdominal obesity, whereas the adults group showed the obesity present in the upper body obesity that have fewer cases in lower body obesity.
Study of Consolidation of Excavated Fabric with Golden Thread
Hong, Moon-Kyung ; Bae, Soon-Wha ; Lee, Mee-Sik ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1315~1324
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1315
This study is on the consolidation process of the conservation process of fabric with golden thread found in relics. Gold film was glued to pieces of Korean paper and satin using hide glue, which is a natural adhesive and resin Paraloid B-72, which is a liquid type adhesive. This study examines the types and concentration of the adhesives that are appropriate for consolidating gold film on fabric. The advantage of hide glue is that it is harmless to humans and has a high stability. This glue is also believed to be the closest to the adhesive that was used when the relic was originally made. Its weakness is that it is stiff and weaker than chemical glues, but after being washed with water the adhesion level increases. Therefore, hide glue is appropriate in the following instances: a) when washing after consolidation b) when the substrate of gold threads are significantly damaged, and c) when treating greater sized relics that take a longer time to work on. However, Paraloid B-72 has a better adhesion and flexibility than hide glue, but tends to spread out into a greater area, and the area where it is applied tends to absorb less water than before the application. In addition, it is noxious and can be harmful in long-term exposure. Therefore, Paraloid-72 is appropriate in the following instances: a) when consolidating the fabric after washing, and b) when working on smaller relics and consolidating smaller parts of a relic. The necessary concentration levels for consolidants for gold film are 30% for liquid type hide glue and at least 10% for Paraloid B-72 in order for the gold film to stay intact on the fabric during washing, consolidation, exhibition, and conservation.
Aesthetical Approach of Beauty Design in the 21
Century -Focus on Korean Aesthetics-
Byun, Young-Hee ; Chae, Keum-Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1325~1336
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1325
This study is to find the interpretation of Korean aesthetics with emotional, relative, synthetic thinking in the ambiguity of characteristics of multi-culturalism and ambivalence in contemporary beauty design. Beauty design incorporates makeup and hair design to complete the total images with clothing in fashion shows and Korean aesthetics based on Korean religion and art that include the symbolism of humor, irregularity, moderation, harmony, unification, and emptiness. This study analyzes 864 works of make-up and hair design from 2001 S/S to 2009 F/W to understand the beauty design to summarize the natural, eclectic, classic, poor, humor, and decadent tendencies. The characteristics of aesthetics sense of Beauty Design are summarized as artless naturalism, integrate pluralism, de-constructive deviation, and temperate poverty.
Analysis of Domestic Research Trends in Fashion Illustration
Kim, Mi-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 33, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1337~1346
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.8.1337
This study examines research trends in the dissertations and theses on fashion illustration, as part of the necessity of the enlargement of this field into different areas and the importance of fashion research that will in the future. Currently, there are efforts to find the state of pervasive trends in thesis or that of dissertations in this area to help deter existing studies from producing mutually supplementary and constructive results. This also includes research that may have been overlapped in part or biased toward particular fields. This study is to solidify the research trend in papers and dissertations on fashion illustration in fields unexamined to suggest some of the right direction for research and development in fashion illustration. The selected data involved papers and dissertations published between 1990 and April 2009 by domestic graduate schools. To understand the research trend by item, descriptive statistics are utilized to acquire statistical data on the frequency and percentage in the creation of graphs. The findings of the study are as follows: There has been a steady increase in the rates of the theses and dissertations in this field in yearly domestic research fashion trends in illustration since 2002. In terms of the annual trend by the type of research, the number of the theses and dissertations on the production of works is larger than that of theoretical ones. This indicates that more attention should be given to theoretical research in this area. In regard to research themes and methods, many theses and dissertations were included with the production of works that showed a need to diversify the scope of research.