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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 34, Issue 12 - Dec 2010
Volume 34, Issue 11 - Nov 2010
Volume 34, Issue 10 - Oct 2010
Volume 34, Issue 9 - Sep 2010
Volume 34, Issue 8 - Aug 2010
Volume 34, Issue 7 - Jul 2010
Volume 34, Issue 6 - Jun 2010
Volume 34, Issue 5 - May 2010
Volume 34, Issue 4 - Apr 2010
Volume 34, Issue 3 - Mar 2010
Volume 34, Issue 2 - Feb 2010
Volume 34, Issue 1 - Jan 2010
Selecting the target year
A Comparative Study of Indigo Dyes and Dyeing in 19
Century Korea and England
Kim, Soon-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 1933~1946
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.1933
This paper is a comparative analysis of the
century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.
Effects of the Centrality of Visual Product Aesthetics and Aesthetic Experiences on Impulse Buying Behavior for Fashion Products
Kim, Han-Na ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 1947~1956
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.1947
This study is to understand fashion product aesthetics by exploring the antecedents of aesthetic experiences and the influence of aesthetic experiences on impulse buying behavior. A total of 520 usable questionnaires were obtained through an internet survey. A structural equation model using a correlation matrix with maximum likelihood was estimated by using AMOS 18.0 to examine the relationships among aesthetic value, aesthetic acumen, affective experience, cognitive experience, and impulse buying behavior. The results showed that aesthetic value and acumen had a significant effect on the cognition of aesthetic experiences and that aesthetic experiences had a significant effect on impulse buying behavior. These results highlight the powerful motivational force behind fashion product aesthetics. The key implications for research and management are discussed further.
A Study on the Characteristics of Digital Architecture Expressed in the Contemporary Fashion Works of Hussein Chalayan
Chun, Jae-Hoon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 1957~1967
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.1957
This study analyses the qualities of digital architecture applying digital technologies by examining the qualities applied to the fashion designs of Husssein Chalayan. The aim of this study is to forecast in what ways the digital influence over fashion will evolve. This study was based on literature and case studies to examine the characteristics of digital architecture, and a case analysis of fashion design was conducted on the collections of Hussein Chalayan that draw heavily from technology. As a result, it was possible to classify the characteristics of digital architecture into five groups - immateriality, interactivity, nonlinearity, liquidity, and hypersurface; in addition, all of these characteristics were found in the works of Hussein Chalayan. The digital paradigm will continue to influence modern architecture and fashion in functional and/ or expressive terms that will continue to strengthen through the further advancement of digital technology.
Comparison of Virtual Avatars by Using Automatic and Manual Method
Lim, Ho-Sun ; Istook, Cynthia L. ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 1968~1979
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.1968
New technology that includes 3D body scanning, digital virtual human, and digital virtual garments has had a significant impact on the current apparel industry. Virtual simulation technology enables the visualization of a 3D virtual garment on a virtual avatar so that consumers can try on garments with their virtual avatars before purchasing. However, the manual virtual avatar provided for online apparel shopping currently has revealed limitations on the different body sizes and shapes of customers. This study analyzes the process of designing the automatic virtual avatar and the manual virtual avatar using OptiTex software; in addition, the study compares the practicality of the automatic virtual avatar with that of the manual virtual avatar. Data was examined by evaluating how much each virtual avatar is similar to the real body and how well it matched the needs of the current apparel industry. In the study, Avatar 1 was automatically created from three-dimensional body scan data and Avatar 2 was manually created from body measurements. The virtual avatar images laid over a real body image and the results were evaluated by comparing the simulated sizes of virtual avatars with those of a real body. Consequently, Avatar 1 was evaluated as more similar to the real body than Avatar 2 in all five body shapes. This study illustrates that an automatic virtual avatar might solve the fit problem that is the most common reason for a high return rate for online shopping. The results show that future virtual simulation technology needs to be improved for the practicality of the virtual avatars.
O.P.E.N Triad: The Future Success for Individuals, Institutes, and Industries
Kim, Hae-Jung ; Forney, Judith ; Crowley, Ruth ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 1980~1991
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.1980
This study proposes the O P E N Triad framework as a future set of tools and perspectives for individual members and institutes to further their professional and academic potential as well as prospect and vitalize the future of the Korean Clothing and Textiles discipline through a global perspective. The millennial generation desires On-demand, Personal, Engaging, and Networked (O P E N) experiences effecting cultural change for creative and influential interaction in transactions, communication, and education. O P E N Individuals offers a WebSphere model as a holistic learning system that has a synergizing value of education across academic courses, industries, and cultures. Through a digitalized and virtualized class, it complements relevant technologies already familiar to the student population. By employing environmental scanning approaches, the most influential and viable future global issues related to the clothing and textiles discipline are identified and dialogued within O P E N Institutes. For future clothing and textiles institutes, this scanning allows them to be open to new ideas, to focus on inter-engagements, to collaborate among individuals, to associate as a part of web of people, organizations, and ideas, to personalize an institutes curricula, and to dialogue generative knowledge. O P E N Industries reveals three dominant future issues that cross academia and industry, sustainability, supply chain management, and social networking. In-depth interviews with U.S. industry experts identified interdependent gaps in global consumer experience practices and suggested the following gaps as future research areas: a standardized business model to the entrepreneurial model, strategic management to a sustainable competitive advantage, standardized to differentiated products, services and operations, market segmentation to global consumer clusters, business-driven marketplaces to consumer-engaged marketspaces, and excellent services to optimal experience. This O P E N Triad framework empowers millennial students, universities, and industries to anticipate and prepare for a radically changing world.
The Positive Emotion Elicitation Process of Chinese Consumers Toward a U.S. Apparel Brand -A Cognitive Appraisal Perspective-
Kang, Ji-Hye ; Jin, Byoung-Ho ; Gavin, Mark ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 1992~2005
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.1992
Emotion directly affects consumer buying behavior. This study examines Chinese consumers' emotion elicitation process toward a U.S. apparel brand in the Chinese market. Employing a cognitive appraisal theory, this study proposed and tested a conceptual model incorporating three factors of consumer global orientation as antecedents of consumer emotion and purchase intention as a consequence of emotion. Among the ten proposed hypotheses, eight were supported. Of the three antecedents of consumer emotion, exposure to global mass media and cultural openness positively increased Chinese consumers' appraisals of a U.S. apparel brand. Unlike these two antecedents, the effects of exposure to mass migration on consumer appraisals were found to be non significant. The relationships between appraisal dimensions and positive emotion were all supported. Finally, this study confirmed that positive emotions increased Chinese consumers' purchase intentions of a U.S. apparel brand. Theoretical and managerial implications were discussed based on the findings.
The Images of Chinese Traditional Colors and Cultural Preferences -Focus on the Movie Costumes of
Kim, Young-Sam ; Jun, Yuh-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 2006~2021
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2006
An authentic national spirit in media (particularly films), traditional images, and color preferences is expressed through movies that are melted in local traditions. This study suggests a direction regarding the characteristics for historical costumes by examining traditional color images and cultural preference in the Chinese film
(1987), a representative film that deals with Chinese history and traditions. This movie can illustrate the correlation between the temporal backgrounds and the costumes in the movie with the criteria of Eastern color systems. The results of this research are summarized as follows. First, the image of Chinese traditional colors represented in many parts of
and the cultural preferences that underlies their works through the expression of traditional colors. The scenes of traditional costumes and colors express the visual embodiments of the costumes that reflect a specific status, ceremony, or ritual. Second, the traditional colors used in the movie are based on the Yin-Yang theory. Particularly, Red, Yellow, Black is mostly used for ordinary clothing. Third, there are some differences in the use of color arrangements, that change regarding the use of traditional colors according to images and situations that follow the intention of the director. Planning the color arrangements is considered an engaging connectivity between traditions and images in the movie and it is extended or reduced based on cultural preferences. Fourth, the increase and decrease of color arrangements is distinctively represented as the story of the movie proceeds.
An Exploratory Study on the Relationship between Country Image and the Evaluation of Fashion Products Influenced by the Ethnic Dress of Asians
Medvedev, Katalin ; Lee, Yu-Ri ; Choi, Yun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 2022~2038
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2022
Our study was designed to provide some insights on positive country image and the mechanisms of influence that Asian fashion industries can draw upon for future benefit. We focused on a country image and fashion products with Asian ethnic influence. Asian traditional costume elements reflected in contemporary fashion products may be important representative tools for national cultural identity. This study qualitatively investigated how and to what extent country image and additional information influence the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress. We conducted four focus-group interviews (FGI) with 30 students from a fashion program at a university in the United States. We analyzed the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress, and their associations with country image. Our qualitative analysis offered more developed empirical evidence for the various paths through which country image affects the evaluation of fashion products influenced by the ethnic dress of Asians. The results of our study showed that the more direct the source of prior knowledge, the larger the influence on product evaluation. This study showed that certain cues in the evaluation of fashion products with Asian ethnic influence induce changes in the affective state (that stem from the psychological and social nature of fashion products) and illustrate the necessity of considering the affective processes involved in the appropriate use of the country image. In the fashion industry, extrinsic properties such as the country image significantly influence the attitude and purchasing decisions of consumers. The significance of this study lies in its verification of the relationship between the country image and additional information. Modular and situational-contextual influences are also revealed as important factors that deserve more attention, as well as considerations regarding the dimensions of the country image described in attitude theory.
The Expressive Effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's Costumes in the Movies
Kim, Ju-Ae ; Trout, Barbara L. ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 2039~2050
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2039
This study examines Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in her portraits according to symbolic meanings and analyzes the expressive effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in the movies. The symbolic meanings through the costumes of Marie Antoinette expressed in the portraits shows the strong historical power of France in Europe along with the majestic appearance of the queen. A new perception of Marie Antoinette's taste can be found as she wore simple robe
vite in addition to extravagant costumes that demonstrated convention and position. The benevolent, extravagant, and splendid side of Marie Antoinette in history was emphasized; however, it also emphasized that she was a fashion leader with adventurous thinking and a liberal mind who accepted new things that transcend the era through this costume. The results of studying the expressive effects of Marie Antoinette's costumes as presented in the movies through the formative analysis of DeLong are as follows. The costumes expressed like this were observed through definer and the priority of observation, and it could be classified and analyzed in 4 expressive effects of excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy; in addition, it induced the visual maximization according to the flow of the movie. After the study analyzed movies about the queen through four expressive effects, the costumes were shown as excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy according to the flow of play.
Characteristics of Extreme Sports Participants' Lifestyles and Sportswear Benefits Sought -A Comparison between Participants of Extreme and Traditional Sports-
Cho, Sun-Myoung ; Kang, Ji-Hye ; Koh, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 2051~2061
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2051
Extreme sports refers to sports activities with a high level of inherent danger, such as extreme skiing, snow-boarding, mountain biking, motocross bicycling, aggressive in-line skating, wake-boarding, and paragliding. This study investigates the characteristics of extreme sports participants as group identities through an examination of the differences between extreme sports participants and traditional sports groups in lifestyle and sportswear benefits sought. We composed a total 108-item lifestyle profiles characterized by six lifestyle dimensions (dress, diet, home, recreation, consumption, and sense of values); in addition, we developed 32 items for sportswear benefits sought. The surveys targeted 422 sports participants living in Korea (216 men and 206 women, aged 15-23): 119 extreme sports participants and 303 traditional sports participants. All items were evaluated on a 5-point Likert scale, and SPSS 17.0. was used for data analysis. Exploratory factor analysis was conducted to confirm the substructure of each lifestyle dimension and sportswear benefits sought. The results of the factor analysis on each lifestyle dimension are as follows: 5 factors in dress dimension, 4 in diet, 3 in home, 6 in recreation, 5 in consumption, and 6 in sense of values. Six factors of sportswear benefit sought were identified. A t-test revealed that there were significant differences between the two groups in lifestyle dimensions and sportswear benefits sought. This study reveals that the lifestyle characteristics of extreme sports participants are more likely than traditional sports group to be more self-expressive, more distinctive, more fashion-oriented, more conspicuous, and more brand-oriented, while preferring more active sports, more dynamic leisure, and a more sensible life. Another finding is that extreme sports participants seek the distinctive, conspicuous, and latest sportswear benefits.
Changes in Absorbency and Drying Speed of a Quick-drying Knit Fabric by Repeated Laundering
Roh, Eui-Kyung ; Kim, Eun-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 2062~2072
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2062
This research evaluates the change of the water absorbency and drying speed of a quick-drying knit fabric by repeated laundering and laundering conditions and investigates the influence of laundering conditions on the functional properties of the knit fabric. Four factors of laundering conditions were studied: detergent, water hardness, water temperature, and frequency of rotation. Knit fabrics were washed for 25 laundering cycles in a drum-type washing machine with nine different laundering conditions derived from an orthogonal array. The properties of knit fabrics were measured with a drop absorption test, a strip test, and a drying time test. Relaxation shrinkage pointed to a change in the structural characteristics of the knit fabric. Wetting time was faster and wickability was greater in the knit fabrics that underwent 5 laundering cycles; in addition, there were no obvious changes in wetting time and wickability. The detergent was the most important factor in wetting time (40.4%) and wickability (60% or above). Water hardness, water temperature and RPM had less of an effect on wetting time and wickability. There were no significant differences between the levels of laundering conditions (except for detergent) on wetting time and wickability. Drying times with neutral and alkali were slower by repeated laundering; however, there was no obvious change in drying time. Hardness, water temperature and RPM had less of an impact on drying time.
Formative Characteristics of Contemporary Men's and Women's Suits
Bang, Yoon-Mi ; Ha, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 12, 2010, Pages 2073~2084
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.12.2073
This study provides references that can be applied to future suit design by analyzing the formative characteristics of modern men's and women's suits. Research on related literature and case studies were carried out simultaneously. A criterion for analyzing formative characteristics of suits was drawn up through an examination of past research. A total of 1,410 suit photographs that appeared in the U.S. edition of Vogue Magazine from 1985 to 2008 were analyzed in order to observe the formative characteristics of men's and women's suits. Research results showed that in the 1980s suits pursued a more comfortable and natural fit based on the original properties of simplicity, modernity, and practicality; in addition, women's suits had a tendency to use excessive shoulder pads due to the power-look influence. In the early 1990s exaggerated shoulders and boxy straight silhouettes were in fashion but towards the later years suit designs gradually started to fit the body and established a skinny versus slouch conflict. Women's suits gradually began to show more curvy body lines, and men's suits became more feminine on the surface in terms of color and material. In the 2000s suits have become more feminine and sensual than the 1990s, design focuses of both men's and women's suits moved to the waistline. Skinny and long styles became the ideal silhouette and differences between formative characteristics of the two genders decreased. Fashion elements of men's and women's suits are seen to have changed with a mutual intimate connection under the influence of a similar societal environment.