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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 34, Issue 12 - Dec 2010
Volume 34, Issue 11 - Nov 2010
Volume 34, Issue 10 - Oct 2010
Volume 34, Issue 9 - Sep 2010
Volume 34, Issue 8 - Aug 2010
Volume 34, Issue 7 - Jul 2010
Volume 34, Issue 6 - Jun 2010
Volume 34, Issue 5 - May 2010
Volume 34, Issue 4 - Apr 2010
Volume 34, Issue 3 - Mar 2010
Volume 34, Issue 2 - Feb 2010
Volume 34, Issue 1 - Jan 2010
Selecting the target year
Development of Maternity Wear Trousers with Improved Body Fit
Kim, Myoung-Ok ; Suh, Mi-A ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 715~725
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.715
This study suggests through an examination of maternity wear sold in domestic markets a design for maternity wear trousers that integrate functionality, aesthetics, and marketability. This study targeted women who had maternity wear experience to obtain basic information for the design of maternity wear trousers. This study conducted questionnaire research on maternity wear and surveyed the growing on-line maternity market. The results are as follows. First, in the questionnaire research on wearers of maternity wear, women 26-35 years old were the main consumers and emphasized comfortableness as the significant reason for buying and using maternity wear. Second, the centering on pants were evaluated to be the most uncomfortable item among maternity wear and confirms the necessity for a maternity wear design whose bodily fitness is high according to the trouser panel. Third, a standard for the specific design was established to solve maternity wear problems based on the analyzed information. This was established by having a concept as a minimal motive in `new naturalism` that is the aesthetics of slackness for the
century. A specific design was developed with 6 kinds for skirts and 9 kinds for pants.
A Study on Ethnic Fashion from 1980 to 2009 -Focus on the Content Analysis of Vogue Magazine-
Eun, Sook ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 726~739
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.726
This study investigates and compares the changes in ethnic fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of ethnic trends according to historical trends. Data were collected from 59 volumes of "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 407 words and these were condensed into three periods according to the decade (1980-1989, 1990-1999, and 2000-2009). The selected words were classified into five sub-themes according to previous research definitions such as Asian look, European look, American look, African look, and Oceanic look. The results are as follows. First, ethnic fashion was highly presented in the 1990s and 1980s, and decreased in the 2000s; of note is that the Asian look appeared more in the 1990s. Second, ethnic fashion showed a higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1980s and S/S seasons in the 2000s, while both seasons had a higher frequency in the 1990s. The sub-themes of coexistence were presented 26seasons out of 59 seasons. The coexistence of the Asian-European look was evident in the 1980s and 2000s, while the sub-themes coexistence was more diverse in the 1990s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of ethnic fashion demonstrated the differences by decade. In particular, various fabrics and patterns appeared in the 1990s.
Motives for Selecting Breast Augmentation and Post-Operative Evaluations of Korean Women who have Undergone Cosmetic Breast Surgery -Internalization of Ideal Body-Image Reflected on Clothing Consumption Behavior-
Kim, Su-Yeon ; Lee, Hye-Young ; Koh, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 740~753
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.740
This study analyzes the motives of Korean women for choosing breast augmentation in a cultural and relational context; in addition, it investigates their evaluations after surgery. Data was collected through in-depth interviews with 10 Korean women in their 20s and 30s who have received cosmetic breast augmentation. Enlarged and made-up breasts are a form of clothing that symbolizes the socio-economic status of women. In the vertical and individualized Korean society, the desire of women for a fashionable body invigorated the appearance management market. Fashion consumers have passively internalized the ideal body trends as the concept of the ideal body-image, which has been constructed by the social structure, markets, and the media. The analysis was rooted in post-modern feminist perspectives on the female body. The ideal body-image internalization process through the social interactions of participants was the main cultural factor to choose breast surgery. The self-image and conformity/individuality of participant were categorized as relational factors for the motivation to undergo breast surgery. The result showed that after surgery the participants achieved positive feedback from their social relationships. They expressed or hid their socio-economic statuses through their purchased fashion bodies. They also showed higher self-esteem and feelings of satisfaction by pursuing individuality and conformity as a member of society. Moreover, they achieved wider fashion options and greater controls over their public/private/secret clothing choices for certain occasions. Cosmetic breast surgery positively empowered individual women while reinforcing the socially manipulated body ideals that oppress women at the same time. Participants internalized socially constructed values and justified their surgery choices.
Objective Hand of High-performance Silk Fabrics
Kim, Hyun-Ah ; Ryu, Hyo-Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 754~764
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.754
Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.
Effects of Consumer Innovativeness, Shopping Mall Attributes, and Satisfaction on E-loyalty for Fashion Products
Park, Shin-Young ; Park, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 765~774
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.765
This study investigates the effects of consumer innovativeness on e-loyalty mediated by shopping mall attributes and consumer satisfaction with the Internet. Data were obtained from 243 consumers who had bought fashion products through online shopping. Data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach`s alpha, and path analysis using LISREL 8.53 program. The results of this study suggest that the consumer innovativeness, such as Internet-innovativeness and Fashion-innovativeness affect shopping mall attributes including Loading, Visual, Information, Variety, and Price/Fashion. These attributes and the shopping mall satisfaction partially mediated the impact of consumer innovativeness on e-loyalty of shopping malls through the Internet. Especially, consumer satisfaction was the most important determinant to build up e-loyalty for the online shopping of fashion products. The findings provide implications for e-retailers to develop strategies related to consumer innovativeness, shopping mall attributes, and the e-loyalty of shopping malls for fashion products.
Natural Dyeing Absorption Properties of Chitosan and Nano Silver Composite Non-Woven Fabrics -Focus on Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn-
Hong, Byung-Suk ; Chu, Young-Ju ; Lee, Eun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 775~783
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.775
This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and the antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics dyed with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that an increase in the chitosan and nano silver percentage resulted in an increase in the
values; however, the
values decreased in the undyed condition.
values of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics were higher than cotton 100% non-woven fabrics in the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. In the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, an increase in the percentage of chitosan and nano silver resulted in an increase of the K/S values. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics increased by mordant treatments. The light fastness and washing fastness of the mordanted non-woven fabrics were better than the non-mordanted. For the antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.
The Congruence between the Self-Image and Advertising Image of Consumers on Advertising Attitude and Brand Attitude -The Moderating Roles of Product Type and Message Type on Cosmetics Advertising-
Choi, Jung-Sun ; Jeon, Jung-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 784~796
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.784
Consumers focus on information about the symbolic meaning of a product for highly involved and emotional products (such as cosmetic products). This study examines the effectiveness of the congruence between cosmetics advertising image and self-image on consumer attitudes. In addition, this study examines two additional moderating effects, which are `product type` and `message type`. For the experiment, four advertizing type factorial designs were performed. A total of 320 undergraduate female students in Korea participated in the experiment. This study captured the subjective judgments of consumers on these three comparisons in terms of advertizing attitude, brand attitude, and purchase intention. The results are as follows: First, the greater the self-congruity on cosmetic advertising, then the greater the effectiveness on advertizing attitude. Second, the increased self-congruity on cosmetic advertising did not create greater effectiveness on brand attitude. Third, increased advertizing attitudes on the congruence between cosmetics advertising image and self-image increased the effectiveness on brand attitude. Fourth, increased advertizing attitudes on the congruence between cosmetics advertising image and self-image improved the effectiveness on purchase intention. Fifth, the greater the brand attitude (on the congruence between the cosmetics advertising image and the self-image produced)increased the effectiveness for purchase intention. The results show a significant moderating role of the product type. Marketers can use the results of this study to understand the market of cosmetic products for promotion.
The Effects of Consumer Brand Identification and Brand Attachment to Brand Equity
Rhee, Young-Ju ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 797~807
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.797
This study investigates the effects of consumer brand identification and brand attachment to brand equity. 332 surveys were collected from male and female university students in Seoul. In each survey, respondents were asked to choose one favorite fashion brand that they often purchase and answer questions regarding brand identification, brand attachment, and brand equity. The results were analyzed using SPSS package 12.0 and AMOS 5.0 program and factor analysis, reliability analysis, and path analysis were conducted. After the factor analysis, 3 factors were found under brand identification, 4 factors under brand attachment, and 4 factors under brand equity. The Cronbach`s
of brand identification was .84, the brand attachment was .80, and the brand equity was .81. The results of this study show that brand identification had a positive effect on brand attachment that had a positive effect on brand equity. Additional results show that both brand identification and brand attachment had a positive direct effect on brand equity; however, brand attachment had a higher effect on brand equity.
Comparative Study between Married and Unmarried Women on Consumption Values and Clothing Benefits -Focusing on Working Women in their 20`s and 30`s-
Lee, Mi-Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 808~818
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.808
This study compares the consumption values and clothing benefits between married and unmarried women. The data were collected from a questionnaire with 548 working women in their 20`s and 30`s. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, reliability analysis, t-test, and one way ANOVA. The factor analysis on consumption values resulted in five dimensional structures: pro-environmental, conspicuous, enjoyable, aesthetic, and economic values. Five dimensions of clothing benefits were identified by factor analysis: individuality, social recognition, well-known brands, practicality, and low price pursuit. The respondents were classified into four groups by marital status and age, as well as two groups only by marital status. There were significant differences among the groups in demographic characteristics, consumption values, and clothing benefits. The results provide insight into marketing strategies of apparel makers or retailers targeting single women.
A Study on the Development of the Medical Gowns for Interns and Residents at a University Hospital -Focus on Pockets and Movement Adaptability-
Yun, Hee-Young ; Choi, Hei-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 819~830
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.819
This study proposes medical gowns for interns and residents that address the functions of utility and activity. Based on the questionnaires, the prototype focused on the pockets for practical use and movement adaptability. Functional pockets were made by increasing pocket sizes and separating pockets with sections according to use. An inside pocket and a loop for an identification tag was placed on the chest pocket and the side seam pocket were oblique lined. To resolve horizontal stress on the back of the gown,6 cm action pleats were added at both ends of the bladebone. The elbow area was tucked up to improve the workplace activities. To reduce hamper on the gown hemline, slits were added along the gown side seam. The front button was changed into an inside button closure. The cuffs, belt, and back waist belt were removed due to occupational cases of inconvenience. The length of the sleeves was adjusted with belts to improve the movement of the arms. In accordance with design preference, the gown was designed to be knee-length with wrist length sleeves. Blue colored (2.5PB 3/12: by Munsell) material was inserted to reduce the contamination on the neck, cuffs, front closure, and hemline area. The planning cloth of the experimental gown was designed to improve activity function, cleaning, and comfort from light materials. The field test (with 30 doctors at university hospitals and the objective assessment with 9 subject groups)were done by the valuation between the existing gown and the prototype. The results showed that the prototype had to be modified by decreasing the pocket size, expanding the usage of the penholder, and simplify front pockets in order to maintain unity. The loop for the identification tag, inside pocket, and the blue colored material had to be removed. The front closure of the gown had to return to its original state.
Female Images Portrayed in Advertisements for Mass-Produced Women`s Clothing in the 1980s Korea
Shin, Hye-Young ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 831~843
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.831
This paper examines the advertisements for mass-produced women`s clothing, which appeared in the 1980s issues of the fashion magazine Wolganmeot. This study explores the communicative aspect of fashion advertisements of the 1980s as a platform for complex and dynamic interactions between fashion brands, female consumers, and the rapidly changing social, cultural, and economic conditions of the period. The research focuses on advertisements in the formal and character casual categories that targeted young, urban, and career-seeking women. Based on the analysis of the visual and textual elements of the advertisements from a pragmatics perspective, this paper concludes that fashion brands sought to highlight an `intelligent`, `urban`, and `individualistic` image of women. It also proposes that the prevalence of assertive and straightforward textual elements, copies, indicates the efforts of fashion brands to stabilize and reinforce the advertising messages in the fast-evolving landscapes of the fashion industry and changing consumption habits.
The Quality Characteristics Based on Customer-required Attributes of Middle and Elderly Women`s Formal Knitwear
Lee, Yoon-Mee ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 844~855
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.844
An important issue for the improvement of product quality is to identify and understand the customer-required attributes of a product. This paper identifies and analyzes customer-required attributes of formal knitwear for middle age and elderly women through the use of the Kano model in order to develop competitive products. Various research methods were used in this study. Customer voices for formal knitwear were collected by means of brainstorming and in-depth interviews. The collected customer voices were transformed into customer-required attributes with the use of an affinity diagram. In addition, the data was collected by means of a questionnaire and was statistically analyzed to examine the dimensions of customer-required attributes on the basis of the Kano model. The results are as follows. Five categories of customer-required attributes were identified (symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance). The analysis based on the Kano model identifies a strong one-dimensional quality in all of the categories of customer-required attributes and the attractive quality that includes a one-dimensional quality in the categories of fitness and usefulness. The findings of this study demonstrate the applicability of the affinity diagram for apparel that educates formal knitwear developers of the customer-required attributes that they should strategically focus on in order to develop competitive products.
Analysis of Domestic Woman Character Casual Brand Design for Party Wear Design Development
O, Ji-Hye ; Lee, In-Seong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 856~865
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.856
Many efforts to develop the domestic fashion industry have continued under the influence of a rapidly changing fashion industry environment. The fashion industry has emerged as a future growth industry leading lifestyle and as a core industry for the culture biz. Since the 2000`s the markets that combined party and fashion wear as a new cultural trend has grown and an in-depth study of design development for party wear is required. This study presents basic materials for design development for the future domestic woman character casual brand prior to the design development by analyzing design characteristics of domestic female character casual brands. In the research methods, nine brands were selected based on the discussion of ten fashion specialists and then the brand concept, target, configuration of items, price, and design characteristics were analyzed. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, each brand concentrated the main focus on establishing a clear and unique brand identity that meets the needs of consumers to enhance competitiveness in the woman`s dress market. To enhance competitiveness, many character casual brands targeting women aged 20`s and 30`s (including BEART) held party wear goods exhibitions as the market for party wear has increased significantly. Second, according to study results of the selected nine brand designs, it was found that the style characteristic of each brand varies depending on concept. However, all nine brand designs developed various styles such as feminine and cute style making use of laces, ruffles, A line silhouette, colorful motifs, and a stylish style that used layers with various materials along with unique decorations based on romantic emotions. Third, seven hundred and thirty eight pictures of nine brands were analyzed by items without identifying brands. According to the result of the analysis, the percentage of items used by brands was as follows: a one-piece dress was 34.5%, jacket 25.7%, skirt and pants 15.5%, blouse and shirt 13.6%, and tops 10.6%. The result showed that one-piece dresses accounted for the highest percentage. Frill accounted for 16.6%, the highest percentage followed by ribbons at 16% in regards to detail and trimming.
Dyeability of Silk Fabrics with Machilus thunbergii Cortex
Han, Mi-Ran ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 866~872
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.866
This study investigates the methods of the natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex extract. After the dyeing of silk with a Machilus thunbergii cortex extract, the dyeability of the Machilus thunbergii cortex extract was evaluated with the dyeing time, concentration, temperature, the numbers of repeated dyeing, the pH of the dyebath, the changes of the K/S value, and surface colors by the methods of mordanting and color fastness. The effective dyeing conditions with silk fabrics were at a concentration of 120g/L, the dyeing temperature at
, and the dyeing time for one hour ten minutes. The effective number of repeated dyeing was three times. The dyeing operation was carried out in a neutral dyebath of pH 7. The K/S value was higher in most of the pre-mordants (except the Sn mordant) and a high K/S value was shown in the copper pre-mordant. The colors of the silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex were of various brown shades. The color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant and the colorfastness of all the dyed samples was low; however, the dry cleaning fastness was excellent at the 4-5 grade.
The Reality of Shi-Kai Yuan`s `Unity` Sprit in Jisiguanfuzhi
Choi, Kyu-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 34, issue 5, 2010, Pages 873~887
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.5.873
Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of `unity.` Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve `unity` and Juebianfu was associated with `unity` because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized `unity` by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.