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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 37, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 37, Issue 7 - Oct 2013
Volume 37, Issue 6 - Aug 2013
Volume 37, Issue 5 - Jul 2013
Volume 37, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 37, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 37, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 37, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
Comparison of the Functional Minimalism in Fashion and Architecture
Park, Seon-Ji ; Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 247~259
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.247
This study conceptually approaches and clearly compares the similarities and differences of fashion and architecture through a focus on their correlations. This study identifies the conceptual definitions of functional minimalism by an examination of function that represents the largest similarity between architecture and fashion. This study classifies the nature of functional minimalism and studies cases for each architectural classification in the areas of: the simplicity of a structure, unitarity pursuit of economic value, repeatability in an efficiency unit, reducibility stressing property, and multi-functional spatiality. The characteristics of functional minimalism fashion are distinguish as: simplicity in a structure that highlight structural lines in non-decorated design, unitarity pursuit of economic value represented in united process and pattern for its economic effect, repeatability in an efficiency unit represented through the repeated decoration of a functional unit, reducibility stressing a property that emphasizes property with a dominant design element through a highlight of the characteristics of materials and multi-functional spatiality that represents variability in clothes through an expansion of limited spatial function. This study approaches each discipline with a clear understanding of the differences between the two and suggests standards for a comparative study of architecture and fashion.
Directional Internalization of Sociocultural Values Related to the Appearance of Body Image and Self-Esteem
Yoo, Tai Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 260~269
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.260
This study verifies the direct and indirect causal relationship of sociocultural values related to appearance effect appearance evaluation, body area satisfaction, appearance orientation, and self-esteem that are variables involved in body images. This paper is expected to empirically support the information regarding the path and the relative influence among related-variables and their relational structures. A survey was conducted on 230 women from the ages of 20 to 29 who live in Daegu and Gyeongbuk areas. The data analysis was performed through programs such as AMOS 19.0 and SPSS 19.0 for Windows. The findings are as follows: First, Sociocultural values relating to appearance affect directly body image - appearance evaluation, body area satisfaction, and appearance orientation. Appearance evaluation and appearance orientation were influenced positively; however, body area satisfaction received egative effects. In addition, sociocultural values related to appearance exert relatively stronger influence on appearance orientation. Second, among body images, appearance evaluation and body area satisfaction directly effect self-esteem; however, appearance orientation did not show any direct influence. Appearance evaluation influenced relatively higher on self-esteem. Third, it appeared that appearance evaluation directly affected Appearance orientation. Forth, sociocultural values related to appearance affect self-esteem through body images-appearance evaluation, body area satisfaction, and appearance orientation - as mediators. This confirmed the mediator role of body image between sociocultural values related to appearance and self-esteem.
Modernization of the Korean Traditional Patterns and Its Application to T-Shirts
Ye, In Geol ; Kim, Dong Uk ; Chung, Ihn Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 270~279
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.270
This study presents a T-shirt design process that utilizes modernized traditional patterns; in addition, it also includes various modernization techniques for Korean traditional patterns. T-shirts are a representative casual wear item worn in everyday life, especially among young people. The association of traditional elements and public goods such as T-shirts effects the diffusion of the Korean image into global society. Through the whole design process, target groups and design concepts were determined first: collegiate students as well as clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image, respectively. Subsequently, Dokkaebi, lotus, Dangcho, dragon and Taegeuk patterns were selected as traditional pattern sources. Along with the technique of the division, transformation, and configuration of original patterns, the combining method of geometrical figures, stripe patterns, and check patterns with traditional patterns was helped create modernized traditional motives. Finally, T-shirt designs with a Korean image were developed with the harmonized deployment of modernized motives and color planning. The survey showed that designs had a clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image that was preferred by collegiate students. This study is relevant in three aspects. First, the design process of modernization was very creative to combine traditional patterns and basic figures. Second, this study expanded the scope of traditional image design to casual wear to promote the Korean image to young people all over the world. Third, the whole design process, from planning to final product development, presented in this study is applicable to other design processes.
A Study on Desirable Breast Type of Women in Their Twenties Based on the Ratio of Breast in Works of Art and Cup Design According to Breast Type
Sohn, Boo Hyun ; Kweon, Soo Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 280~291
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.280
This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52
(the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73
(height of the nipple) + 12.85
(the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67
(bust circumference) -24.29
(under-bust circumference) + 16.31
(neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83
(bust breadth) + 12.22
(waist depth) -8.34
(interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.
A Study on Present State of Technical Designers' Work Responsibilities and Training Conditions -Targeting Technical Designers Working for Clothing Vendors and Agents-
Lee, Eun-Young ; Choi, Hei-Sun ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 292~305
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.292
This study reported present state of clothing technical designers' work duties and working conditions, so as to suggest effective ways to develop professional training methods for them. Technical designers working for vendors and agents were surveyed as they represent the majority of technical designers in Korean clothing industries. Survey participants were 62 technical designers working for 6 clothing vendors and 2 clothing agents, and the survey closely inspected their work qualifications, duties and responsibilities, working conditions and training conditions. Survey was conducted from June
, 2012. The questionnaire examined frequency analysis and multiple response analysis using SPSS 19.0 Windows after investigating documents and work fields through personal experiences and interviews from technical designers for data collection and analysis. A chi-square test analyzed the preferred type of fitting for technical designers of vendors and agents. The results showed that 32.3% of those surveyed have more than 7 years of work experience and the highest level of education is predominantly a bachelor's degree (57 people, 91.9%). Among the work responsibilities, respondents did sample measuring more than four times a day. Also, the results showed that technical designers needed to qualify: first 'Fitting Technic', second 'Pattern Correction Capability', and third 'English Skills to Communicate with Buyers'; subsequently, education on several technics (such as measuring, grading, and fitting) were required for the job. Current technical designers answered that they need more various work-related education. However, the analyzed results showed that pre work-related training was insufficient. The data shows that technical designers require re-education in 'Pattern Correction Method' (61.3%) and 'Sewing Education' (64.5%).
Plus-size Women and Appearance Management with a Focus on Clothing -Grounded Theory Based Exploratory Study-
Yu, Haekyung ; Ko, Sunyoung ; Kim, Chanju ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 306~319
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.306
This study explores various issues of appearance management behavior for plus-size women in Korea with a focus on clothing. In-depth interviews and focused group interviews were conducted with 24 plus-size women. The interviews were recorded and the transcripts were analyzed based on grounded theory. Discomfort was the main phenomenon involving the experience of plus-size women related to appearance management. Psychological as well as physiological/physical discomfort, unmet needs (regarding clothing) and inconvenient shopping experiences were frequently mentioned. Causal conditions for discomfort were obesity, social stigma, and an underdeveloped clothing market for plus-size consumers. Interviewees developed strategies to cope with discomfort (suppressing clothing need, loss of interest in clothing, diversion from clothing needs, sole focus on physical comfort, dress-up and increase in shopping channels, and change in shopping patterns) that depended on contextual conditions (such as duration of obesity and attitudes of people) close to the interviewees. The discomfort of interviewees decreased or continued depending on if they became ambivalent about their obese condition, lost weight, or utilized plus-size specialty stores.
Characteristics of Light Art Shown in the 21
Kim, Sun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 320~333
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.320
This study deals with light art reflected in
century fashion to help understand technology art, convergence art, or light art that appears as a trend in modern art that provides the basic material used for original fashion design in the future. Two methods were in the research. One is the review of the related literature. The other is the review of a case study about light art featured in modern art since 2000. Research results from trends in the
century fashion are characterized in the following manners. First, this is the direct addition of various light sources to clothing such as LED, laser and EL film, through which a fantastic image is produced with many features in light that includes radiation, reflection, and refraction that extends the realm of clothing space. Second, this has replaced the general meaning of screen by the space in the name of costumes worn on the human body to show a spatial portion that expresses the image projection, virtual graphics through screen media, and a positive digital image. Third, this makes it possible to realize a spatial structure in 3D or 4D beyond a function that enables the highlight of a virtual image with only holography or generate a 2D. Amid this extended capability, the reality space has been reached under the name of collection by a deconstruction of the materialistic space concept and widening the expanded virtual space. Through this examination of a case study, fashion in the
century fashion using light art could be characterized as fantasy, virtuality, interaction, and convergence.
Influence of Shopping Orientation of Female Consumers in Their 20s and 30s on Motivation for Brand-Switching in Purchasing Cosmeceuticals -Focusing on Whitening, Sunscreen, and Anti-Aging Treatments-
Kim, Myung Hee ; Hwang, Choon Sup ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 334~347
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.334
This study obtains information required for a comprehensive understanding of the brand-switching behavior by cosmetics consumers and for the establishment of effective strategies to make customers more loyal to the company. The study examines the relationships between customer shopping orientation and brand switching motives with respect to cosmeceuticals. A descriptive survey method using a self-administered questionnaire was employed. The sample consisted of 1,258 females between the ages of 20's and 30's residing in Seoul and the Gyeonggi area who use whitening products, sunscreen, or other anti-aging cosmetics. The results showed that shopping orientation influenced brand-switching motives in regards to purchasing cosmeceuticals. The orientation of depending on information and seeking fashion trend were the major factors to induce brand-switching behavior in purchasing whitening products, sunscreen, and anti-aging treatments. However, there were differences in the type of factors of shopping orientation and in their intensity of affecting brand-switching motives depending on the specific cosmeceuticals. In particular, in the case of sunscreen, as compared to other products, the customer shopping orientation should be considered from more diverse perspectives in order to formulate effective marketing strategies related to brand switching. In light of these results, customer shopping orientation with respect to cosmeceuticals is a variable that influences the cause brand switching. Therefore, differentiated marketing strategies that reflect the different characteristics of shopping orientation according to each item of cosmeceuticals are recommended to improve the satisfaction level of the companies' target market. Current consumer needs for practical benefits and for new products should be simultaneously reflected in the plans for new product development of each type of cosmeceutical.
Denim Decolorization Using Laccase
Chung, Yu Ra ; Song, Wha Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 348~356
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.348
Denim washing is processed with different washing techniques such as stone washing, chemical washing, sand washing, and bio washing. Cellulase bio washing can meet environmental regulations that enhance and rectify problems associated with traditional decolorization techniques; however, stone washing needs to be added to the processing because it produces a low decolorization effect. There is also the problem of additional strength reduction. To prevent these problems, a new enzyme for bio washing is required. This study examines the optimum laccase treatment conditions on denim and evaluated the characteristics of laccase-treated denims to establish a database of eco-friendly new decolorization process on denim using a new laccase enzyme. The results show that the optimum conditions of laccase on denim are a pH of 4.0,
, 7% (o.w.f.), and 6 hours in 10 mM of buffer concentration. UV absorbance and HPLC identified isatin coexist with anthranilic acid in solution after laccase treatment on denim. Results of the surface color, the surface morphology and the tensile strength indicate that laccase treatment shows an excellent decolorization effect without fiber damage. The wet cleaning fastness and the perspiration fastness also improved.
A Study on the Aesthetics of Women's Body in the Chinese Republican Period -Focused on Women's Magazines, Funüzazhi & Linglong-
Lee, Soon-Jae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 357~370
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.357
The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun
zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.
Expression Types and Aesthetic Characteristics of Fashion in Coca-Cola Bottle
Kim, Jang-Hyeon ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 371~385
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.371
This study considers types of expression and examines aesthetic characteristics through analyzing designs (such as the Coca-Cola contour bottle as fashion) which has actively progressed in the collaboration of fashion designers and fashion brands. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The types of fashion expression on the Coca-Cola contour bottle are a presentation of diverse fashion images through a digital print expression that allow people-friendly images to be three-dimensional (or by adding a formative element) and the use of accessories or clothes. The symbolism characteristic were first indicated for the aesthetic characteristics on the Coca-Cola contour bottle. Symbolism is indicated through the identification of an implicit meaning towards a specific object. The symbolism of fashion was highlighted by designing the Coca-Cola's contour bottle with a typical material and pattern pursued by fashion designers and fashion brands. Second, the characteristic of playfulness was presented to expresses the instinctive desire in human nature for pleasure. The expression of visual playfulness is emphasized through the combination of item and image or by changing and re-analyzing a form through refuting stereotypes. Third, the characteristic of femininity was shown to express beauty in external image or a woman's delicate and soft inner propensity. Femininity was created by presenting a sensual femininity that recognized the voluminous curve silhouette of the Coca-Cola bottle such as a sexy female body or through the combination of a women's inner beauty with the sensory image of the object.
Synthesis of Primary Studies Related to Clothing Involvement by Meta-analysis
Lee, Jongnam ; Yu, Haekyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 386~398
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.386
This study analyzes the effect of clothing involvement using meta-analysis. Metal-analysis (the analysis of analyses) is widely used in various academic areas to integrate individual empirical studies and generalize the knowledge of a specific research field. Previous studies regarding clothing involvement published since 1990 were researched from the KISS database using clothing involvement and fashion involvement as a keyword; subsequently, 127 articles were identified. Studies that had insufficient statistics or included clothing involvement as a moderating (or intervening variable) were eliminated; subsequently, 36 articles provided a total of 75 data sets that were used for the final analysis. Dependent variables were grouped into 10 categories to compare the differences between high and low involvement groups. The effect size of clothing involvement was large in non-personal information source; however, it was small in utility, brand royalty and quality. In the 7 categories of relational studies that showed homogeneity, the relation size regarding conformity was smaller than the personal information source.
A Study on Characteristics of Grotesque in Contemporary Fashion Collection -Focus on Damien Hirst's Works-
Park, Hee Jeong ; Kan, Ho-Sup ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 399~412
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.399
This study introduces a new delivery method for designs as observed in the artwork trends of Damien Hirst and reflected in the unique expression methods of Modern fashion Collections. The study analyzed numerous resources (literature, dissertations, magazines, and the internet) about Damien Hirst and the examination of a modern fashion timeline is limited to after the 2000s. The 'grotesque trend' that appears in Damien Hirst's works can be classified into five categories (fragmented animal, mismatch, excessiveness and exaggeration, comedy and awfulness, and abnormality). Based on this, the study found that heterogeneous, abject abhorrence, double sided of the play, exaggerated atypia and devilishness in Modern fashion. This study suggests a positive direction for the 'grotesque technique' that could be recognized as one of the delivery methods for a unique fashion design based on the attachment of an aesthetic value that supersedes bizarreness and strangeness to expand various methods of expression.
Extractions of Chlorophyll from Spinach and Mate Powders and Their Dyeability on Fabrics
Yoo, Hye Ja ; Ahn, Cheunsoon ; Narantuya, Lkhagva ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 413~423
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.413
Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.
The Value, Knowledge, and Sustainable Consumption Behavior of Fashion Consumers
Suk, HyoJung ; Lee, Eun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 37, issue 3, 2013, Pages 424~438
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.424
This study examines the value, knowledge and sustainable consumption behavior of fashion consumers. The study shows that universalism/harmony, security/benevolence, power, and tradition/faith have positive effects on buying/usage behavior; however, hedonism/wealth has a negative effect. Stimulation/self-direction and universalism/harmony positively influence boycott behavior; however, power has a negative influence. Universalism/harmony and politeness have positive impacts on care/disposing behavior. Consumer knowledge about fashion related environmental problems, labor practices, ethical issues and sustainable environment knowledge influence sustainable buying/usage behavior; in addition, knowledge about ethical issues and sustainable environmental problems positively influence boycott and care/disposing behavior. Moreover, there were significant differences in values, knowledge, and consumption behavior by age.