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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 38, Issue 6 - Dec 2014
Volume 38, Issue 5 - Oct 2014
Volume 38, Issue 4 - Aug 2014
Volume 38, Issue 3 - Jun 2014
Volume 38, Issue 2 - Apr 2014
Volume 38, Issue 1 - Feb 2014
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Style of Costume Types of Baekje
Chae, Keum Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 1~18
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.1
This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.
Endowment of Traditionality to the New Style Taekwondo Uniform and a Proposal of Its Design Modification
Choi, Yeon-Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 19~32
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.19
The Taekwondo uniform has remained consistent since it was officially designed in a V-neck form in 1976. Taekwondo is a martial art that emphasizes social etiquette; therefore, it is necessary to dress in a uniform that reflects Korean traditions and ancient oriental philosophy. However, the current official uniform has limitations in endowing traditionality and many usability problems. Thus, recognizing the problems raised with the uniform, the Kukkiwon (World Taekwondo Headquarters) developed a new style official uniform in 2011. This study is to endow traditional meaning to a new style uniform and proposes some design modifications that can convey a more traditional adequacy. The development of the new official uniform began with a specific plan for change from the existing uniform, this study as subsequent work is significant in that its endowment of symbolism and modification proposal is for the actual execution and global dissemination of traditional Taekwondo culture. The results of this study are as follows. First, we can endow Korea's traditional historicity and symbolism to the new uniform in form and colors. All contents of the design (in which the front side is open, the top is adjusted rightward, the rear length is shorter than the front length, comfort provided by side vents, dual collars for children's uniforms, and a belt) are adapted from the Korean traditional costume. Consequently, historicity can be endowed to the uniform. It is also confirmed that the traditional oriental philosophy including heaven and earth (天地), Yin-Yang (陰陽), and Five Elements (五行) can be endowed in the use of colors. Second, in order to project deeper historicity and symbolism to the form of the new uniform, this study proposes design modifications based on the selection as an item of Simui (深衣), a type of traditional clothing that contains a high symbolism similar to the Taekwondo uniform. It proposes giving shape to the practice of manners, the righteous life, and the straightforward mind by modifying the design of the uniform in the fish belly part of the sleeves, collars, back stitches, and side seams.
A Study of Urban Household Demand for Clothing Items by Income
Kim, Kisung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 33~45
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.33
This study investigates urban household consumption patterns for clothing items in different income cohorts through the analysis of an Almost Ideal Demand System (AIDS) model. Korea quarterly time-series statistics data for urban household expenditures from 1990 to 2013 analyzed household demand. The price and total consumption expenditure elasticities of 4 clothing items (outer wear, shoes, clothing related services and other miscellaneous clothing) for 7 income cohorts were estimated to investigate the clothing consumption patterns of different income cohorts. The study results show that the different household income cohorts have different consumption patterns for clothing items. The elastic demand of total consumption expenditures in the lowest household income cohort suggests that they consume clothing items as luxuries while other households mostly consume them as necessities. The price elasticity for all household income cohorts and clothing items (except the highest household income cohort and outer wear) was found to be elastic. The highest household income cohort had an inelastic price demand for all clothing items that implied a less sensitive clothing consumption change for the clothing price change than other households.
Attachment Transition from Suit to Casual Wear via TED Speakers' Clothing-Behavior in Different Cultural Contexts
Lee, Yoon Kyung ; Youn, Chorong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 46~58
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.46
This study investigated the difference of clothing-behavior for the same occasions in terms of a cross-cultural context. It analyzed clothing items worn by TED speakers via video at TED.com in the US, UK, France, Japan, and South Korea from October to December 2012. An analysis on the 233 videos showed considerable differences among countries. American speakers wore casual items on the top and formal wear on the bottom. Most British speakers wore the same styles on the top and the bottom outfits such as 'formal-top & formal-bottom' or 'casual-top & casual-bottom'. French speakers chose mix and match styles. Japanese and Koreans selected the same styles on the top and the bottom outfits such as 'formal-top & formal-bottom' or 'casual-top & casual-bottom'. In particular, Japanese speakers selected various casual items more than other countries' speakers. Korean senior speakers had a preference to wear more formal clothing and young people liked more casual attachments. This study found that clothing attachments differed by cultural context and generation.
The Consumption Desire for Slow Fashion
Lee, Jeong Sun ; Kwon, Hyuk Sang ; Koh, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 59~72
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.59
This study investigated slow fashion consumers from a human desire viewpoint in order to examine the psychological aspects of slow fashion consumption. First, the concept of slow fashion was defined. Second, this study reviewed the concepts of desire found in Oriental philosophies and applied them to slow fashion consumption. This process identified the fundamental desire that motivates consumers of slow fashion. Lastly, the psychological aspects slow fashion consumers were examined through a comparison of fundamental desire and external reasons given by interviewees in regards to personal motivation to purchase slow fashion products. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 10 unmarried women 25 to 37 years old with experience in buying slow fashion products. Exploratory data were classified into external reasons and fundamental reasons to derive the concept of slow fashion. First, slow fashion is defined as sustainable fashion that considers humans and nature. It also seeks to produce morally good products that transcend time and space. Second, we identified the following external reasons: social responsibility, pursuit of healthy products, and pursuit of beauty. Finally, we extracted four factors that reflected fundamental desire: Recognition Desire, Ostentation Desire, Sexual Appeal Desire, and Power Desire. Altruism was emphasized by respondents who expressed social responsibility among external reasons and the desire for recognition among fundamental reasons. However, this goodwill also originated from human desire due to the emotional healing they receive from helping others. Interviewees sought psychological benefits such as self-satisfaction and spiritual growth through slow fashion that implied an Association of slow fashion consumption with human desire. Slow fashion consumption was influenced by moral convictions as well as various desires; in addition, external reasons for slow fashion consumption could be explained by desire.
Assessment of Wear Comfort and the Development of One-piece Dresses with Persimmon Juice Dye-printed Fabrics
Park, Soon Ja ; Kang, Inhyeng ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 73~86
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.73
Persimmon juice dye-printed fabrics with printing were used for a Galot one-piece dress. The Galot dress was assessed in comparison to a white undyed one-piece dress of the same design through a wearing test conducted in a climatic chamber with an air temperature of
R.H, and 0.2m/sec air movement on 4 healthy female subjects in their 20s. The subjects went through a 30-min stable period, a 30-min exercise of walking on a
slope treadmill at 70m/min period, and a 20-min recovery period. In addition, a physiological reaction and subjective sensation were estimated. The results showed that significant differences were mostly observed from a sweating period that occurred during the latter half of the exercise. More specific results are as follows. First, skin temperature on the chest and mean skin temperature were significantly higher (p<.01) in rayon dyed sample dresses. Second, micro-humidity on the back showed a significant difference (p<.01). Both cotton and rayon persimmon juice dyed sample dresses produced lower microhumidity than their counterparts and as for cotton the difference occurred over the entire experimental period; however, it occurred after the middle of the exercise period for rayon. Third, the sweating rate on the back decreased in both cotton and rayon with persimmon juice dye but no significant difference was observed. Fourth, subjective three sensations revealed significant differences between cotton and rayon (p<.01), indicating that the subjects felt more cool, dryer and more comfortable in a cotton Galot. As described above, the analysis of physiological responses and the subjective sensation of undyed and dyed clothing shows the effect of persimmon juice dyeing. Persimmon juice dyeing also seemly increased air permeability, moisture regain and permeability facilitating body heat ventilation, as micro-humidity and sweat rate were lowered. However, this was not shown consistently in subjective responses on comfort especially when wearing rayon dresses.
Effects of Shopping Value, Positive Emotion and Urge to Buy Impulsively on E-impulse Buying for Apparel Products
Kang, Eun-Mi ; Liu, Jing ; Park, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 87~96
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.87
E-shopping is traditional method to purchase products in a modern society. Fashion products are one of the most popular product categories sold and impulsively bought online. This study examined the causal relationship of shopping value, positive emotion, urge to buy impulsively, and e-impulse buying in the context of shopping for apparel products. A self-administered questionnaire developed from the literature was administered in class to 501 female college students in Busan. AMOS 21.0 estimated the structural equation model of e-impulse buying using a correlation matrix with a maximum likelihood. The analysis of the data supported most of the predictions. The results suggested that consumer shopping values (hedonic shopping value and utilitarian shopping value) had a positive effect on positive emotion; in addition, positive emotion urge to buy impulsively directly affected the e-impulse buying of apparel products. In the structural model, e-impulse buying of consumers can be predicted by the attitudinal component (e.g., shopping values), emotional factors (e.g., enthusiastic or proud), and the urge to buy impulsively felt by young consumers. There are implications that both positive emotion and impulsive buying are important predictors for the e-impulse buying of apparel products by consumers. Moreover, the urge to buy impulsively was an important mediator to determine the e-impulse buying of apparel products. This study provides insight to retailers and researchers to understand the structural relationship of consumer characteristics and the e-impulse buying of apparel products.
3D Body Scan Data Analysis for the Slim-fit Dress Shirts Pattern Design -Focused on the 40s Male-
Shin, Kyounghee ; Suh, Chuyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 97~109
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.97
This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to
horizontal forward position, arms raised
to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm
, and arm forward
in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.
Comparison of Hwangbek Dyeability for Cotton, Silk, and Wool from Different Tree Species and Origin
Li, Longchun ; Ahn, Cheunsoon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 110~122
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.110
This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at
. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at
using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.
A Study on Style Types and Characteristics of Fashion Victims -Focus on Korean Celebrities-
Joo, Shinyoung ; Ha, Jisoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 1, 2014, Pages 123~135
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.1.123
This study classifies types of fashion victims and identifies an internal value system that works for their fashion selection. This study reviewed the definition of 'fashion victim' by tracing similar terms such as fashion terrorist, fashion loser, and worst dresser. We classified fashion styles of fashion victims into four types based on an analysis of articles that pertained to Korean celebrities' fashion and image data. The first type is the fashion style of those who dress without any consideration of body shape. The second type is the style for those who have little consideration in regards to personal image. The third type is the style of those who choose a fashion with excessive decoration. The fourth type is the style for those who use too many fashion items at the same time. Based on a consistent analysis of fashion styles, this study identified the internal value system believed to be working in fashion victims' fashion selection. This study presents three internal value system characteristics. The first is the fetishism that is revealed when fashion victims wear expensive clothes or fashion items that are believed to reveal their personal identity and social status. The second is the blindness which becomes apparent when they follow a fashion in vogue indiscriminately without considering a personal image or body shape. The third is an excessiveness shown when individuals select clothes with too many beads or feathers that are decorative and rich in volume.