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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 38, Issue 6 - Dec 2014
Volume 38, Issue 5 - Oct 2014
Volume 38, Issue 4 - Aug 2014
Volume 38, Issue 3 - Jun 2014
Volume 38, Issue 2 - Apr 2014
Volume 38, Issue 1 - Feb 2014
Selecting the target year
Exploring Fashion Trends Using Network Analysis
Park, Jisoo ; Lee, Yuri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 611~626
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.611
Reading and foreseeing fashion trends is crucial and difficult in the fashion industry due to accelerated and diversified changes in fashion trends. We use network analysis to investigate fashion trends from 2004 to 2013 in order to find the inter-relevance among fashion trends. We extracted words from fashion trend info for women's wear provided by Samsung Design Net, created a 2-mode network of seasons and trend languages, and visualized this network using NodeXl program. Fashion trends repeated a unique pattern during the period. In the first half (2004-2008), retro modern, feminine modern, and ecological modern were dominant trends in consecutive order. The years 2009-2013 witnessed distinctive fashion trends in S/S seasons and in F/W seasons. 11F/W, 12F/W and 13F/W seasons were characterized by artistic creative style. From 2010, natural style dominated S/S seasons. 10S/S and 12S/S seasons were distinguished as a calm natural style that reflected a peaceful and simple life. In 11S/S and 13S/S seasons, soft natural style emerged as a sign of increased importance of inner spirit and natural energy. A seasonal reappearance of trends was observed every two years in S/S seasons that enabled the prediction that 14S/S will see another version of natural style. A macroscopic trend for the last 10 years was represented by the keywords 'modern' and 'natural'. 'Modern' involved the past styles such as 60's, Baroque and the origin of human life. 'Natural' was connected with design elements such as material, silhouette and color. Managerial implications and future study directions are discussed based on the results.
The Effect of Vietnamese Mothers' Perception of the Korean Wave on Purchase Intention of Korean Brand Children's Wear
Hong, Keum Hee ; Son, Sue-Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 627~637
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.627
This study explored the product attributes Vietnamese mothers consider for the purchase of children's wear, the differences of product attributes between groups with different levels of conspicuous consumption, and the extent to which the Korean wave affects the purchasing behavior of children's wear brands. The results are as follows. First, the product attribute that Vietnamese mothers consider most when purchasing children's clothes is the comfort in physical activities. Fabric type and quality, sizing and fit, durability, color, child suitability, design, cutting and construction, price, fashionability, and maintenance and laundering are the other attributes (respectively) that influence the purchase of children's wear. Second, the high conspicuous consumption group considers brand, maintenance and laundering, durability, the reactions of others, and fashionability significantly more than the low conspicuous consumption group. Third, the purchase intention of Korean children's wear brands is affected by the perception of the Korean wave than the influence of the reference group or the tendency of conspicuous consumption. The results show that low prices and practicality were important considerations for children's clothing purchases by Vietnamese mothers; however, brand name and fashionability were more powerful predictors for the high conspicuous consumption group. Those with a high perception of the Korean wave also had a higher intention of Korean children's wear brand, which is indicative of the halo effect of the Korean wave. Thus, Korean children's wear brands that plan to enter the Vietnamese market should make active use of the Korean wave.
A Study on the Characteristics of the Human Figure Expressed in Late Joseon Dynasty Paintings
Chung, Yoon Ju ; Lee, Soon Jae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 638~653
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.638
The structure of noble centered social status of the late Joseon Dynasty collapsed due to the commoner's higher status and increased level of consciousness caused by the growth of commerce and agriculture. In art, the a Korean and ethnical style dominated; however, with a diversity in the depiction of human figures in portraits, Buddhist paintings, genre paintings and folklore paintings. This study examines the diversity in human figures expressed in the paintings of the late Joseon Dynasty by expanding the common aesthetic fixed to the typical Joseon style of renowned painters. The conclusion of this study is as follows. The human figure is categorized into three different types of 'realistic', 'ideal', and 'distortion' based on the aesthetic category. First, the realistic type is defined literally by its realistic and detailed depiction of noble class portraits classified as extreme type and general type. The extreme type's formative element is hypersubtlety which includes a simultaneous aesthetic of aptness and ugliness. The general type shows subtlety with aesthetic of aptness. Second, the ideal type is defined by representing the standard form of time and criteria classified as beautified type, absolute type, and dignified type. Each shows a different character of gender of femininity, androgyny, and masculinity. Third, distortion types are defined by a characteristic expression of humans by transshaping the features in various methods categorized as grotesque, abjection, friendly, rustic, and caricature type. Each shows different formative elements of bizarre, patheticness, voluptuous, inartificial, and immaturity.
Effects of Clothing Behavior and Body Image on the Quality of Life of Elderly Men
Choi, Soo Kyoung ; Chu, Mi Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 654~664
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.654
This study investigated factors that contribute to the clothing behavior and body image of elderly men, how these factors vary by demographic characteristics, and how these factors affect quality of life. The subjects were 250 elderly men selected by convenience sampling between the ages of 60 to 80 who lived in Gyeongnam province. They participated in a survey from May-June 2012. Out of the 250 participants only 227 were used to analyze the data due to the completeness of their survey. The results showed that the factors for clothing behavior were social psychological importance, conformity, economic efficiency, fashion interest, and interpersonal intention. For body image, the factors revealed were physical attractiveness, interest in appearance, and concern about weight. Differences in the clothing behavior, body image, and quality of life were indicated by the demographic characteristics of the subjects. Clothing behavior and body image of elderly men were revealed as a contributing factor towards quality of life.
Coloration Conditions of Clay Minerals on Cotton Fabrics and Analysis of Components
Jung, Jong Sun ; Song, Kyung Hun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 665~674
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.665
An analysis of the components of clay mineral before and after coloration (XRF) showed that the elements involved in coloration are Fe, Cr, and Ni. Fe accounts for 65% of coloring components on dyed fabric; in addition, Cr and Ni also affect coloring. The optimal coloration condition was to repeat the process of immersing the cotton fabric in
slurry of 8g of clay mineral to 1g cotton for 60 minutes, dry it for 24 hours and rinse three times. Especially, as the repetition of coloration increased, the
value of sample A increased from 1.0 to 2.5, and sample B increased from 1.0 to 1.6. The effect of the repeated process on coloration was significant; consequently, the rinsing and drying process were important to decrease the coloration level. It also showed excellent results in regard to color fastness to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, and antibiotic effect.
Development of Jeggings Pattern Considering Body Fit -Focus on 20-24 Year Old Females-
Lee, Kyu-Sun ; Choi, Jeong-Wook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 675~689
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.675
This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.
The Effects of Risk Perception on e-WOM in Internet Shopping of Chinese Consumers in Their 20s
Xu, Chao ; Park, Hye Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 690~704
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.690
This study examined the risk perception in internet shopping by Chinese and analyzed the effects of risk perception on internet word-of-mouth acceptance and transmission. This analysis was conducted with data collected from 373 Chinese individuals in their 20s. Data were analyzed with factorial analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, multiple regression analysis, Chi-square test, and Cronbach's
using SPSS 18.0. The results were: 1) The factor analysis of risk perception extracted four factors: fashion/social psychological risk, product risk, transaction risk, and economic risk. The cluster analysis classified them into: Group with low-risk, Group with high-risk, Group with economic risk, and Group with medium-risk. 2) Group with high-risk and Group with economic risk had a higher word-of-mouth acceptance than other groups. The Group with a high-risk had more word-of-mouth transmission than other groups. 3) It was found that when word-of-mouth was accepted, the factual information about fashion products (size and material) was most referred to, and that the overall evaluation of satisfaction and dissatisfaction was most conveyed when word-of-mouth was conveyed. 4) Internet word-of-mouth acceptance was affected by product risk, economic risk, and transaction risk. Internet word-of-mouth transmission was affected by economic risk, and fashion/social psychological risk, product risk, and transaction risk.
Influence of Youth-Pursuing on Appearance Concern and Appearance Management Behavior -Focus on Middle-Aged Women-
Jun, Ji-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 705~717
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.705
The interest and importance of appearance can be expanded by changes in social awareness about appearance, the extension of life expectancy, and the development of science, technology and technology and medicine. Especially, down-aging syndrome through a variety of mediums, amplifies consumer's interest in youth-pursing. This study discusses the relationship of youth-pursuing, appearance concern and appearance management behavior focused on the middle-aged. Data were collected from 300 females aged 40-65 in the areas of Seoul, Daejeon and Chungbuk areas. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, regression analysis, using the SPSS-WIN 20.0 program. Youth-pursuing formed social, psychological, and appearance factors. Each of these three dimensions influenced the appearance concern; consequently, appearance had the highest influence. Only appearance influenced appearance management behavior in the regression analysis of youth-pursuing and appearance management behavior. Appearance concern affected significantly appearance in the management behavior of the dimension regression analysis results for the appearance concern and appearance management behavior.
The Role of Market Orientation and Organizational Innovativeness in Enhancing the Supply Chain Agility of Korean Apparel Firms
Yoon, Taeyoung ; Koh, Ae-Ran ; Jin, Byoungho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 718~732
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.718
This study investigates the effects of two organizational variables (market orientation and organizational innovativeness) and the interaction between these two variables on supply chain agility as well as examines the moderating effect of 1) firm size and 2) the extent of global sourcing. Employing a web-based e-mail survey method, the study issued 1,320 questionnaires to South Korea apparel manufacturing companies; data from 147 completed surveys were analyzed. Market orientation, organizational innovativeness, and the interaction between the two variables positively affect supply chain agility. Firm size and global sourcing do not have any significant moderating effects on the relationship between organizational characteristics and supply chain agility. Companies with high market orientation and high organizational innovativeness have more agile supply chains than companies with only market orientation or organizational innovativeness. Firms need to effectively enhance market orientation and organizational innovativeness simultaneously to enhance supply chain agility. The lack of a moderating effect from firm size suggests that all companies should promote a greater degree of market orientation and organizational innovativeness to enhance supply chain agility regardless of firm size.
Analysis of Wearing Apparel Conditions and Clothing Preferences for Development of a Suit for Disabled Males in Wheelchairs
Lee, Jae Hyang ; Yang, Chung Eun ; Park, Gwang Ae ; Park, Jang Woon ; You, Hee Cheon ; Bae, Soo Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 733~742
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.733
This study investigated the degree of inconvenience in existing ready-made clothes and clothing preferences through a survey of 197 wheelchair-bound males in order to provide preliminary data for the development of a suit that considers the physical characteristics and requirements of the disabled in wheelchairs for improved quality of living and positive interpersonal relations. Among the survey respondents, the 30s to 40s age group was the largest at 71.6%. The most common type of disability was myelopathy at 72.6%. Also 59.9% of respondents had a job and ongoing external and social activities. As for the duration of wheelchair use, 10-20 years was the longest at 40.6%. It was found from the survey that respondents felt inconvenienced with existing clothes and changing pants was most inconvenient. Most experienced having their clothes altered due to the difficulty in finding well-fitting ones; consequently, the length of pants was the most altered item because pants are based on the size of a standing man and there exists a discrepancy in length due to the atrophy of the legs of the disabled. They preferred one style in general for clothing preferences as well as common design and details as well. However, they preferred a style with a short front and long back due to a discomfort in jacket length. A short length was the most complained about pants item.
An Exploratory Study on the Clothing Purchasing Motives of Male Consumers in Multi-brand Fashion Stores
Kim, Tae Youn ; Cho, Ahra ; Lee, Yoon-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 743~754
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.743
This study identified the internal motives for the purchase behavior of Korean male consumers in multi-brand fashion stores by conducting in-depth interviews with 8 men in their 20s and 30s. All respondents had significant experience with this type of store. Data were analyzed in an inductive way and compared with Bohemianism to interpret and described the results as a recent phenomenon of men's fashion. The five internal motives were extracted from analysis: the pursuit of freedom of expression, the counter-cultural resistance to department stores and domestic fashion brands, which tend to copy designs from international brands, the pursuit of mobility and adventure for trying to search and wear a new fashion style, the pursuit of pleasure through store experience, and the pursuit of artistic value by considering goods purchased in multi-brand fashion stores as artistic and cultural goods.
Dye Supply and Demand System and Type of Dyer in the Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Soon-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 755~768
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.755
This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.
Types and Expression Characteristics of Model Poses in Modern Fashion Photographs -Focused on Patrick Demarchelier's Fashion Photos-
Kim, Young-Min ; Kim, Jang-Hyeon ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 38, issue 5, 2014, Pages 769~782
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.5.769
This study considers the correlation between model pose and clothes in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos as well as expression characteristics. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The type of model pose in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos can be categorized into five types: maximized type of upper and lower body part, minimized type of upper and lower body part, maximized type of upper body and minimized type of lower body part, minimized type of upper body and maximized type of lower body part, basic type of upper and lower body part. In case of having examined the correlation between body movement and costume, the clothes in the model pose included in the maximization of the body were formed mainstream by silhouette, which was formed by decorative elements or full drapery. In the model poses included in the reduction of the body, the costume tended to expose many parts of the body to provide a simple or structural silhouette form. The costume was expressed in colorful form and poses assumed without body movements. The expression characteristics of the model poses in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos were sensuality, dynamicity, and simplicity. First, sensuality was expressed as feminine sensuality accompanying an erotic mood by naturally emphasizing a woman's breast or leg by reducing the body. Second, dynamicity provided a vividness to the image as if directly living and moving by highlighting the rhythmic aspect of the body. Simplicity aroused the effect of paying attention to clothes or other incidental elements rather than the image expressed by the body of a model by excluding body movement.