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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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Volume & Issues
Volume 40, Issue 4 - Aug 2016
Volume 40, Issue 3 - Jun 2016
Volume 40, Issue 2 - Apr 2016
Volume 40, Issue 1 - Feb 2016
Selecting the target year
A Study on Totemism Costume of Europe Local Festival -Based on the Symbolic Theory of C. G. Jung-
Uh, Kyung Jin ; Ha, Ji Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 1~11
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.1
Traditional costumes have evolved while reflecting the social, cultural and psychological values of the era. Costumes gain meaning by being worn that also allows their various symbolic meanings to be derived. Costumes worn in festivals by specific societies and organizations have especially apparent symbolism pertaining to their purpose. Most countries have traditional festivals that embody the country`s distinct culture, history and traditions. These festivals are acts of consciousness expressing a special meaning of the community. Costumes represent a glimpse of life and culture during a festival period; in addition, the costume`s style, color elements and decorations are expressions of community values and a distinct symbolic mechanism. Totemism (a significant element of these festivals) has been passed down for many generations. The current costumes for Totemism are distinct (compared to normal festival costumes) and embody a more symbolic meaning. This study deduces the exaggerated style, the concealment and disguise of the human body, and the pursuit of pleasure expressed in the Totemism costumes of regional European festivals. The symbolization theories of C. G. Jung and an analysis of Totemism costumes allow an understanding of their existential significance, their role as the medium between consciousness and unconsciousness, their meaning of symbolic transcendental unity, and their meaning of giving consciousness to the mind.
The Effect of the Congruity between Self-Image and Image of a Multi-Brand Store on Store Attributes and Consumer Responses
Kim, Ka Hyun ; Park, Minjung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 12~25
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.12
Based on the self-congruity theory, this study investigated how congruity between multi-brand store image and consumers` self-image affect store attributes and consumer responses. A total of 331 questionnaires were used to analyze data. The results of research were: 1) `Sophistication` as the congruity factor between store image and consumers` self-image affected `utility`, `atmosphere`, and `design` among store attribute factors. Also, `sincerity` influenced `utility` as the store attribute factor. 2) `Atmosphere` as the store attribute factor positively influenced consumers` emotional responses, and `utility` and `design` factors positively influenced consumers` cognitive responses. 3) Consumers` emotional responses had a positive impact on consumers` cognitive responses; in addition, consumers` emotional and cognitive responses had positive impacts on consumers` behavioral responses. 4) A-Land indicated higher scores on `sophistication`, `atmosphere`, and `design` factors than ABC Mart. ABC Mart had shown higher scores on `ruggedness` and `utility` factors than A-Land. This study provides practical implications to develop effective marketing strategies to manage multi-brand stores.
Korean Fashion Companies` Strategic CSR Implementation with Focus on Incorporation of Consumers` CSR Expectations
Chung, Kyunghwa ; Lee, Yuri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 26~40
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.26
The importance of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) implementation is increasing and CSR activity has become a core activity for firms. The increase on CSR activity expenditures also increases the need for strategic. When firms implement CSR strategically, firms need to consider consumers` perspectives toward CSR. This research investigated how Korean fashion companies integrate consumers` CSR expectations into CSR implementation. Through a qualitative study, we researched a firm`s consideration of consumers which are reflected in detailed procedures of CSR implementation. We conducted in-depth interviews with executives and managers in charge of CSR and found the following results. First, motivations for CSR implementation were both strategic and moral along with consumers who play a crucial role in CSR motivation. Second, firms conducted various strategic CSR activities differentiating themselves using a specific resource. Third, self-CSR evaluation was not active and structured. Few companies were collecting consumer responses to CSR activities. Last, executives and managers have difficulties to perform CSR activities due to gaps between ethical consumption consciousness and the ethical consumption behavior, measurement of CSR effect, and lack of understanding of strategic CSR. The results of our study show that firm`s consideration of consumers is insufficient despite executives and managers who strongly agree with the need for strategic CSR.
The Effect of Other Customer Perceptions on Male Customers` Store Attitude and Behavioral Response in Fashion Store
Kim, Boram ; Lee, Yuri ; Kim, Yunjeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 41~55
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.41
This study analyzed the influence of other customers` perception (similarity, physical attraction, and suitable behavior) of the fashion retail environment on male customers` store attitude and behavioral response. In addition, comparing the effect of store type, this study comprehensively provides the effect of other customers` perception in fashion retailing. In order to investigate research questions, an online survey was conducted and 220 responses were analyzed using AMOS 18.0. The results of this research were as follow. First, the dimensions of physical attraction and suitable behavior of other customers influenced toward target customer`s fashion store attitude. Second, the effect of store attitude towards the perceiver`s behavioral response was proven. Third, customers established their store attitude by other customers` physical attraction in luxury stores, while others` behavior was meaningful in SPA store. Fourth, other customer`s similarity dimension did not influence the male customers` store attitude. This study contributes to a comprehensive understanding of other customer`s effect in fashion stores by examining different store types. In addition, managers may establish a customer portfolio strategy and training based on this research.
Symbolism Expressed in Clothing of Cartoon 『Gobau』
Kang, Minjung ; Ha, Jisoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 56~68
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.56
Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men`s trousers and women`s skirt. Besides, various kinds of women`s western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.
A Study on the Fashion Planning NCS and the Way to Activate the Application of NCS to Fashion Planning Education
Kim, Saehee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 69~80
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.69
This study investigated the National Competency Standards (NCS) of fashion planning to compare the fashion planning curriculum of domestic universities and colleges with NCS as well as suggest ways to activate the application of NCS to fashion planning education. Qualitative research was employed based on references from the old and new homepages of NCS as well as fashion planning related subjects of domestic universities and colleges. The results are as follow. First, fashion planning NCS was composed of 10 competency units. Competency units were composed of competency unit elements and performance criteria. The levels of the competency units and the competency unit elements were suggested based on 8 stages. There were significant differences in the content of competency units and the level of competency units between the old version and the revised version of fashion planning NCS. Second, considerable fashion planning related subjects seemed at a higher level than the function level of recent college graduates. There were also omitted subjects which were required for recent college graduates. Third, the requirements for the reorganization of curriculums and education systems as well as the cooperation among industry, colleges, universities, and development part of NCS were suggested for the activation of NCS based education and the validation of NCS.
Moderating Effect of Luxury Value Perceptions in the Relationship between In-Store Emotions and Perceived Brand Luxury
Lee, Eun-Jung ; Kim, Hanna ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 81~96
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.81
The meaning of luxury varies by individuals. The differing luxury perceptions should influence the way individuals react to relevant marketing programs for luxury. Limited research exists on the topic despite interest in luxury segmentation and consumer-oriented values for luxury in marketplaces. Referring to the conceptual framework by Wiedmann et al. (2007), we explored the moderation role of four dimensions of luxury value perceptions (LVP; financial, functional, individual, and social dimensions), in the relationship between in-store emotion and perceived brand luxury. A total of 218 U.S. consumers participated in our online survey using a hypothetical luxury store image. The results revealed the following: First, on the relationship between felt pleasure and perceived brand luxury (PBL), the financial dimension of LVP only showed a significant moderation effect. Second, the effect of felt arousal on PBL was moderated by the financial and social dimensions of LVP. Lastly, the individual dimension of LVP only moderated the relationship between felt dominance and PBL. Theoretical and managerial implications are suggested.
Women`s Pant Pattern Design According to the Style Using 3D Body Scan Data
Yoon, Mi Kyung ; Nam, Yun Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 97~113
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.97
This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women`s pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.
Research on Uncomfortableness and Customer Needs of Life-type Protection Mask -Focused on UV Protection Mask and Dust Protection Mask-
Kang, Yeo Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 114~130
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.114
This research provides practical data to develop UV protection masks and dust protection masks. It surveyed uncomfortable factors and significant characteristics for masks. It used 653 subjects 20-79 years old and performed the research from April to May in 2014. Wearing masks at outdoor activities is not widely popular yet, but golf players, mountaineers and old people were quite interested in masks. People mainly wore a basic shape mask, but main age group of each mask shape was different. People usually prioritized the protection function and comfort of wearing over design; however, women, young generation and people attending to outdoor activities longer than 1 hour considered design quite important. People going on picnic or camping consider mask characteristics most important. Therefore, various mask shapes and protective functions should be developed to reflect consumer needs. Meanwhile, the discomfort levels of masks were not too high, but old people felt more discomfort than young people. The most discomfort factors were `other`s eye`, `distracting face movement` and `feeling of foreign object`. They also mentioned falling problem of C shape mask and short-rib shape mask, and asked for a `tighter fit` at the ear.
The Effects of Fashion Behaviors and Impression Management Behaviors on Career Success of Male Office Workers -Applying PLS Structural Equation Modeling-
Ryu, Eun Suk ; Ryu, Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 131~147
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.131
This study investigated the relationship between fashion behavior, impression management behavior, and career success. A conceptual model and hypotheses were established based on theoretical linkages between the constructs. Thereafter, empirical data were collected using a set of questionnaires. For this reason, the sample was taken from 720 office workers` who worked at 14`s Korea Enterprise, 697 of which was used for an empirical analysis (sample: men over 30 years of age and more than three years continuous service). This study conducted an exploratory factor analysis and confirmatory factor analysis for the validity test. Cronbach`s alpha test is used for the reliability test. Moreover, PLS structural equation modeling (SEM) was employed to test hypothesized relationships in the conceptual model (SPSS 20.0 window/Smart PLS 3.0). This study shows that the proposed model is reasonably fit to the actual data. The following results were obtained from the analyses. First, fashion behavior and impression management behavior is positively related to career success. The result shows that economics of the fashion behaviors sub-types were statistically more significant to influence career success. The self-focused of the impression management behavior sub-types were more than statistically significant to influence career success. This finding has great implications to understand self-management behavior and the career success of male office workers.
Effect of Self-Image Congruence, Clothing Preference and Reference Price on Payment Intention Price
Chung, Ihn Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 148~157
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.148
In this study, the notion of payment intention price was introduced and examined in relation with self-image congruence, clothing preference and two types of reference price: expected price and fair price. One hundred samples of female collegiate students participated in the group survey and responded to the instrument including variables of clothing image evaluation, clothing preference, reference price, payment intention price toward a one-piece dress as the stimulus, and ideal self-image perception. Descriptive statistics, correlations, and regressions were applied on data analysis. The results were as follow. Payment intention price was determined by clothing preference and fair price, and the explaining power of fair price was greater than clothing preference. One confirmatory path was observed that self-image congruence effects clothing preference, and then clothing preference effects payment intention price. The other confirmatory path was from expected price to fair price and fair price to payment intention price.
A Study on TV Historical Drama Costumes Design after 2000s
Chae, Keum Seok ; Kim, Eun Kyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 158~170
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.158
This study analyzes historical drama costumes as a domain of popular culture through an examination of the changing process, factors, and design characteristics of historical drama costumes according to trend changes in historical dramas after the 2000s. Public interest in Korean traditional clothing has grown due to the historical drama fever. Research results are as follows. First, historical dramas are divided into: authentic historical dramas, popular dramas, and fusion dramas. Historical drama costumes show characters` status and roles to help viewers become absorbed in dramas and increase understanding the historical periods and knowledge. Second, the characteristics of TV historical drama costumes (according to changes of the historical dramas according to 2000) brought diversification as they are diversified by period, genre, and character and costumes which are suitable for them additionally resurfaced. Third, as for the design characteristics by type in TV historical costume after 2000s, authentic historical dramas` design was done by comparatively in-depth historical research based on historical materials to help public understand the past. Popular historical drama costumes are based on history, but the forms of costumes were emphasized (or exaggerated); in addition, colors, subjects, and patterns were modified to emphasize image beauty, dramas` atmosphere, and characters by reflecting intention. The fusion of historical dramas` costumes attracted the attention of the public about Korean designs that harmonized tradition with modernity to actively reflect current trends in past periods and show new types of creative design.
Bodice Pattern Development of the Slim-fit Dress Shirt for Middle-aged Males Using 3D Body Scanning Data
Suh, Chuyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 171~187
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.171
The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was `C/2+5.5cm`, and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at `C/12`, while the width of the front neck was set to `C/12+1.5cm`. For the armhole depth, we added `C/4+2cm`, and `0.5cm and 1.5cm` for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.
The Present State and Major Courses of Clothing Related Departments in Specialized High Schools
Yoo, Hye Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 1, 2016, Pages 188~201
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.188
A Clothing Department is a major fields of specialized vocational high schools. Specialized high schools with clothing related departments are located in Seoul (4 schools), Busan (2), Incheon (3), Daejeon (1), Ulsan (1), Kangwondo (1), Kyungkido (1), Kyungsangbukdo (1) and Chungcheongbukdo (1). In these 15 specialized high schools, 92 classes of clothing departments are run by 72 clothing teachers with 2,459 students enrolled. The range of object of this study is 15 clothing related departments of specialized high schools and their titles are department of Fashion Design, Clothing Design, Clothing Art, Multi Fashion Design, Fashion Textile Design, and Global Design. They were investigated by literature from previous research and education statistics from the Korean Educational Development Institute (KEDI). Websites such as `School Information`, `portal site of Specialized High School`, `Ministry of Education-Education Statistics and Information` were also searched. The homepages of specialized high schools with clothing department were also investigated respectively. In this study, current scale, employment rate of graduates, major courses, scale of teachers of clothing major of clothing department of specialized high school were analyzed. In 2015, employment rate and college enrollment rate of vocational high schools were 46.6% and 36.6% respectively, whereas employment rate and college enrollment rate of clothing departments four specialized High Schools were 39.9% and 45.8% respectively. The number of major courses of clothing departments are 12-15, and the main subjects of the curriculum were Fashion Design, Construction of Western Clothing, Construction of Korean Clothing, Textile Materials and Mangement and Computer Graphics. Major courses consist of 90-108 weekly lesson-hours for 6 semesters. Thanks to government projects to encourage specialized high schools, the educational environment has improved in areas of practice room equipment, industry connections, field training, internship, and scholarship funds. However, despite government projects to encourage education at specialized high schools, there is a need for a more flexible education system to enhance student creativity at specialized high schools.