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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 40, Issue 3 - Jun 2016
Volume 40, Issue 2 - Apr 2016
Volume 40, Issue 1 - Feb 2016
Selecting the target year
Analysis of Properties of Fashion Trading Areas Using Network Analysis Technique
Kim, Yunjeong ; Lee, Joeun ; Lee, Yuri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 203~220
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.203
This research analyzed characteristic changes in trading areas and the success factors of popular fashion trading areas (Garosu-gil, Dongdaemun, and Itaewon). This research adopts a social network analysis method to semantically analyze trading areas. Articles on the three fashion trading areas were located through KrKwic software to extract keywords and calculate word frequency. Keywords with high frequency were placed through NodeXL software to identify relationships among keywords. Researchers created a network of relationships among trading areas and between past and present of trading areas to analyze and visualize. In the past (2008-2009), the trading areas of Dongdaemun, Garosu-gil and Itaewon were placed horizontally with a limited number of shared keywords between them. However, the three trading areas retain diverse rage of keywords and an organic realtionships five years later (2013-2014). Compared to the past, all three areas see the emergence of relevant fashion keywords such as 'designer', 'design', 'brand'. Additional cultural keywords such as 'culture/art/performance', 'exhibition', and 'event' have commonly appeared and imply that related industries are an important factor as well. Fashion companies that consider evaluating areas for a new store opening need to understand the trading area characteristics and select the most suitable area. In addition, it is necessary to equip the trading area with basic fashion elements as well as relavant industry when the government tries to develop fashion trading areas.
Analysis of the Current State and the Curriculum of Beauty Related Higher Education Programs in Korea
Li, Longchun ; Ahn, Cheunsoon ; Narantuya, Lkhagva ; Park, Seonhwa ; Zhao, Xue ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 221~239
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.221
This research investigates the current state of beauty related curriculums and departments of undergraduate and graduate programs in Korea. The results also compared beauty related programs at selected overseas universities. A comprehensive list of 4-year universities with beauty related undergraduate and/or graduate programs were surveyed using the KCUE University Entrance Information (http://www.adiga.kr) site provided by the Korean Council for University Education. Information on the name of the department, curriculum, and year of foundation were obtained from the websites of individual universities. There were 58 universities which have beauty related higher education programs; 43 undergraduate programs, 12 graduate programs, and 40 special graduate programs. The number of special graduate departments were 3.7 times larger than the graduate departments; in addition, 43.9% of the special graduate departments were located in the Seoul/Gyeonggi/Incheon area. The curriculums of beauty related 4-year undergraduate departments were focused on the 'Beauty care service' area (50.2%), whereas the curriculums of graduate departments were focused on the 'Cosmetic science' area (40.8%). In case of the special graduate programs, there was little difference between the 'Beauty care service' area (24.4%) and the 'Cosmetic science' area (27.7%). Beauty related programs of overseas universities were mostly focused on cosmetic science with some universities specialized in the marketing aspect.
Effects of 3D Compression Pants and Kinesio Taping on Isokinetic Muscular Function of Leg During Knee Joint Flexion Motion
Choi, Jiyoung ; Park, Heegeun ; Lee, Wanglok ; Hong, Kyunghi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 240~257
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.240
This study determines the effect of 3D compression pants and Kinesio taping on muscular function of the leg during knee joint flexion and extension. Eight males participated in the experiment, wearing basic pants (BP), Kinesio taping on bare skin (KT), 3D compression pants with (KTP) and without Kinesio taping (CP). The test protocol for isokinetic muscular function was composed of four sets at three angular velocities (60, 180,
) using Cybex 660. Peak torque and work per repetition of the lower limbs of eight males were analyzed from the result of Cybex. Agility and power of the subjects were examined from side step and sergeant jump. Peak torque, average power, work per repetition, force decay time of subjects wearing CP and KTP were significantly better than BP or KT, especially at low angular velocity of
. The time to generate peak torque of subjects wearing BP was the longest, while the force-decay time of BP was the shortest. The application of Kinesio tape on skin did not increase muscle peak torque, work and power, but did shorten the time to generate peak torque.
Flagship Store Experience of Luxury and SPA Brands -Effect on Store Emotion and Loyalty-
Park, Kyungae ; Kim, Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 258~272
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.258
This study estimated a structural model for examining causal relationships among flagship store experiences, store emotion and loyalty, and to compare the structural models between luxury and fast fashion SPA brands. A total of 416 responses were collected from consumers who had experience with a variety of luxury and SPA flagship stores. Findings confirmed that flagship store experience consisted of four factors, such as sensory, affective, intellectual and behavioral experiences. Sensory and behavioral experiences had positive effects on store emotion that influenced loyalty. Affective and cognitive experiences influenced loyalty. All aspects of experiences explained store emotion or loyalty for luxury flagship stores; however, two of experiences (i.e., sensory and affective) were important to determine store emotion or loyalty for SPA flagship stores. The study discussed managerial implications for fashion brands to develop and manage flagship stores.
Analysis of Pattern Shape and Types for Non-woven Protective Coverall on Domestic Market
Moon, Jeehyun ; Jeon, Eunkyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 273~286
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.273
Protective coveralls are very uncomfortable to work in comparison to ordinary top and bottom separated clothing. A pattern maker has to consider the size of the human body and human motion range when designing protective coverall patterns. It is difficult to produce well-fitted coveralls because of the lack of readymade patterns despite the increased need for protective coveralls at various jobs. Patterns are decomposed by unsewing 18 products in the domestic market to provide the fundamental information on developing patterns for protective coveralls. The characteristics and differences of pattern types are compared after grouping patterns with information taken from the analysis of the shapes and measurements of patterns from the acquired patterns. The results of the analysis showed that on-market protective coveralls were less curved but much linear when compared to ordinary clothing patterns; however, the breasts and crotch circumferences were very loose and bulky, which is quite different from the other all-in one style working clothes. For the pattern shapes, patterns are classified into waistline-seamed and bustline-seamed types. The result of the hierarchical cluster analysis with 27 measurement variables were classified into four groups. Types by shape and measurements were related to each other; therefore, we expect the information of each type to be used in developing protective clothing patterns.
The Effect of the Fashion Product Classification Method in Online Shopping Sites
Han, Seo-Young ; Cho, Yunjin ; Lee, Yuri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 287~304
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.287
This study examines the influence of product classification standards and structure on user perception as well as their attitude towards online shopping sites. The causal relationships of variables are also examined. The analysis was based on an online survey with 247 responses. Four types of internet shopping sites were developed and used as a stimulus. The results of the mean comparison analysis indicated that perceived variety, information overload, perceived shopping value and attitude towards the site varies significantly with product classification standards and structure. There was also of a marginally significant interaction between the classification standard and structure on perceived variety and information overload. The causal relationship analysis revealed that perceived variety positively influenced hedonic and utilitarian shopping value. However, information overload had a negative effect on hedonic and utilitarian shopping value. Both the hedonic and utilitarian shopping value positively influenced attitudes towards the sites. This study demonstrates that classification method influences customer perception and attitude. It offers interesting insights on a product classification method as a strategic tool for online shopping.
Wearing Performance and Comfort Property of PTT/Wool/Modal Air Vortex Yarn Knitted Fabrics
Kim, Hyunah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 305~314
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.305
This paper investigated the applicable possibility of PTT and wool staple fibers to the air vortex system as high quality yarns for a high emotional and comfort garment. It was found that the tactile hand of vortex yarn knitted fabrics was harsher than ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was observed that formability and sewability of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics seemed worse than ring and compact yarns due to low tensile and compressional resilience and high bending and shear hysteresis of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics. It revealed that wicking and drying rates of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were better than ring and compact yarns; in addition, the heat keepability of vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than ring and compact yarns due to low thermal conductivity and max heat flow rate (
). Any difference of thermal shrinkage between air vortex and ring yarn knitted fabrics was not shown, but pilling characteristic of air vortex yarn knitted fabric was superior. However, it was shown that wicking, drying, thermal property and pilling characteristics of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were superior due to air vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and periodical and fasciated twists in the sheath part of the yarns.
A Research on the Communication Characteristics of Fashion Film -Focused on Chanel, Prada, Kenzo, Alexander Wang-
Huh, Yeeun ; Chun, Jaehoon ; Ha, Jisoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 315~329
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.315
century is the age when the revolution of digital technology enables two-way communication and when emotional values are emphasized. Thus, it exerts influence on the fashion industry and fashion communication. Along with fashion shows, advertising and displays, many fashion brands have increased the use of fashion films. For that reason, this study examines the characteristics of fashion films made by fashion brands, based on the frame work of persuasion communication. For the research, literature reviews and internet website research were done and films of Chanel, Prada, Kenzo and Alexander Wang were analyzed. The definition and types of fashion films were redefined as terminology varied throughout previous studies prior to analyzing each case. As a result, a fashion film would be redefined as 'a digital image which a fashion brand publishes to consumers for the promotion of brand comprehension'. Also, five fashion film types, 'short film', 'campaign film', 'animation film', 'brand film' and 'show film' were redefined. The analysis provided three communication characteristics: reliability, engagement and intuition. First, reliability is attained when a fashion brand (sender) delivers brand message to consumers (receiver) consistently and unitedly. Second, engagement is attained when the type of fashion film (channel) delivers creative image features such as format, music, video technique to attract consumers' interest. Lastly, intuition is attained when a fashion brand (sender) delivers a message akin to brand identity and deepens consumers' understanding. In addition, this study tried to identify the unique usage tendency of brands that could serve as practice guidelines for other fashion brands.
Analysis of Body Size and Characteristics for Petite-size -Focused on Women Aged 18 to 34-
Lee, Jeong Yim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 330~341
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.330
This study suggested criterion for Petite-size and analyzed the body size and characteristics that were proper to manufacture clothing for Korean Petite-size women aged 18 to 34. It also analyzed size information about pattern making for Petite-size women through a comparison of the size and proportion of Petite-size with Regular-size. The criterion of Petite-size was decided in consideration of the distribution and perception of stature; subsequently, the stature range for Petite-size was defined as under 157.5cm. Body size and proportion of Petite-size were analyzed through calculating the mean from 25 to 75 percentiles of a Petite-size stature range. The Petite-size of this study was compared to KS Petite and total subjects through One way ANOVA. It was confirmed that the Petite-size of this study had body characteristics like KS Petite; however, Petite-size was larger in height and vertical length than KS Petite. The significant differences between Petite-size and Regular-size were identified in the same bust girth range, that required a revised calculation formula for pattern making that would be proper for Petite-size. It is expected that the Body size and proportion could be utilized as a reference for manufacturing or purchasing Petite-size clothing. The result of this study will contribute to enhance the fit satisfaction for Petite-size women aged 18 to 34.
Clothing Norms & Conflict of 20·30s Women in Work Place -Focus on Types of Work Places-
Kim, Tae Eun ; Ha, Jisoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 342~352
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.342
This study examined the fashion culture of 20-30s working women through clothing norm relationships in the workplace. A literature research was conducted along with qualitative research, in-depth interviews in order to understand the domestic working environment and fashion culture such as lifestyle and consumer culture characteristics of 20-30s working women. The results were: First, it showed that the increased number of members having various inclinations caused subcultures through an increase of women's economic activities and transition to a knowledge-information society in domestic work places that changed into a business casual that recognized employees' autonomy and diversity. Second, in the working place, clothing norms coexist as stipulated by statutes, company rules, and official documents as well as others implied by experiences of sanction against members. Workplace closing norms are classified into norms of exposure that draw attention to clothes and casual clothes. Third, it showed that factors pressuring clothing norms are classified as external pressures and by spontaneous self-censorship that cause conflict and confusion with working women's fashion according to the degree of pressure. Two kinds of pressure by others (or types of departments and members) were observed.
Rock Music Inspiration Represented in Hedi Slimane's Menswear Design
Lee, Hae-Dong ; Suh, Sung-Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 353~364
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.353
This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.
Sleeve Head Development for an Aesthetic Appearance of a Jacket Sleeve
Park, Youngja ; Jang, Jeongah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 365~381
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.365
This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of
and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm,
and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.
Meaning Transfers Depending on Personality Type -Focusing on TV Beauty Programs-
Ahn, Suh Young ; Kim, Yirang ; Koh, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 382~396
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.382
This study explores 1) the cultural meanings that television beauty programs deliver, 2) the ways consumers consume TV beauty programs, and 3) the differences in the meaning of television beauty programs according to personality types. An Enneagram was used to define different personality types. The Enneagram explained personalities according to underlying core energies and was useful to grasp consumer behavior. Exploratory data were collected through in-depth interviews of fifteen women in their twenties who watched television beauty programs regularly. The personality types were classified according to three core energies: head-centered, heart-centered, or body-centered. The results were: First, television beauty programs were celebrity-focused, product-focused, and consumer-focused. They were found to help consumers improve their appearance in an appearance-oriented contemporary society by sharing appearance management information. Second, consumers consumed the products from television beauty programs as well as sought a "beautifully transformed self". Third, cultural meanings moved first from a culturally-constituted world to consumer goods through television beauty programs that then moved these goods to the individual consumer through symbolic consumption behavior along with grooming rituals, evaluation practices, appreciation practices, and accounting practices. Symbolic consumption behavior differed with personality type: heartcentered consumers transferred meaning through grooming rituals and appreciation practices, head-centered consumers through evaluation practices, and body-centered consumers through accounting practices.
Improving Creative Design Skills -The Effects of Past Experience on Apparel Design Education-
Lee, Yoon Kyung ; DeLong, Marilyn ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 40, issue 2, 2016, Pages 397~408
DOI : 10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.2.397
This study explores factors that influence the development of creative ideas among apparel design students. This research is to understand how past experience (especially in art and design), influences the development of creative ideas in apparel design. The interaction between two related elements of student experience and work process is explored. A design process model based on Wallas's (1926) creative problem-solving process and Koberg and Bagnall's (1974) design process was used in the context of a beginning-level apparel design course comprised of Korean and Chinese students at a university in Seoul, South Korea. The results show that students with past experience in art and/or design performed differently than inexperienced students when faced with the same stimulation. Significant differences were also observed between experienced and inexperienced students in the development of creative ideas.