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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 8, Issue 3 - Dec 1984
Volume 8, Issue 2 - Aug 1984
Volume 8, Issue 1 - Apr 1984
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing Procedure of Carthamus Flower
Koh Kyong-shin ; Bae Woo-shik ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 1~7
Traditionally dyeing fabrics with pigment extracted from carthamus flower was a popular method of obtaining red color in Korea. Such a method existed in several countries throughout the world before the synthetic dyestuff was developed. However, the traditional procedures of using natural products in obtaining colored materials are completely forgotten in modern Korea. The details of dyeing procedures fare not well documented in literature, either. In this study the method of extracting and dyeing with carthamus flower is reconstructed from Korean literature and actually carried out in laboratorf. The reconstructed method is compared with those of Japan, China, France, and Egypt, and the scientific basis of such an ancient tradition is discussed. Carthamus contains two kinds of coloring components : yellow carthamin and red carthamone. Water-soluble carthamin is first extracted by repeated washing and is usually used for the initial soaking procedure. Then carthamone is extracted in alkali solution by adding ashes of dried plants such as carthamus stalks and bean hull. Finally the solution of carthamone is made acidic by adding schizandra juice for dyeing on fabrics.
A Study on Clothing Satisfaction Determinants -according to the location-
Hong Geum Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 9~17
This study was designed to determine some of the socioeconomic and social-psychological determinants of homemker's clothing satisfaction according to location(urban, rural). Multiple regression analysis, t-test, ore-way ANOVA, and Duncan's test were employed to analyze the data. The Results were: 1. Social-psychological variables more influenced on the homemaker's satisfaction with her clothing than socioeconomic variables without the difference of location. 2. There was a difference in stepwise diecending order of importance according to location. 3. Social-psychological variables were influenced by socioeconomic variables, expecially in rural location. 4. There were differences in clothing satisfaction, social-psychological variables and socioe-conomic variables according to location.
The Emergence of
and it's Costume in 1920's
Cho Kyu Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 19~30
There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style(
, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.
A Study on Dan-Ryong
Lim Jae Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 31~42
This paper is a research on the origins and the developing process of
centering on the change of its form. From the beginning of A. D era Central Asia had played the important role of a traffic route connecting China and its western adjacent world. Through this route
was introduced into China (South-North Dynasty era). The form of
in early period was Ban-Gum-Po (Open-collared costume that turn down the collar to the outside), and it could be worn close-collared or open-collared. From the fact that the people who wore
in early period were mainly Iranian and that it was also worn by lower class like a waiting maid, it can be said that
was not the costume of Han race. In early period the motif of the inside of collar was Persian style, and the people of central Asia was mostif Iranian. In short,
was the costum of the people lived in the adjacent world west of China, particulary Iranians. The form of
changed from Ho-Bok to Ban-Gum-Po owing to the differences in climate. In conclusion,
originated in Ho-Bok ana was introduced into the world west of china by the movement of Horrse-riding Race. Then its form was changed owing to the factors like climate, natural and cultural features, and consepuently it was introduced into China by way of Centeral Asia. In China it was settled as
through the ages of T'ang dynasty, Sung dynasty, Ming dynasty.
A Study on the Relationship Between Clothing Behaviors and General Values, Socio-Economic Backgrounds, for A Group of Male Adults in Seoul
Lee Sun Hwa ; Lim Sook Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 43~56
The purpose of this present study is not only to investigate mutual relationship between general values and clothing behaviors, but to analyize the differences in clothing behaviors in view of socio-economic backgrounds, such as professions, social classes, educational levels, monthly income, etc. For the measurement of the general values, a total of 45 questions were made use of from both part I and part II of 'The study of General Values' jointly developed by Allport-Vernon-Lindzey, while for the measurement of the clothing behaviors were used questions selected from 'The clothing variables Inventory' developed by Creekmore and from those previously used in our country for the same purpose. Data were obtained from 460 Persons and the selected sample was composed of 238 Persons from the upper class and of 222 persons from the lower class. The former class is mainly represented by government officials, doctors, company directors, professors, while the latter by factory workers, clerks, drivers. Analysis of the data in this present study reached its conclusions as follows ; 1. Among the general values valiables, the selected group in this study ranked, theoretical values' first, 'political values' 'econmic values', 'social values', aesthetic values', 'religious values' in that order, and also among the clothing behaviors variables it ranked in the following order ; economy' 'modesty' 'aesthetic' 'conformity' 'status symbol'. 2. A significant relationship between general values and clothing behaviors was found as follows ; there are negative relationships between 'theoretical values' and 'aesthetic', 'status symbol', between 'aesthetic values' and 'conformity', between 'social values' and 'status symbol', between 'political values' and 'conformity', on the one; there are positive relationships between political values' and 'status symbol', between religious values' and 'aesthetic', on the other, 3. In view of profession, it was found that a group of company directors placed the most importance upon 'status symbol', a group of factory workers upon 'economy', a group of drivers upon 'conformity' among the clothing behaviors. In light of social classes, 'economy' was given a high priority by the lower class, and 'status symbol' by the upper class, respectively. Considering educational levels, it was found that the highly educated class placed more emphasis on 'status symbol' and the lower educated class showed their preference to 'economy'. In view of monthly pay, 'conformity' was given a top priority by the middle class, and 'status symbol' by the upper class. 4. As a result of investigating the influence that one's age and marriage effect on clothing behaviors, significant differences were found among the three clothing motivations of 'aesthetic', modesty', 'status symbol'.
A Study on Some Female Ceremonial Robes (Jangsam and Sooboro etc.) of the Choson Dynasty
Kim Myoung Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 57~65
This is to study some female court costumes, Jamgsam and Sooboro etc. (장삼, 수보노), which seem to had been used as ceremonial robes. There is no remaines, and only a little written materials can be used. The Kook-Chang-Dogam Eui Gues(국장도감의구) give us some know ledges on the shapes, materials, embroideries and the usages of them. After surveying the provisions of the Eui-Gues, Auther arrived at conclusions as follow; 1. Jangsam(장삼) set is the counterpart of the Myunbok(면복) set. 2. Sooboro(수보노), worn over the Sang(상), is short, divided into three parts from the middle of the length, and the peonies(목단) are embroidered at the bottom of the three parts. 3. Jangsam(장삼) is accompanied by susik(수식), which seems to be a kind of headband, and a pair of gloves(수의).
A Study on the Structural Conditions and the Compressional Properties of Wool Fabrics
Shin Kwang Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 67~71
This study has been carried out to investigate the differences of compressional properties in various wool fabrics which have different structural conditions in composing ratio of wool fabric, count of material yarn and cloth count of fabric. The result of the study are summarized as follows ; 1. The wool fabrics woven with lower with lower count yarn are superior to those woven with higher count yarn in the property of compression and resiliance of compression. 2. All wool fabrics are superior to polyester/wool blended fabrics in the property of compression and inferior in the linearity. 3. In general as the cloth count of fabrics increases, the percentage of compression decrease and the linearity increases proportionally in wool fabrics.
A Study on the Subcutaneous Fat Thickness and Clothing Weight
Jeong Woon Seon ; Choi Jeong Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, volume 8, issue 3, 1984, Pages 73~79
The purpose of the study is to obtain the basic data of the proper clothing weight according to the subcutaneous fat thickness. This study was done in April and October, and the subjects were 295 male and female college students. Results were as follows: 1. In the case of female students in April, there was no correlation between the subcutaneous fat thickness and the total clothing weight. But there was low negative correlation between the subcutaneous fat thickness and the upper and under clothing weight. 2. In the case of female students in October, there was low negative correlation between the subcutaneous fat thickness and the total, upper, outer clothing weight. 3. In the case of male students in October, there was no correlation between the subcutaneous fat thickness ana the clothing weight.