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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 1, Issue 4 - Dec 1997
Volume 1, Issue 3 - Oct 1997
Volume 1, Issue 2 - Jun 1997
Volume 1, Issue 1 - Feb 1997
Selecting the target year
A Study on Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel - Focusing on her Fashion Business -
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 1~18
The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.
A Relationship Between Fashion Image Types and Design Factors(I)
Kim, Il-Boon ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 19~34
The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.
A Study on the Conditions of Apparel Products of Stretch Material(I)
Park, Jin-Young ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 35~44
The purpose of this study is to the processes and quality of local women's apparel production using the stretch fabric and to address the problems related to production in order to provide useful data for producing competitive apparels. The result of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. Results of surveying the process for raw materials and notions indicated that most of the workers were ignorant of the properties of stretch fabrics. And most factories were stacking the stretch fabrics across improperly, while being aware of the properties of the fabrics through their experiences or in-company test. 2. The major problem involving spreading fabrics was the uneven tension, followed by static electricity, overlap and warp twist. The problems involving the cutting work were melting of the fabric by cutter and difference of size between upper and lower parts. 3. Most of the businesses were not tempering the fabric before and after its linking works due to lack of working space, short delivery time, ignorance and etc. The majority of the sample businesses were operating their cutters at the speed of 3,000 rpm or higher, which suggests a poor technological guidance.
A Study on the Military Fashion - Focusing on the Women's Fashion After the 1960s-
Kim, Ji-Young ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 45~59
This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.
A Study on the Sale Conditions of the Current Brassiere Products - Focusing on the Sale of Brassiere for the Elderly Women -
Park, Eun-Mee ; Kim, Young-Sook ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 60~70
The purpose of this study is to survey the sales of brassieres positively those of elderly women's (aged 50 or older) ones in particular through 72 sales outlets and thereby, in order to present the more comfortable brassiere models which can serve to reinstate elderly women's constitution and provide the useful basic data to brassiere makers and distributors for their business. The results of this survey and the suggestions therefrom can be summarized as follows; 1) Brassieres usually sell at 10,000-20,000 wons, which allows for 15% or more margin rate. Brassieres are disposed through bargain sales once or twice every year where their price are discount 10% or higher. Meanwhile, the majority of the brassieres distributors maintain more than 15% stock rate. The accumulated stocks are primarily disposed through return to makers or bargain sales. About 15% of the brassieres sold are returned by consumers to distributors to be replaced. 2) About a half of distributors operate some or other types of sales education programs. Most of these distributors feel that their educational program have been effective which suggests the effectiveness of sales educational program. On the other hand, 83.3% of the distributors operate in-house repair shops, while the absolute majority of them brief their customers on how to wear brassieres or clean them. 3) Because elderly women's understanding of brassieres sizes is very poor, they tend to ask help of the 'sales people about their sizes before purchasing and proper one personally. In other words, it has been disclosed that old women respond positively to seller's recommendation for their brassiere sizes. 4) It has been found that the brasseries sizes purchased by old women most are. 85A, 90A and 85B in their order, which suggests that the most popular size for under bust circumference is 85~90cm, while their primary cup size is "A". 5) The type of brasseries favored most by elderly women is the "full-cup" type, while their most favorite brassiere design is a soft and simple one. The colors preferred most by them are white, beige and pink in their order. 6) When being consulted by elderly women, sales people experience various difficulties due to their poor understanding of sizes and complaint about prices. Lastly, it has been found through this survey that elderly women want to see some sales promotion material featuring their brassiere sizes and their production arid ask the brasseries makers to produce more diverse brasseries sizes.
A Study on Customer Patronage Motives of Females Aged 20 to 29 for Fashion Specialty Stores and Purchasing Behavior - Focusing on Fashion Specialty Store Charge Card Owners -
Lee, Sang-Eun ; Chung, Sung-Jee ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 71~81
The purpose of the study was to identify customer patronage motives of female aged 20 to 29 for fashion specialty stores and purchasing behavior and make comparison of patronage motives and purchasing behavior according to patronage groups as determined by level of patronizing fashion specialty stores. The subjects were females aged 20 to 29, owned at least one fashion speciality store charge card, and resided in Seoul. A questionnaire was developed by the researcher and distributed to 450 females. A sample of 409 females responded to the questionnaire. Frequency count and percentage, factor analysis, Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) and Tukey's test were used for statistical analysis. The respondents were classified into three groups (high, middle, low patronage groups) according to the level of patronizing fashion specialty stores. In patronage motives, the high patronage group rated store attributes, service and merchandise assortment important. The middle patronage group considered merchandise assortment and convenience of shopping and payment important. The low patronage group regarded service important. In buying behavior, the high patronage group showed a strong orientation of planned purchase and impulse buying by merchandise. The middle patronage group had significantly a strong orientation of impulse buying by sales promotion. The low patronage group showed a strong orientation of planned purchase.
A Study on the Fashion Communicating of The East and The West
Chun, Hei-Jung ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 82~94
The purpose of this study is to focus on the fashion communicating of the East and the west. For this purpose, the study will analyze the Visions of the East in Western Dress has long expressed an intense multiculturalism. This study is realized that clothing has served to consolidate more then to segregate. While never losing the characteristics of its place of origin, clothing has shown itself a reading assimilated object portability and ephemerality promote investigation, at the very least. Eastern ideas of textile, design, construction, and utility has been realized again as a positive contribution to the culture of the West. The East offers a larger concept in alternative to the Western propensity for tailoring. In giving primacy to the textile, Eastern dress emphasizes the flat terrain of cloth, the looping and Wrapping of the garment, and the integrity of the untailored textile. There values, antithetical to postmedieval Western dress, have offered a paradigm of dressing and dressmaking to the West that has been sporadically Influential, and notably so in our time.
A Study on the Silhouette of Men's Jackets by Changing Draft
Hur, Dong-Jin ; Kwak, Youn-Shin ;
Fashion business, volume 1, issue 3, 1997, Pages 95~102
This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.