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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2007
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Dec 2007
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Sep 2007
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jul 2007
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Jun 2007
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2007
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Costura and Color Image of the Movie
- focusing on Scottie, Madeleine, Judy -
Park, Hye-Jun ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 1~14
The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie"Vertigo". Firstly, looking into the clothing style and the color image of the characters expressed in the movie, Scottie who had the physical limitation had phobia of height, and he was expressed with the gray color to show his lethargic feeling from his physical limitation. And, after the death of Madeleine, it expressed his sense of loss and depressed mind through the blue color. The comparison of green and red color that was used to link the two characters in Madeleine and her substitution, Judy, mystified her, and the image of dreamy Madeleine has been inscribed to Scottie. In addition, the green color expressed her unstable mind. The clothing expression of Judy is expressed with her unstable mind through the detailed clothing, unlike Madeleine. And, the black color expressed the false identity of her and the Madeleine image of his own for Scottie. The type of clothing is expressed in separates suit and overcoat that are representative ones in 1950s, and black dress with the square neckline and others expressed the silence on conspiracy of Gavin and the false identity of her. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Scottie and Madeleine. The blue color image for Scottie was shown to be as space for death and the green image for Madeleine as a fantasy.
Lower Body Analysis for Pattern Design of Elderly Men's Slacks
Shim, Boo-Ja ; Suh, Chu-Yeon ; Lee, So-Young ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 15~34
This study held a questionnaire for men in their 60s or above to analyze the market research of slacks, understand the characteristics of their lower body types, and provide the basic data for the slacks pattern-making fitting the body types of senior citizens. The findings are as follows. According to the results of a questionnaire, elderly men preferred order-made slacks for better fitness, but they favored ready-made owing to the matter of prices. In particular, the girth of waist was the most considered when purchasing. However, as most customers tended to repair slacks length and the waist part, their unsatisfaction with sizes was rather high. In body measurements, elderly men had higher variable coefficients or more individual differences in the items of thickness and angles than in those of height, length, and girth. Factor analysis revealed 5 front and 6 side factors. According to the results of front-side somatotype analysis, pimento-flat, trapezoid-flat, and bent-flat types require narrower pattern designs in down-upper width than the middle-aged class. In addition, pimento-protruded hip and straight-jar types need to be designed in the same amount as in the middle-aged class. Based on the questionnaire results, down-upper length as 1cm above real dimensions was analyzed to have superior sense of wearing.
Comparative Analysis of Jacket Pattern and Wearing Evaluation for Pattern Design of Men's Fitted Jacket
Shim, Boo-Ja ; Lee, Eun-Ji ; Suh, Chu-Yeon ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 35~50
The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.
Physical Property of Hair Fiber Treated with Chitosan
Kim, Kyung-Sun ; Jeon, Dong-Won ; Kim, Jong-Jun ; Ahn, Byung-Tae ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 51~63
Chitosan, a natural cationic macromolecular material, has been known for its moisturizing and healing effect due to the coating action based on strong ionic bonding when the chitosan is treated on hair strands. In this study, the acidic aqueous chitosan solution was prepared to treat healthy hair, and damaged hair due to bleaching, relatively thin hair and thick hair specimens. The chitosan treatment effect was reviewed by comparing spectrophotometric and mechanical characteristics of the chitosan treated and untreated specimens. Electrostatic voltage was somewhat reduced after the chitosan treatment. Smoothly coated surface was observed, in the SEM images, especially for damaged hair specimens. The values of breaking strength, which is one of the indicators of the internal characteristics of hair, was high in the case of chitosan treated samples. The values of elongation was also high in the case of chitosan treated samples, which proves the chitosan treatment effect. The friction force, one of the indicators of surface characteristics, was reduced for the case of chitosan treated samples.
Influence of Window Display and Clothing Shopping Value on Consumer Attitude
Kwon, Hae-Sook ; Shin, Eun-Kyung ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 64~78
The main findings are as follows: First, both male and female group, image display was showed higher scores than the product display in the dimensions of 'interest' and 'impression, and the product display presented higher scores than the image display in the dimensions of 'information'. Second, in the dimensions of 'interest', more interest was demonstrated in image display for both male and female consumer group irrelevant to clothing shopping values. The pleasure pursuit consumer group of male and female presented more interest toward the both types of window display. Third, in the dimensions of 'information', the product display had more effect for both sex groups and the pleasure pursuit consumer group was seeking more information than the others groups through the window display. Fourth, in the dimensions of 'impression', the image display formed stronger impression and image for both male and female consumer group and the pleasure pursuit group showed higher score of impression formation than the other two groups.
모발(毛髮)의 Carotinoid계(係) 색소(色素) 염색(染色)에서 Chitosan 처리순서(處理順序)가 모발(毛髮)의 염색성(染色性)과 역학적(力學的) 특성(特性)에 미치는 영향(影響)
Kim, Kyung-Sun ; Jeon, Dong-Won ; Kim, Jong-Jun ; Ahn, Byung-Tae ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 79~89
The effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing and dye fastness, and mechanical properties of hair was investigated in this study when the carotinoid dyestuffs extracted from African Marigold(Tagetes erecta L.) were applied to the hair. The sequences of the chitosan treatment were changed in dyeing and mordanting procedures, i.e., pre-treatment, mid-treatment, and post-treatment. While the effect of chitosan application on the color shade change was not significant, the pre-treatment of the chitosan increased the dye uptake. Discoloration and fading was observed in the lightfastness test when chitosan was mid-treated. Alkali perspiration and acid perspiration fastness test results showed that chitosan post-treatment gave lower tendency. Washing fastness results showed that chitosan post-treatment and mid-treatment gave lower values, which indicates that chitosan deters the direct formation of insoluble complex among fiber-dyestuff-mordant. In the mechanical characteristics results, however, initial modulus and breaking strength increased significantly in the post-treatment and pre-treatment of chitosan.
A Study of Hair Art by motifs Goddess
Lee, Hyun-Jin ; Park, Eun-Jung ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 90~99
Arts is the expression of reasoning and conscious life of human and arouse human the concept of existence, utmost emotion and excellent thoughts. Also it makes humans life very abundant. I make it come first to get rid of the art thirst on the opposite sight of technical one for hair as on part of humans body. Next purpose is that to confirm the esthetic value of 'hair arts' by solidify the academic ground of beauty arts through creating 'hair arts' works and learning and make the direction for the beauty industry and education of the next generation. In this study I investigated the Greek myth(the background and develop)and the hair styles of ancient Greek Goddesses. On the basis of that symbols I elaborated hair formative works made of metal and studied, analyzed and displayed that. Work No.1 'Aphrodite' is the sculpture showing the win of love which animated. I formed it very active and vigorous. Next 'Birth of Venus', No.2, involves fineness and freshness. 'Fear of Medusa', the third piece, displays the very second when medusa was executed as a beautiful and active scene not a scary one. And lastly in 'Lovely Medusa' Medusa finally find the stability and it was expressed her beautiful and shining hair. So this study conducted based on the concept of practical hair and have made efforts to be close to theoretical manufacturing research needed at making hair arts works and academic one needed at organic design composition for pioneering new field, 'art hair.' I hope these 'hair arts' works make creativity of the practise hair alive. It will be very thankful to me if this study can help even though slightly for splendid beauty arts to make its status firm as a one part of arts, and there are following studies.
Study of Real Somatotype and Perceived Body Classified by Body Index of College Women
Lee, Jung-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 100~109
The purpose of this research is to study the recognition of real somatotype and body of college women. The study was carried out by classifying somatotypes into three categories based on the body index; slim, normal, and obese somatotype. The subject of this study was 106 college women, and real measurement and survey were used. Data was analyzed by SPSS 12.0 and cross tabulation analysis, t-test, Anova, and correlation analysis were operated. The result is as follows. 1. The height of the subjects was 163.5cm, weight was 53.3kg, Rohrer index was 1.2, BMI was 19.9, Vervaeck index was 84.4 and the classification based on the body index belonged to the normal group. 2. The characteristics of groups divided by the body index are that slimmer groups is longer in length factor and smaller in the factors related with volume than other groups. The characteristics of groups classified by self-consciousness shows significant difference in all girth factors, back intersyce breadth, front intersyce breadth, neck to nipple length, and nipple to nipple breadth. 3. Conscious about the somatotype with using body index generally shows similarity. In the length factor including height, slim somatotype group is perceived as longer than normal somatotype group, and in the girth factor including weight, normal somatotype group is recognized as bigger and thicker than others.
The Mode and the Characteristics of Deconstructionism Expressed in Fashion Design - Centering on Review of Literatures and Precedent researches -
Kwon, Hae-Sook ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 110~123
This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.
A Study on Classification of Chinese Women - Focusing on the Body Index -
Kim, Eun-Hee ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 124~135
To understand tendency of body shapes of Chinese women who reside in Beijing and Shanghai for improving the match of exported clothes to China, this categorizes the bodies by extracting the elements of the objects and understanding body promotion. To categorize the subject by not size factor but form factor, data were compared and analyzed mainly with index based on measurement of the body. This selected specimen as 1381 of Chinese women from 19 to 50 selected in random sampling in Shanghai and Beijing from 23th, June to 7th August in 2004. 1. Chinese women is generally separated in 7.09 parts and upper body including waist shapes round. 2. The elements indicating the women's physical properties are obesity, the size of upper part, front shape, side shape, shoulder and back shape, perpendicular size and lower part length, body shape. 3. The Chinese are categorized by three factors. Normal shape which is not both fat and skinny, records the highest in the ranking.
A Study on Classification of Chinese Women according to Index - According to Region and Age Group -
Kim, Eun-Hee ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 136~154
This aims to improve match of clothes for export by offering material information about Chinese women's shape. Therefore, this categorizes the shape by where they live or how they are old and understands the tendency of spread of the shape. To categorize the subject by not size factor but form factor, data were compared and analyzed mainly with index based on measurement of the body. This selected specimen as 1,381 of Chinese women from 19 to 50 selected in random sampling in Shanghai and Beijing from 23th, June to 7th August in 2004. 1. Body shapes categorized by regional and age base are hardly different in its contents. The younger they are, the stronger the tendency of front side factors is, the older they are, the stronger the tendency of shoulder and back side factors is, so this shows that there are slight differences in degree of importance. 2. This is categorized by equal formations in regional and age base in all groups. Normal shapes record highest in the twenties and thirties, fat and skinny shapes record highest and lowest in the forties, respectively. Normal, fat and skinny show its range as respectively decreasing order in Shanghai and Beijing.
Syntheses of Rayon-like Polyester
Ahn, Young-Moo ; Park, Young-Gi ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 5, 2007, Pages 155~164
Viscose rayon has advantages such as vivid luster, good dyeability, low static electricity, good absorbance and good spinnability but also has flaws such as easy crease and decrease of physical properties when it gets wetting, and it requires dry cleaning. Therefore in order to synthesize the polymer to solve the problems of rayon while keeping the advantages of it, this study made the high specific gravity polyester for ultra drape property and high contraction polyester for rayon-like fiber having volume, soft and warm sense. The polyester with high specific gravity, 1.47 was made by adding 7 wt% of
as additive. High contraction polyester was made by copolymerization by using IPA 5 mole% to increase the amorphous region as comonomer and also using Newpol BPE-20(NPE) 1.5 wt% not to decrease the properties.