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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2007
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Dec 2007
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Sep 2007
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jul 2007
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Jun 2007
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2007
Selecting the target year
A study on the Blouse Pattern of High School Girls' Uniform
Lee, Jun-Ok ; Jung, Jae-Eun ; Park, Jae-Kyung ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 1~10
The purpose of this study was to provide a blouse pattern of high school girls' uniform for production of good silhouette and fitness blouse as well as functionality. In this study, we compared blouse patterns of high school girls' uniform made in the three brands of higher market share being compared. The blouse was the most common design of high school girls' uniforms being sold. In addition, we compared characteristics of appearance and functionality of blouse patterns by the wearing test. Based on the results of pattern comparison and wearing test of the blouses, the new blouse pattern for high school girls' uniform was developed. The results of the wearing test for appearance showed that the developed blouse obtained statistically higher ratings than the existing brands in almost items. The results of the wearing test for functionality of the developed blouse showed that items related with sleeve cap were evaluated a rating below 3. In order to improve functionality, the developed blouse pattern was changed that the sleeve cap was lowered by 0.5cm and the sleeve breadth increased by 1cm. The drafting of the new blouse pattern was developed.
A study on the change of consciousness regarding tattoo
Hwang, Bo-Ra ; Cho, Jin-A ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 11~23
This study has investigated the stream of consciousness and the actual conditions of tattoo. A survey of 466 people has found that female prefer tattoo, and a group of age between 21 and 41 and professionals are more interested in it. Both past and present of attitude consciousness about tattoo understand it dynamic and severe. However, it is considered as a feminine these days, whereas it had been understood as a masculine image in the past, which means a decrease of symbolism by gender. Also, in comparison with the past, the current thoughts on tattoo are getting hopeful and affirmative that we could know the attitude about tattoo changes. A survey of 106 tattooists shows that most people get a temporary tattoo, and permanent, semi-permanent tattoo came next. The most preferred area were eyebrows, are, shoulder, forearm, back of hand and waist, and a main reason of getting tattoo were for beauty and ostentation. For the level of satisfaction, 70.7% of the people polled said they were satisfied with it, and male preferred a pattern of animal, geometric and plant while female preferred a pattern of plant, animal, and geometric in order. So far, by the lack of basic information and data, efficiency value of tattoo is in negative view. Thus, it would be required to enhance a level of understanding tattoo focusing on the positive side like a new life style, sense of value, sensation and emotion of contemporary people, and generalize it by providing various technical information and knowledge of beauty image effect accompanied with tattoo.
A Basic Study on the Hat Production for Aged Women
Shim, Boo-Ja ; Yoo, Hyun ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 24~34
This study aims to suggest basic data for the production of hats for aged women. The subjects were 151 females who are 60 years old or above and live in Busan. Their hat-wearing reality was inquired and their head parts were measured, which led to the following conclusion: 1. Results of Hat-Wearing Reality Inquiry 64.9% answered they are unsatisfied with the size system of the available hats at present, implying the necessity for improving the current dimension system. 92.7% responded hat dimensions need to be subdivided, while 97.4% were for the necessity of hat size system. 74.8% expressed their will to buy ordered hats because they can find the hats of right sizes and designs. 2. Results of Head-Part Measurement Experiments According to head-part measurement, head circumference A was 53.26cm, head circumference B 54.19cm, and head circumference C 57.69cm on the average. Cluster analysis revealed three types. Type 1 (24%) with small head length and circumference is the smallest head with a wide upper part. Type 2 (33%) has long head height, short bitragion arc A, and thick head breadth. Type 3 (43%), owing to big head circumference and length as well as high values in vertical items. Considering head circumference B (HCB) and bitragion arc A (BAA), a new hat size system of 3 sizes (HCB: BAA) was chosen: S (52cm: 29cm), M (53-55cm: 30cm), and L (56-57cm: 31cm).
The Wearing Sense of Male Adult Shoes - Comparison of Common Shoes with Elevated Shoes -
Shim, Boo-Ja ; Yoo, Hyun ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 35~51
This research was administered in order to know the effects of heels on the foot by comparing the foot environmental characteristics when common shoes and elevated shoes are worn. First, 157 male adults in their 20s through 40s living in Busan were the inquiry subjects to reveal the shoes-wearing reality of adult males. Second, 7 male adults in their early 20s became the subjects for the experiments of wearing common shoes and elevated shoes. 1. Inquiry Results of Shoes-Wearing Reality Common-shoes wearers were in the order: 20s (43.9%) > 30s (24.8%) > 40s (8.3%). Elevated-shoes wearers were mostly 20s (12.1%), followed by 30s (8.3%) and 40s (2.5%). Among the wearing effects of elevated shoes were 'looking taller' (66.7%), 'no height complex & more confidence' (30.6%), and 'higher work efficiency' (2.8%). In sum, 97.3% of the male subjects believed in great positive effects by wearing elevated shoes. 2. Shoes-Wearing Experiment Results In foot skin temperature, significant differences between the two groups were admitted in outer foot a (p<0.05) and other areas (p<0.001), except in the instep. Elevated-shoes group had bigger skin temperature, while the order of temperature was the instep, the big toe, inner foot a/b/c and outer foot a/b/c. Significant difference was accepted in total sweat rate (p<0.05) and local sweat rate (p<0.01). Elevated-shoes group appeared higher in both rates. Significant difference (p<0.001) between the two groups was recognized in fatigue degrees after wearing, whereas significance (p<0.05) in elevated-shoes group was approved in fatigue before and after exercise. So elevated-shoes group experienced more fatigue, especially after exercise.
Preparation of UV protective cotton fabrics by novel UV-curing technique - Using a photocrosslinkable polymer, poly(ethylene glycol) dimethacylate -
Kim, Sin-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 52~61
To increase the ultraviolet radiation (UVR) protection of cotton fabric, ultraviolet protection (UVP) materials were treated onto cotton fabric using a new technique, UV-curing. A photocrosslinkablepolymer, poly(ethylene glycol) dimethacrylate was used as a UV-curable resin in the presence of a small amount of photoinitiator. Two kinds of UVP materials were used, UV-absorber, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, and UV-scatterer,
Pad-dry-cure method in employing these materials onto cotton was also conducted to compare the effectiveness and the washfastness of UVP treatment between curing methods. UVP treated cotton fabric showed a moderate increase in UVP in case of 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone treatment and a high increase in case of
. UV-curing method increased the washfastness of UVP property of
treated cotton fabrics. However, in case of 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, similar wash fastnesses of UV-cured and pad-dry-cured cotton were observed. It can be presumed that 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone was not significantly affected by water since its hydrophobicity. In short, UV-curing of UVP materials onto cotton was successfully done, and treated cotton fabrics showed the increased UVP properties and an increased washfastness in some extent.
A Study on Preference Factors of Body, Self, Costume and Hairstyle Image by Occupation Type
Seo, Yun-Kyeong ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 62~74
This study aims at applying the body image, self-image and costume image, which is completed as harmony of hairstyle according to 14 occupational types to be help at in time of image creation. It made a survey of 5,658 women living in Seoul. The result of response showed that a sandglass type and rectangular type is highest in a form suited to the body image for educational employees, public officials, business employees, service workers, office workers, financial employees, university students who are majoring in beauty), beauty artists and entertainers, and for police officers, housewives, medical service workers, university students who aren't majoring in beauty, respectively, which there is the difference by occupational group. But there is no difference from a point of view that many women of our country are much alike in a form.
Consumers' Perceptions toward Immoral Shopping Behaviors in Apparel Retailing
Lee, Mi-Young ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 75~86
This study investigated the differences of consumers' perception toward immoral shopping behavior when they shop in apparel retail stores by consumer characteristics such as ethical ideology and gender. Forsyth's(1980) ethical ideology measuring idealism and relativism was used. Three hundred twenty-five college students enrolled at a large university located in a metropolitan area participated in the study. These students were divided into four groups on the basis of their ethical ideology: situationist, subjectivist, exceptionist, or absolutist. A series of factor analyses revealed three factors of immoral shopping behaviors: shoplifting, active immoral shopping behaviors, and passive immoral shopping behaviors. The four groups significantly differed in regard to their perceptions toward active immoral shopping behaviors and passive immoral shopping behaviors. T-tests revealed that females tended to perceive shoplifting and passive immoral shopping behavior factor worse than males. The results of this study would be used for developing consumer educational programs and retail training programs.
Deconstructionism in Issey Miyake's Fashion Design
Kwon, Hae-Sook ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 87~100
This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.
A Study on the Pattern by the Traits of Fabrics of Women's Tailored Jacket
Jang, Se-Eun ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 101~114
This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.
Goniometric Image Analysis of Observed Color Change in Dyed Trilobal Cross-section Polyester Monofilament Fabrics
Lee, Jung-Min ; Kim, Jong-Jun ; Jeon, Dong-Won ; Ahn, Byung-Tae ; Choi, Jung-Im ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 115~124
The cross-section of the polyester filament yarn has been modified to have a variety of shape for aesthetic, added functions and sensitivities, and other purposes. Transparent polyester filament of trilobal cross-section has unique optical properties with high anisotropic reflectivity and transmissivity. The monofilament yarns may be utilized to impart to the fabrics lustrous appearance along with unique color change in case differently dyed yarns are woven together. The color changes of the fabric specimens according to the changes in observation and lighting conditions were analyzed using a CCD camera and an image analysis software. The changes of color/luster of the fabric specimens were measured and analyzed based on RGB,
and the color distribution within a three-dimensional color space.
Types of Shamanistic Expression Reflected in the Modern Fashion and Its Aesthetic Characteristics
Kwon, Jin ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 125~138
The modern fashion contains the religious factors or theories out of numerous cultural traits. Shamanism is a product of the very complicated combination of diversified cultural phenomena and whose traits are depicted as spiritual and artistic forms, reflecting on the materialism culture, social relations, customs, and religious faith. The Shamanism that lies in the life of humans gives much impact on their clothing life up to date, consciously or nonconsciously as well. The Shamanism clothing studied as yet has been focused on the costumes that a Shamanism priest and a shaman, the principal Shamanism performer wears and on the symbolic meaning or formativeness of the traditional shaman clothing that is only confined to certain local regions. The Shamanism in the modern costume influences not only on the traditional clothing unique to shaman but also on the other apparels in a widely extended sense. Nevertheless, the research on the modern costumes related to Shamanism is yet to be progressed. In this context, it is believed that the examination of Shamanism interrelated with a contemporary clothing expression is needed. This work would take a look specifically at how the Shamanism is given in the modern clothing fashion and review the inherent aesthetic characteristics. A fact was driven through this study that the shamanism shown in fashion is not only expressed in the modern style of shaman clothing but also unconsciously absorbed in the fashion on the whole. A finding was also revealed that the geometrical and abstract expression, the implication of animistic components, and the application of inherent shaman's costume on to design in regard to clothing are related to a view point of studying about shamanism. The meaning in each expressive method is focused on the superhumanistic desire of shamanism.
Aesthetic Characteristics of Traditional Korean Patterns Expressed on Contemporary Fashion Design - from 1990 to 2005 -
Hyun, Sun-Hee ; Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Fashion business, volume 11, issue 6, 2007, Pages 139~156
The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of traditional Korean patterns appearing on fashion collections from 1990 to 2005. Traditional Korean patterns have been used as an important element to express a Korean image since the 1990s. Frequently used patterns included several kinds of geometric patterns, plant patterns(flower, peony, Four Gracious Plants), and Chinese character patterns. Specifically, since the 2000s, animal patterns such as tiger, Chinese phoenix, and giraffe which were not often used, plant patterns such as arabesque, peony, and flower, and a variety of Chinese character patterns appeared. For the expression techniques, while embroidery and printing was often used in the 1990s, they became varied into printing, beading, embroidery, gold and silver leaf, and hand painting after 2000 as a result of designers' active attempts. The aesthetic characteristics of fashion design with its focus on traditional patterns were analyzed. First, Chinese character patterns and phoenix pattern which were mainly used for a court suit, and show the excellence and unique originality of Korean culture. Second, traditional Korean patterns directly and indirectly imply symbolistic significance of lucky sign and illustrate the use of various lucky sign patterns. Third, traditional Korean patterns such as arabesque or peony were expressed by colorful embroidery to add decorative beauty. Finally, traditional Korean patterns reflect a naturalistic worldview and are completed finished as the design.