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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
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Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2008
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Dec 2008
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Sep 2008
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jul 2008
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Jun 2008
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Permanent Design of Rods Each Number
Lee, Su-Hee ; Cho, Koh-Mi ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 1~11
The purpose of this study is to explore to determine the maximum volume with doing permanent waving in flat crown of the head. The method was like this. First of all, the diameter, the ratio of the circumference of a circle to its diameter and the number of rotations were analyzed same hair using permanent waving rods each number of 1
10. Secondly, the increasing rate of volume of curls number of 1
10 was analyzed. According to the result of the experiment, as the number of permanent waving rods were bigger, the ratio of the circumference of a circle to its diameter constant was increasing but the number of rotations was decreased. When the permanent waving rods of each number 1-3(Big diameter) were used, the volume was decreased. That's because there was fewer rotation compared to the diameter and was no ample combed dried hair. Due to this kind of reason, there was no perfect curling. Once number 10 permanent waving rods (most small size) was used, the shape of curling was strong and the stability was made after combed dried hair. But volume was decreased by 9% because of the cohesive power. In case of number of 4
9 rods used, volume was increased. Volume was highest when permanent waving rods was number 5 which was used combing on base both morphology and numerical value.
A Study on the Costume and Color Image of the Movie
- Focusing on Main Actresses' Costumes -
Hong, Jin-Hee ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 12~27
The purpose of this study is to study main characters' (Roxie Hart, Velma Kelly) costumes and color images in the movie "Chicago". First, regarding the costumes and color images in characters, Roxie's straight silhouette slip in skin tone reflected her frailty and monotonous routines in reality. On the other hand, a white beaded dress showed her fame-hungry and self-absorption in fantasy. Also, a low waistline blue dress and a see-through black dress with a white collar were to disguise her guilt and draw sympathy to win a suitcase. Black and contrasting colors of red and blue body-suit style dresses expressed Velma's sensual attraction, aggressiveness, and desperation. Second, these images were reinforced by color images in the backgrounds in the film. On the scene of Velma's 'cell block tango', black and red showed her strong character. Contrasting colors of the red and blue expressed Velma's desire and despair in her act of 'the desperation'. As for images of black color on Roxie's stages, they represented her self-absorption and frustration of failing to attract public attention. On the ending of duet performance of Roxie and Velma, the yellow of the background expressed success and joy in life.
A Study on the Costume expressed in the American New Cinema - focused on
Kim, Hye-Jeong ; Park, Ji-Hoon ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 28~41
Fashion style in movies delivers their image the atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking the characters in the movies and including its plot. When the American new cinema emerged in late 1960's and early 1970's in the American movie history, the new left wing which wants to overturn adult generation and the hippie culture which wants to escape from an existing system also emerged. Therefore, this study analyzed the fashion style in the movie 'Easy Rider (1969)', i.e. the representative new American movie which showed the isolation from adult generation and negative realities of the American society. From the movie, we can understand the young generation after the Vietnam war, i.e. baby boom generation, pursued the hippie culture as their young culture. With their strong self-consciousness, they formed their own lifestyle and values which are different from those of adult generation, and we can understand clothes were used as a tool to express their value system.
A Study on the Dress Design Using Art Nouveau Image - Focus on the Decoration Detail Case -
Lee, Jung-Won ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 42~58
The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.
An Analysis of 2006-2007 F/W Women's Street Fashion in Dalian, China
Baek, Jeong-Hyun ; Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 59~71
The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of '06-07 F/W women's street fashion in Dalian. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 15 weeks from 23 Sep. 2006 until 6 Jan. 2007, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of City, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development Zone. Finally, 900 photos were selected for analysing. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are jean casual 45.4%(409), sports casual 16.3%(147), character casual 8%(72), feminine 20.6%(185), Classic 9.7%(87). Compare to the former study about Spring, Sports casual showed dominant rate about 36.0% in casual style. In Winter, however, the preference were changed from sport casual to jean casual. 2. Preferred clothing items are parka/padding coat 32.3%(291), jumper 31%(279), T-shirts 16%(144) and jacket 7.5%(67) for tops, pants 91.8%(826) and skirts 8.2%(74) for bottoms. In the pants, straight pants 78.4%(648), bell bottom pants 10.9%(90), capri pants 7.4%(61), cargo pants 2.9%(24), bermuda pants 0.4%(3) were listed respectively. In the skirts, A-line skirt 51.3%(38), pleats skirt 25.7%(19), flare skirt 12.2%(9), semi-tight skirt 8.1%(6), tight skirt 2.7%(2) were listed. Finally the skirt length midi 75.7%(56), mini 18.9%(14) and maxi 5.4%(4) were listed. 3. Preferred colors are red 21.8%(196), white 21.6%(194), black 16.4%(148), yellow 10.0%(90), beige 9.3%(84), green 7.9(71) and blue 6.3%(57) for tops, and black 40.8%(367), blue 37.7%(339), gray 4.6%(41), white 4.3%(39) etc. for bottoms.
A Research on the Brassiere Preference and Wearing Status of Chinese Women in their 20's
Cha, Su-Joung ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 72~86
This research focused on determining the brassiere preference index and wearing status of chinese ladies in their 20's living in the Shanghai region of China, to help Korean lingerie companies in their development of bras to successfully advance into the Chinese lingerie market. The main research tool of this research was various different surveys, and the results of the surveys were evaluated using the SPSS 12.0 for Window program. The results of the survey can be summarized as: 1) consciousness and satisfaction level of the body. The satisfaction level of the brest was proportionate to the size of the brassiere, thus, people showed higher level of satisfaction for cone-shaped, semi-circular shaped, prominent-shaped(exposing), lifted-shaped brest over flat-shaped brest. Concerning the relationship between the shape of the brest and the age of the customers, people under 22 years of age preferred flat-shaped, and those between 23-24 years of age preferring exposing and lifted brest, thus as females mature and get older, the size of their brest increases, thus having preference on more circular and lifted-shaped brest and bras. 2) Status of bra wearing in China When we look at the size of the bra in relation to the shape of the brest, those classified as having 'flat-shaped' brest showed a high proportion of A-cups, ranging from 75A, 70A and 80A, where as those of 'cone-shaped' brest represented high ration of B-cups, ranging from 75B, 75A and 80B. Majority of those classified as having 'semi-circular shaped' and 'prominent-shaped(exposing)' brest showed a high ration in the size 80 range. And vast majority of those classified into the 'lifted-shaped' brest group, were reported of having C-cup size bras. 3) Status of Bra Purchasing As people mature, the main reason behind choosing a bra was the actual design of the bra, where they emphasized the importance of aesthetic values. People classified as having 'flat-shaped' and 'cone-shaped' brest emphasized the importance of design and beauty, while those having 'semi-circular shaped,' 'prominent-shaped(exposing),' and 'liftedshaped' brest groups emphasized the importance of hygiene and the material(fabric) of the bra. This shows that when people have relatively smaller brest, they emphasize the importance of external appearance whereas when the size of the brest increases, they pay more attention to the function of the bra rather than the external appearance.
Type Analysis of Lower Trunk Body for the Slacks Pattern Design of Chinese Middle-Aged Men - Focused on Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province -
Shim, Boo-Ja ; Suh, Chu-Yeon ; Lee, So-Young ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 87~99
This study aims to classify lower trunk body types of Chinese men in their middle age (30s and 40s) and suggest the standard for them to design slacks pattern. Mollison's relation deviations were used to analyze the direct measurement items in this research compared to those of Size Korea 2004. Though Korean middle-aged men were higher in most items than Chinese counterparts, all items except mid-thigh circumference and side hip length were merely within the range of
. According to the results of size classification by absolute values, factor analysis extracted to 2 factors(horizontal size of lower body and vertical size of lower body), and cluster analysis brought about 3 types(type1: tall and thin trunk (36.9%), type 2 : normal height and thick trunk(45.5%), and type 3 : short and normal trunk(17.6%) with some significant differences among them. Also, the results of shape classification by index values, they were extracted 4 factors (waist-hip flatness, waist-hip cross section, vertical waist-groin and hip-surface length) by factor analysis and revealed 3 types(type 1: different waist-hip width, thick, long waist, long upper hip, and short hip-surface length(27.8%), type 2 : different waist-hip width, flat, short upper hip, high hip and groin, and average hip-surface length(29.4%), and type 3: small waist-hip width, thick, average upper hip, and short hip-surface length (42.8%)) with significant differences among them by cluster analysis. The results of standard body types by shape-size combination, 19subjects(10.16%) under these values are regarded as standard body types. Significance was not seen in all items in the t-test results between the total group and the standard group. The latter had lower variation coefficients and smaller individual differences than the former. However, in-depth research is required for generalization since this research is limited to a small number of subjects in Ningbo of Zhejiang.
Characteristics of avant-garde deconstruction-ism expressed in Alexander McQueen's Design
Kwon, Hae-Sook ; Keum, Yun-Jin ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 100~116
This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.
A Research on the Tailored Suit Wearing Conditions and Fit Preferences of Chinese Adult Women - Focusing on the age of 25-34 Resident in Shanghai -
Kang, Yeon-Kyung ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 117~133
In this research, female adults in ages 25 to 34 that reside in Shanghai, China, have been polled from 29th of December, 2007 to 2nd of February, 2008 in accordance with simple random sampling method. 210 women have been selected and polled. Of these, 10 who responded in appropriately were excluded and the remaining 200 were used in the final analysis. The questionnaires used in this poll were made up of ones that are about how they wear tailored suits and how much they are satisfied with them, and questions about demographical characteristics. SPSSWIN 12.0 Program was used as the analysis method in getting statistics and descriptive statistical analysis, t-test, and
analysis have been performed. The summary about the Chinese female adults is as follows: 1. They prefer jackets with design, style, and quality that better fit them to the ones with a name brand and a lower price. 2. They prefer shoulder princess style jackets with short lapel color lengths and slacks with a basic style in waistline. 3. When wearing jackets they feel uncomfortable in all regions and were not satisfied. 4. All responded that they have an experience of having the jackets mended after purchasing them and a high frequency of mending was shown along the waistline, hips, and leg lengths.
The Actual Wearing Condition and Preference of the Working Uniform Design in the Industrial Complex
Park, Hye-Won ; Park, Gin-Ah ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 134~152
Functional, aesthetic and symbolic working uniforms in the industrial complex are demanded by employees and employers. The purpose of this research was to find out the actual wearing condition and preference of the working uniform design in the industrial complex. The research selected 7 enterprise subjects located in the Changwon National Industrial Complex and adopted a questionnaire method. 912 workers categorized into 4 work groups according to their work posts replied in total. The data and the degrees of satisfaction/preference of the working uniforms were analysed into descriptive statistics and F-tests by using the SPSS S/W package. The results were as follows: First, the style of the working uniform was the standard two-piece style. Second, the degree of the satisfaction with the entrepreneurial image implied to the working uniform was 2.83 throughout the 5-scale evaluation. In addition, the degree of the satisfaction with the working uniform colors was in between 2.94 and 2.96. Third, unsatisfied parts of the upper and lower uniform garments were: sleeve > pocket > collar; and waist belt loop > hip pocket > hem line respectively. Fourth, beige was the most preferred color for the working uniform top and bottom both. The most preferred color images were the calm and safety and the bright and light in order. Especially, the demand on the safety factors and soil proof colors of the outside field workers was much higher than the clerical workers. Fifth, the blouson type jacket with shirts collar or soutien roll collar was more preferred to than the casual style; and the straight formal pants were more preferred to than the casual/sweat sports pants styles. Sixth, inner pockets to keep the mobile phone and pens were required for upper garment details specially by manufacture workers. Increase of the waist belt loop numbers was required by all work groups.
The Effects of University Woman Students' socio-cultural attitudes to appearance on their body image and satisfaction of their physical bodies
Lee, Jung-Soon ; Han, Gyung-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 153~164
The author of this study would like to consider the influence that socio-cultural attitudes to the appearance offemale college students have on body image and satisfaction. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the result of the analysis of the relevant factors of socio-cultural attitudes on outward appearance of women college students, three factors which are named "Internalization", "Awareness" and "Non-confirmity" have been drawn out: 2. According to the result of the factor analysis for the evaluation of the behavioral figure images of women college students, three factors which are named "Figure Management", "Weight Management" and "Figure Valuation" have been drawn out: 3. Socio-cultural attitudes to appearance have correlation with body image, BMI and self-satisfaction of body and appearance: 4. According to consideration of the result of the study of the Influence that socio-cultural attitudes to the appearance have on physical satisfactionof each physical part, it is showed that they have managed their physical weight according to the satisfaction degree of weight and other circumference items: 5. Socio-cultural attitudes to appearance have high correlation with appearance management and weight management.
Brand as determinant of evaluation of product personality - A cross-cultural study -
Suk, Hyeon-Jeong ; Jeong, Sang-Hoon ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 2, 2008, Pages 165~175
A cross-cultural study was carried out in Germany and in South Korea in order to investigate the relationship between brand personality and product personality facilitating the three dimensions of personality agreeableness, excitement, and extroversion. Two pairs of shoes were prepared across categories of product function symbolic (a pair of high-heeled shoes) versus utilitarian (a pair of sport shoes). In experiments, each pair of shoes was labeled as a luxury brand ("Versace") or a casual brand ("C&A", Germany; "Migliore", South Korea) or left unlabeled. Prior to the experiments, an expert group in each country evaluated the brand personality in terms of "cheerful" (agreeableness), "honest"(conscientiousness), and "provocative" (extroversion) and the results were considered as a baseline. In Experiment I and II, subjects were exposed to two pairs of shoes labeled in one of the three ways and assessed the personality of both pairs of shoes using the personality traits, cheerful, honest, and provocative. Identical versions of the experiment were conveyed in Germany (N=56), an individualist culture, and in South Korea (N=72), a collectivist culture, and we purposed to find cultural differences in evaluating product personalities influenced by brands. The empirical results do not show any significant influence of brand personality on product personality in either cultural group (p>.05). Nevertheless, the subjects estimated the retail price of the shoes to be significantly different depending on the brands in both cultural groups (p<.001).