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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2008
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Dec 2008
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Sep 2008
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jul 2008
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Jun 2008
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Wave Formation and Hair Damage Levels Relating to the Uses of Treatments for Heat Permanent Waves
Kim, Kwan-Ok ; Kim, Sung-Nam ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 1~10
Public interest in healthy hairs gets growing as damaged hairs are seen more frequently with the generalization of heat permanent waves. For this study, experiments have been conducted to understand the influences on the changes in physical and morphological features of wave forms and damaged hairs, by collecting virgin hairs from the women in their mid-20's, who had not experienced chemical applications, and by dividing the applications of heat perm hair treatments, PPT(for pre-treatment) and LPP(for post-treatment), into the pre-treatment, the post-treatment, the pre & post-treatment, and the non-treatment. For the wave formations, curl waves were investigated by the bare eyes using the pictures taken by a digital camera. For the comparison of physical features, the experiments of tensile strength and elongation were done and their mean values were found. For the observations of morphological features, the pictures were taken by SEM for comparison. As for the findings, regarding the curl wave shapes of hairs, the most even and elastic S curl was formed in the case of non-treatment. In the physical features, both of the tensile strength and elongation showed a decreasing tendency in line with the hair damage levels, and the case of the pre & post-treatment indicated the tendency most similar to the control group. In the morphological features of the cuticle, observed with an SEM, the pre-treatment showed the higher possibility of reducing the cuticle damages than the post-treatment did. LPP was found to play the role of protective membrane for the post-treatment, and the pre & post-treatment turned out to reduce most effectively the cuticle damages.
A Study on the Wave Type and the Damage of Hair according to Water content when Heat permanent is treated - Focus on Damaged Hair -
Lee, Soon-Hee ; Choi, Jung-Myung ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 11~22
The goal of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material to use effectively heat permanent wave in beauty industry as well as their customer's satisfaction. It carried out an experiment with damaged hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphological characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. After spreading 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g, and 4g of water on damaged hair respectively, heat permanent wave was treated and the change of hair was observed. The change of physical characteristic was compared through permanent wave form of hair, tensile strength and elongation. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscope(TEM). The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that permanent wave form was the most ideal when the water content was 2g, also 3g. Though the materials with much moisture content formed the results were not satisfied. The material with 0g of water content didn't make the wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, tensile strength was generally reduced as per the damaged degree of hair. On the contrary, elongation was increased. It observed the changes of morphological characteristic that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen, as its moisture content was decreased, and cuticle's surface was worn away. The observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope also certainly showed the result that damaged hair having experience with chemical treatment had got much damaged to hair cuticle as well as hair cortex. Generally chemical treatment makes hair damaged. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. According to the result of experiment, the damaged hair whose moisture content was 3g showed the best permanent wave form.
Instrumental Analysis of the Human Hair Damaged by Bleaching Treatments - Focused on ATR FT-IRM -
Ha, Byung-Jo ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 23~33
The physico-chemical characteristics by bleaching treatments were assessed by several instrumental analyses such as surface morphology, chemical structural change, color change as well as tensile strength. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through scanning electron microscope(SEM). The observation of the fine structure on hair surface by SEM showed the bleached hair had much damaged to hair cuticle, and some of cuticle surface were worn away. To investigate the chemical structural changes in hair keratin, the cross-sections of hair samples were directly analysed using Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy(FT-IRM). The results showed the cysteic acid S=O band intensity was distinctively increased by performing the bleaching treatment. The cleavage of cystine was appeared to proceed primarily through the sulfur-sulfur (-S-S-) fission whereby cysteic acid was formed as a principal oxidation products. The distribution of amide I band in hair keratin was determined by attenuated total reflectance(ATR) FT-IR mapping image. The results showed that the outer side of hair cortex was more damaged than the inner side of the hair cortex. Also, during chemical bleaching of the hair with alkaline peroxide, the hair was turned to reddish yellow due to the oxidative degradation of eumelanin. This means the eumelanin is more unstable than pheomelanin in chemical oxidation. With bleaching, the tensile strength was also reduced as a results of the chemical oxidation.
Color Assortment Decision Factors Considered by Women's Clothing Merchandisers in Korea & United States
Kang, Keang-Young ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 34~45
This research was designed to find decision factors through color assortment planning process by Korean women's clothing merchandisers and to look for if there exists difference with American women's clothing merchandisers. A merchandise assortment is a collection of various quantities of styles, colors, sizes, and prices of related merchandise, usually grouped under one classification within a department. The subjects were 20 women's clothing merchandisers who work for clothing retail stores from 5 to 22 years in US and Korea. The authoring process was done for qualitative data analysis. The decision factors of color assortment planning were identified with four stages; information search, qualitative evaluation, quantitative evaluation, and selection. There were differences of color assortment decision factors due to different business types, business sizes, fashion-ability, sourcing ways, and merchandise turnover. Noticeable color assortment decision factor differences caused by country difference were not found except considering the target market ethnicity and skin color in US market. Korea merchandisers seem to be more sensitive to present sales data usages and spot order availability in color assortments because of more local production use than American merchandisers.
Physical Property and Virtual Sewing Image of Lyocell treated with Epichlorohydrine for the fibrillation control
Park, Ji-Yang ; Jeon, Dong-Won ; Kim, Sin-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 46~60
Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.
Physical Property Evaluation of Chitosan Mordanted Green Tea Dyed Cellulose - Focusing on the physical property changes upon the repetition of treatment -
Jung, Hye-Kyung ; Kim, Sin-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 61~72
The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.
A Study on the Exhibitions of the Costume Remains Collected at University Museums in Seoul - Focused on Seok Joo-sun Memorial Museum of Dankook University and Jeong Young-yang Embroidery Museum of Sookmyung Women's University -
Sohn, Hee-Soon ; Shin, Jang-Hee ; Chang, Hee-Kyung ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 73~80
Since costume comprises organic substances, it hardly sustain to remain long, compared with other historic relics, and it requires some professionalism to preserve and maintain costume remains. Anyway, the fact that there is no professional costume curator working for museums in Korea, except for a few museums, suggests that importance of costume remains as cultural assets has yet to be fully recognized. In such circumstances, this study was aimed at analyzing the problems of costume remains collected at university museums in Seoul and thereupon, providing for some basic data conducive to the researches into costume remains to promote a better understanding and recognition of our own unique costume culture.
A study of the round Variation Design Brassiere Pattern
Park, You-Shin ; Choi, Yeong-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 81~92
The purpose of this study is to develop the applied brassiere pattern of women which are fitting for 75A. The constructing of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and U-wing as well as a full cup embcing the entire breasts. Basing on the bra model from domestic experiment results, development of an applied design, round side type pattern, has been suggested. Thus, suggesting the round variation design bra, which is an applied design based on the basic model based on the breast volume. Based on the sizes that are in reference to Size Korea (2004) and related previous researches, the basic model that has been experimented with 11.4% polyurethane and 88.6% Nylon as the materials, has been selected as the model of research. This takes 75A, the size of which is set according to the underbust circumference and the breasts circumference, as the basic model. It is an application in terms of design, and there is no change to the cup volume or size because it has been moved only from the cutting line. The applied design changes the right side of the lower cup into an easily-movable form and attaches it to the upper cup, and the lower cup takes the right part of the upper cup to form a cup shape of round variation design. It also changes basic straight form of the wings, and alters them into U-shape.
A Study on the Design Characteristics of Chanel Bags - focused on the collections from S/S 2001 to F/W 2008 -
Jang, Ji-Hye ; Cho, Kyu-Wha ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 93~106
The purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics of Chanel bags by its type and shape, material, color, pattern, decorations in order to give information about foundation of the development of Korean fashion brand handbags and help suggest predict future handbag trends. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. For the documentary research, mainly previous researches and fashion related data were used. For the demonstrative research, the total of 288 design photos of Chanel bag were selected from 2001 S/S season to 2008 F/W season fashion collections of firstview.com., style.com., and mode et mode. The results of this study are as follows; First, type and shape of bags are clutch(30%), flap(25%), shoulder(25%), others(10%), tote(5%), hobo(5%). Second, the material data shows that leather(46%), mixed(18%), fabric(17%), synthetics (10%), patent(3%), others(3%), and suede(2%). Third, the patterns are geometrical(27%), solid(25%), combination(24%), symbolic(11%), abstract(11%), nature(2%). Fourth, the colors are largely monochrome(73%) and multicolor(27%). In case of monochrome, achromatic color(50%) is more than chromatic color(23%). The chromatic color is consisted of YR(9%), Y(9%), R(5%), RP(4%), PB(2%), P(1%), GY(0.5%), BG(0.5%). The multicolor is consisted of similar coloration(12%), contrast coloration(10%), and accent coloration(5%). Fifth, the decoration data shows that metallic(53%), plain(23%), combination(22%), and handcrafted(1%).
Comparison of brassiere sales patterns in Korea and China
Cha, Su-Joung ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 107~123
The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze the brassiere patterns sold in Shanghai and Korea and to present basic materials needed in developing the brassiere patterns in Chinese adult women market. The study subject which is to find the difference in brassiere patterns of Korea and China has been selected of 3 Korean brands and 4 Chinese brands. 1. For the brassiere patterns sold in Korea, it were using the same size for the width of Hook&Eye, space between the shoulder lace on the back, slope of wing and the location of the Keeper was similar. 2. For the cup supporting base, Chinese brassiere covers the lower part of the breast and as it is not comfortable and has a phenomenon of loosening up, there were severe puckering. For issues in the wearing experiment, amendments in patterns with the cup part was required. 3. Chinese brassieres were big differences in wing angles and for Aimer, it had the steepest trend in wings and thus the wings headed down and for Gujin, as the angle of the wing was smaller than
, it was heading upward. 4. Upon comparing the patterns of the Korean and Chinese brassiere, although most of the sizes excluding the wing angle had similar sizes, there was big differences in the wing angle. The reason why the brassiere patterns sold in China had bigger wing angle was due to the fact that more Chinese women had sway back body type than the Korean women and should reflect such difference in body size into making the brassiere patterns for each women.
Comparison on the High School Girls' Purchasing Pattern of Fashion Products at Online and Offline Markets
Min, Hye-Kyung ; Hwang, Choon-Sup ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 124~137
The present study was implemented to understand high school girls' buying patterns of fashion products at online and offline shopping malls; and to obtain the information needed for the development of online and offline mall marketing strategies that are differentiated from each other. The study was conducted through a descriptive survey method using questionnaires. The sample consisted of 242 girls from four high schools located in Seoul. Descriptive statistics, cross-tabulation and a paired t-test were used for the analysis of the data. Results are as follows: First, most of the high school girls (82.2%) had experience of purchasing fashion products at online shopping malls. And, those who have purchasing experience at online shopping malls, compared to those who do not have such purchasing experience, showed a higher purchasing intension at online shopping malls. Second, both the degree of pre-purchase searching and ongoing searching was higher in online shopping than in offline shopping. Third, the quality of material, place produced, brand name, and store atmosphere/type were considered more in offline shopping than in online shopping. Shopping convenience and information service about the products were considered more in online shopping than in offline shopping. Fourth, the purchasing frequency of underwear and hair accessaries was higher at offline stores than online shopping malls, but the purchasing frequency of bags was higher in online stores than offline stores. When the differences between the purchasing patterns at online shopping malls and offline stores are considered carefully, marketing activities would be more effective.
VMD(Visual Merchandizing) Strategy Analysis for Revitalizing Web Fashion Star shop
Lee, Kun-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 12, issue 6, 2008, Pages 138~151
This study aims at providing comprehensive data which would be helpful to establish a web shopping mall by analyzing the structure of web fashion star shops which have recently emerged as a result of advances in digital technology and communication. For the purpose of analyzing VMD strategy used in web fashion star shop, we adopt both of the documental and empirical research methods, based on which we examine the concept of E-commerce and current business situation of web fashion star shop industry, and then analyze the main page, product category page and product detail page in a star shop featured by a male pop star within a web shopping mall. According to our analysis of the structure of web fashion star shop, in case of open market, a banner with star's image on it leads to star shop when people click on the link of the banner, and in case of independent mall, they show each star's unique style in the main page. Product category page is linked to each product detail page which presents items of various fashion coordinates, satisfying needs of consumers to follow star's trendy fashion sense.