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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Lee Mi Suk
Volume & Issues
Volume 19, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 19, Issue 5 - Nov 2015
Volume 19, Issue 4 - Sep 2015
Volume 19, Issue 3 - Jul 2015
Volume 19, Issue 2 - May 2015
Volume 19, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of Upcycle Designs in Product and Fashion Design
Lee, Lumi ; Yim, Eunhyuk ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 1~20
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.1
Acceleration of the fashion cycle has caused problems of environmental pollution because consumers made a lot of waste of clothes. To solve them, upcycle design has been uprised. This study researched the present condition through recent cases of upcycle design. The standard of collected cases is focused on used products which was already run out once and then has been recreated by being recreated with new design. Through this study, there is a purpose to provide solution of environmental pollutions and a right direction of upcycle fashion design. Collected cases are classified into five production methods. First method is Melting and Compressing, which it melts or compresses materials. Second method is Gathering and Combining, which it gathers or combines each different materials. Third method is Cutting and Dividing, which it cuts or divides products materials. Fourth method is Mixing and Changing, which it mixes materials, adds design elements, and changes of purpose. Final things are classified with multiplicatively used factors which are already divided.
Self-consciousness, and Appearance Management Behavior according to Stress Typology of Adolescents
Park, Eunhee ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 21~36
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.21
The purpose of this study is to classify the stress into groups and analyze their differences in self-consciousness, and appearance management behavior. Questionnaires were administered to 377 middle and high school girls living in Deagu metropolitan City. Frequency, factor analysis, reliability analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncant-test, and t-test are all used for data analysis. Our findings show that stress developed due to several reasons: the categories are as follows into grades-related low stress, exam-related high stress, and society-related high stress. For the purposes of our study, we labeled self-consciousness as a combination of being socially and privately self-consciousness and showing signs of social anxiety. Appearance management behavior deals with esthetic plastic surgery, clothing harmony, weight management, hair management, health care, skin care, and meal management. Stress shows a significant correlation with the sub-variable self-consciousness and appearance management behavior. The groups show a significant difference in the self-consciousness, and appearance management behavior. There is also a significant difference among stress, self-consciousness and appearance management behavior by grade. The students in seemed to recognize that their appearance can be improved by dressing up and managing their outwardly appearance. Teachers should educate students to have the variety of views on the meaning of beauty. In addition, schools need to develop programs to educate student about appearances, as the student's interests differ due to the stress type of the adolescent.
The Research on the Factors Influenced on the Cosmetologists' Health of Digestive System
An, Hyeonkyeong ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 37~56
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.37
This thesis aimed to determine the effecting factors(eating pattern, working condition, stress, health care) that help maintain the health of the cosmetologists' digestive system and the diseases involved (acid reflux, indigestion, gastritis, constipation & diarrhea). The research methods included survey and statistical analysis. The survey was conducted on 242 cosmetologists from August 30 to October 30 2014. The data analysis included frequency, cross table,
-test, and regression with SPSS(V. 14). The results were as follows ; (1) The cosmetologists' health of digestive system and eating pattern are related. Regular and enough meal times cause less digestive disease. Acid reflux, indigestion, gastritis, constipation and diarrhea are differently related with the type of usual eating pattern, especially, instant food is not good for digestive health. (2) The cosmetologists' health of digestive system and working condition are related. Longer daily working hours and exposure time to chemical odors are more likely to be associated with digestive diseases; whereas, longer time of standing and talking with colleagues are less likely to be associated with digestive diseases. (3) The cosmetologists' health of digestive system and stress are related. Headache, boredom, conflict of pay and compensation, and insomnia are not good for digestive health. (4) The cosmetologists' health of digestive system and health care are related. Periodical medical examination and usual body stretching are correlated with digestive diseases; whereas, people who do regular exercise and bowel movement are less likely to have digestive diseases.
A Formative Beauty of Chinese Foot-Binding Shoes and the Meaning of Chinese Costume History -Focused on Collection of Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum-
Xu, Rui ; Bae, Soojeong ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 57~74
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.57
The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.
A Study on the Real Wearing Condition and Preference of Hair Shop Uniform
Cha, Sujoung ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 75~91
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.75
There is an increased interest in having beauty regardless of ages and sex with improvement of the national income level and increase in social activities. Competition within the beauty service industry is increasing rapidly because of global impact within Korea wave. Thus, active public relations and offering distinguished service in the beauty service industry are important. Also, uniforms play an important role in providing an image differentiated from other brands and presents professionalism to the customer. Therefore, we determined function and design of uniforms required in beauty service industry by researching wearing realities, satisfaction, preferred designs and functions of uniforms from hair shop staff. Functional and aesthetic uniforms play an important role to enhance the staffs' sense of belonging. In addition, it is good for the image of hair shop. Special design mirroring job characteristics with expression of differentiated personalities is needed. However, the research was conducted only in the hair shop in Seoul, Daejeon, and Gyeonggi-do. Further studies on much wider areas will be needed.
Developing a Multi-Functional Smart Down Jacket Utilizing Solar Light and Evaluating the Thermal Properties of the Prototype
Yi, Kyonghwa ; Kim, Keumwha ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 92~108
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.92
This study aimed at developing a down jacket prototype that utilized sunlight as an alternative energy source with no air pollution. The jacket is filled with flexible solar panels and has a heat-generating function and LED function. In this study, three smart down jacket prototypes were developed, and the jacket's capabilities were demonstrated through the thermal effect on the performance test. The typical output voltage of the flexible solar panels was 6.4V. By connecting the 2 solar cell modules in series, the final output voltage was 12.8V. A battery charge regulator module was used the KA 7809 (TO-220) of 9V. Three heating pads were to be inserted into the belly of the jacket as direct thermal heating elements, and the LED module was configured, separated by a flash and an indicator. The smart down jacket was designed to prevent damage to the down pack without the individual devices' interfering with the human body's motion. Because this study provides insulation from extreme cold with a purpose, the jacket was tested for heat insulation properties of non-heating, heating on the back, heating on the abdomen, and heating on both the back and abdomen in a sitting posture in a static state. Thermal property analysis results from examining the average skin temperature, core temperature, and the temperature and humidity within clothing showed, that placing a heating element in one place was more effective than distributing the heating elements in different locations. Heating on the back was the most effective for maintaining optimal skin temperature, core temperature, and humidity, whereas heating on the abdomen was not effective for maintaining optimal skin temperature, core temperature, or humidity within clothing because of the gap between the jacket and the body.
A Study on Changes of Drape Shapes and Physical Properties by Applying Laser-Cutting Technique on Neoprene Materials
Han, Yoojung ; Kim, Jongjun ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 109~119
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.109
A wide variety of fashion materials focus on good drape property and softness. Among the recently emerging materials, Neoprene that consists of laminated knit on both sides of foamed neoprene sheet seeks a unique appearance that is considerably deviated from the current flow. Diverse processing methods for the newly released material heighten the value in function and beauty among trends of fashion materials by enhancing the appearance, touch and material property. Laser-cutting technique is one of the processing methods that is consistently used in the textile area. This study aimed to find the basic materials for applicability of laser-cutting technique to clothing goods after consideration of the changes in material property and drape shape, and to furthermore enforce different pattern conditions to Neoprene material, one of the newly attractive materials in the fashion area. In this study, we applied laser-cutting technique to Neoprene material sample under different conditions of pattern appearance, size and distance, based on current evaluation and theoretical background of Neoprene material, fashion trend and laser-cutting technique. Drape property can improve and the drape direction could also be controlled by a wide variety of laser-cutting techniques applied to Neoprene materials that have uniquely different appearances from most other textiles. This technique could be applied to the design for diversification of Neoprene clothing goods in the future.
Effects of U.V. Irradiation on the Physical Properties of Fabrics Treated with Eco-friendly Persimmon Juice -Silk and Nylon Fabrics-
Kim, Jimin ; Kim, Jongjun ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 120~134
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.120
This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.
The Analysis of the Martin Margiela's Design Code -Focusing on the Checklist Method-
Mok, So-Ri ; Cho, Jean-Suk ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 135~152
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.135
The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Martin Margiela's fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative designers who have followed his lead. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Margiela's Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Margiela's creations represented a break with the existing order, revealing an entirely new aesthetic conception of the beauty of form, and a fresh way to express a fashion personality and artistic philosophy. Martin Margiela has succeeded by his willingness to test the boundaries, and show that the creative process, particularly in the domain of design expression, requires the ability to overcome implicitly understood norms and restrictions.
Development of Prototype of Knit Slacks for Middle-aged Women
Lee, Jung-Jin ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 153~167
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.153
This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.
Attitudes toward Appearance and Body Satisfaction according to Uniform Modification Behavior of Middle and High School Girls
Park, Eunhee ; Cho, Hyonju ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 168~182
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.168
The purpose of this study is to classify students' attitudes towards uniform modification and analyze their subjective experience regarding appearance, and body satisfaction. Questionnaires were administered to 369 middle and high school girls living in Deagu Metropolitan City. Frequency, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis,
-test, and t-test are all used for data analysis. Our findings are as follows. Two hundred thirty students (62.3%) agreed to modify their school uniforms to express their personalities and follow fashion trends. Motives for uniform modification had to do with social life, physical attractiveness, and practicality. Attitudes toward appearance are found to be shaped by appearance internalization, active management of appearance, appearance needs, social recognition, and conformity. The motives for uniform modification reveal a significant correlation with attitudes toward appearance. Uniform modification satisfaction differed depending on sub-variables of attitude toward appearance(active management of appearance, personalized appearance needs, social recognition, and body satisfaction, such as satisfaction with height and BMI). There was a significant difference in expression of intention for future plastic surgery depending on body image.
A Study on the Work Process Analysis of Korean Apparel Exporters
Moon, Jiyeon ; Kim, Sora ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 183~199
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.183
This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.
An Analysis on the Measurement and Factors of the Foot for Korean Female especially Focusing on the Patients of the Hallux Valgus
Kim, Hyesoo ; Kim, Sonhee ;
Fashion business, volume 19, issue 4, 2015, Pages 200~212
DOI : 10.12940/jfb.2015.19.4.200
In order to study the foot deformity hallux valgus, the rate of which is currently increasing, 235 patients who were diagnosed with hallux valgus and treated in an orthopedic hospital in Seoul had their feet calibrated before and after surgery using 3d radio-scans. Data from 209 cases was analyzed and scored numerically. We scored 10 items for length, 4 for width, 3 for angle, and 2 for height, for a total of 20 items. Each individual's feet showed great variation in most of the items and significant differences after surgery, especially in regards to length and height, which increased after surgery. Angle, width, and length of the distal parts of the toes decreased after surgery. Based on the results of our analysis, we conclude that surgery brings about significant changes in structure and measurement of feet. This research confirmed that there is significant variation in foot form and individual differences based on lesion size and location and, thus, it is difficult for hallux valgus patients to find ready-made shoes that fit them properly. Foot changes before and after operation for hallux valgus were analyzed and the results quantified; our results should be considered during product design by shoe companies whose target is adult women.