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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Lee Mi Suk
Volume & Issues
Volume 2, Issue 4 - Dec 1998
Volume 2, Issue 3 - Oct 1998
Volume 2, Issue 2 - Jun 1998
Volume 2, Issue 1 - Feb 1998
Selecting the target year
An Analysis of Fashion Illustrations in American - Vogue Published in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s -
Lee, Seung-Ok ; Kim, Moon-Sook ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 1~11
In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.
Systematic Color Combination for Apparel and Textile Design
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 12~24
The purpose of this study is to investigate the efficiency of systematic color combination for apparel and textile design. We planned the new color systems, HUE AND TONE COLOR SYSTEM 277 and HUE AND TONE COLOR SYSTEM 253 USED KOREAN TRADITIONAL COLORS. In order to emprove the efficiency, this study aims to explore the development of systematic color combination by computer graphics. With this purpose, this study progressed in the following order and we obtained these results. 1. First, we considered the possibility of the development of the systematic color combination used the new color system, HUE AND TONE COLOR SYSTEM 277. We considered the possibility of the development of the systematic color combination by graphic computer SDS-480. Through the experimental regulation of the RGB (Red, Green, Blue) and HLS (Hue, Lightness, Saturation) we obtained an approximation of the colors of the HUE AND TONE COLOR SYSTEM 277 on the CRT display of SDS-480. 2. We planned the new color system, HUE AND TONE COLOR SYSTEM 253 USED KOREAN TRADITIONAL COLORS for systematic color combination. 3. In a practical application, we tried five principal types of color combination in apparel and textile design, monochromatic combination, tone on tone combination, moderate combination, tonal combination, and contrast combination. 4. Furthermore, we applied the systematic color combination for the textile patterns by tone on tone combination. By using the systematic color combination for apparel and textile design, we realized the efficiency and utility of the systematic color combination.
A Study Conceming the Designs of the Afro Fashion
Kim, Chi-Eun ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 25~34
This study has it's purpose in examining the materialized background. characteristic of African traditional costume and the A fro fashion of the year 1960. and it's influence on the contemporary fashion. Then the findings are applied to suggest a new way of image creation. 1960' s was the year in which people tried to free oneself from the ruling culture of the social standards. war. and the development of science. By such movement. people started to get interested in the environment and ecology. This then lead to the interest of the rights of the minority. With the youngs as the central figure A fro hair style and dashiki appeared as the street fashion. The characteristics of African costume applied to A fro fashion in 1990' s is as below. First. the North African style. Djellaba. and wrap style in the most common silhouette. Second. heavy materials such as stone. copper. silver. and gold are used. Necklace can be classified according to it's simple but. modern style. delicate but grand style. Bracelets are however. broad in width and many rings are worn widely. Third. Multi colored stripe and prints inspired by tattoo and deformation using red brown. dark beige. and orange are printed on textiles such as see through. Fourth. image of tattoo and deformation are applied to make-up. A fro hair and corn beads are also African taste. Fifth. African taste in recent fashion showed off the black beauty by appointing black models at the collection. In analyzing the study done above. characteristic images of African costume. accessaries and body painting was applied in presenting 3 creative designs. The first design named "Geometric I", took it's motif from the geometric pattern of the body painting with the afro hair. "Geometric II", the second design, showed it's application of geometric pattern of mutilation and the silhouette of the costume by using the see through. The third design called the "Geometric III" showed that the aesthetic and decorative side of clothing can be satisfied by applying various form and color of accessaries as the motif. A fro fashion is chosen as one of the folklore mood and it's beauty is conveyed on till today.
The Influence of the Youth Culture on the Street Fashion - On the Focus in 1960s -
Kan, Moon-Ja ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 35~48
The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.
A Study on the Fashion Design of Velvet
Chung, So-Young ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 49~56
This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.
A Study on the Present Condition and Reform Plan of Domestic licensed Fashion Magazines
Yoon, Eul-Yo ; Kim, Il ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 57~70
This study is aimed to research on the characteristics of domestic fashion magazines, and the problems and reforms of licensed magazines focused on the function of fashion magazines. As the result of study, the characteristics of domestic fashion magazines were as follows. 1) The inproportionte phenomenon of readership only concentrated on unmarried female readers in their 10' sand 20' s. 2) The lack of discrimination in magazine compilation. 3) The dual phenomenon of fashion magazines to distinguish the condition of magazines by the types of publication. 4) The role of magazines concentrated on information transmission and entertainment function. 5) The inproportionate phenomenon of publishers concentrated on domestic well-known magazine and paper companies. The problems of licensed fashion magazines found through practical grasp of the present condition are as follows. 1) Planning and compilation not to disclose the identity of each magazine. 2) Insufficiency of commentary articles. 3) Indiscreet planning and compilation of graphics. 4) Use of improper fashion terms and lack of explanation of specialized fashion terms. 5) Shortage and repetition of article materials. And the reform plans to the problems of licensed fashion magazines are as follows. 1) Subdivision and diversification of target market (readers' class). 2) Production of Korean view reflecting the world trend. 3) Expansion of commentary articles and commentary reports with objectivity and specialized character. However, these reform plans are not limited to licensed magazines, but may a basic methodology for improving the quality of domestic magazines.
A Study on Traditional Costume of the Miaos, one of China's Minorities
Boo, Ae-Jin ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 71~75
The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.
A Study on the Hip-Hop Style - Concentrating on the Design Planning of the New Generation in the 1990' s -
Chu, Eun-Hee ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 2, issue 1, 1998, Pages 86~99
The aim of this study to examine the Hip-Hop style, one of the fashion trends of the new generation in the 1990s and to come up with a design with a Hip-Hop image. As the Counterculture, Black Renaissance, Pop Star Syndrome, the importance of Hip-Hop fashion in mass culture was recognized and given a firm place as one of the major cultural trends of the 1990s. Hip-Hop fashion has a history: it originated from the Caribbean style in the 1940s and was transformed into Rude Boys style in the 1960s, Two-tone style and Rastafarians style in the 1970s. Finally it was succeeded by B-boys and Flygirls style. Hip-Hop style combines characteristics of all three styles mixed in one, which are as follows. First, Neo-Hip-Hop Fashion, Second, Hip-Hop Reggae Fashion and Third, Graffiti Fashion. Based on these three Hip-Hop images of the 19905, an attempt will be made to produce a Design Planning with a predicted 1998 fashion trend. This research provides order sheets on ready-made clothes designed for new generation in their late 10s and early 20s. Design Concept, Image Map, Fabric, color direction will be offered on the basis of an image map drawn in line with the three design concepts incorporating three sub themes of Liveliness, Modern Ethnic, and Dynamic Future. Three designs will be designed based on the following fashion themes
Generation 'Y', Black Guys and Street Boys.