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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 3, Issue 4 - Dec 1999
Volume 3, Issue 3 - Sep 1999
Volume 3, Issue 2 - Jun 1999
Volume 3, Issue 1 - Feb 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Chanel Style
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 1~17
The purpose of this study is to discover the source of the force that has continously pertained it through the years. Following the flow of the times, the Chanel Style has transformed and developed through the styles of the sporty look, the russian look, the gar onne look, the romantic look, and the classic look. Not only has Chanel created classic designs that transcend time, but she has created clothing that is very feminine and full of wit in the evening wear. She has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The Chanel Style was expressed by simplicity, funtionality, sensuality, and amusement. Simplicity to Chanel was an important element that expresses both youth and casual characteristics and the use of jersy and the color black has resulted in a functional simplicity. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a subtle, moderate, and a unobtrusive sauve sensibility is expressed in the Chanel Style. Also pleasure can be observed in the costume jewelry that gives one enjoyment.
A Study on the Designs of John Galliano
Park, Hye-Won ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 19~29
The purpose of this study is for consideration of John Galliano's fashion design works. Galliano, young British designer, became the chief designer of Givenchy in 1995 and of Christian Dior in 1996. Through fashion information from WWD, High Fashion, Mode et Mode, Collezioni, Vogue, Internet sites and video tapes from 1995 to 1999, his works were concerned for this study. The results are as followed; First, we can find dynamics in Galliano's works. The dynamic mood came from his study about historic costume. Second, new beauty from dismantling and reconstruction was expressed on his designs. Third, his experimental creativities were based on fashion business. Therefore Galliano's eccentricity signify the Maximalism against the Minimalism which dominated the end of 20th century. So we can find a clue to new millenium in fashion world in his designs.
A Study on Personal Color in Relation with Well-matched Color and Preferred Color
Oh, Hee-Sun ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 31~36
This study is to examine personal color - preferred color, well-matched color and the relations between preferred color and the well-matched color. Focus is also placed on how sexual difference influences color temperature preference. For data collection, a questionnaire including color stimulus was employed. The subjects of this study were the male and female college students who lived in Pusan. The results of the research are summarized as the following : In view of preferred color, male subjects preferred KEY2 color(warm) in red, pink, and yellow, and preferred KEY1(cool) in green and blue. While most subjects showed the same signal, in green, male preferred KEY1 color and female preferred KEY2 color. Concerning preferred personal color type, KEY1 type person liked KEY1 color except red, and KEY2 type person liked KEY2 color except blue. This shows that people prefer the focused color presenting its own traits. In view of well-matched color, most subjects liked KEY2 color in red, yellow, pink, and they selected KEY1 color in blue as the well-matched color. However, in green, each sex showed different preferences; while male subjects selected KEY1 color as the well-matched color, female ones selected KEY2 color. In each personal color type, KEY1 type male evaluated KEY1 color as the well-matched color, KEY2 type male evaluated KEY2 color except blue. KEY1 type female chose all the KEY1 color as well-matched colors, and KEY2 type female chose KEY2 color. The well-matched colors are similar between male and female subjects. In over 80 percentage of the answers, the preferred colors coincided with well-matched colors. KEY1 type persons chose KEY1 color, and KEY2 type person chose KEY2 color as the well-matched color. These results show that there is a meaningful relationship between the preferred color and well-matched color.
A Study on the Civil Costumes Appeared on Dutch Paintings in the 17th Century
Yoo, Joo-Lee ; Cho, Oh-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 37~47
In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.
A Study on the Indian Costume of the Central-South America
Sun, Jung-Hee ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 49~58
The purpose of this study is to investigate a variety of the Indian costume of the Central-South America and to examine the relation and symbolization of each Indian culture arrd costume. A study's method is to be examined through literatues related to the culture and history of Central-South America Indian, photos and references related to costume. The results are as follows. First, an analysis of Indian male of Central-South America reveals that costume types are different according to cultural areas. Second, an analysis Indian female of Central-South America reveals tlrat costume types are differerrt according to cultural areas. Third, a study on colors and patterns of Indian costume and personal ornament in Meso-America culture area reveals that they were influenced on the Maya and Aztec Civilizations. Fourth, a study on colors and patterns of Indian costume and personal ornament in Andes cultural area reveals that they were influenced on the Inca Civilization. Fifth, a type of ponchos is commonly revealed in Meso America and Andes cultural areas because of particular climate. Sixth, a study on Tropical costume types reveals that they are very different from those of Meso-America and Andes culture areas due to its climate and terrain conditions.
A Study on Fashion Design of the Movie, Emma's Image - Focusing on the Jane Austen's Emma -
Park, Sang-Young ; Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 59~66
The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.
A Study on Consumer Shopping Orientations of Non-store Shoppers
Lee, So-Jung ; Chung, Sung-Jee ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 67~76
The purpose of the study was to investigate customer shopping orientations of non-store shoppers and identify differences shopping orientations among groups determined by amount and frequency of purchase by various direct marketing media. The subjects were male and female consumers who aged over twenty and resided in Seoul, Kungki or Masan area. A questionnaire was developed by the researchers, and distributed to 770 people. A sample of 747 consumers responded to the questionnaire, and 732 questionnaires were used for analysis. Frequency count and percentage, factor analysis, analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Tukey's test were used for statistical analysis. Consumer shopping orientations were classified into 4 factors: pleasure, economy/value, and convenience I & II. Among groups of heavy shoppers, light shoppers, and non-shoppers, there were significant differences in their shopping orientations. Also, within groups, there were significant differences among their shopping orientation factors. All three groups had significantly stronger orientation toward convenience I than pleasure and convenience II. Also, within other purchase groups (fashion-good purchasers, other-good purchasers, and non-purchasers) showed the same shopping orientations as the former groups. On the basis of the above results, this study is expected to be useful for catalog retailers to develope effective marketing strategies and provide their customers new buying motives.
Factor Analysis for the Foot and Calf Growth of Primary-School Children
Park, Myoung-Ae ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 77~83
For the purpose of investigating the factor of foot and calf growth of primary-school children who are fastgrowing during this period, a group of the 1st graders of primary-school had been the subject of this measurement in 1995 and thereafter they became the subject again in 1997 when they were the 3rd graders. Measurement was carried out in 30 items including height and weight and marthin-type measurer and Footprint were used for this measurement. As the result, in the part of calf, the measuring items of maximum calf circumference and knee circumference, and in the part of foot, the items of instep circumference, heel circumference, instep circumference, measured angle of big toe showed the highest growth. The average growth of length for 2 years appeared about 2cm and the parts of instep circumference, heel circumference had rapidly grown rather than in the part of foot circumference. Height growth of the part of toe was about 0.1 and in the factor analysis of foot measurement of 8-year and 10-year and children, the following findings appeared in both cases that height was related with the items of calf height and foot length and weight was related with calf circumference and breadth, foot circumference items.
A Study about Current Putting on a Shroud
Nam, Min-Ye ; Baik, Young-Ja ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 2, 1999, Pages 85~90
A shroud is clothes for giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed:though our routine clothes have been western, putting on a shroud has been kept comparatively well as a tradition of a conventional ceremony garments. This study is about the current using of dressing a shroud, and for presenting foundations of a way about dressing a shroud in order to make the most of this by everyone, therefore this research will be worthwhile to preserve the traditional custom of giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed. 1. We must confirm the death of a person before we do Su-Si for controlling rightly a corse. Su-Si is ways of changing a clean clothes after bathing the dead person, tieing up hands, feet and ankles with a string, filling up a mouth, a nose and ears with a wad of cotton, laying down the dead person with his head toward east, and setting up a screen after covering the dead person with a bed sheet. 2. Here are processes of putting on a shroud. After the day of death, first of all, you must untie the string to control rightly a corpse, take off the clothes, and give a dead man a bath. You trim the dead person's fingernails and toenails, put them in O-nang, then put his hands and feet in five pouches, finally put feet in korean socks and wrap with Ak-su. You put a underwear in a overwear in order to put on the clothes easily, and then put on an upper garments after putting on trousers. And put on Sb-sin After you wash the dead person's face and his hair, you put gems and raw rice in his mouth, wrap head with cotton fabrics, and put hairs into five pouches, then put on a headgear which is filled with five pouches. 3. You tie up with hem cloth the dead person dressed a shroud after wrapping with Dae-ryum-km and So-ryumkm. 4. After you encoffin the dead person, you weave coffin strings with cotton fabrics in order to lift up the coffin easily, and lay down a red fabrics having white letters about the dead person's name or social position onto the coffin, then cover the coffin with a coffin cover : finally you leave the coffin at the former place and set up screen.