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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Lee Mi Suk
Volume & Issues
Volume 3, Issue 4 - Dec 1999
Volume 3, Issue 3 - Sep 1999
Volume 3, Issue 2 - Jun 1999
Volume 3, Issue 1 - Feb 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Conditions of the Cap Production
Jeong, Hye-Rak ; Yi, Chang-Mi ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 1~6
The study attempted to identify the present conditions and problems of existing cap makers and to find a way to resolve the problems by examining the actual state of their production activities, in order to present basic data for designing more comfortable caps. After a preliminary examination was carried out with college women in Taegu and Kyongbuk areas, seven cap makers who have launched their own individual brands were chosen, and a questionnaire was performed with them. The collected data was analysed, using the SAS program. The results showed that the sales of the makers increased each year but they had a little defect rates resulting from poor raw and sub-materials and were inactive in developing a material or design. It was analysed, therefore, that to produce high quality caps, it is urgently required to develop a new material and design.
A Study on the Forecasting of Export Demands for International Textile Products
Yang, Lee-Na ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 7~18
This study concerns the demand for Korean textile products in the USA, Japan, EU from 2000 to 2003. The result from the practice of study is as follows; The grand total export demand of textile product is estimated about U$7.2billion in 2000, U$8.5billion in 2003, and the annual growing rate is estimated 5.17%. The export of textile product to USA, Japan, EU, and other countries will be gradually increased from 2000 to 2003. Comparing to annual average export growing ratio, it is expected the ranks of annual average growing ratio as follows; The highest ratio is 8.35% in EU, the next 7.08% in other countries, 2.67% in Japan, and 2.51% in USA. It shows the change of the new countries to which our nation exports textile-products from the exportmarket structure of the present major export countries such as USA, Japan to EU and other nations. Also shows the same result in the export ratio by countries. The research predicts that the textile export portion will be decreased for our nation to USA and Japan while increased to EU and other countries.
A Review of the Changes of Fastening Types in Western Costume
Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 19~30
The purpose of this thesis is to overview the periodical changes of the fastenings, from the pins and buttons in ancient age to the velcro in these days, and to study the relationships of these various fastenings to the costume types, and also to research how it is applied to the latest fashion. The fastening is closely related to the costume types, being various in its form, like pins, fibula, brooches, buttons, lacing, points, hooks & eyes, press studs, zipper and velcro. It is clear from the fact that the fastenings have developed remarkably since 13th century when the costume became tightly fitting to the body, while the fastenings had been very simple, like buttons or fibula, for so long time from the ancient time to the 12th century. The end of fastening's development is to be fitting to the body and to make it easy to take on or off the costumes by use of it. In '99 S/S, '99-00 A/W
-porter collections, ornamental fastening was more emphasized then practical one, probably due to the development of more stretchable fabric.
A Study on Sizes Specifications of Infants' Apparels
Kim, Jin ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 31~39
The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze the general conditions of infants' apparel brands in Korea, review the sizes and specifications of each brand, analyze the differences and correlations among brands, and thereby, present the reasonable sizes and specifications for infants' apparels in consideration of domestic and foreign specifications and infants' health conditions. for this purpose, 13 brands manufacturing the apparels for the infants aged from 0 to 4 were sampled, and their design directors and outside pattern suppliers were surveyed through direct interviews. The collected data were processed for frequencies, mean, median and mode. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The sample infants' apparel brands were mostly launched as national brands in 1990's, while their target ages were diverse : 0
72 months, 0
36 months, 0
48 months, 0
60 months, 12
24 months, etc. 2. More brands were restructuring the pattern suppliers' sizes and specifications rather than developing them directly, which suggests that most of infants' brands depend much on pattern suppliers. 3. Infants' apparel brands were presenting the 'space suites' sized from #60 to #90 because consumers prefer those space suites distinct in their upper and lower parts and convenient for their toddlers aged 36 months or older. The brands were setting the sizes for 6 parts: total length, breast, sleeve length, hip, hip height, leg. 4. The sizes for infants' one-pieces were #70, #75, #80, #85, #90, #95, #100, #110 and #120, while their subsizes were determined for 4 parts: total length, breast, sleeve length, hip.
Job Content Analysis of Fashion Merchandisers
Lee, Yu-Kyung ; Chung, Sung-Jee ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 41~54
The purposes of the study were to investigate the job content of fashion merchandisers. The study examined the differences in the job content according to the types of merchandisers and their demographic characteristics. A questionnaire was developed by the authors and distributed to 150 fashion merchandisers, and 130 questionnaires were used for the study. The questions were revised through the pilot study and interviews with fashion merchandisers. The results of the study were as follows: Planning merchandise was the most important job to the planning merchandisers, purchasing merchandise to the buying merchandisers, planning sales and sales promotion to sales merchandiers. All three types of merchandisers were involved very much in the information analysis work. This study, on the basis of the above results, was expected to contribute to make the fashion merchandisers and students who want to be fashion merchandisers recognize their job content more clearly.
A Study on Street Fashion in Japan - Focusing on the 1980s -
Yum, Hae-Jung ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 55~66
The purpose of this study was to analyze the changes and characteristics of street fashion in Japan of the 1980s. The data were collected from the Mainichi Newspaper published in Japan from 1950 to 1990. The results were as follows: 1. After world war II, the street fashion had changed through the styles of the Panpan, Apres, Miyuki, Hippie & Hooten, Bikers in Japan. 2. The 1980s was characterized as an era of post industrial society and the appearance of Shinjinrui which means new human. In street fashion, these changes led to greater focus on unique style in Japan. In the 1980s, the street fashion had developed within four styles : traditional casual wear style, American sports wear style, performance.oriented style, and Japanese DC brand style in Japan.
Comparison of Job Stress and Job Turnover between Fashion Designers and Fashion Merchandisers
Ha, You-Sun ; Chung, Sung-Jee ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 67~81
Fashion designers and fashion merchandisers are the experts who play critical roles in the apparel industry. But their job turnover rate is quite high compared with other industries and/or other positions. The purpose of the study was to investigate the level and the major causes of job stress, and the causes of the high rate of job turnover of fashion merchandisers and fashion designers. The study also compared differences between the levels of job stress, job results and job turnover rate which perceived by fashion designers and fashion merchandisers. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The designers felt more role conflict than merchandisers during job and feel more job stress about career development and their income. 2. The designers feel their job achievement more positively than merchandisers. 3. The designers have their turnover intentions more frequently than merchandisers. This study, on the basis of the above conclusion, is expected to contribute to make fashion merchandisers and fashion designers recognize the importance of managing their job stress and their supervisor obtain the directions for the efficient management of personnel by offering them better working environment.
Job Characteristics of the Fashion Designers of Women's Wear Industries in Taegu
Kim, Soon-Boon ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 83~91
The purpose of this study is to provide some useful references to the educational field in terms of providing on analysis of job characteristics of fashion designers working in the women's wear industries. The data were collected from 102 fashion designers working in women's wear industries through the questionnaire and were analyzed by SPSS packages of frequencies and percentiles for comparative study, and the results are as follows: 1. The demographic characteristics of the fashion designers are; unmarried (80.4%), working less than 2 years (20.2%), completion of junior college(68.6%), majority ages between 20-24 yrs(43.1%). An average length of working in one company war less than 6 months. 2. The ratio computer usage of the design room was approx. 52.0% especially in the management of sales (52.9%) and the ratio in fashion design was approx. 17.6% in merchandising planning. 3. 76.4% of respondents was working 10 hours a day, and 50% of them was dissatisfied on the job caused by excessive working hour (31.4%) and job over load (35.3%). In the developing fashion design with the relation of actual job, insufficient knowledges of the concerned technical and production fields (68.6%) were indicated as the most difficult area. In addition, fashion magazines were considered as the most helpful resource(94.1%). 4. It was noted that the target age groups for the brand were clearly divided into two groups, notably the early and middle of twenties and the early and middle forties. Among the produced items, formal wears were accounted for 52.9%. 5. As far as the contents of job are concerned, the fashion designers are mostly engaged in purchasing textile, collecting informations of fashion, quality control, whereas their actual job is apparel design. 6. The training that the fashion designer received beside formal education includes attendance of private institutes(62.7%), OJT(7.8%), seminars(4.9%). Regarding formal education, the respond indicated that they had least opportunity to received computer training. 7. The necessary subjects in the schools for the fashion designers in relation to the current job were fashion information, merchandising planning, pattern making, cutting, fashion marketing, knowledges of clothing material in sequence. Subjects which are necessary for the further development include pattern making(21.6%), fashion marketing(14.7%), and designing with computer(7.8%).
A Study on the Purchasing Conditions of Infant's Wear
Kim, Jee-Yeon ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 93~101
The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 180 Korean mothers who bring up from newborns to fouryear-old babies were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the infant's wear and positively identify the factors affecting the practices. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage,
-test, Duncan's Multiple Range test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The mothers tend to gather the information from the items displayed(50.6%) in the stores. The criteria for purchasing considerably depends on the 2. The places of purchasing on which the mothers rely most for infant's wear are department stores(35.2%) and stores nearby their house(28.5%). The frequency of infant's wear depend on the change of season and necessity. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by the mothers is AGABANG(48.6%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are Design(53.1%). The most important reference affecting the mother's choice of infant's wear is size(51.1%) followed by functionality and price(26.7%). After the purchase, mothers are discontent with the high prices of infant's wear. In all, it has been found through this study that the behavior of number in purchasing infant's wear was influenced by many external factors. Therefore, manufacturers and retailers should manufcture and sell products that are of the highest quality. This must be their utmost concern for the satisfaction of their customers.
A Study on Fashion Design Using Logo
Lee, Mi-Sook ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 103~112
The purpose of this study is to investigate the various expressions in fashion design using logo. For this study, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, WWD, Hi Fashion, Mode et Mode, Fashion News, Collezioni were analyzed. A corporate identity consists of the logo and name owned by a company together with the rules and guidance on how these are to be used, for example in printed material such as letterheads, catalogues and reports, in advertising, marketing and promotion, and on produsts and services. Logos provide the bedrock for the development of corporate identities, for the evolution of commercial brands, and for the nurturing of corporate culture. Logo is a primary means of communicating corporate values to customers and designers. It represents an asset of incalculable value, because it has been consistently maintained and protected over the years. The logo is the cornerstone of the company‘s image and the style of a logo or products name must harmonize with the feeling of the product or brand image. Fashion designers today are using their logos in different forms of communication. It is common to see a brand’s logo proudly emblazoned the classic chic garments as well as accessories such as bags, shoes, caps. The consumer, then becomes a ‘walking ad’ for the brand.
A Study on the Design Changes and Characteristics of Modern Knitwears - Focusing on the1920's After -
Choi, Kyung-Hee ; Lee, Soon-Hong ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 113~129
The purpose of this study is to discover the changes and characteristis of modern knitwears from the 1920's to the 1990's. The result of this study is as follows: The popular knitwears in the 1920's had a simple boxy-line and modern unisex image with a sporty look. The knitwears in the 1930's-1950's had seen more short, feminine detail and texture, fit silhouette with syntheyic fibers. In the 1960's, the knitwears of sporty look and unisex style was popularized by young peaples, and crochet with handkniting by the fiber artists was popularized. In the 1970's-80's, the layered looks and unisex styles of knitwears were popularized by influence of a ecology mood and a woman movemant. And various patterns was developed with the computer machine. The items of outer knitwear was increased by the use of fancy yarns and the knitwears as the total fashion was popularized. In the 1990s, the knitwears had a very forceful characteristics by the mixed style and the technique of design developed into the post-modernism. The key words of the character of the modern knitwears are funtional pursuit, unisex, high value, hightechnique, art. By the change of the life style and the develope of technical innovation, the knitwears will be the key item to leading the fashion in the 21th.
A Study on the Comparison of Apparel Size among Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok College Women
Sohn, Hee-Soon ; Lim, Soon ; Kim, Hyo-Sook ; Son, Hee-Jeong ; Kim, Young-Sook ; Jang, Hee-Kyung ; Jung, Ryung ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 131~138
The purpose of this study is to measure Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women's body part sizes, and then, classify their body shapes according to the drop value(hip circumference-chest circumference) as well as their statures, and thereupon, comparatively analyze the statistical distribution of their major body part measurements and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to the development of quality fitting apparels exportable to China. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Most of Korean and Chinese college women were found to belong to the body type of "N" body shape, while many of Chosunjok college women belonged to "H" body shape body type characterized by normal stature but small difference between hip and chest circumferences. The most prevailing body type of Korean and Chinese college women next to "N" type(65%, 51%) was "H" (23%, 35%), followed by "A" type(12%, 14%), while that of Chosunjok college women was "H" type (54%), followed by "N" (40%) and "A" type (6%). On the other hand, in terms of distribution of major body part sizes, there was found a wide difference between Chinese and Korean college women. Chosunjok college women had similar body part sizes to Korean college women's in such measurements as waist back length, shoulder-to-shoulder length, front interscye length, back interscye length, under-chest circumference and weight, while having simliar body part sizes to Chinese college women's in such measures as stature, arm length, waist front length, waist side-hip line length, crotch length, head circumference, neck-root circumference and waist circumference.
A Study on the Patternwork Departments of Apparel Manufacturing Companies in Korea
Koh, Ji-Young ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 139~146
The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.
A Study on the Reflective Property of Trends in Fashion Shows - Focused on Three Designing Factor of the Silhouette, the Detail, the Color and the Fashion Image -
Lee, Myung-Hee ;
Fashion business, volume 3, issue 4, 1999, Pages 147~160
This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.