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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society of Fashion Business
Editor in Chief :
Lee Mi Suk
Volume & Issues
Volume 5, Issue 5 - Dec 2001
Volume 5, Issue 4 - Dec 2001
Volume 5, Issue 3 - Sep 2001
Volume 5, Issue 2 - Jun 2001
Volume 5, Issue 1 - Feb 2001
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Production of Made-to-measure Clothes for Middle-aged Women - Focused on Ready-to-wear Manufacturers -
Kim, So-Ra ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 1~13
The purpose of this study was to research production situation of made-to-measure clothes of ready-towear manufacturers for middle-aged women. This study will be the basis of developing production model of mass customized clothing for middle-aged women. For the questionnaire, 18 ready-to-wear manufacturers, which were producing made-to-measure clothes and in higher ranking of sales, were selected and the pattern makers of the manufacturers were questioned about 29 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1. The production ratio of made-to-measure clothes was increasing and most manufacturers have problems making fitted clothes for each customer. 2. The most common reason to order made-to-measure clothes was the sizes according to the various somatotypes and the proportion difference of a body. 3. The common somatotypes of upper body for made-to-measure clothes were obesity, large bust, bent forward posture, and leaning back posture. 4. The common somatotypes of lower body for made-to-measure clothes were obesity, prominent abdomen, prominent abdomen-prominent hip, and prominent hip. 5. Pattern making for made-to-measure clothes was to use production patterns or make new patterns.
A Study on the Boundary of Creative Designs in Contemporary Fashion Design
Shin, Young-Sun ; Kim, Ha-Jeong ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 14~26
A lot of designers are adopting a mixed imitation as techniques of cretion because cultural boundary and structure of meaning in the era of post-modernism are collapsed and dissolved. I raise up a question mark to how can genuine and creative designers can be identified at this epoch when we are today familiar with the trend of informationalization, opening and globalization. Characterisitics of multi-culturalism and compromising blending are meshed with appearance of a theory of disorganization and consumer-driven economic activity of multi-national enterprises in the age of post capitalism. Accordingly it can be said that designers are leaning upon public and consumeroriented pattern rather than pursuing a creative cultural production. With mass media in rapid advancement and public culture in father dissemination, mass production and mass re-production became a natural cultural phenomenon strengthen ing its root. Creative designers somewhat slow and limitative in pace of adaption to rapid changing society amid such social backgrounds and flooded information are coming to dead-end of wall. A mixed imitation as techniques of creation is a result of borrowing, duplicating or re-combining of existing things because the mixed imitation is equivalent to borrowing, copying, compilation and recombination of well-known artworks, motive, diverse people's cultural features, image, techniques and the likes. It is too delicate thing for one to definitely distinguish such cultural phenomenon from either one as creative work or a plagiarized work. Looking into the facts as they are, we should recognize the designers limitation in their creative works by means of the mixed imitation. thus we can have a view upon them from a criticizing standpoint against the designers creation and imitation. On the other hand, when we look at things how the mixed imitation appears in the fashion as a piece of culture, we can understand something of the contemporary designers. I try to find a significance in seeking out a method of approaching to creative fashion designers direction in future times.
A Study on the Metal Feathered Trim - Focusing on the Excavated Articles from the Old Tombs in Ancient Silla, Gaya -
Kim, Moon-Ja ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 27~36
The purpose of this study is to classify of the Metal Feathered Trim in old tombs. First, Feathered Trim is 5 types, Feathered Trim I-A, Feathered Trim I-B, Feathered Trim II-A, Feathered Trim II-B, Feathered Trim II-C in according to upper part of central insert plate style. Feathered Trim I-A, I-B, II-B type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in ancient Silla, Gaya. Feathered Trim II-A type was excavated from the only Silla tombs and II-C type was excavated from Gaya tombs. Feathered Trim I-A type was worn previous to I-B type, and II-B, C type was worn previous to II-A type. Feathered Trim 5 types was influenced by the scythe style that was 'Scythe-shaped' tail.
Relationship Marketing of Fashion Products on the Internet Shopping Mall
Kim, Il ; Moon, Jay-Hun ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 37~55
This study put its major concern in consumer behavior during a purchase of fashion products through the Internet marketing channels. Therefore, it investigated the Internet shopping and tried to find the reasons why clothes shopping through the Internet marketing channels is not popular enough. Then, alternative marketing strategies would be suggested which is accessible from the relationship marketing approach. The study adopted a qualitative research method to implement those purposes. In-depth interviews were conducted with the interviewees who had an experience of buying a fashion merchandise through the Internet or who had such an intention. And the information on stages of decision-making process and actual purchase was obtained by participating in and observing the process. The results revealed stages of decision-making in purchasing a fashion product through the Internet channels, the process of relationship development, and the elements of relationship marketing which affect purchase intention. The elements of relationship marketing to promote a purchase of a clothing product via the Internet marketing channels included convenience; communication and socal experience; sensual information; risk acknowledgement and pursuit for safety; and usage of complexed marketing channels. Based on these, a few strategic points such as remote reality, database of communication basis, strengthening individualized services, and development of complex marketing channels were suggested.
A Study on the Traditional Aesthetic Consciousness Reflected on the Contemporary Fashion - Focused on Comparative Research for Korea and Japan -
Yun, Bo-Yeun ; Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 56~72
The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.
An Analysis of the Female Consumers' Acceptance of the New Mode at a Turning Point of Fashion Trend - Focusing on the Minimalism-influenced Trend and Maximalism-influenced Trend -
Shin, Hyun-Sook ; Lee, Jooh-Yeon ; Suh, Yun-Jung ; Kim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 73~88
The purpose of this study was to analyze the consumers' acceptance of the new changes in fashion trend and to project the future possibility of them based on the result of the analysis. It was identified in the review of fashion trend that the major change in the recent fashion trend was the turning of focus from 'Minimalism-influenced' to 'Maximalism-influenced'. Total 176 of Korean women, who preferred 'Minimalism-influenced' or 'Maximalism-influenced' style, were sampled and asked to response on a self-report questionnaire with stimuli developed for this study. According to the respondents’ acceptance and preference of either one of the two streams, each respondent was allocated to one of the two groups which were named as 'Minimal-preference group' or 'Maximal-preference group'. The reasons of their preference, traits in trend-related attitude and demographic variables of both groups were analyzed and compared. The degree of clothing involvement and fashion leadership of Maximal-preference group, who accepted the new trend, were found to be significantly higher than those of Minimal-preference group. Maximal-preference group had significantly higher level of income and expenditure on fashion than Minimal-preference group. The motives and reasons for their acceptance of each stream were also analyzed.
A Comparative Study on the Anthropometric Method - Anthropometric Point and Line -
Kwon, Young-Ja ; Shim, Boo-Ja ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 89~100
The major purpose of this study is to show exact and convenient devices and minimize error in body measurement. This study was referred to 13 records and compared 6 items that the investigator's opinion has been differed about anthropometric point and line and suggested convenient and radical device, and measured by if need be. The 30 students from 20 to 25 ages were measured and data was analyzed by mean, std. deviation and paired t-test. The results are as follows. 1. Side neck point has been suggested many devices, but was suggested in this study to decide by M. trapezius, cervicale point and fossa jugularis point. 2. Shoulder point was suggested to decide by point of 1/2 armhole depth, upper arm depth and shoulder depth except acromion point. 3. Waist circumference line has been differed between horizontal line and natural line. The result of measurements was no significant difference between two methods and natural line was convenience. Waist circumference line must considered two methods together for garment construction and somato type. 4. The standard of hip circumference line has been differed between buttock point and trochanterion point. The result of measurements was significant difference between two methods, but two point must considered together because of body type. 5. Chest circumference line at scye has been differed between horizontal line and natural line. The result of measurements was significant difference between two methods and natural line was convenience. Chest circumference line at scye must studied to decide method the line for garment construction.
A Study of Formative Characteristics in the Art to Wear on Constructivism - Focusing on Russian Avant-Garde Artist -
Yang, Chieu-Kyung ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 101~117
Artist's creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920's culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article's performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.
A Study on the Production and Badness of Women's Jacket Manufacturing Companies
Shim, Jae-Hee ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 118~126
The purpose of this study, which is related with local women's jacket Manufacturing companies in Seoul and Kyeong-Ki areas, is for the research of general problems, badness in those companies, noticing products' quality level, and full solutions of luxurious sewing technology and high quality products. The results of this study are as follows. 1. Most women's jacket manufacturing companies are poor and producing system is on a changing trend to the pair system. 2. A wage level of inspectors are low compared with working experiences and working period is short compared with working experiences. So, the separation rate was high. 3. The inspection form is full style, but some companies are just inspecting samples or frequent check. 4. Insperation method is highly at the rate of self-inspection and head office inspection. There are inspects in their factories and companies, but some companies don't. 5. There are lots of badness styles such as shrinking of fabric, contaminating of product, dying of fabric, pressing. 6. A work standard, workers' technical education, and giving purposes to workers are demanded for avoiding of products badness.
A Study on the Common Features of Western Clothing Style and the Style of Korean clothing - Focusing on the Three Kingdom and Unified Shilla era -
Jeun, Jee-Eun ; Shim, Hwa-Jin ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 127~143
This thesis looks into the characteristics and compares the clothing styles between the Three Kingdom to the Unified Shilla era. The purpose of this study is to see what common themes exists between the foundation of Korean clothing and how it has evolved and through see to what extent the Chinese influence has been to Korean clothing culture. Also by explaining the originality and creativity of Korean clothing, we will be able to make clear the status of Korean culture. These findings include the following; 1. The Korean strait line Gik-ryong Kyo-im can also be found at the Gochang region in the west. 2. The Ban-ryong-ui, worn by the aristocrats of the Three kingdom and Unified Shilla era, began to appear from the nobles from the Nam-Buk cho(South-north era). This combined with a Bokdu(headwear) became a part of casual dress wear. 3. Go(pants) became a traditional part of clothing for Unified Shilla and the west. 4. Ban-bi and Bae-dang, all forms of Bansu-ui ( short sleeve), came from Chinas Kucha and Hotan and came to Korea. 5. Chinas Pae-baek and Pae-za (Shawl) which is the same as Unified Shillas Peo was also to be found to have come from the west. 6. The way a different color line was added to clothing both can be found in Korean and western clothing. Similarities to material used are; First, expensive wool was used and mostly originated from the west. From far away Rome came the O-saek-gae (Five-color wool). Secondly, Kong-gak me (peacock feather) and Bi-chi mo were all originated from the west. Third, Sil-sil is stated in the Sam-kuk Sa-ki (Three Kingdom records) as being prohibited to be worn by Jin-gol women (Highest nobility during Shilla era) as headwear or comb (pin) or as a comb(pin) for yuk-doo poom ( 6th class nobility) women. Suggesting that it existed and other sources tell us that it came from Tashkent region of Russia and was a jewelry of some sort. From what we have seen above, we can see the similarities between Korean and western clothing cultures and that these interactions not only occurred with China but with many other nations. We can see that our ancestors were creative and original that when importing foreign cultures that they transformed them into a Korean style. That these foreign cultures were transformed into our own style is good evidence to these facts.
A Study on Elderly Women's Breast Types and Their Brassiere Sizes
Park, Sung-Yi ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 144~157
The purpose of this study was to research on breast shape and size to suggest a brassiere sizing chart for elderly women. For this purpose 90 elderly women aged between 55 and 69 were sampled at random to review their breast types by age group, and thereby, suggest the basic measurements and production ratio of each brassiere size in reference to KS K 0070: 1999. The collected measurement data were processed statistically using the SPSS PC/WIN program for technical statistical analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysis of Breast Measurements To find out difference among age groups, the 90 subjects were grouped into three(Group 1 ; aged 55 to 59, Group 2 ; aged 60 to 64, Group 3 ; aged 65 to 69). The results of the comparative analysis of anthropometric data from three groups show that getting older;- Various length measurements related to the drooping degree of breast were increased. It was found that the older group in their 65-69's had more drooping breasts than their 55-59's or 60-64's counterparts. Such findings suggests that older women's drooping can be corrected by a brassiere which serves to support the breasts. 2. Suggestions on a Brassiere Sizing For the basic measurements of brassiere parts for the elderly women, the correlation between underchest circumferences and cup sizes were analyzed. 3% or higher occurrences among the whole sample elderly women were included in the brassiere sizes. thus, the under-chest measurements were set at four intervals from 75 to 95, while the cup measurements were determined also at four intervals from "AAA" to "B" sizes. The resultant 6 sizes excluding the least frequent occurrences covered 73.2% of the sample elderly women actual breast sizes. As a consequence of reviewing the production ratio of each brassiere size for the women, it was found that the brassiere size of highest production ratio was "85A" (17.4%), followed by 80A (14.5%), 85AA 90A (10.1%) and 75A (8.7%) in their order.
A Study on the Apparel Industry and the Clothing Culture of North Korea
Cho, Kyu-Hwa ;
Fashion business, volume 5, issue 4, 2001, Pages 158~175
The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.