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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 22, Issue 2 - Jun 1996
Volume 22, Issue 1 - Mar 1996
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THE DEPIGMENTATION EFFECT OF A NEW MATERIAL EXTRACTED FROM PAPER MULBERRY AND ITS COMPARISON BY THREE COLORIMETRIC INSTRUMENTS
Ha, J.H. ; Jo, N.S. ; Lee, H.K. ; Kim, J.I. ; Lee, B.G. ; Park, W.J. ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 9~19
The effect of the structure of each component on the o/w microemulsion droplet size and stability
Changgui Han ; You ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 20~40
The oil in water type ME of 4 component system was composed with POE monoalkyl ether and POE sorbitan monoalkyl ester as surfactant, saturated hydrocarbon, side chain structure and aromatic structure as oil, and glycerine as cosurfactant using high pressure homogenizer. The objective of this study was to examine the role of surfactant and oil structure on droplet size and stability. The experimental results showed that the droplet size was smaller with bigger polarity of oil, less hydrocarbon, longer hydrophilic chain of surfactant and higher concentration of glycerine. SQ and LP systems showed very stable but AB and ISB system unstable microemulsion.
Antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of Phaseolus aureus
Hong, In-Taik ; Kim, Beom-Jun ; Yu, Duck-Cho ; Kim, Jung-Haeng ; Kim, Jung-Han ; Heo, Moon-Young ; Lee, Song-Jin ; Kim, Hyun-Pyo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 41~51
Phaseolus aureus (mung bean), Leguminosae, has been used as an antidote from the ancient time. Especially, it has been widely used for cleaning face and skin in oriental countries. Although several constituents such as fatty acids, phytoallexin and phaseol derivatives were reported in P. aureus and related species including seedlings, there has been a few report to describe its biological activity. Therefore, in this investigation, the ethanol extract from P. aureus was obtained and its biological activities including the antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activities were studied. The 70% ethanol extract from P. aureus showed dose-dependent antioxidative activity (52.3% inhibition at 4 mg/ml) against lipid peroxidation assay, while the extract did not show the inhibitory activity of superoxide radical formation. The extract also showed the topical anti-inflammatory activity against croton-oil and arachidonic acid induced mouse ear edema test (18-19% inhibition at 7.5 mg/ear) as well as mild inhibitory activity against picryl chloride induced delayed hypersensitivity in mouse. For investigating active principles, vitexin and isovitexin (apigenin C-glycoside) as flavonoids, and adenosine were isolated from the extract using silica gel chromatography. The actual contents of vitexin and isovitexin were found to be 3.7 and 2.4 mg/g extract, respectively. Vitexin and isovitexin showed the antioxidative activity. They showed the topical anti-inflammatory activity, although the activities were not potent compared to the reference compounds. These results suggested that vitexin and isovitexin may be, at least in part, the compounds contributing the antioxidative activity in vitro and the topical anti-inflammatory activity of P. aureus in vivo. All results of present study might be one of the scientific rationale in using mung bean for skin care from the ancient time.
STUDIES FOR THE CHARACTER OF NANO-SIZED
PARTICLE SYNTHESIZED BY MICRO-EMULSION METHOD AND GOLD-DEPOSITED
Jhun, Hyun-Pyo ; Park, Jae-Kiel ; Lee, Kyoung-Chul ; Park, Jae-Eon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 52~69
particles with diameter between 2 and 5 nm are synthesized in Water/Triton X-100/n-Hexane microemulsion. Particles show the amorphous structure and partially hydroxide form. The optical absorbance of particles appears at 250nm and band edge at 340nm. Gold metal is deposited on the surface of TiO
particles by reduction reaction of Au(III) ion with sodium hypophosphite. The size of gold-deposited particles is 20nm, and the optical absorbance appears at 270nm and at 550nm. So particles show the red color. The dense precipitation is formed by aggregation in the TiO
nano-sized particles of about 5nm size. But the bulky precipitation is formed by agglomeration phenomena in the gold-deposited particles of 20nm size. And also gold-deposited particles is easily dispersed by being re-dispersed in PEG/Water solution. This study has compared those things measuring the SPF characteristics of the cosmetics made of the synthesized particles. If the particle size is controlled appropriately, then the SPF value will be higher, or more colorless cosmetics will be made.
Anti-melanogenesis effect of 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-3 [2H]-furanone
Jeon, Che-Ok ; Ohf, Ji-Yeon ; Koh, Jae-Sook ; Jung, Sung-Won ; Kim, Jung-Yeon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 70~75
DMHF (2.5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-3[2H]-furanone), an antioxidative compound from the reaction of L-cysteine/D-glucose scavenged efficiently 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl hydrazyl free radicals. It exhibited an inhibitory effect on the autoxidation of linolenic acid, and the protective effect against UV cytotoxicity in cultured human fibroblast. In addition, DMHF appeared to prevent the cellular melanogenesis in the cultured murine melanoma cells more effectively than kojic acid, a well known inhibitor of melanogenesis, while the former was not so effective as the latter for the inhibition of the tyrosinase. Considering that cellular melanogenesis is a metabolic process triggered by oxidative stress, it ovas tentatively deduced that the antioxidative property of DMHF might afford the effect against cellular pigmentation by alleviating the causative stress. In toxicological tests such as irritation and sensitization, this compound turned out to be safe. The results of this study suggest that DMHF may be a novel inhibitor of melanogenesis, and that night be useful for application in cosmetics.
Studies on the Darkness of the Face Skin by the influence of External Environments
Namgung, Ju. ; Lee, K.K ; Shin, L.Y ; Kim, J.H. ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 76~88
The facial color is affected by age increase, health condition, internal and/or external environment factors and so on. Especially, the external environment factors in accordance with the influence of environment pollution that is air pollution, exert a bad influence of skin. The object of this study shall be quantified the facial color change in accordance with age increase, external environment factors. Therefore we have make the measurement about the facial color change of Korean women by regional groups. We've quantified through correlation equation, the rate of the many external environment factors which influence the facial color change (air pollution, climate condition, season etc.) As the result of the study, we have reach to know that CO,
has high relation with hue, value, chrome change. The facial color change is proved to be influenced atmospheric environment condition. Besides in hue and value in relation with meteorology demonstrates its link with the temperature, the evaporation quantity, the duration of sunshine of each region. Therefore we have instill cognition of the environmental pollution in accordance with external environment factor that was quantified. And we have reach to know this study affects cosmetics development of new concept.
Development of Novel Polymeric Sunscreen Agent
Hyo-Joong Kim ; Hye ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 89~98
A novel polymeric sunscreen agent was developed. It was prepared by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride(PVBC, average MW 6,500). In this reaction the reactivity was mostly affected by catalyst. In the absence of catalyst the yield was approximately 55% and in the presence of tetrabutylammonium bromide the yield was about 65%, but in the presence of tetrabutylammonium iodide the yield was 100% to give a average molecular weight 20,000 polymeric sunscreen agent. There were no side reactions, and its structure and purity were confirmed by various analytical methods, such as NMR, IR, and so on. UV radiation absorption efficiency is more than 70% compared with that of octyl methoxycinnamate. The solubility in polar oil, for example C12-15 alkylbenzoate and caprylic/capric triglyceride, is more than 50%. It showed high stability in the time course of test including acceleration test. This polymer is safe to skin because of poor permeability to skin, no side products in the process of preparing, and easy elimination of excess starting materials.
Stability and Formation Mechanism for MLV liposomes with Phospholipid Film by Use of the Microfluidizer
Kim, In-Young ; Seo, Bong-Seok ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 99~114
The MLV liposomes have been developed in many drugs and cosmetics fields. The phospholipid base is made from ceramides, cholesterol, cholesteryl ester, lecithin, lanolin ester, and B-sitosterol, and surfactants are made by using (PEG)n-sitosterol(n=5) and K-cetyl phosphate. We made visicles stable by passing samples through Microfludizer and croated multilamellar vesicles to make MLV liposomes similar to the structure of men's skin. In order to make MLV liposomes, we created lipid membrane films which a mixure of phospholipid base and polyol group was reacted above Tc(95
) by gelation for 3 hours. As the optimum conditions of Microfluidizer, we figured out 700 bar for the passing pressure of samples, 4
for its temperature, and 3 times of frequency to pass through samples. Our MLV liposomes is stable on conditions of a low temperature(5
) and a high temperature(45
), which is not to be split in a large range. We produced our own moisturizing cream which has a good affinity to skin by means of this system.
Biological screening of 100 plant extracts for cosmetic use (1) Antioxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity
Kim, Jeong-Ha ; Kim, Beom-Jun ; Seok, Chung-Hyun ; Won, Il ; Kim, Jeong-Haeng ; Kim, Hyun-Pyo ; Heo, Moon-Young ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 115~123
Methanolic aqueous extracts of 100 plants were screened for antioxidative activity using Fenton's reagen/ethyl linoeate system and free radical scavenging activity using DPPH free radical generating system. The results suggest that at least six plants including Eugenia caryophyllata, Alpinia offiicinarum, Rhus verniciflua, Curcuma longa, Rheum palmatvm and Evodia officinalis may be the potential sources of antioxidant, But only one plant, Cornus officinalis, may be the potential source of free radical scavenger from natural plants.
Natural Make-up Film Formation Using properties of Treated Powders and HLB Values of Binding Agents
Kim, S.N. ; Bae, H.G. ; Liivi, J.M. ; Lee, M.K. ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 124~131
Effects on Skin Irritation and Turnover Rate by the Control of Skin Permeability of Alpha-hydroxyacids
Cheon-Koo Lee ; Seo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 132~140
The effect of a novel delivery system, water in oil emulsion containing chitosan hydrogel as a inner phase (W/O-C) was evaluated, and the relationships between the skin permeation, the skin primary irritation and the skin turnover rate of AHAs were discussed. We selected glycolic acid (GA), lactic acid (LA), malic acid (MA), and tartaric acid (TA) as model AHAs. The steady state fluxes of 4 AHAs across the excised hairless mouse skin increased as the molecular weights of the AHAs decreased. (GA>LA>MA>TA). The skin turnover times were shortened in all AHAs, compared with control. The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of the LA decreased and the skin turnover time increased, as the pH increased. The maximum therapeutic index was obtained with pH 3.8, 0.5 M LA. It was suggested that the skin permeability of LA might be a main factor for prediction of the skin irritation and the skin turnover time. On the other hand, the W/O-C containing pH 3.8, 0.5 M LA indicated a good sustained release property of LA, compared with water in oil emulsion without chitosan hydrogel (W/O) or oil in water emulsion (O/W). The skin permeability and the skin irritation of AHAs from the W/O-C edcreased, compared with W/O or O/W, however the skin turnover time showed almost the same value as W/O or O/W. In conclusion, we suggest that the control of the skin permeation of AHAs would be an important tool for reducing the skin irritation and for maintaining the positive effect of AHAs, and the W/O-C system could be a potential candidate for future cosmetological application of AHAs.
STUDIES ON THE SKIN TROUBLE AND THE FACIAL COLOR CHANGE DUE TO HORMONAL CYCLE IN FEMALE
Lee, Kun-Kook ; Shin, Lee-Young ; Gung, Ju-Nam ; Kim, Jung-Hang ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 141~152
Many eastern females concern themselves about the condition and the color of their skin. The purpose of the present study is to classify the skin trouble and the change of the facial color due to hormonal cycle in female. We examined the actual cricumstances by questionnaires, and made patch tests of methyl nicotinate, representing rubefacient, to estimate the epidermal penetratin rate, and measured the facial color change during the menstrual cycle period to invest the correlation factors between skin trouble due to cosmetics and facial color change. Fifty-two percent of subjects had skin trouble relating to cosmetics. One second of subjects with skin trouble due to cosmetic complained the change of sysptom by menstrual cycle. The changes of systptom were related on premenstrual period. The skin trouble developed mainly on the first trimester of the pregnancy. In patch test of methyl nicotinate, most cases showed decreased threshold of the reaction on minstruation, and other cases showed increased reactivity of the skin of menstruation. In facial color measurements, it proves in the appearance of red spot, darkness, increasing the value and turning the hue to yellowish, Also it demonstrates that premenstruation hue turn red and value level decrease. During the period, facial color turns pale and hue progress to yellow. This fact coincides with the questionnaire. We have quqntified through questionnaire, which demonstrates it has good correlation with done to the subjects among the internal environment factors hormonal cycle influences the facial color change and the skin trouble due to cosmetics. Through this paper the development of an more fragmented make-up and skin care products is required to increase the interest to females, to make true the creation of beauty.
Determination of panthenol, cholecalciferol and tocopherol in cosmetic products by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in SIM mode
Hye-Jin Jeong ; Myo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 153~160
A novel simple method to detect vitamins in cosmetic products by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry(GC-MS) has been developed. Three vitamins(panthenol, cholecalciferol and tocopherol) were used for this study. Vitamins were prepared by dissolving in tetrahydrofuran(THF), and silylated with bis-trimethylsilyltrifluoroacetamide-trichloromethylsilane(BSTFA). Silated vitamins were separated on a fuses-silica capillary column coated with DB-5. The identification of each vitamin was accomplished by retention time and mass spectrum library search with a computer, and the quantitation was made in the selected-ion monitoring(SIM) mode of GC-MS. SIM mode had given sensitivity to determine 50pg of panthenol, 285pg of cholecalciferol and 130pg of tocopherol. Linearity was maintained over the range 0.005-0.20% for each vitamin. Each cosmetic product(i.e. hair tonic and lotion) was found to contain amounts of the vitamins. This method was sensitive and gave 77.5-99.9% recovery of each vitamin from these cosmetic products. From these results, we concluded that silylation with BSTFA followed by GC-MS analysis allows the simple, covenient and exact determination of panthenol, cholecalciferol and tocopherol.
The wound healing and anti-inflammatory effects of Panax ginseng C.A Meyer
Oh Ji-Yeon ; Jeo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 161~166
Ginseng has been used as miraculous panacea since ancient times in oriental countries. In spite of voluminous work, ginseng still remains mysterious herb, but its value is becoming more recognized in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. In this study, we investigated the effect of Panax ginseng on wound healing using two experimental methods. First, we studied the effect of ginseng on artificial wound of cultured human keratinocyte monolayer. Indivisual components from ginseng (ginsenoside Rb2, Rc, Re, Rg1, and panasenoside) and giseng extrats were examined. Of them, compared with control, ginsenoside Rb2 and Rg1 needed much shorter time to recover original appearance of momolayer. Second, we investigated the effect of ginseng on acute injury on dorsal skin of hairless mice. We here observed that ginseng has prominent effect than Madecasol(asiaticoside), a well known wound healing agent. These results were deduced that ginseng promoted wound healing in the wound region due to its stimulation of biosynthesis of various endogeneous materials that have relation to wound healing. Furthermore, we conformed that ginsenoside Rg1 exhibited anti-inflammatory activity on rat paw edema induced by carageenan. These results suggest that Panax ginseng C.A Meyer can be used in the cosmetics in that its wound healing and anti-inflammatory effects.
Study on the Evaluation of Stability of Gel Structured Cosmetics
Park, Chan-Ik ; Kim, Ki-Sun ; Lee, Sung-Jun ; Yoon, Myeong-Suk ; Kang, Seh-Hoon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 167~173
The stability of gel structured emulsion and the effect of polyols on it have been studied by rheological property and interfacial tension. In this paper, three types of gel structured emulsions were prepared by using three polyols respectively(glycerine for sample 1, 1.3 BG for sample 2, PG for sample 3). And both complex modulus(
) and loss angle[
= tan-1(G"/G')] of samples were investigated against oscillating shear stress and frequency(
). The results show sample 1 is most highly consistent with oscillating shear stress. And the results were compared with those of accelerated tests concerning storage stability of gel structured emulsion. To correlate consistency of rheological property with storage stability, interfacial tension from which adsorption efficiency of surfactant(Octyldodecyl Ether) could be known was measured. Sample 1 showed the largest value of [
] in Gibbs equation. In summary, the prediction of stability could be correctly made by the consistency of rheological property(G*,
) of gel structured emulsion against oscillating shear stress and it could be supported by measuring interfacial tension. And polyol affected the value of [
], consequently affected the stability.lity.
The Synthesis and Safety of 3-Aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate, a New Anti-aging Agent
Pyun Young Hoon ; Ko ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 174~181
The novel synthesis of 3-aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate(3-APPA; 3-Aminopropane phosphoric acid), and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy and toxicology were presented. The phosphorylation of 3-amino-1-propanol was carried out via cyclization into 6-membered 2, 6-oxaza-phosphoryl ring in the presence of phosphorous oxychloried and an organic base. The subsequent ring-opening hydrolysis and crystallization afforded the highly purified product in 90% isoloated yield. The method is much superior to the previous literature phosphorylation methodsm, as the procedure is simple and high-yielding. To confirm the efficacy of 3-APPA, several activities related to anti-aging capacity were measured. In-vitro human fibroblast, linear and 3-dimensional collagen matrix culture revealed that 3-APPA stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts, and enhanced the synthesis of collagen, which showed 3-APPA's potency for skin wrinkle reduction. The toxicolgical aspect of 3-APPA was also extensively examined. In vivo toxicity tests such as acute oral toxicity, eye irritation, human patch, and the repeat insult human patch test proved 3-APPA to be a safe material. Thus 3-APPA can be used as an effective anti-aging agent for various cosmetic formulations.
OBSERVATION OF THE SWEATING IN LIPSTICK BY SCANNING ELECTION MICROSCOPY
Seo, Su-Yeon ; Lee, In-Suk ; Sin, Hyeon-Jong ; Choe, Gyu-Yeol ; Gang, Se-Hun ; Ahn, Ho-Jeong ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 182~192
In this study, the relationship between wax matrix in lipstick and sweating was investigated by observing the change of size and shape of wax matrix with sweating by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). For observation by SEM, a lipstick sample was frozen in liquid nitrogen, then the oil in the lipstick was extracted out in cold isopropanol(
) for 1-3days. After isopropanol was evaporated, the sample was sputtered with gold, and examined by SEM. When examined the sweated sample by SEM, the change of wax matrix underneath the surface from fine, uniform structure to coarse, nonuniform structure was observed, which was resulted from the caking of surrounding wax matrix. That is, the oil underneath the surface was migrated to the surface of lipstick with sweating, consequently the wax matrix at that region was rearranged into the coarse matrix. In case of flamed lipstick, sweating was delayed and the wax matrix was much coarser than that of unflamed one. Its larger wax matrix at surface region was good for including oil. The effect of molding temperature on sweating was also studied. As the molding temperature was increased, sweating was greatly reduced and the size of wax matrix was increased. It was also found that sweating was influenced with the compatinility of wax and oil. A formula consisting of wax and oil which have good compatibility has a tendency of reduced sweating and increased size of wax matrix. When pigment was added to wax and oil. It was also found that sweating was influenced with the passage of time by observing a thick membrane of wax on surface of lipstick after a month from molding. In case of some lipsticks, the size of wax matrix was altered to bigger or smaller. In conclusion, the structure of wax matrix at the surface region of lipstick was changed with the process of foaming, molding temperature, compatibility of wax and oil, addition of pigment, and the passage of time. In most cases, as the size of wax matrix was increased, sweating was reduced and delayed.
Biological screening of 100 plant extracts for cosmetic use (II) Inhibitory activities of tyrosinase and DOPA autooxidation
Seok, Chang-Hyun ; Won, Ii ; Kim, Jeong-Ha ; Kim, Beom-Jun ; Kim, Jeong-Haeng ; Heo, Moon-Young ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 193~200
In eastern Asian region, cosmetic preparations containing the molecues possessing the whitening activity are promising. In this study, 100 plant extracts were screened in order to elucidate the whitening effects using in vitro tyrosinase assay and DOPA autooxidation. Several plant extracts such as Morus alba, Glycyrrhiza glabra showed the inhibitory activity (>50%) against mushroom tyrosinase at the concentration 333
/ml. And plant extracts including Morus alba and Bupleurum falcatum showed the inhibitory activity (>50%) at the concentration of 500(
/ml against DOPA autooxidation. The IC50 values of the several extracts were also found.
Three Predictive Tests Using Mice for the Identification of Contact Sensitizer
Jung-Hyun Shin ; Min ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 22, issue 2, 1996, Pages 201~210
Predictive tests for the identification of contact sensitizing chemicals have been developed. We measured the sensitization potential with three predictive tests, the in vitro and the in vivo Local Lymph Node Assay(LLNA), ELISA to detect interferon-gamma(IFN-
) from supernatant and flow cytometry to detect change of cell surface proteins, using draining lymph nodes of mice. BALB/c mice were exposed to various chemicals or vehicles on the ears daily for 3 consecutive days in all experiments. With some exceptions of propyl paraben, neomycin sulfate, the in vivo LLNA was able to detect the sensitizing capacity of test chemicals and was more sensitive than the in vitro LLNA for chemicals used in the present study. In another experiment, contact sensitivity was assessed by the ELISA to detect IFN-Υ from the supernatants of the cultured LNCs after sensitization with chemicals. There was a good correlation between the LLNA and the IFN-Υ production for test chemicals. We also examined the change of cell surface proteins on LNCs after sensitization by flow cytometry for some cell adhesion molecules(ICAM-1, E-cadherine, B7 molecule), T cell markers(CD3, CD4, CD8, T
) and B cell markers(LR1, CD45R, I-Ad). The number of ICAM-1 positive cells and B cells in LNCs were increased after sensitization with DNCB, TNCB, isoeugenol and 25%, 50% cinnamic aldehyde compared with that of vehicle as a control. In conclusion, the in vivo LLNA could provide more sensitive screening test for moderate to strong sensitizers and some weak sensitizers including cosmetic raw materials than the in vitro LLNA. The production of IFN-Υ by allergen-activated LNCs might be a values indicators without radioisotopes for the identification of contact allergens. Detection of allergens by testing the increase of ICAM-1 positive cells and B cells in LNCs by flow cytometry might be used as a test method to detect allergens.