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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 23, Issue 3 - Sep 1997
Volume 23, Issue 2 - Jun 1997
Volume 23, Issue 1 - Mar 1997
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The Dffects of Retinoids on CRABPII cRNA Induction amd Collagen Synthesis on Human Dermal Fibroblast
jae-Sung Hwang ; iyo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 9~23
Retinoids are essential regulators of spithelial cell growth and celluar differentiation. They are also known to be effective in photoaging. It was reported that topical application of retinoic acid improves facial wrinkle carsed by collagen synthesis reduction in photodamaged skin. Collagen synthesis by retinoic acid may contribute to the wrinkle effacement. Since celluar retinoic acid binding protein II is slsctively induced in human skin and dermal fibroblasts in vitro by retinoic acid, this response can be used to mesure retinoids potency and activity. In order to know the activity of retinoids and their relations with collagen synthesis, we treated dermal fibroblasts with retinoids for 48 hours at 10-6-10-7M and measured CRABPII mRNA level by quantitative Nortern blotting. We also measured the rate of collagen systhesis by retinoids using 3-dimensional dermal equivalent. CRABPII mRNA level was increased 3-fold by retinoic acid, 2.1-fold by retinol and 1.4-fold by retinaldehyde. Collagen systhesis was increased 34% by all-trans retinioc acid, 26% by retinol, 17% by retinaldehyde and 7% by retinyl palmitate. From the above results, retinoids were found to be a potent indecers of CRABPII mRNA and collagen synthesis. Though retinoic acid was the most effective, its use has been restricted because of the side effects. Instead, retinol can be a best candidate in cosmetics for the treatment of photodamaged skin in terms of efficacy and safety.
The stabillty of Double-Capsulated Retinol on O/W Eulsion
Park, Dong-Soon ; Lee, Ok-Sub ; Kang, Hak-Hee ; Kim, Jong-Il ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 24~38
Using the all-trans-retinol which is double-capsulated with matrix, we investigated its stability and the change of the epidermal thickness. The proprietary MDC comprise two steps of capsulation of retinol, i.e., primary microcapsulation with collagen and then secondary capsulation with gellan gum. We compared the activity of all-trans-retinol in various forms such as (1) simply in O/W, (2) in W/O emulsion, (3) in primary capsulted form in O/W emulsion, or (4) in MDC in O/W emulsion. After storage at 45
for 4 weeks, retinol in MDC in O/W emulsion retained 92% of the activity compared to the standard material upon HPLC analysis, whereas the primary capsule gave 70%, the O/W emulsion form 47% and the W/O emulsion 78%. The retinol in MDC in O/W induced the siginificant increase in epidermal thickness compared to the vehicle.
CLINICALI MPROVEMENT OF SKIN AGING BY RETINOL CONTAINING PRODUCTS: WITH NON- INVASIVE METHODS
Sun, B.K. ; Lee, H.K. ; Cho, J.C. ; Kim, J.I. ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 39~47
Retinol as well as RA is well known to have many beneficial effects on aged skin. But the skin irritation potential and unstable condition of the products containing them have been some problems in their cosmetic uses. So, retinol containing gel product was developed for less skin irritancy and more stability in cosmetic products. To examine the clinical effects of retinlo containing product, we used cilnicla non-invasive assessment techniques on 40 volunteers for 6 months maintaining double-blind test conditions. According to our results, the use of retinol containing product improved skin color and hydration level slightly. But there was no statistical differences. There was no erythema reaction compared to the use of RA. Especially, the skin elasticity increased above 20% and skin wrinkles of crows' feet region decreased more than 10%. Besides the instrumental analysis, a large majority of volnteers felt that their skin were improved in the case of wrunkles, elasticity, hydration and color.
STUDY ON STABILITY, EFFICACY, AND EFFECT OF A CREAM CONTAINING 5% OF RETINYL PALMITATE
Ji, Hong-Keun ; Jeon, Young-Hwan ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 48~74
Retinlyl Palmitate, the skin normalizerm is useful to promote greater skin elasticity, to diminish lipid peroxidation and skin roughness following UV exposure, and promote a youthfulgeneral skin appearance. In manufacturing creams, Retinyl Palmitate, which is a derivative of retinol, is used since reionol is easily oxidized by heat and light. However, only a small mount of retinol, is used since using a large amount of it may be harmful to its stability. In this study, thermal stability and UV stability of W/O-, W/S-, O/W-, and MLV-type creams containing 5% of retinyl palmitate and 10% of tocopheryl acetate are measured by Chroma Meters, and the content of RP is quantitatively analyzed by HPLC at 25
. Also, how RP has been changed by heat, light, etc. is measured by HPLC, and toxicity of the changed substance is studied. Particle size of each type of the cream if measured, cellular renewal is measured by using DHP and Chroma Meters in order to study their efficacy and effect, moisture content is measured by using Corneometer and Tewameter, and how much wrinkles are improved is studied by using Image Analyzer. Development of MLV-type cream containing 5% of RP and 10% of TA, and satisfying conditions for better creams has been successful.
APPLICATION OF RERFLUOROPOLYMETHYLISOPROPYLETHER TO HAND CARE CREAM USING ABSORPTION AND DISPERSION
Ahn, Baek-Sun ; Sliin, Dong-Ug ; Jo, Pan-Gu ; Kim, Sang-Je ; Lim, Ho-Soon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 75~81
It has been used that fluorinated compounds could be applied to cosmetic products. It is that fluorinated conpounds are hydrophobicity and lipophobicity. These fluorinated compounds are reported to form a highly protective and effective film against most aggressive chemical and physical agents. PerfluropolymethyoisopropylEther has homophobicity and are colorless, odorless, tasteless and non-greasy. In this we made a success to formulate the new type of hand care cream using PFPE. PFPE are suitable thickness and chemical inertness to skin. The reason that we select PFPE for this investigation. We developed the new type hand care cream by adsorption and dispersion of PFPE. There are very stable dispersion and highly moisture diffusion control. And these characteristics were verified by actual consumer test.
Brazilin as a new sunless tanning agent
Lee, Kang-Tae ; Kim, Jeong-Ha ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 82~85
To develop an active material for skin darkening, we examined the effect of 300 plants on tyrosinase activity and found only Caesalpinia sappan has an ability to increase tyrosinase activity highly and melanin contents in B-16 melanoma cells. A compound increasing tyrosinase activity and melanin production was isolated from Caesalpinia sappan Lignum. Brazilin was identified as a new active agent. Brazilin increases the tyrosinase activity and malanin production of B-16 melanoma cells. In conclusion, it seems that brazilin cal be used as a new sunless tanning agent.
Development of Whitenin Agents by Synthesis of Polyhydroxy Aromatic Compounds
Hyun-Ho Lee ; You ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 86~91
Some natural polyhydroxy aromatic compounds have inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, key enzyme for formation of melanin pigment. We examined the structure-activity relationship of the natural polyhydrowy aromatic compounds and synthesized a number of new derivetives through various methods. Skin lightening effects of these compounds were examined through inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory of melanogenesis on B-16 melanoma cells. These new compounds showed strong inhibitory activity against tyrosinase. Good lightening effects sue to inhibition of melanogenesis were observed from several resorcinol and pyrogallol derivatives. In toxicological tests such as skin primary irritation and sensitization, the above compounds were sufficiently safe for cosmetic use.
Novel Pseudoceramides And Their Synthesis Using Alkyl Ketene Dimer
Park, Byeong-Deog ; Lee, Ki-Mu ; Park, Ik-Ju ; Song, Young-Jin ; Lee, Jung-Suk ; Lee, Myung-Jin ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 92~96
Nowadays, ceramides have been found to be an important component in the outermost layer of the skin - the stratum corneum. It is undersrood that ceramides play an important role in structure and maintenance of the interellular lipid lamella structure in the SC layer. Thus, many efforts have been made by the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries to get human skin-identical ceramides or pseudoceramides which show similar performance with natural ceramides. The purpose of our study was to systhesize new pseudoceramides via an effective and economical systhetic pathway and to show their performance of skin restoratio. Four kinds of the new pseudoceramides were synthesized by the reaction of alcoholic amine and alkyl ketene dimer. First of all, PC-4 and PC-5 were synthesized by the reaction of 3-amino-1,2-propanidiol and serinol with alkyl ketene dimer respectively. After that, PC-4R and PC-5R were produced by changign kitone group at
-position to amide bond of above synthesized PC-4 and PC-5 into hydroxyl group using NaBH4 respectively. Their expected structures were conformed by the NMR, IR spectra, and elemental analysis. A study to show the restoration effectiveness was performed in which human skin was pretreated with high concentration of SDS surfactant solution. Using 0.5% solution of above synthesized pseudoceramides, there was the significantly faster restoration of the damaged than that of placebe itself treatment.
In vitro cell recovery methoc as an altermative to human damaged skin recovery test
An, Su-Sun ; Nam, Ki-Taek ; Park, Jong-Ho ; Koh, Jae-Sook ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 97~100
These days, the raw materials that have the cell recovering effect are used commonly in cosmetics. In this study, six materials were rested for the characteristics of recovering effect both on vivo and in vitro. Tested raw materials were Soypol, 3-APPA, Apple extract, Polygonatum japonicum extract, Scutellarkd baicalensis extract, Aloe extract. Among these materials, Soypol and 3-APPA were synthesized and others were made by extraction at the Pacific R&D Center. Human forearm skin and cultured skin cell were damaged by sodium lauryl sulfare and then raw materials were applied for open treatment on SLS damaged human skin or cells. The recovering effects of raw materials in vivo were evaluated by measuring transepidermal water loss, skin hydration and erythema and in vitro effects of proliferationg cells were assessed by neutral red uptake assay. In the in vivo study, only the evaluation by TEWL showed correlation with the visual score. Our of six materials, 3-APPA had the most positive effect in both in vivo and in vitro studies and the correlation was r=0.8286 (p=0.042).
The Stydy on Application to Cosmetics of Phellinus Iimteus
Young-Ho Cho ; Chu ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 101~107
Phellinus linteus was artificially cultivated in kangwon province in Korea. The air-dried phellinus linteus was frozen in liquid nitrogen tank and powdered in jar. 10g of the powder was extracted with each 200g of ethanol, methanol, distilled water and 1,3-butylene glycol/distilled water 4 hours under refluxing and then the liquidextract was concentrated under reduced pressure. As a result of analysis by high performance liquid chromatography and thin layer chromarography, many kinds of sugar and flavonoids were detected. Also we knew that phellinus linteus' extract had a strong UV-ray absorption. In the efficacy test for applying to cosmetics, free radical scavenging effect was confirmed. As a result, 2% of sample was the most potent inhibitory effect and the free radical savenging activity, was 0.31%. This is more effective than any other meterial. In the test of antioxidative activity against lipid autoxidation, phellinus linteus' extract had a good effect by 46% while vitamine E was 42.3%. The immunological activity of phellinus linteus was showed through the activation of macrophage cell. Actually, phellinus linteus activated macrophage function of 1.1-1.8 times including nitrite production compared to control. The whitening effect of phellinus linteus was showed through the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, melanin biosynthesis of S. bikiniensis and B-16 melanoma cells. Phellinus linteus' extract was showed strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity with IC50 value of 0.5% and inhibited melanin biosynthesis with 28mm inhibition zone at 0.005%/paper disc in S. bikinniensis, a bacterium used as an indicator organism in this work. Also it inhibited melanin biosynthesis in B-16 melanoma cells with a minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.134%.
Reduction of Skin Irritation by the Control of Skin Permeation of Methyl Paraben
Seong-Hoon Jeong ; Mun ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 108~114
The skin permeation study has two meanings in cosmetics. One is how to promote the skin permeation of active meterials for improving their bioavailabilities and the other is how to decrease it of irritants for reducing their skin side effects. In this study, we selected methyl paraben, one of the preservatives, as a model irritant and tried to reduce the skin irritation by the decrease of skin permeation. Furthermore, the relationship between skin permeation and skin primary irritation was discussed. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz type diffusion cells and the excised skin of female hairless mouse from 8 weeks old were used. The donor compartment was charged with oil only or O/W emulsion containing 0.3% MP. We selected 19 oils, including esters, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbons, and alchols, which are broadly used in cosmetics. We evaluated with female guinea pig. The skin permeahility of MP from the oils showed following order: ester oils > triglycerides > plant oils > hydrocarbons > alcohols. We considered that this result was based on the different effect of each oil on the barrier function of stratum corneum. In O/W emulsion containing each oil, the skin permeability of MP decreased as the oil/water partition coefficient of MP increased. The skin primary irritation increased as the skin permeability of MP increased. In conclusion, we suggest that the skin irritation could be reduced by the decrease of skin permeability of MP, which may be obtained by the good selection of oils in cosmetic preparations.
The Effects of Whitening Compoments on Human Melanocytes on virto
Cho, Joon-Hwan ; Lee, Ki-Moo ; Kim, Nam-Soo ; Kang, Won-Hyoung ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 115~121
To identify inhibitors of melanogenesis, we compared the effects of 5 compounds on mushroom tyrosinase, human melanocytic tyrosinase activity and melanin content. The cytotoxicyty of the components were also tested on cultured human melanoctes. Kojic acid showed marked inhibitory effect both on mushroom and human tyrosinase activity. This action of kijic acid is stronger than that of ascorbic acid. Arbutin inhibited human tyrosinase activity of cultured melanocytes although it had slightly inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase activity. Azelaic acid had no effect on human tyrosinase activity. Melanin production was inhibited significantly by kojic acid and tranexamic acid. MTT assay showed that all of the compounds were non-cytotoxic to melanocytes at the concentrations tested. These results suggest that the effect of kojic acid on cultured meanocytes involve inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis without affection the cell number.
Antomicrobial Activity amd Preservative Dffects of chitosan on cosmetic Products
Lee, Bum-Chun ; Pyo, Hyung-Bae ; Lee, Chung-Wu ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 122~127
Chitin and chitosan have been almost neglected until 1960's although they second largest biomass on earth. Chitosan is a partially deacetylated chitin and belongs to the class of cationic biopolymers. We investigated the antimicrobial activity of chitosan as natural preservatives in cosmetic products. Antimicrobial activity of chitosan against some microorganisms was investigated. The results indicated that chitosan had an effectiveness against some bacteria. We found that chitosan had minimum inhibitory concentataions as low as 100 ppm to S. aureus ATCC 6538, E. coli ATCC 1634 and P. aeruginosa KCTC 2004. But there was not effects to Asp. Niger ATCC 1374 at 1,000 ppm. Also, formuias preserved with chitosan have been subjected to preservative efficacy tests to some microorganisms. Formla preserved with 0.5% chitosan had an effective antimicrobial activity against the Gram (+) and Gram (-) bacteria but not fungi. It is possible to dertermine the formulas with chitosan, which would be effective to reduce the artificial preservatives.
Study on the safety and Efficacy of Amphiphilic Multi-Emulsion Sipstick
Kim, Tae-Weon ; Lee, Ki-Yong ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 128~133
In manufacturing emulsion lipstick in the past, heat and emulsifyoil phase made with oil, wax and lipophilic emulsifier with water phase together; and then mold above-mentioned materials, so-called lipophilic emulsified lipstick production method has been used. However it is hard to manufacture products using the above said method and furthermore, weak in moisturizing effect, lip care and stability. In this paper, I will discuss about multi-emulsion lipstick complementing already existing emulsion lipstick in terms of stability, giving moisturing effect of lip, and outstanding protection effectiveness of skin by safely gelatinating the state between amphiphilic lipid and water in stable.
Skin safety of the UV Absorbers by Measurement Cytotoxicity High Functional Product with Water-in-Silicone System
In-Young Kim ; Min ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 134~146
Consumers have recently preferred to purchase extensive UV intercepting products, which are waterproof and free from side effects on skin. Testing Cytoroxicity in SR method, cell survivial ratio of UV-B interceptors decreased above 0.08W/V%, and so did that of UV-A interceptors above 0.06W/V%. Also, Patch-test of inorganic UV interceptors resulted in no skin irritation even below 10.0 and 11.25. UV interceptors in the sunlight showed yellowish discoloration in 5 to 14 days. In absorption curves, UV-B was most suitable for Octyl methoxycinnamate and UV-A for Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane. Fro this reason, Nylonpoly UVA/UVB the material of OMC and BMDM coated with Nylon & polyethylene, was used as the organic UV interceptor. And zinc oxide and titanium dioxide was used as inorganic UV ibterceptors. The appropriate mixture ratio of ZnO and TiO2 was 6 to 4.6% of ZnO, 4% of TiO2 and 5% of Nylonpoly UVA/UVB were all combined with our sunscreen cream. The SPF value of in-vivo applied to a guinea pig was 34.9 and that of in-vivo was 38.5. Cyclomerhicone and dimerthicone were used in water-in-Silicone system. Ceryl diverhicone and sorbitan sesquioleate were used as emulsifiers and MgSO4, 7H2O, Mg-stearate/Mg-Al-stearate copolymer as emulsification stabilizers. In practical application, each SPF duration of O/W type and W/S type containing sunscreen cream of the same content showed that W/S type of sunscreen cream was 5 times as durable as the other. This product is fit for using in swimming, climbing or skiing. This research is to minimize skin trouble used by UV interceptors and to make one with proper softness, skin safety and UV intercepting efficiency.
The study of solid-solid sepafation phenomena of chystal wax compoments on the oil,wax and pigment system
Kim, Sung-Nam ; Pae, H.K. ; Kim, Ju-Duck ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 147~151
Application of Perfluoropolymethlisopropyl Ether to Long Wearing Lipstick
Sang-Je Kim ; Don ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 152~160
It has been used that fluorinated compounds could be applied to Make-up products. It is that fluorinated compounds are hydrophobicity, lipophobicity and homophobicity. These fluorinated compounds are reported to form a highly protective and effective film against most aggressive chemical and physical agents. In this study we maed a success to formulate the new type of lipstic using perfluoropolymethylisopropylether with low molecular weight which is long wearing and comfortable to use. This PPIE was adsorbed more than 90% in this experiment and formed the well-balanced gel networks even if the selected PPIE is 100% volatile at room temperature. On the basis of the adsorption of PPIE, we developed the new type lipstick, which was highly-lip feeling and had long wearing and non coloration. And these characteristics were verified by actual consumer test.
Analysis of Cationic Surfactants in Cosmetics By Reverse phase Ion-Pair Chromatigraphy with Suressed Conductivity Detector and UV Detector
Jong-Keun Choi ; Jae ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 23, issue 3, 1997, Pages 161~167
Determination of several cationic surfactants in cosmetics has been investigated. Reverse phase ion pair chromatography was used to identify and quantitate cationic surfactants. Cationic surfactants analyzed in this experiment were cetylpyridium chloride, stearyltrimetylammonium chloride, bezalkonium chloride, benzyldicethylcetylammonium chloride, and bihenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride. The separation was achieved on a reverse phase coumn with 10mM HCl-acetonitrile eluent. In this condition, the most of cationic surfactants with exception of CPC and CTAC respectively with suppressed conductivity detector and UV detector connected in series. The calibration curves obtained by plotting the peak areas of the cationic surfactants were linear at levels ranging from 0.005 to 0.1% correlation coefficient, r=0.9988. The detection limits were 1 to 5ppm in sample solution. The average recoveries of cationic surfactants added to hair treatment cream and hair rinse in three to five experiments were 96.7 105.2% and relative standard deviations were 1.1-3.8%. The case that there were CPC and CTAC in same solution was also tested. CPC and CTAC which couldn't be separated on reverse phase column were quantitated with suppressed conductivity detector and UV detector connected in series. Recovery of CPC and CTAC were 101.6 and 89.2% respectively. The proposed method was applied to the determination of cationic surfactants in commercial hair treatment cream.