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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 27, Issue 2 - Oct 2001
Volume 27, Issue 1 - Sep 2001
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Physico-Chemical Properties of Pseudoceramide in Relation to Bilayer-Forming
Jeong, Min-Woo ; Oh, Seong-Geun ; Kim, Do-Hoon ; Kang, Hak-Hee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 3~15
The bilayer forming ability of pseudo-ceramide PC104 in octanoic acid/water/n-octyl
-D-glucoside mixtures was investigated through the phase diagram. Because of its low solubility in water and of its crystallization, pseudoceramide PC104 was dissolved in octanoic acid, which is nontoxic additive for foods and cosmetics. The mixtures formed four different phases (L1, L2, LC and two phases). Depending on the concentration of PC104 in octanoic acid, the region of each phase was extended or contracted. On the contrary to the region of L2, regions of lamellar phase and L1 phase were expanded. The bilayer-forming ability of PC104 was explained on the basis of concentration of PC104 at interface and interaction between PC104 and octanoic acid. From FT-IR results, it was found that the interactions of PC104’s polar head group with octanoic acid increased as the amount of PC104 in octanoic acid increased. Also emulsion size and size distribution have been studied depending upon the emulsification path. droplets of emulsion prepared from lamellar phase were smaller and more homogeneous compared to those of emulsions formed from L2 phase.
A Cell-Based Assay System for Monitoring NF-
B Activity in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes: A Screening Tool of the Antioxidants and Anti-inflammatories for Dermatological Purpose
Moon, Ki-Young ; Hahn, Bum-Soo ; Lee, Jinseon ; Kim, Yeong-Shik ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 17~27
A cell-based assay system for monitoring NF-
B activity was developed to determine the influence of activated NF-
B in human HaCaT cells. The pNF-
B-SEAP-NPT plasmid that permits expression of the secreted alkaline phosphatase (SEAP) reported gene in response to the NF-
B activity and contains neomycin phosphotransferase (NPT) gene for the geneticin resistance in host cells was constructed and transfected into human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT. Human HaCaT transfectant cells secreted the SEAP enzyme into the culture medium in a time-dependent manner until 72h. NF-
B activities were measured in the SEAP reporter gene assay using a fluorescent detection method. The treatment of HaCaT cell transfectants with known antioxidants [e.g., N-acetyl-L-cysteine and vitamin C] showed inhibition of NF-
B activity in a time-and concentration-dependent manner. The phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) known as a stimulator of NF-
B expression demonstrated that it increased NF-
B activity in a time- and concentration-dependent manner. This assay system could be used to determine the quantitative measurement of NF-
B activity in the human skin and allow the screening of anti-inflammatory agents from various synthetic chemicals and natural products for dermatological purpose. Abbrevitions used: NF-
B, nuclear factor kappa B; I-
B, Inhibitory kappa B; SEAP, secreted alkaline phosphatase; NPT, neomycin phosphotransferease; PCR, polymerase chain reaction: dNTP, deoxynucleoside triphosphates; DMEM, dulbecco’s modified eagle medium; FBS, fetal bovine serum; PBs, phosphate-buffered saline; MUP, 4-methylumbellifery phosphate; NAC, N-acetyl-L-cysteine; DMSO, dimethyl sulfoxide; PMA, phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate.
In Vivo Evaluation of Multi Lamellar Vesicle Liposome’s Percutaneous Absorption and Stability
Joung, Min-Seok ; Park, Jong-Oan ; Seo, Bong-Seok ; Ryu, Chang-Duck ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 29~42
We had prepared MLV liposome with Hibiscus Esculentus Ext.(HEE) which have fluorescent light in order to evaluate its percutaneous absorption about hairless rat skin. Then we investigated particle size of MLV using confocal laser scanning microscope(CLSM) and transmission electron microscope(TEM), respectively. Stability of MLV liposome and penetration of MLV liposome to hairless rat skin was measured by CLSM. As a result of experiments, MLV was globular shape and the rage of particle size was 0.3-0.5
mostly. Cream-type MLV had high stability comparatively. When we treated with MLV to rat skin, skin penetration was enhanced, especially, the optimum concentration of MLV on penetration to rat skin was 10%. Optimum penetration time was 6hr-12hr. And MLV-type HEE was more effective on percutaneous absorption than HEE-cream or liposome-type HEE.
New Antioxidant Sources; Tinged Autumnal Leaves of Maple and Cherry Trees
Lee, Jeong-Jae ; Lee, Chung-Woo ; Cho, Young-Ho ; Park, Sung-Min ; Lee, Bum-Chun ; Pyo, Hyeong-Bae ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 43~52
Living systems constantly suffer from atmospheric reactive oxygen species and also produce inevitably them by the course of metabolism. Therefore, antioxidants play important roles in protecting the systems from various diseased caused by them. In this study, we investigated various tinged autumnal leaves as antioxidant sources. Among the, the red leaf extracts of Acer Palmatum THUNBERG.(Aceraceae: maple tree) and Prunus Donarioum Sieb. Var. spontanea Makino(Rosaceae : cherry trees) showed the highest anti-oxidativities. The major antioxidants in their red leaves were isolated and identified as vitexin from maple leaves and isoscutellarein-4'-O-
-glucopyranoside from cherry leaves. Finally, we evaluated the efficacy of skin care products containing the extracts by human use study. As a result, the tinged leaves of maple and cherry trees were evaluated as good antioxidant sources on the bases of antioxidativities, cytotoxicities, cell proliferation effects and human use study.
Improvement of skin barrier function using lipid mixture
Park, Won-Seok ; Son, Eui-Dong ; Nam, Gae-Won ; Park, Jong-Ho ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 53~72
Dry skin is caused mainly by the perturbation of stratum corneum lipids which affected by ageing, change of season, excess use of surfactant and the effect of disease like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Intercellular lipid structures in stratum corneum are responsible for the barrier function of mammalian skin. The major lipd classes that can be extracted from stratum corneum are ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acid, which make up approximately 50, 25, 10 percent of the stratum corneum lipid mass, respectively. Small amount of cholesterol sulfate, phospholipids, glycosylceramide and cholesterol esters are also present. Recent studies have shown that application of one or two these lipids to the perturbed skin delays barrier recovery; only equimolar mixtures allow normal recovery. We observed that barrier recovery rate was improved in hairless mouse by topical application of single neutral lipids (ceramide, free fatty acid, cholesterol) and lipid mixtures. Whereas the application of single lipid didn’t allows a significant enhancement comparing with normal barrier repair, the equimolar mixtures of 3 components(including synthetic pseudoceramide PC104) improved barrier repair, as assessed by the transepidermal water loss. At clinical study to the volunteers aged over sixty, skin dryness recuperated by the increase of moisture(capacitance) and the reduction of scaling. Utilization of physiologic lipid mixture containing natural ceramides or synthetic pseudoceramide could lead to new forms of topical therapy for the dryness and dermatoses(e.g., psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and irritant dermatitis).
Inhibitory effects of Prunus persica flower extracts on UV-induced skin damage
Lee, Kang-Tae ; Yoo, Young-Kyoung ; Kim, Sung-Woo ; Jeong, Ji-Hean ; Jo, Byoung-Kee ; Kim, Young-Ha ; Yang, Hye-Eum ; Heo, Moon-Young ; Kim, Hyun-Pyo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 73~81
For an attempt to develop safe materials protecting UV-induced skin damage, plant extracts were evaluated for their antioxidative and free radical scavenging activities. From the results of these screening procedures, the ethanol extract of the flowers of Prunus persica was selected for further study. It was found that Prunus persica (50-200
/㎖) inhibited UVB-induced DNA damage measured by tail moment in the Single Cell Gel Electrophoresis(COMET assay) and inhibited UV-induced lipid peroxidation, expecially against UVB-induced peroxidation at higher than 10
/㎖. Also P.persica(100∼1,000
/㎖) inhibited the amount of
14/C-arachidonic acid metabolites release from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and it possessed the protective activity against UV-induced cytotoxicity of keratinocytes. All these results indicate that the flowers of P. persica extract may be beneficial for protection UV-induced skin damage when topically applied.
The Effects of Inositol Extracted from Rice on the Skin
Zhoh, Choon-Koo ; Hwan Song ; Han, Chang-Giu ; Fumi Tsuno ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 83~98
Inositol, is a water-soluble crystalline compound. It helps with people’s metabolism and decreases cholesterol levels. It is also known to have anti-cancer results. In order to find out the affects of Inositol on the skin, Inositol skin lotion was produced with each amount of Inisitol: 0, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 wt% and tested on the faces and the arm areas of women in all ages for 7 weeks. The moisture, sebum, change in elasticity, and improvement of wrinkles were measured. Corneometer, Sebumeter, Cutometer, and an image analyzer were used as measuring equipments. There are subtle differences in the subjects when 1-2% of Inositol is used the moisture of the skin improved 19%, elasticity by 17%, and the amount of sebum for dry and oily skin types adjusted to the amount of sebum of the neutral skin types. This influenced the length, width, the number of peak, and the height of the wrinkles to improve 12.4%. It is thought that Inositol would be an effective new raw material in cosmetics.
Synthesis and de-pigmentation effect of phenolic glucoconjugates
Kim, Ki-Ho ; Kim, Ki-Soo ; Lee, Jae-Soeb ; Ko, Kang-Il ; Lee, Soo-Hee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 99~109
Novel glucoconjugates phenolic moiety, 3-(methoxycarbonyl)-4-(hydroxyphenyl)-
-D-ribofuranoside(11), were synthesized. In order to investigate their depigmentation effect, inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cell were evaluated in vitro. Compound 11 showed 92.0
/㎖ of tyrosinase inhibitory activity whereas compound 4 and 7 showed very low activity not less than 300
/㎖. Inhibitory activities of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cell of compound 4, 7, and 11 were 8.7, 15.1, and 36.0%, respectively, at the concentration of 100
/㎖. Inhibitory activity of compound 11 was much higher than that of arbutin at the same concentration.
Novel Whitening Agent: Phytoclear-EL1
Chang, Yun-Hee ; Lee, Sang-hwa ; Kang, Sang-Jin ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 111~118
A novel melanogenic inhibitory compound, Phytoclear-EL1 (5,10-diacetyl-3-benzoyllathyrol) was isolated from Euphorbiae lathyridis. The effects of EL1 on culture normal human melanocytes (NHM) were assessed. EL1 reduced the melanin synthesis of NHM by 40% at a concentration of 2
g/ml without any apparent cytotoxicity. We also have found that the treatment of the cells with EL1 decreased the tyrosinase activity by 29% in situ. To elucidate the action mechanism of EL1, we investigated the changes in mRNA levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using RT-PCR technique. AS a result, the mRNA levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 were markedly reduced by EL1 treatment. These results suggest that Phytoclear-EL1 is a novel whitening agent that is effective in human melanocytes.
New Whitening agent: Kojyl-APPA
Hwang, Jae-Sung ; Kim, Duck-Hee ; Soomi Anh ; Baek, Heung-Soo ; Park, Hyunjung -Jin ; Lee, Jin-Young ; Lee, Byeong-Gon ; Ihseop Chang ; Kang, Hak-Kee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 119~131
Exposure of the human skin to UV-light can cause sun-tanning, photoaging and even photo-carcinogenesis. Melanin is important in protecting the skin against UV damage, but excessive or uneven melanin production can lead to the formation of freckles and aged spot. Control of hyperpigmentation is becoming even more important as aged population continues to grow. These needs led us to develop effective and safe depigmenting-agent, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate (kojyl-APPA), called Whitegen. The development of whitegen was based on the fact that phosphate group of 3-aminopropyl phosphate can make kojic acid more compatible to the skin membrane and more stable. Instability of kojic acid has been a problem in cosmetic use. The insertion of phosphoester group has been recognized as a powerful tool to improve such physical properties as solubility and stability, because the phosphodiester residue is well characterized as a non-toxic moiety, having a high affinity for cell membranes. Kojyl-APPA showed no tyrosinase inhibition effect compared to kojic acid in vitro, but showed tyrosinase inhibition effect in situ. It means that kojyl-APPA is converted to kojic acid enzymatically in cells. Kojyl-APPA showed the inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis in mouse melanoma and normal humal melnaocytes and also showed long-lasting stability in comparison with its original form (kojic acid). Kojyl-APPA showed depigmenting effects when applied to UVB-induced hyperpigmentated region of guinea pig skin. Based on these results, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate can be used as a safe and effective ingredient for the brightness and cleanness of skin.
Free radical scavenging activity and characterization of the extrcts from Alpinia katsumadai and Areca catechu
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 27, issue 1, 2001, Pages 133~150