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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 30, Issue 4 - Dec 2004
Volume 30, Issue 3 - Nov 2004
Volume 30, Issue 2 - Sep 2004
Volume 30, Issue 1 - May 2004
Selecting the target year
Cosmetic Industry and Its Development Strategy
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 1~6
Although the cosmetic market continuously develops in korea, the foreign product occupies more and more its market3hare in korea. For the future of our industry, institutional support for the ‘functional cosmetics’ (Cosmeceuticals) development should be secured and export infrastructure should be more solid. This paper examines recent trend in cosmetics market (home and foreign) and identifies barriers for the development of cosmetic market. In conclusion, we present several policy strategies for the development of its market.
): a Novel Anti-wrinkle Agent for Cosmeceuticals
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 7~13
As a novel anti-wrinkle agent, 3,9-diferuloyl-6-oxopterocarpen (Tensolin-F
) has been synthesized and its anti-aging effects have been investigated. In the present study, to investigate the relationship between aging and Tensolin-F
, we examined its effect on scavenging activities of radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), in vitro inhibition activity of matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) and expression of UVA-induced MMPs in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Tensolin-F
was found to show activities of scavenging radicals and ROS with the
/ values of 0.2 mM and 0.95 mM against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and superoxide radicals, respectively, in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. Fluorometric assays for the proteolytic activities of MMP-l (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. Tensolin-F
inhibited the activities of MMP-l in a dose-dependent manner and the
/ values calculated from semi-log plots were 0.025 mM. Also, UVA induced MMP-1 expression was reduced 85％ by treatment with Tensolin-F
at 0.8 uM, which was reduced dose-dependent manner. The results of clinical study showed that 4.8 mM Tensolin-F
treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P 〈 0.05). Taken together, these result suggest that Tensolin-F
act as an anti-wrinkle agent by taking effects to antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-l production.-l production.
Anti-wrinkle Effect of Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) Seed Extract (I)
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 15~22
Anti-wrinkle Effect of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) seed extract (CTSE) was evaluated by determination of the anti-oxidation, collagen synthesis and elastase inhibition in normal human fibroblast. CTSE showed anti-oxidation and collagen synthesis ability as much as or greater than other phytoestrogenic compounds such as genistein or resveratrol. Consistent with collagen synthesis promotion, CTSE also showed inhibitory effect on elastase activity. In the human skin irritation test, 0.2％ CTSE did not show any adverse effect. These results demonstrate that CTSE can be useful as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.
Clinical Studies on the Anti-Irritation Effects of Mung Bean (Phaseolus aureus) Extract in Cosmetics
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 23~28
The aim of this study is to assess the anti-irritation activities of mung bean (Phaseolus aureus) extract against various irritants used in cosmetics. For its antidotal activity, mung bean has been used as a medicinal or cosmetic material since ancient times. However, there have been few reports describing the biological activities of these beans and no comprehensive surveys of the constituents. We obtained an ethanolic extract of mung bean and isolated the major constituents, such as vitexin and isovitexin. And we previously reported that the mung bean extract containing vitexin and isovitexin had excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. To investigate the mechanisms of anti-inflammatory activity of mung bean extract, we examined the inhibitory effects on histamine release from rat peritoneal mast cells and lipoxygenase activity. Mung bean extract inhibited histamine release in a concentration dependent manner but showed no inhibitory activity in the 5-lipoxygenase assay. And, clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the anti-irritation effects of mung bean extract against various irritants used in cosmetics such as lactic acid, retinol, and preservatives. When 2.0％ of mung bean extract was applied to cosmetic formulae containing each of irritants, it revealed considerable anti-irritation efficacy. Our results of the human patch test with 20 volunteers showed that this extract reduced skin irritations caused by 5.0％ lactic acid, 4000 IU retinol, and 1.0％ preservative mixture by about 60％, 30％, and 50％ respectively. The stinging potential test for assessing subjective irritation also showed that the extract reduced the unpleasant sensations by about 50∼30％. Finally, we performed a double-blind usage test with 30 subjects to compare formulae containing mung bean extract with placebo. From the results of questionnaires for 4 weeks of use, we confirmed the excellent anti-irritation effect of mung bean extract. Conclusively, we could discover new material that had anti-irritation effects and apply this mung bean extract to the final cosmetic products successfully.
Inhibition of Melanin Synthesis by Enhanced Cytosolic Delivery of N-glycosylation Inhibitors Using pH-Sensitive Nano-carrier
Park, Ju-Young ; Park, Hyun-Jung ; Shim, Jong-Won ; Ahn, Soo-Mi ; Kim, Junoh ; Chang, Ih-Seop ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 29~32
Inhibition of the early N-glycosylation process in the endoplasmic reticulum prevents the activation of tyrosinase, a key enzyme for melanin biosynthesis. This work aims at evaluating the increased activity of N-glycosylation inhibitors in vitro b, employing a nano-sized pH-sensitive liposome as a delivery carrier. Melexsome, a pH-sensitive nano carrier loaded with glycosylation inhibitos, was prepared by the hydration method with phospholipids and cholresterol-based amphiphiles. Inhibitory effects of Melexsome on the N-glycosylation process were evaluated by EndoH ＆ PNGaseF digestion and the western blotting. Melanin synthesis was also monitored after treatment with Melexsome Interestingly, Melexsome effectively increased the efficacy of N-glycosylation inhibitors. Melexsome was also much more efficiently translocated into the cytoplasm as observed in CLSM. These results demonstrated that the amphiphilic lipid-based pH-sensitive nano-carriers could be, used as an efficient delivery system for N-glycosylation inhibitor to enhance the effects of skin whitening cosmetics.
Anti-melanogenesis Effect of Phenolic Compounds Isolated from Gastrodia elata
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 33~38
Melanin pigmentation in human skin is a major defense mechanism against ultraviolet light of the sun, but abnormal pigmentation such as freckles, liver spot could be a serious aesthetic problem. Nearly all studies are mainly concentrated on searching for the materials that have inhibitory activities on tyrosinase. In this work, to isolate phenolic compounds from Gastrodia elata, we purified the extract through solvent fractionation, column chromatography, and recrystallization. They were identified as 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol 1, bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)methane 2, gastrodin (4-
-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl alcohol) 3 on the base of spectroscopic evidences. In order to investigate their depigmentation effect, inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells were evaluated in vitro. We have found that 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol 1 and gastrodin (4-
-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl alcohol) 3 have no tyrosinase inhibitory activity, but inhibit the melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. Tyrosinase inhibitory activities of bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)methane 2 (IC
50/ = 400
/mL) and butanol fraction (IC
50/ = 46
/mL) were lower/higher than that of arbutin (IC
50/ = 114
/mL), but inhibitory activities of melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells were much higher than that of arbutin. Especially, tyrosinase inhibitory activities of isolated phenolic fraction (IC
50/ = 2.37
/mL) from butanol fraction was very higher than that of arbutin (IC
50/ = 114
/mL). Therefore, these results suggest that isolated phenolic compounds from Gastrodia elata have inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and inhibitory activity of melanin synthesis in 816 melanoma cells in vitro.
Identification of Ozone-induced Skin Damage and Screening of Antioxidant for Ozone
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 39~51
), one of best-known toxic air pollutant, act as a strong oxidant. It is possible that skins exposed to the air can be easily damaged by such oxidative air pollutants. Therefore, in the present study, anti-oxidative effects of natural product. on
ㆍ and ㆍOH were investigated by EPR. Ozone caused protein damage and lipid oxidation, in HaCaT and B16F10 leading ultimately to programmed cell death. It also reduced the level of antioxidant molecules including ascorbic acid and tocopherol in stratum comeum. However, antioxidants originated from natural products could protect skin from these products could protect skin from these oxidative damages. We concluded that eight natural extracts including Rosa davurica, Ligularia sibrica, Green tea acted as strong antioxidants against ozone.
Cryo-Electron Microscopy of Microstructures of Emulsions
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 53~58
In this study, we describe the application of electron microscopes that incorporate freeze treatments or cryo systems to achieve the characterization of the microstuctures of emulsions. We confirmed that the preparations of freezing replica method and with cryo systems were useful to clarify the microstuctures of the emulsions. This methodology will be able to contribute to understanding the relation between microstuctures and rheology of emulsions.
Development of Real-time Monitoring Device (
chip) for Phase Inversion of Emulsions Under Shear Flow
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 59~62
To know what happens to the internal structure of emulsions under high shear flow is very important for cosmetic product development because it is highly relevant to the physical degradation of emulsions during the application upon the skin. Here, in order to investigate the response of emulsions against the external shear forces, we designed a new device, .JELLI
(Joint Electro-rheometer for Liquid-Liquid Inversion) chip, for the measurement of electrical and rheological properties of emulsions under shear flow. By using this device, we examined the real-time changes in conductivities of oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions on the artificial skin during large deformation under shear flow. In this study, O/W and W/O emulsions having various volumes were prepared. After emulsions were homogeneously applied on the artificial skin, the electrical resistance and viscosity changes were monitored under steady shear flow. In case of O/W emulsions, the resistance increased as a function of time. The resistance showed more dramatic increase as the increase of the internal oil phase. It was also found that the viscosity change was proportional to the resistance variation. This phenomenon might be caused by decreased resisting forces against the shear flow because of the breakdown of the internal phase.the internal phase.
Protection of UV-derived Skin Cell Damage and Anti-irritation Effect of Juniperus chinensis Xylem Extract
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 63~71
The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100
/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100
/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25
/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E
) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE
monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50
/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE
by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/
UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/
of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.
Production and Characterization of Selenium Peptide from Saccharomyces Cerevisiae
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 73~77
Selenium containing peptide was produced by culturing yeast with selenium, Selenium was broadly incorporated in the various size of proteins based on the GPC analysis of the total yeast protein. The ratio of selenium to protein increased with the concentration of added selenium in the culture medium. Antioxidant activity (glutathione peroxidase-like activity) was proportional to the concentration of selenium concentration in the peptide. Different size of proteins were obtained by hydrolyzing the total yeast protein by protease XIV. Average molecular weight of selenium peptide was analyzed by GPC. Glutathione peroxidase (GPx) activity of the selenium peptide increased as the size of peptide decreased. Sodium selenite had strong inhibition on the yeast growth than sodium selenate. The ratio of selenium to protein was higher with sodium selenate than with sodium selenite. These results showed the potentials of selenium peptide production by yeast cultivation.
Effects of Parsley Extract on Skin Anti-aging and Anti-irritation
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 79~83
In order to investigate the beneficial effects of parsely (Petroselinurn sativum) extract on skin, we measured the synthesis of total collagen and type I procollagen in cultured normal human fibroblast (NHF), the synthesis of prostaglandin E
), interleukin 1
) and tumor necrosis factor
) in HaCaT cell and we also measured dermal thickness and density in hairless mouse (Female albino hairless mice, Skh:hr-1). As the results, the synthesis of total collagen and type I procollagen were increased 23％ and 18％ respectively, after 1
/mL parsley extract treatment. The producions of PGE
induced by UVB irradiation were decreased 60％ after 1
/mL parsley extract treatment. The treatment with 1
/mL parsley extract also decreased the synthesis of IL -1
induced by 10 uM RA, 100
/mL SLS and 30 mJ/
UVB irradiation, After 4 days treatment with 1％ parsley extract, the dermal thickness of hairless mouse was increased 1.5 times and the density of dermis was tighter than control. These results indicate that parsley extract have anti-aging and anti-irritation effects on skin.
Evaluation of Age-dependent Crow′s Feet in Korean Women
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 85~91
In this study, we evaluated the crow's feet of 152 Korean women by using visual assessment established by our research group and mechanical assessment, Skin Visiometer SV 600. The volunteers were divided into 3 groups according to age; the group I of 30's was 43, the group II of 40's was 75, the group III of 50's was 34. The wrinkle score by visual assessment showed tendency to increase according to age and was statistically significant different among those three age groups (P 〈 0.05). But there was no significant difference between the left and the right of crow's feet. The 5 wrinkle parameters (RI, R2, R3, R4, R5) of mechanical assessment varied as age and the Rl, R4, and R5 showed statistically significant difference among three age groups (P 〈 0.05). However there was no significant difference between the left and the right of crow's feet. The volunteers were divided into 3 groups according to wrinkle score; (0-3 grade for group A, 4-6 grade for group B, 7-9 grade for group C). Only R4 and R5 showed significant difference between group A and group C (P 〈 0.05). It was suggested that visual scoring criteria applied in this study was related to R4 and R5 and was useful in investigating in fine wrinkles.
An Empirical Study on the Oriental Herbal Cosmetics Purchase Behaviors in Women in the Metropolitan Area
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 93~102
Recently, the golden age of herbal cosmetics has come. Along with active introduction of oriental herbal lines, diversification of distribution channels is designated as a major feature. In this background, the present study attempts to consider the domestic market for oriental herbal cosmetics, which is growing rapidly with the introduction of various new brands, and examine the perceptions of this new type of cosmetics by women consumers based on their purchase behaviors, and search for the ways for its promotion and development. A survey was conducted to adult women consumers aged 19∼60 residing in Seoul or Gyeonggi-do. Out of a total of 430 surveys distributed, 350 answer sheets were used for the analysis Among the results, the first-hand information on the herbal cosmetics market, their usage, and the consumer needs obtained in the present study will serve as a fundamental data for planning the marketing strategies for the oriental herbal cosmetics.
An Investigation on the Cosmetic Haircare Behavior of Women College Students
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 103~116
The goal of this study was to get the basic data for the domestic cosmetic industry, through analyzing female college ,students’ responses to cosmetic care of hair and their behavior, and their preference for hair cosmetics and brands. In their level of understanding and concern of hair cosmetic care, as well as their general knowledge, ‘dyed or decolorized hair’ types had the highest response rate at 49％, followed by ‘permanent wave’ type at 39％. Thus they were very interested in hairdressing-related operations, and even they made an attempt to do it directly. In the ways and management for dealing with harmful side effects caused by dyeing, decolorizing, or permanent, 74.7％ of the respondents experienced adverse effects, as well as having complaints, after permanent wave. Of the complaints 245 students experienced, ‘hair damage’ was the highest rate of 42.4％, followed by ‘unsatisfied with hair style’ at 19.8％. From the above results, female college students showed a various interest in hair cosmetic care; however, they had little knowledge in this regard. Accordingly, it is necessary to educate them for the segmentation of hair cosmetics and the appropriate hair care, to meet their diversified cosmetic needs which becomes diversified, and to offer them the correct information of hair beauty.
Research and Application for Natural Extract That Contain Ultraviolet Rays Absorbent Ingredient
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 117~122
Exessive UV radiation causes a lot of problems in our skin. In order to find out the alternative UV absorber that can safely be used in cosmetics, we have screened various natural extracts in terms of their UV absorbing effect. Some natural extracts, which possess antioxidative activities, have also been found to retard the oxidation process in our experiment. Natural compound such as 7-hydroxycymopol, baicalein, etc. could be transformed into adjuvant UV absorber by chemical modification. In cosmetics, its chemical stability against UV radiation, exposure to oxygen and other factors could be improved by using the silicone or W/S type emulsion. The values of MED (minimal erythema dose) were improved to 0.10
0.02 by adding this natural extract into the cosmetic formulations. In conclusion, the results of the present study show that natural extracts could be used as an adjuvant UV absorber, if they are stabilized.
The Study for Efficacy, Effect and Stabilization of Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root, Prunella Vulgaris Leaf and Clematis Chinensis Root as a New Whitening Ingredients
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 123~128
Numerous novel ingredients have been introduced for the higher functionality of whitening cosmetics. Through the preliminary research, we have found Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root have high whitening efficacy. But they are insoluble. Moreover the discoloration of and decrease in content take place when they are exposed to light, heat or oxygen. From Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root, efficacious ingredients were ethanol-extracted by heating to 75∼85
for 6∼8 h. These extracts have the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and B16 melanin formation, thus enhancing whitening effect. We made liposomes using propylene glycol (PG)/hydrogenated lecithin/middle chain triglycerides (MCT)/glycerin/water and microfuidizer to stabilize extracts. The stability against heat and light was enhanced by 3∼5 times compared with untreated extracts. Particle size analyzer, freeze fracture transmission electron microscopy (FF-TEM), chromameter and HPLC are used for the analysis.
Improvement of in vitro Sun Protection Factor Measurement
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 129~133
The major advantage of the in vitro test is that it is a rapid, objective and cost-effective screening methodology. In vitro tests can provide a formulation tool to identify new fillers that are optimized by combinations of old ones and they can be used to pre-screen protective formulas prior to in vivo testing in humans. Therefore, the accuracy of in vitro SPF measurement is very important. In this study, improvement of application method of samples was tried to improve the accuracy of in vitro SPF measurement. The outer part of Transpore
(R)/ tape was used to apply samples as the substrates and the standard drying time was set at 15 min. The new method, topical applications at light scan areas, results in more accurate and reliable results. This result suggests that more accurate prediction system can be established for in vivo SPF with in vivo SPF measurement.
Quantitative Changes of Collagen and Malonedialdehyde as the Parameters of Skin Alteration
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 1, 2004, Pages 135~140
Anti-skin aging agent could be have an inhibition effect of ROS production as well as fragmentation and change of collagen cross linkage in collagen molecule. For the monitoring of lipid peroxidation and collagen degradation, the skin of young and old rats were incised and observed 7 days. In the result, the wound closure was observed in the skin from 10 of 11 young rats and in 8 of 11 old rats. And the longer wound length but shorter wound closure, weaker collagen density and thicker epidermis were observed in old rats than in young rats. The level of hydroxyproline as a parameter of collagen synthesis and MDA as a parameter of lipid peroxidation was lower in old group than in young group. The cyst and lacuna between collagen bundle and fibroblast were observed in old rats in contrast to young rats. So that we propose that MDA and hydroxyproline could be used for monitoring of anti-skin aging agent.