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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 30, Issue 4 - Dec 2004
Volume 30, Issue 3 - Nov 2004
Volume 30, Issue 2 - Sep 2004
Volume 30, Issue 1 - May 2004
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Correlation of the Skin Feeling with Rheological Parameters and Other Physical Properties
Lee, Young-Jin ; Baik, Seung-Jae ; Lee, Hye-Won ; Nam, Yoon-Sung ; Kim, Su-Jung ; Han, Sang-Hoon ; Kang, Hak-Hee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 141~145
This study was pursued to measure skin feeling of cosmetics by mechanical methods. For this attempt, skin feeling of cosmetics such as spreading properties, tackiness, and residual greasy feeling after skin application was explored with the amount and kinds of cosmetic compositions-emulsifiers, waxes, thickeners, polyols, and oils. Furthermore, the relationship between these cosmetic compositions and viscometry of cosmetic products was studied. In case of emulsifiers, waxes, and thickeners, they showed strong correlation with both skin feeling and the value of phase angle, the property of viscometry, respectively, while polyols and oils were observed a special tendency neither skin feeling nor the property of viscometry. It leads to the conclusion that skin feeling may be corresponded to not values of a mechanical measure completely but a function of several properties. We expect that a better correlation can be discovered with additionally measured properties such as friction, volatility, etc.
Electro-rheological Measurements of Phase Inversion of Emulsions under Shear Flow
Seung Jae, Baik ; Young-Jin, Lee ; Yoon Sung, Nam ; Chin Han, Kim ; Han Kon, Kim ; Hak Hee, Kang ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 147~151
This study aims at measuring electrical and rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions on the skin under shear flow. The effects of volume ratio and surfactants on structural changes of emulsions were examined by determining the changes of electrical resistance, viscosity, and morphology. As the ratio of the internal phase increased, the phase inversion occurred more quickly. The viscosity change was found to increase with increasing of the variation of electrical resistance of the emulsions. This phenomenon may be caused by decreased resistant force against the shear flow because of the breakdown of the internal phase. Surfactants a]so played a key ro]e on phase transition of emulsions. It is likely that polymeric surfactants anchoring on the emulsion surface reinforced the interfacial mechanical strength. As the concentration of surfactants increased, the phase transition occurred more slowly. It has been demonstrated that the phase changes of emulsions under shear flow can be monitored on the real-time basis by using a JELLI
TM/ chip system, a combination of conductiometry and rheometry. Our approach is expected to a useful experimental tool for predicting the phase transition of the cosmetic products during skin application.
Development of Nano-liposome with Unsaturated Lecithin
Ki-Choon, Kang ; Chung-Hee, Lee ; Jeong-Min, Seo ; Su-Hwan, Wang ; Chun-Il, Lee ; Hyeong-Bae, Pyo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 153~158
In cosmetics, the saturated lecithin, one of the main surfactants to prepare liposome has been used for its stability but it has been substituting with unsaturated lecithin which has excellent skin affinity and penetration property. So we studied to prepare nano-liposome that size of particles were below than 50nm by unsaturated lecithin. It was important that many factors including solvent such as propylene glycol, pH balance, homogenizing pressure, various cosurfactants and stabilizers to make stable nano-liposome. In our experimental conditions, cosurfactants with stearate class as lipophilic part were more suitable than others for our purpose. But in liposome by saturated lecithin, cosurfactants had negative effect and appropriate amount of oil should be used to be stable. These results indicated that unsaturated lecithin were more suitable than saturated lecithin to prepare nano-liposome.
Formation of Liquid Crystalline with Hydrogenated Lecithin and Its Effectiveness
Kim, In-Young ; Lee, Joo-Dong ; Ryoo, Hee-Chang ; Zhoh, Choon-Koo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 159~165
This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0
1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/
. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20
range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6
range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.
Preparation and Properties of Phytosphingosine Ascorbate with Retaining Skin Development Effects
Min, Seok-Kee ; Jin, Yong-Hoon ; Park, Woo-Jung ; Eom, Sang-Yong ; Kim, Jong-Heon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 167~172
In the human skin, vitamin C (L -ascorbic acid) that is well known as the activated materials has effects that is skin anti-aging and wrinkle repair by giving impetus to collagen biosynthesis and anti-oxidation, and that is the sun screen, a wound recovering, inhibition melanogenesis and so on. In spite of its effects, vitamin C has the defects of the skin stimulation and easily oxidized instability by water, air, heat and light. For solving their matters, many investigation is advanced and its results are synthesized the various vitamin C derivatives. And yet they have not solved the unstable property of vitamin C and were still insufficient for the comparing with the effect of the pure vitamin C itself. In this study, in order to prepare vitamin C derivative of being improved the stability and to apply vitamin C effect in the skin, we prepared new vitamin C derivative, phytosphingosine ascorbate, by using phytosphingosine, one of sphingolipids, which have a distinguished skin affinity. Phytosphingosine ascorbate can be prepared as the ionic bond between amine group (-NH
) of phytosphingosine and hydroxy group (-OH) of vitamin C by way of the relatively simple reaction. So the structure and properties of the synthesized phytosphingosine ascorbate was confirmed the use of elemental analysis (C 58.3 : H 9.3 : N 2.8 : O 29.5), MALDI TOF-MS (Mw=492.58), Ultraviolet spectra (268.5nm), lH NMR, FT-IR spectra, thermal analysis (m.p=l54
), HPLC and so on. And we could confirm the anti-bacterial and anti-oxidation effects. Based on these results, we could confirm to prepare a new material that was expected of both effects of vitamin C and phytosphingosine and that is improved properties of vitamin C.
The Study of Plate Powder Coated Nano Sized ZnO Synthesis and Effect of Sensory Texture Improvement
Jin-Hwa , Lee ; Ju-Yeol, Han ; Sang-Gil, Lee ; Hyeong-Bae, Pyo ; Dong-Kyu, Lee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 173~180
Nano sized ZnO particle as 20-30nm applies for material, pigments, rubber additives, gas sensors, varistors, fluorescent substance as well as new material such as photo-catalyst, sensitizer, fluorescent material. ZnO with a particle size in the range 20-30nm has provided to be an excellent UV blocking material in the cosmetics industry, which can be used in sunscreen product to enhance the sun protection factor and natural makeup effect. But pure ZnO particles application limits for getting worse wearing feeling. We make high-functional inorganic-composite that coated with nano-ZnO on the plate-type particle such as sericite, boron nitride and bismuthoxychloride. In this experiment, we synthesized composite powder using hydrothermal precipitation method. The starting material was ZnCl
Precipitation materials were used hexamethylenetetramine(HMT) and urea. We make an experiment with changing as synthesis factors that are concentrations of starting material, precipitation materials, nuclear formation material, reaction time, and reaction temperature. We analyzed composite powder's shape, crystallization and UV-blocking ability with FE-SEM, XRD, FT-IR, TGA-DTA, In vitro SPF test. The user test was conducted by product's formulator. In the results of this study, nanometer sized ZnD was coated regardless of the type of plate-powder at fixed condition range. When the coated plate-powders were applied in pressed powder product, the glaze of powder itself decreased, but natural make-up effect, spreadability, and adhesionability were increased.
Inorganic-organic nano-hybrid; Preparation of Nano-sized TiO
Paste Trapped OMC Nano-emulsion and it's Application for Cosmetics
Byung Gyu, Park ; Jong Heon, Kim ; Jin Hee, Im ; Kyoung Chul, Lee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 181~187
Preparations of mesoporous materials using various templates and their applicability have been intensively investigated for many years. We studied on synthesizing mesoporous Ti02 with pores in which sensitive compounds having weak physico-chemical properties such as thermal or UV irradiation and low solubility in solvent are trapped. Prior to trapping OMC in the pores of mesoporous titania, OMC was nano-emulsified in O/W system using Lecithin. Thereafter the OMC was trapped in the pores of mesoporous titania using sol-gel method. Main focus of this work is to prepare OMC-trapped mesoporous titania and to trace the stability and solubility of nano-emulsified OMC in the pores of mesoporous titania, and compared with that of mesoporous silica. OMC-trapped mesoporous Inorganic-Organic hybrid titania showed higher factors in sun protecting and a skin penetration phenomenon was reduced.
Synthesis of New Black Pigment; Carbon Black Pigment Capsulated into the Meso-pore of Silica as Black Pigment in Cosmetic
Hye-in, Jang ; Kyung-chul, Lee ; Hee-chang , Ryoo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 189~195
Carbon black have not been used as pigment material in cosmetic because of very low density and dispersity, but carbon black have applicable character as black pigment because of non-toxic, stable physico-chemical property, and black colority. In this study, mesoporous silica samples were synthesized by sol-gel reaction using surfactants-template method; TEOS (tetraethoxysilane) - a) PEO/lecithin, b) PEO/polyethylene glycol, c) lecithin/polyethylene glycol in ethanol/water solution. Synthesized organic-inorganic hybrid - silica were heat-treated in N2 condition at 500
. Mesoporous silica with black carbon in pore have the effective density and show the good dispersity in both hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvent. Properties of the samples were measured; specific surface area (750㎡/g) and pore size (4-6nm) using BET, pore structure (cylindrical type) using XRD, morphology (spherical powder with 0.1-0.5
partical size) of the samples using SEM. Carbon-silica black color applied to mascara, it shows a dark black colority and good dispersity as compared with the general black color titania pigment. Moreover, it is possible to control the density of black color pigment because it is possible to control pore volume and particle size of mesoporous silica properly. It show the good volume effects in mascara. That is why possible to apply all kinds of cosmetic products.
A Study on the Surface-Modification of Barium Sulfate/TiO
/Dimethicone Composite Powder and its Application in Color Cosmetics
Kyung-Ho, Choi ; Seung-Yong, Ko ; Hak-Hee, Kang ; Ok-Sub, Lee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 197~200
Sensor and optical properties have become critical features in powder foundation. The flaky barium sulfate powder shows good smooth texture, adhesion and natural looking characteristics. However, it has limitations abilities in UV shielding, hiding and blooming effect. Thus we adopt TiO
that has excellent hiding power and blooming effect as well as UV shielding ability, but TiO
has still intrinsic problems in dispersion and texture. To overcome this disadvantages, the barium sulfate/TiO
/dimethicone composite powder was prepared. The flaky barium sulfate powder was coated with TiO
in nanoscale and followed by coated with dimethicone. When this surface-modified powder was applied for make-up cosmetics, especially in powder foundation, the powder gave powder foundation more good characteristics than the original flaky barium sulfate, Ti02 powder, dimethicone in abovementioned optical and sensory properties. To characterize the distinctive features of this surface-modified powder, we measured its characteristics with UV in vitro tester, hiding powder test method, goniophotometer, consumer panel test and so on.
Lamellar-bio nano-hybrid; The Study for Stability of Catechin (Green Tea: EGCG) Using 3-Dimensional Liposome
Hong Geun, Ji ; Jung Sik, Choi ; Hee Suk, Kwon ; Sung Rack, Cho ; Byoung Kee, Jo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 201~205
In these several years, as many people have been attracted by the functional cosmetics, there are a lot of study to enhance the stability of active ingredients for light, heat, oxygen, etc. in the academic and industrial field. Especially, catechin is well known as strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and reducing agent for oxidative stress but it is very unstable for light, heat, oxygen. etc. In this study, the stability and skin penetration of catechin are improved by 3-dimensional method. As I-dimension, porous silica is prepared using sol-gel method, and then catechin is adsorbed in pores of silica. As 2-dimension, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are obtained using non-phospholipid vesicles. Finally 3-dimension is completion through lamellar phase self-organization that combines SLN catechin with skin lipid matrix. We used laser light scattering system, cyro-SEM, chromameter, HPLC and image analyzer to analyze our 3-dimentional systems. According to chromameter date, the color stability of 3-dimensional catechin is enhanced by 5-10 times compared with general liposome systems. We also confirmed through HPLC analysis that 3-dimensional catechin is more long lasting. The effect of skin penetration and wrinkle reduction are improved, too.
The Study for Stability of Useful Glycyrrhiza uralensis (Licorice Root) Using Nanosolve and PMMA
Ji, Hong-Geun ; Kim, Ju-Duck ; Kim, Jeong-Dong ; Choi, Jung-Sik ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 207~210
Glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice root) is very useful medicinal herb because of strong anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, it is widely used in functional cosmetics. However, it is insoluble and easily decomposed by light, heat, oxygen, etc. In this study, we first prepared NanoSolve-Licorice (30-50nm) using Glycyrrhiza uralensis and propylene glycol! hydrogenated lecithin/caprylic/capric triglyceride/glycerin/water system with microfluidizer. And then, NanoSolve-Licorice and porous PMMA are dispersed in ethanol. Finally, we could get a stabilized system with high-pressure homogenizer (1,000 Bar, 3 passes). According to HPLC measurement for glabridin content, our system is more stable compared with general liposome ones. Capsulated licorice has an enhanced anti-inflammatory effect on account of excellent skin penetration. We also evaluated our final product through image analyzer, particle size analyzer, FF-TEM and chromameter.
Anti-aging Effects of the Extracts from Leaf. Stem, Fruit and Seed of Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb) by Solvent Extraction Method
Kim, In-Young ; Jung, Sung-Won ; Ryoo, Hee-Chang ; Zhoh, Choon-Koo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 211~219
Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb.) chose that grow as medicine, food, decorative plant in Korea's Kyong-Gi province surroundings. Extracts of yew extracted leaf of 250g and stems of 300g with 1,3-butylene glycol (l,3-BG), propylene glycol (PG) and water. As results, external appearance of leaf extract of yew was slightly brown clear extract. The pH was 5.3
0.5, and specific gravity was 1.012
0.05, and refractive index was l.375
0.05. Also, appearance of stem's extract was slightly brown clear extract, and the pH was 5.4
0.5, and specific gravity was 1.016
0.05, and refractive index was 1.358
0.05. Oil of yew separated from seeds, and extracted polysaccharide high purity from fruits. As a result, specific gravity of oil was 0.987, and obtained 40.0% of yield. Total polyphenols amount of yew extract is detected 0.563% in leaves, 0.325% in stems, whereas total tannins amount contained 0.054% and 0.037% each in leaves and stems. As effect in cosmetics, the anti-oxidative effect by DPPH method is 75.0% in leaves, and stems was 64.0%. Collagen synthesis rate was shown high activity by 54.16% in stem's extract, 33.18% in leaves' extract. Also, PPE-inhibitory activities were 13.7% and 23.5% each in leaves and stems. Anti-inflammatory effect of yew seed oil displayed superior effect of 41% than control. Polysaccharide's molecular weight that is gotten from fruits was 5
5/ dalton, and got 20.0
5% of yield.
Anti-wrinkle Effect by Ginsenoside Rg3 Derived from Ginseng
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 221~225
The root of Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer has been used as a traditional anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent in the Orient. However, it is still unknown which component of ginseng is effective at suppressing wrinkle formation. Recently at least twenty ginsenosides regarded as the main active ingredients of ginseng have been isolated. Among them, we examined the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 on dermal ECM metabolism to elucidate the mechanism of anti-wrinkle by ginseng. In our study, to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of the ginsenoside Rg3, ECM component and growth factor in dennis were evaluated by ELISA assay. Ginsenoside Rg3 was found to stimulate type I procollagen and fibronectin (FN) biosynthesis in a dose-dependent manner in normal human fibroblast culture (p < 0.05, n =3), and dose-dependently enhance TGF-
1 level (p < 0.05, n =3). In RT-PCR analysis mRNA level of c-Jun, a member of AP-1 transcription factor, was reduced by ginsenoside Rg3 in normal human fibroblast culture. These results indicate that ginsenoside Rg3 stimulates type I collagen and FN synthesis through the changes of TGF -
1 and AP-1 expression in fibroblasts.
Photoprotection and Anti-inflammatory Effects of Chinese Medical Plants
Jin-Hwa, Kim ; Sung-Min, Park ; Gwan-Sub, Sim ; Bum-Chun , Lee ; Hyeong-Bae, Pyo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 227~233
Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E
) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using PGE
monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100
/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100
/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25
/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE
by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/
of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2-25
/mL of this extract, the production of PGE
by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/
UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.
New Cosmetic Agents for Anti-aging from Zostera marina L.
Jin-Hui, Kim ; Kyung-Eun, Lee ; Jin-Hwa, Kim ; Young-Ho, Cho ; Sung-Min, Park ; Jeong-Jae, Lee ; Bum-Chun, Lee ; Hyeong-Bae, Pyo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 235~240
In order to develop new anti-photoaging agents from marine natural products, Zostera marina L. was selected for its antioxidative activity and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression. Three compounds (compounds 1, 2, and 3) were isolated from the extract, and they were identified as apigenin-7-O-
-D-glucoside (1), chrysoeriol (2), and luteolin (3). These compounds have SC
50/ values of 0.18 mM, 0.68 mM, and 0.01 mM against l,l-dipheny1-2-picrylhydrazyl radical and 0.04mM, 0.03mM, and 0.01mM against the superoxide radical in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Compound 3 suppressed the expression of MMP-1 by up to 44% at 35.0
M and inhibited the production of interleukin 6, which is known as a cytokine that induces MMP-1 expression. In addition, the wrinkle improvement effect of the formulation with Z. marina extract was measured. As a result, remarkable reduction was found in the fine wrinkle and skin roughness after application of the cream with 3.0% this extract for 8 weeks. In conclusion, the isolated compounds from Z. marina extract were good antioxidant and suppressor of MMP-1 expression and the formulation with the extract diminished the skin wrinkle. Therefore, the extract can be used as a new anti-aging agent for application in cosmetic.
Development of Peptides from the Germinated Black Rice and Applications as Cosmetics Ingredients
Dong-hwan, Lee ; Jin-hwa , Kim ; Jun-tae, Bae ; Sung-min, Park ; Hyeong-bae, Pyo ; Tae-boo, Choe ; Bum-chun, Lee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 241~246
To develop novel anti-aging peptides from the germinated black rice, we treated with bromelain, papain and Pronase E. And we investigated the effects of the germinated black rice peptide (GBRP) as anti-aging cosmetic ingredients, and compared with the non-germinated black rice protein (NBRP). We investigated the effects on in vitro inhibition of matrix-metalloprotease (MMP), proliferation of human skin fibroblasts, stimulation of collagen synthesis and expression of UVA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts, UVA induced MMP-1 expression and collagen contents in human skin fibroblasts were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). As a result, the molecular weight distributions of GBRP and NBRP were determined by gel permeation chromatography to be approximately 900 and 10,000 daltons. GBRP increased skin cell proliferation about 40% and reduced UVA-induced MMP-1 expression about 50%. Also the collagen protein level of cells, which were cultured with GBRP, was increased about 25%. These results suggest that the geminated plant seed peptides can be novel anti-aging ingredients for cosmetics.
Fructose 1.6-diphosphate Prevents Cyclooxygenase-2 and Matrix Metalloproteinases Expression by Inhibition of UVB-induced Signaling Cascades in HaCaT Keratinocytes
Soo Mi, Ahn ; Ji Hyun, Kim ; Byeong Gon, Lee ; Soo Hwan, Lee ; Ih Seoup, Chang ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 247~251
UV radiation exerts various influences in the skin, including photoaging and inflammation (1). The MMPs (Matrix metalloproteinases), which are induced by UV irradiation, can degrade matrix proteins, and these results in a collagen deficiency in photodamaged skin that leads to skin wrinkling. It has been known that the production of PGE
stimulates MMPs expression, and inhibits procollagen (2). Thus, it is possible that the induction of MMPs and the inhibition of matrix protein synthesis by UV -induced PGE
may play some role in UV-induced collagen deficiency in photoaged skin. Fructose-1,6-diphosphate (FDP), a glycolytic metabolite, is reported to have cytoprotective effects against ischemia and postischemic reperfusion injury of brain and heart, presumably by augmenting anaerobic carbohydrate metabolism (3). And also, FDP significantly prevent skin aging by decreasing facial winkle compared with vehicle alone after 6 months of use. We studied the mechanism of anti-aging effect of FDP on UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocyte model. FDP has protective role in UVB injured keratinocyte by attenuating prostaglandin E
) production and COX-2 expression. And FDP also suppressed UVB-induced MMP-2 expression. Further, to delineate the inhibition of UVB-induced COX-2 and MMPs expression with cell signaling pathways, treatment of FDP to HaCaT keratinocytes resulted in marked inhibition of UVB-induced phosphorylation of ERK1/2, JNK. It also prevents UV induced NFB translocation, which are activated by cellular inflammatory signal. Our results indicate that FDP has protecting effects in UV-injured skin aging by decreasing UVB-induced COX-2 and MMPs expression, which are possibly through blocking UVB-induced signal cascades.
Combining Ginsenoside F1 with (-)-Epigallocatechin Gallate Synergistically Protects Human HaCaT Keratinocytes from Ultraviolet B-Induced Apoptosis
Tae Ryong, Lee ; Si Young, Cho ; Eun Hee, Lee ; Myeong Hoon, Yeom ; Ih-Seop, Chang ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 253~261
Ginsenosides and green tea extracts show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation and anti-tumor-promotion effects. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) has been reported to inhibit the UVB-induced apoptosis by increasing the Bcl-2-to-Bax ratio. We have previously shown that ginsenoside Fl protects human HaCaT cells from ultraviolet-B (UVB)-induced apoptosis by maintaining constant levels of Bcl-2 and Brn-3a. Here, we investigate the combined effect of ginsenoside Fl and EGCG on the protection of human HaCaT keratinocyte against UVB-induced apoptosis. When treated individually, although 5
M ginsenoside Fl and 50
M EGCG protected cells from UVB-induced apoptosis, 2
M ginsenoside Fl or 10
M EGCG treatment showed very little protection effect. However, cotreatement of 2
M ginsenoside Fl and 10
M EGCG successfully protected HaCaT cells from UVB-induced cell death. As expected, combining ginsenoside Fl and EGCG efficiently prevented UVB-induced decrease of Bcl-2 and Brn-3a expression. In addition, cotreatment with ginsenoside F1 and EGCG prevented the dephosphorylation of Rb, whereas individual treatment with ginsenoside Fl or EGCG failed to prevent the dephosphorylation of Rb even at high concentrations.
The Effect of Two Terpenoids, Ursolic Acid and Oleanolic Acid on Epidermal Permeability Barrier and Simultaneously on Dermal Functions
Suk Won, Lim ; Sung Won, Jung ; Sung Ku, Ahn ; Bora, Kim ; In Young, Kim ; Hee Chang , Ryoo ; Seung Hun, Lee ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 263~278
Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10
M) or UA (10
M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.
Liquid Crystalline Technology of Cosmetic Industry and Moisturizing Effect of Skin
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 30, issue 2, 2004, Pages 279~294
This study described about a liquid crystalline technology that is used in cosmetics industry. Various intermediate phases may exist between solid and liquid. At high surfactant concentration, several liquid crystalline phases can be made to have formed. Although molecular arrangement with crystallization is not regular, it is known that more relative regular state is liquid crystalline or meso-phase than liquid phase. Usually, it described in detail about manufacturing method that explained about a kind of liquid crystalline technology in cosmetics, a new liquid crystalline technology, and makes liquid crystalline. Specialty, it introduced about kind of special an emulsifier to form liquid crystalline. There were hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, DEA-cetyl phosphate, Gemini-surfactant in representative raw material to form liquid crystalline. Liquid crystalline extent that used polarization microscope to observe formation, and appears best from 400times, 600times, 1,000times well appeared. Also, droplet particle size that liquid crystal is made best 1.0-10.0
be. General emulsion more than superior result that measures the skin moisturizing effect to take advantage of liquid crystalline technology of vitamin was seen. As presence at a clinical result, wave and general emulsion more than superior result (more than 20%) that measures skin moisturizing effect about liquid crystalline of vitamin B
5/ were seen (ANOMA t-test, p<0.05)