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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 31, Issue 4 - Dec 2005
Volume 31, Issue 3 - Sep 2005
Volume 31, Issue 2 - Jun 2005
Volume 31, Issue 1 - Mar 2005
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An Analysis of the Gloss & Gloss-lasting Capability Factors of Lipstick by the Six-Sigma Measurement Tools
Kim, Kyung-Nam ; Kim, Yoon-Jeong ; Lee, Hwa-Young ; Kim, Eun-Jeong ; Cheon, Ji-Min ; Kang, Hak-Hee ; Lee, Ok-Sub ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 285~287
Using optimized standard methods, which were previously done by sensory tests, many factors have been analyzed and their significance were determined according to gloss and gloss-lasting capability in lipstick. Analyzing some factors we could conclude that the effective factors were the kind of wax, amount of volatile silicone oil, and stick hardness in the aspect of lipstick's gloss. And in the point of lipstick's gloss-lasting properties, vital few X's were quantity of volatile silicone oil stick hardness, and polymer contents and so on. We successfully have tried new analytical approach, 6-sigma to general property of lipstick. Furthermore this study will be a base on the prescription design in gloss-enhanced products.
A Novel Volumetric Method for Quantitation of Titanium Dioxide in Cosmetics
Kim, Young-So ; Kim, Boo-Min ; Park, Sang-Chul ; Jeong, Hye-Jin ; Chang, Ih-Seop ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 289~293
Nowadays there are many sun protection cosmetics including organic or inorganic UV filter as an active ingredient. Chemically stable inorganic sunsEreen agents, usually metal oxides, we widely employed in high SPF products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as pigments for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it becomes possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without whitening effect and it becomes an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitations of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redof titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III) and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to the Ti(III) by adding aluminum metals. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator In order to test accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, such as cream, make-up base, foundation and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide
. The percent recoveries of the titanium dioxide in four types of formulations were in the range between 96 and 105%. We also analyzed 7 commercial cosmetic products labeled titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those of obtained from ICP-AES (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well coincided with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrumental analytical methods, ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are the best for the analysis of titanium, it is hard to adopt because of their high prices for small cosmetic companies. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gat e quantitative and reliable results with routine lab-wares and chemicals.
Chemical Stability and Whitening Activity of Mixture of Functional Ingredients
Lee, Youn-Hee ; Lim, Nam-Hoon ; Joung, Min-Seok ; Kim, Joong-Hoi ; Sim, Sang-Soo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 295~304
Recently, arbutin, oil soluble licorice extact (GLY), ascorbyl glucoside (AA2G), and ethyl ascorbyl ether (EAE) have been widely used as functional whitening ingredients. To Investigate which combination between the above agents could be more effective for whitening effect, tyrosinase activity and MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells were investigated. Both GLY and arbutin dose-dependently inhibited purified tyrosinase activity. The inhibitory effects of GLY with AA2A or EAE on Drosinase activity were more potent than those of GLY alone, whereas that of arbutin with other ingreadients did not show those effects. In MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells, the mixture of Gly and EAE more significantly reduced melanin formation than Gly alone. Stability of mixture of GLY, arbutin, AA2A and EAE exposed at the temperature of
for 30 days were also investigated. All of the combinations of whitening agents did not show any critical changes in their composition stability. These data suggest that the combination of GLY and vitamin C derivatives such as AA2G and EAE may be useful for the promotion of whitening effect.
The Inhibitiory Effects of the Scirpi rhizoma on Melanogenesis
Lee, Bum-Chun ; Kim, Jin-Hwa ; Sim, Gwan-Sub ; Zhang, Yong-He ; Pyo, Hyeong-Bae ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 305~310
To obtain effective and safe depigmenting agents, we investigated the effects of Scirpi rhizoma, a medicine among Chinese herbs, on melanogenesis. Dried S. rhizoma was refluxed with 70% aqueous ethanol and the extract was evaporated to dryness. To determine the effects as a whitening agent, various in vitro tests were performed such as free radical scavenging activity, melanin formation assay, tyrosinase activity and expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2(western blot and RT-PCR) in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma showed scavenging activities of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the
against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and
against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. S. rhizoma significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma treatment(48 h) suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 27% at
and reduced tyrosinase activity up to 31% at
in B16 melanoma cells. S. rhizoma was also able to significantly inhibit tyrosinase and TRP-1 expression in protein and mRNA level. These results suggest that S. rhizoma inhibited melanin biosynthesis by regulating tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, S. rhizoma may be useful as a new antioxidant and whitening agent to inhibit melanogenesis.
Skin Care Effects of Green Tea
Lee, Byeong-Gon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 311~321
Tea (Camellia sinenis) is a popular beverage consumed worldwide. Since green tea, mainly consumed in Asia, has various biological activities, green tea components became one of the most favorite candidates as a functional materials for cosmetics and functional foods. The biological activities of green tea for skin cue have been ranged from protection of epidermal cells to the stimulation of extracellular matrix (ECM) biosynthesis. Green tea polyphenols (GTPs), which are active ingredients of green tea, possess anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic and immune potentiation properties as well as antioxidant. They also modulate intracellular signal transduction pathways. GTPs decrease ultraviolet (UV)-induced oxidative stress, thus suppress mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and apoptosis in keratinocytes. In addition, GTPs prevent the Induction of inflammatory mediators, such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), interleukin-8 (IL-8), and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) by tumor necrosis factor alpha
or chemical treatment in keratinocytes. GTPs treatment protects from chemical-or UV-induced skin tumor incidence in animal experiment. Besides, GTPs stimulate keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation of normal and aged epidermal cells, resectively, and suppress matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) release. According to the progress of formulation study, green tea components will be guaranteed materials for the more effective skin cue products.
Antioxidant Constituents from Melothria heterophylla; Regulation of Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Expression in Ultraviolet A-irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts
Cho, Young-Ho ; Kim, Jin-Hui ; Sim, Gwan-Sub ; Lee, Bum-Chun ; Pyo, Hyeong-Bae ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 323~327
Although many studies have been performed to elucidate the molecular consequence of ultraviolet irradiation on an aging, little is known about the effect of natural products. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) we known to play an important role in (a) photoaging. Hete we investigated the effect of
and 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid (2) on the expression of MMP-1 in UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts (products), (on the) activity of MMP-1, and (on the) scavenging activities of free radicals. Compounds 1 and 2 were isolated from Melothria heterophylla (Cucurbitaceae). These compounds were found to scavenge free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) and were measured to have the
against the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and
against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Compounds 1 and 2 showed a dose-dependent inhibitory effect on the e):pression and activity of MMP-1 in the UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. Therefore, we concluded that compounds 1 and 2 significantly inhibited MMP-1 expression at the protein level. Also, these compounds were determined to have a potent antioxidant activity. From these results, we suggest that these compounds nay be used as (a) new anti-aging agents for the photo-damaged skin.
Anti-Oxidative and Inhibitory Effect of Saussurea involucrata on MMP-1 in UVA-irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblast
Sim, Gwan-Sub ; Kim, Jin-Hwa ; Na, Young ; Lee, Dong-Hwan ; Lee, Bum-Chun ; Zhang, Yong-He ; Pyo, Hyeong-Bae ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 329~335
In order to investigate the effects of Saussurea involucrata on (relationship between) aging (and Saussurea involucrata), we examined the activities of antioxidation, in vitro MMP inhibition and UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts. S. involucrata showed scavenging activities radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the
against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and
against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. At the concentration of
, S. involucrata showed 93.27% inhibition on lipid peroxidation of linoleic acid. S. involucrata inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a does-dependent manner and the
value calculated from semi-log plots was
. Also, UVA induced MMP expression in human dermal fibroblasts was reduced 42.86% by treatment with S. involucrata, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore S. involucrata was able to significantly inhibit MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggested that S. involucrata might act as an anti-aging agent by antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-1 production.
How Skin Care Ingredient Concentrations Can Modulate the Effect of polyols and Oils on Skin Moisturization and Skin Surface Roughness
Nam, Gae-Won ; Kim, Seung-Hun ; Kim, Eun-Joo ; Kim, Jin-Han ; Chae, Byung-Guen ; Lee, Hae-Kwang ; Moon, Seong-Joon ; Kang, Hak-Hee ; Chang, Ih-Seop ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 337~342
The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested
oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.
Correlation between Cutometer and Quantitative Evaluation Using Moire Topography in Age-related Skin Elasticity
Ahn, Sung-Yeon ; Bae, Ji-Hyun ; Kim, Seung-Hun ; Lee, Hae-Kwang ; Moon, Seong-Joon ; Chang, Ih-Seop ; Lee, Ok-Sub ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 343~347
As aging occurs, ow skin gets more wrinkles, becomes drier and loses its elasticity. Validating the evaluation of skin elasticity is especially important, because it is not as visible as other signs of aging such as wrinkles. Here, we identified the correlation between age and the Parameters given by Cutometer, and (we present) the parameters of that reflect the decreases in skin elasticity along with ages (Ur/Uf, Ua/Uf, Ur/Ue, Ua,
). Also we developed an evaluation method to quantify the difference of skin by viewing or touching. A five-grade standard of Moire topographic photo scale on face was prepared using sensory evaluation of 20 to 61 year - old women. Based on this photo standard, scoring was performed using (a) 5-grade system by three specialists to obtain the consensus score. Significant negative correlations between age and results of Cutometer
, Moire topography scores (r=-938) were found. Finally we have shown the significance of the correlation between the result of Cutometer and the score of Moire topography (r=0.711). Our studies using Moire topography on face have confirmed that instrumental measurements reflect the decrease in shin elasticity, which is perceived visually.
Development of New Natural Antioxidants for Cosmeceuticals
Yoo, Ick-Dong ; Kim, Jong-Pyung ; Kim, Won-Gon ; Yun, Bong-Sik ; Ryoo, In-Ja ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 31, issue 4, 2005, Pages 349~357
New antioxidative substances for cosmeceuticals were screened from natural resources such as microbial metabolites, mushrooms, and medicinal plants. Four antioxidants were isolated from the fungal metabolite of Eupenicillium shearii and their structures were determined to be new phenolic compounds. The compounds were designated as melanocins A, B, C, and D. Melanocins
exhibited free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and superoxide with
, respectively, which were stronger activity than those of
and BHA. Melanocin A showed anti-wrinkle effects on the UV-irrated hairless mouse skin. A novel hispidin antioxidative compound designated as inoscavin A was isolated from the fruiting body of the mushroom, Inonotus xeranticus. Inoscavin A scavenged superoxide radical with
, and inhibited rat liver microsomal lipid peroxidation with
, the novel antioxidants isolated from the culture of Streptomyces nitrosporeus showed potent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity with
. A cyclopentene compound with strong hypopigmentary effect was isolated from the fungal metabolite of Penicillium sp. and identifed as terrein. Terrein significantly reduced melanin levels in a melanomacyte cell line, Mel-Ab. It showed 10 times stronger activity than kojic acid, but exhibited no cytotoxic effect even in
. It was suggested that terrein reduced melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production by MITF down-regulation.