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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 35, Issue 4 - Dec 2009
Volume 35, Issue 3 - Sep 2009
Volume 35, Issue 2 - Jun 2009
Volume 35, Issue 1 - Mar 2009
Selecting the target year
Potential Skin Whitening Agents of Natural Origin from South Asian Region
Babitha, Sumathy ; Shin, Jeong-Hyun ; Kim, Eun-Ki ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 1~9
South Asian's growing obsession with fair skin has made the cosmetic industry into a multibillion-dollar trade over the last decade alone. With reports of toxicity and potential mutagenicity of conventional skin lightening agents, cosmetic industries are looking for plant-based skin whitening formulations. In this review some potential depigmentation agents from South Asian region are discussed, including their historical background, biochemical characteristics and recent findings on their depigmenting activity.
Detection of Undeclared Betamethasone Derivatives in Cosmetic Products Labeled to Contain Zinc Pyrithione as the Active Ingredient
Lee, Jeong-Pyo ; Park, Sung-Hwan ; Yang, Seong-Jun ; Kim, Sun-Mi ; Son, Kyung-Hun ; Yun, Mi-Ok ; Choi, Sang-Sook ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 11~17
Betamethasone propionate, an anti-inflammatory glucocorticosteroid, was detected in cosmetics with no indication on the label of this compound as an ingredient. The product was formulated as a topical spray or shampoo and labeled to contain zinc pyrithione as the active ingredient. A thin-layer chromatographic analysis was carried out on silica gel plates to provide a first indication about the presence of a compound with steroid structure and reactivity; then high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) separation allowed the identification of the corticosteroid agent and its quantification. To identify the corticosteroid agent from these commercial samples we collected the fractions suspected to have ketol steroids by prep HPLC and identified the compound as betamethasone propionate by NMR and MS spectrometry. Then we synthesized the standard for the betamethasone 17-propionate and 21-propionate and quantitate the corticosteroids from the sample by HPLC with that standards. By this method we identified the corticosteroid compounds from some commercial cosmetics such as zinc pyrithione sprays. The finding of betamethasone propionate in the products was shown by comparison to an authenticated standard of betamethasone propionate by retention time on reverse-phase HPLC. Two of the tested products contained betamethasone propionate at the levels of 0.005
0.02% and the others were free of betamethasone propionate.
Screening System Establishment for Potential Anti-wrinkle Agents Using Human Fibroblast Elastase
Oh, Mi-Hee ; Lee, Ju-Eun ; Kim, Su-Yeon ; Kim, So-Young ; Park, Kyoung-Chan ; Yun, Hye-Young ; Baek, Kwang-Jin ; Kwon, Nyoun-Soo ; Kim, Dong-Seok ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 19~25
It has been reported that not only collagen but also elastin contribute to inhibit skin wrinkle formation. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces photo-aging on human skin. Because UV radiation increases elastase activity, it is thought that increased elastase activity could be the major reason for skin elasticity reduction and wrinkle formation by UV. In the present study to standardize elastase activity measuring system, purified elastases from porcine pancrease and human neutrophil, and cell extracts of normal human primary fibroblasts, 3T3 mouse fibroblasts, and CCD-25Sk human fibroblasts were used as various enzyme sources. Furthermore, elastase activities were compared according to concentrations of enzyme and substrate and incubation time. Phosphoramidon was used as a positive control to inhibit elastase activities of normal human primary fibroblasts and CCD-25Sk fibroblasts. However, it had no influence on the activity of porcine pancreatic elastase. Therefore, it is suggested that elastase used for testing anti-wrinkle agents should be selected carefully.
Heavy Metal Analysis of Inhabitants from City of the Seoul, Korea
Im, Eun-Jin ; Ha, Byung-Jo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 27~32
Human hair is an excretory system for trace metals and thus metal content in human hair can reflect the body status. The investigation of trace elements in human hair has been correlated with the diagnosis of various diseases as well as the monitoring of deficiency statues in nutrition. Many chronic diseases may be related to mineral status, some may be related to toxic mineral. Hair samples were collected from 120 inhabitants of the city of Seoul, Korea. In this study the concentrations of 10 elements (Hg, Pb, Cd, Al, As, U, Bi, Sb, Ba, Be) in hair were determined by inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy (ICP-MS). The conclusions showed that people in Seoul, Korea were affected by some kinds of toxic minerals. The Hg concentrations of male are higher than those of female and reference range. The mean concentration of Sb was higher in the female than male and reference range. In age distribution, the mean concentration of Hg was in 40's are higher than 20's and 30's and reference range. The concentrations of Al were the highest in the 20's. After analyzing, we concluded that a compounded treatment should be conducted, which considers the variety of factors related to detoxification.
The Inhibitory Effects of Pogostemon cablin Bentham Extract on Melanogenesis
Bae, Seong-Yun ; Lee, Eung-Ji ; Son, Rak-Ho ; Lee, Yong-Hwa ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 33~39
To develop a new natural whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin Bentham extracts (PCE) and its active component on melanogenesis. PCE showed ROS scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the
, respectively. PCE reduced melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependant manner and decreased to about 23 % at a concentration of
without cell cytotoxicity (below
). And the PCE reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 18 % at concentration of
. We purified one active compound from PCE and identified its structure. It was identified as patchouli alcohol, sesquiterpene family, by 1H-NMR,
-NMR, and Mass analysis. Patchouli alcohol also inhibited ROS scavenging activities in DPPH radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the
, respectively. Patchouli alcohol inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (
). And the patchouli alcohol reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 40 % at concentration of
. Patchouli alcohol inhibited tyrosinase and TRP-2 expression at protein level. These results suggest that PCE and patchouli alcohol reduced melanin formation by the inhibited of tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, we suggest that PCE could be used as a useful whitening agent.
Low-temperature Rendering Technology Applied to Extract Black Beans, Peony and Green Tea for Scalp Repair
Min, Dae-Jin ; Park, Nok-Hyun ; Hwang, Jung-Sun ; Moon, Sung-Ho ; Lee, Ki-Hyun ; Lee, John-Hwan ; Ahn, Soo-Mi ; Kim, Han-Kon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 41~46
Problems with scalp lead to hair loss, dandruff, itchiness, and other illness. No clear causes of these problems have been found and it is difficult to treat them. Therefore, the best way to prevent and treat any problems with scalp is to maintain physiological homeostasis of scalp to keep it healthy. Recently, many scalp and hair product brands have attempted to use medicinal herbs which have been extracted in hot water and mixed with other ingredients due to mass-production and standardization issues. However, many nutrients and active substances are destroyed by hot-water extraction. Therefore, this study has applied low-temperature rendering to minimize destruction of substances to extract black beans, peony, and green tea that are known to improve conditions of scalp. Then, their contribution to the improvement of scalp health was assessed. In result, it was found that low-temperature rendering retains over two times greater anti-oxidizing strengths than hot-water extraction and that the extracts from low-temperature rendering effectively strengthen follicles and hair, moisturize scalp, and prevent itchiness. Therefore, low-temperature rendered black beans, peony, and green tea extracts can be used to make effective scalp treatments.
Antioxidative Activity and Component Analysis of Fermented Melissa officinalis Extracts
Yang, Hee-Jung ; Kim, Eun-Hee ; Park, Jung-Ok ; Kim, Jung-Eun ; Park, Soo-Nam ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 47~55
In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component analysis of fermented Melissa officinalis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (
) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities (
) of extract/fractions of M. officinalis. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (
) of some M. officinalis extracts on ROS generated in
system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (
) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of M. officinalis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The M. officinalis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (
). The inhibitory effect of M. officinalis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects (
) on tyrosinase of some M. officinalis extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (
) < ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (
) < ethylacetate fraction (
). Fractions of ethyl acetate both from ordinary and fermented M. officinalis extracts showed 2 band in TLC and 2 peak in HPLC (330 nm). In HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction, peak 1 (51.64 %) and peak 2 (48.36 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. Also, in HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract, peak 1 (4.13 %) and peak 2 (95.87 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. These results indicate that the component and content of ordinary and fermented extracts of M. officinalis are different. And the extract of M. officinalis can be used as an antioxidant.
Anti-aging and Anti-melanogenesis Efficacy by Antioxidative Mineral-bio Water
Choi, Hyun-Kyung ; Oh, Myoung-Jin ; Her, Myeong-Jun ; Kyeong, Kyeong-Hwan ; Park, Chang-Seo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 57~63
UV irradiated skin cells produce reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS is known to be the primary cause of skin inflammation that is eventually leading to skin aging through decrease of collagen in the dermis. In this study, we evaluated basic efficacy of anti-aging, anti-inflammation and anti-melanogenesis using two antioxidative mineral-bio waters (Mineral-bio water 1 (MIBA-W1) and Mineral-bio water 2 (MIBA-W2)). Both antioxidative mineral-bio waters reduced TNF-
expression which was induced upon UV irradiation. MIBA-W 1 increased collagen synthesis from UVB irradiated fibroblast at 0.01 % concentration but MIBA-W2 shows slight, but linear increase. Stimulation of melanogenesis by
-MSH treatment in the cultured B16-F1 melanoma was significantly reduced by the treatment of MIBA-W2 in a dose dependent manner. Taken together, antioxidative MIBA-W1 and 2 seem to have potential applications as functional cosmetic materials.
Effects of Vegetable Peptones on Promotion of Cell Proliferation and Collagen Production
Jung, Eun-Sun ; Lee, Jong-Sung ; Lee, Jienny ; Huh, Sung-Ran ; Kim, Young-Soo ; Hwang, Wang-Taek ; Park, Deok-Hoon ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 65~72
Skin aging appears to be principally attributed to a decrease in both levels of Type I collagen and regeneration ability of dermal fibroblasts. It is important to introduce an efficient and safe agent for effective management of skin aging. To this end, we performed screening for anti-ageing agents and then found that vegetable peptones (pea and wheat) promoted cell proliferation of adult stem cells. Vegetable peptones may be considered as useful medium additives because it can supply nutrients, peptides, amino acids or growth factor analogues. This study was designed to investigate effects of vegetable peptones on cell proliferation/collagen production and their possible mechanisms in human dermal fibroblasts. In cell proliferation assay, vegetable peptones significantly promoted cell proliferation in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, human COL1A2 promoter luciferase and type I procollagen synthesis assays showed that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of COLlA2 promoter. In both TGF-
luciferase reporter and ELISA assays, vegetable peptones was found to induce TGF-
production, suggesting that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of TGF-
. When applied topically in a human skin twice a day for an 4-week period of time, vegetable peptones did not induce any adverse reactions. Theretore, based on these results, we suggest the possibility that vegetable peptones may be considered as an attractive, wrinkle-reducing candidate for topical application.
Whitening Effect of Dayflower (Commelina communis L.) Extract by Inhibition of N-Linked Glycosylation Process and Melanogenesis
Park, Sun-Hee ; Lee, Bang-Yong ; Lee, Seung-Hyun ; Han, Chang-Sung ; Kim, Jin-Guk ; Kim, Kyoung-Tae ; Kim, Ki-Ho ; Kim, Young-Heui ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 35, issue 1, 2009, Pages 73~78
In order to investigate the potential of a Dayflower (Commelina communis L.) extract as an active in gredient for whitening cosmetics, we prepared aqueous Commelina communis L. extract We measured its mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity, cellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin synthesis inhibitory activity in B16 melanoma cells. It did not show inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase but showed melanin synthesis inhibitory activity. In a melanin synthesis inhibition assay using mouse B16-F10 melanoma cell, it suppressed melanin production up to 32% at a concentration of
without cytotoxicity, and also reduced cellular tyrosinase activity to above 50 % above the concentration of
. In study on the melanogenic protein expressions, it had especially influence on expression of tyrosinase protein, which is a well-known key protein on melanogenesis, and tyrosinase expression was gradually decreased in a dose-dependent. Dayflower also blocked N-glycosylation of TRP-2, but affected on the expression of TRP-1 rather than on blocking of N-glycosylation processing. Therefore, this result suggests that aqueous Commelina communis L. extract could be used as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.