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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Journal DOI :
Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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Volume & Issues
Volume 36, Issue 4 - Dec 2010
Volume 36, Issue 3 - Sep 2010
Volume 36, Issue 2 - Jun 2010
Volume 36, Issue 1 - Mar 2010
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Cosmetic Emulsions: Stabilization by Particles
Cho, Wan-Goo ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 1~16
The preparation and properties of emulsions stabilized by the adsorption of solid particles at the oil-water interface are reviewed. Comparison is made with the behaviour of surfactant-stabilized emulsions. Many of the properties of Pickering emulsions are attributed to the large free energy of adsorption for particles. The main differences is due to the irreversible adsorption of particles to the interface. Phase inversion from w/o (water-in-oil) to o/w (oil-in-water) can be brought by increasing the volume fraction of water. Hydrophilic particles tend to form o/w emulsion whereas hydrophobic particles form w/o emulsion. The contact angle at the oil-water interface is main parameter to decide the emulsion type. The aspects of stability of Pickering emulsions are in contrast to general emulsions in some points. The possibility using Pickering emulsions for cosmetics is also proposed.
Synthesis of Polymers in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
Lee, Hyun-Suk ; Kim, Jin-Woong ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 17~32
This review shows the design and the development of new
-soluble hydrocarbon copolymers which can be used as effective stabilizers for successful dispersion polymerizations of bio-compatible materials in supercritical carbon dioxide (
). The basic concepts of supercritical fluid including its solvent properties and applications in polymer synthesis are described. We report the facile synthesis of highly soluble hydrocarbon based copolymers, prepared with good control via controlled free radical polymerization from readily accessible and commercially available monomers. The phase behaviour of these materials was monitored in pure
to investigate how the molecular weights and the composition of the copolymers affect their solubility in
. Their activity as a stabilizer was then tested in dispersion polymerization of N-vinyl pyrrolidone in
at various reaction conditions to identify the key parameters required for a successful dispersion stabilization of growing PVP particles. Some prospective potentials of this research which can be applied in developing new polymer materials in an environmentally-friendly fashion for use in cosmetics are also discussed.
The Natural Hair Dyeing using Extracts of the Pueraria thunbergiana Root
Lee, Ouk-Kyu ; Yoon, Yeong-Min ; Lee, Hyun-Jin ; An, Sung-Kwan ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 33~39
Recently. dyeing by harmless natural materials has received much attention due to the side-effects occurred from dyeing by synthetic dyes. In this study, we examined the effect of extracts of Pueraria thunbergiana (P. thunbergiana) roots, which are treated as natural products as well as agricultural wastes, on the hair dyeing by measuring dyeing interval, temperature, density changes, mordant and chromatic faction. The hair dyeing by the extracts significantly reduced hair damage and kept cuticle of hair softer than that by synthetic dyes. In addition, since a mordant is one of the necessary additives in dyeing, the role of a mordant was studied and concluded to be a supplementary substance based on the results that the hair dyeing by the extracts of P. thunbergiana roots alone was much darker than the others. Taken together, the data presented in this study suggest that the extracts of P. thunbergiana roots are is less damageable to hair and thus can be more safely applicable to hair dyes than that by synthetic dyes.
Moisturizing Effect in Emulsion Body Cleansing System
Shin, Moon-Sam ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 41~45
Emulsion body cleansing systems containing high levels of occlusives have recently been developed such as using insoluble crystalline hydroxy waxes, insoluble crystalline surfactant structures, encapsulated particles and smectite clay. In this study, moisturizing effect of various occlusives such as petrolatum and triglycerides was researched in emulsion body cleansing systems. The experiment shows that petrolatum has less moisturizing capacity in emulsion body cleansing systems than triglycerides. In "leave-on" products such as lotion and cream formulations, the moisturizing capacity of petrolatum is more than that of triglycerides, but in "wash-off" emulsion body cleanser of this research, different results appeared. Emulsion body cleansing systems contained high levels of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, therefore petrolatum has more solubility and less deposited amount into the skin during washing process than triglycerides.
Studies on the in vitro SPF Assay and Application of Cosmetic Formulation of Methoxycinnamidopropyl Polysilsesquioxane with a New UV-screening Agent
Jung, Taek-Kyu ; Kim, Young-Back ; Yoon, Tae-Jin ; Yoon, Kyung-Sup ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 47~55
UV-screening agents have some adverse effects that raise consumers' concern. The organic agents often cause irritation and may penetrate into human body while the inorganic agents raise aesthetic issues because they often turn opaque. Organic agents with high molecular weights and nano-sized inorganic agents have been developed respectively to minimize transdermal intrusion into human body and suppress turning opaque. Recently, we reported preparation of powdery UV-screening agents made of polysilsesquioxane, an organic-inorganic hybrid material. Powders would not penetrate into epidermis and organic-inorganic hybrid nature would suppress the opaqueness problem. In this study, we continued our research on this powdery polysilsesquioxane UV-screening agent, SESQUV, regarding its chemical composition, its synergic UV-screening effects when mixed with other organic agents, and its applicability in practical formulation. Results showed SESQUV was promising UV-screening agents useful in sunscreen formulation.
Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of Medicinal Plants Against Acne-inducing Bacteria
Lee, Eung-Ji ; Bae, Seong-Yun ; NamKung, Woo ; Lee, Yong-Hwa ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 57~63
To develop natural therapeutic agents for acne vulgaris, we investigated antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of various medicinal plant extracts. Among candidate extracts, we selected Psoralea corylifolia L. extract (AC-1) and Magnoliae officinalis extract (AC-2) which showed the relatively high antibacterial effects, and Inula helenium L. extract (ACF-1) and Chrysanthemum zawadskii var. latilobum extract (ACF-2) which showed the relatively high anti-inflammatory effects for further investigations. All of them did not show cytotoxic effects below the concentration of
. The antibacterial effects of AC-1, AC-2 and extract complex (AC) against P. acnes were 2.8, 2.5 and 3.2 times higher than that of 10 % salicylic acid respectively. And the antibacterial effect of AC-2 and extract complex against S. aureus were 1.4 and 1.5 times higher than that of 10 % methylparaben respectively. Also, it was shown that ACF-1, ACF-2 and extract complex had anti-inflammatory effects. All of them exhibited inhibitory effects for the secretion of IL-8 and TNF-
from THP-1 cells activated by heat-killed P. acnes. They reduced about 27 %, 38 %, 44 % of IL-8 secretion and 90 %, 88 %, 90 % of TNF-
secretion at concentration of
respectively. These results showed that the complex of medicinal plant extracts, AC-1. AC-2, ACF-1, and ACF-2, had therapeutic effects to acne vulgaris through antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, we suggest that extract complex of AC-1, AC-2, ACF-1 and ACF-2 may be used as a useful agent for development of natural cosmetics which have therapeutic effects to acne vulgaris.
A Study on the Skin Anti-wrinkle Effect of Novel Palmitoyl Tripeptide
Bae, Soon-Min ; Ahn, Yong-Hoon ; Jung, Jin-Kyo ; Hwang, Jeong-Geun ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 65~69
Collagen is the most abundant animal protein in mammals, accounting for about 30 % of all proteins. It is present in connective tissue and contributes to the structural framework of most organs. The tripeptide (glycineproline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Tripeptide-29 is main component of collagen type I. The palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Paimitoyi Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production. We synthesized the palmitoyl tripeptide as a potential anti-wrinkle compound. This compound has been characterized using HPLC. This compound proved, through in vitro tests, to stimulate collagen production and fibroblast proliferation. These results were very promising, so human studies were subsequently performed. We investigated the skin improvement effect of the palrnitoyl tripeptide on human skin by using non-invasive instruments. We measured physiological effects such as skin wrinkles and elasticity after volunteers applied the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We observed significant improvement in skin wrinkles and elasticity after use of the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We concluded that the palmitoyl tripeptide had an anti-aging effect on human facial skin.
A Study on the Azolla imbricata using as a Cosmetic Active Ingredient
Song, Min-Hyeon ; Bae, Jun-Tae ; Lee, Geun-Su ; Zhang, Yong-He ; Pyo, Hyeong-Bae ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 71~77
The water fern Azolla belongs to the Azollaceae and forms a symbiotic association with a
-fixing cyanobacterium, referred to as Anabaena azollae, and this association has currently been demonstrated to have potential as a nitrogen source for rice production. Because of that, Azolla fern has been used not only as organic manure in southern China and northern Vietnam for a long time but also as food for animate creatures in the underwater and decontaminant in the water. However, the phenolic compounds and active materials of Azolla have not been examined in detail in the past studies. In the present study, anti-oxidant ability test and experiment to find a particular active material of Azolla imbricata and Azolla imbricata fraction (AIF) were performed. In anti-oxidant test such as DPPH test and lipoxygenase inhibition test, the value of test represented high activities compared with authentic sample - green tea and NDGA (nordihydroguaiaretic acid). In MMP-1 test, related to collagen protection and elasticity of skin, its inhibitory effect was measured over 75 %, and the phenolic compounds of AIF related with this activity were confirmed luteolin derivatives by using FT-IR spectroscopy, element analyzer (EA) and Liquid chromatography-MASS spectroscopy.
Protective Effect of Marine Natural Products against UVB-induced Damages in Human Skin Fibroblast via Antioxidant Mechanism
Jang, Jung-Hee ; Lee, Chan ; Kim, Sang-Chan ; Chung, Ji-Wook ; Park, Chan-Ik ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 79~87
Ultraviolet is the one of the main environmental factors promoting aging process via increased intracellular generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and decreased expression of endogenous antioxidant enzymes and molecules. Therefore, in this study, we tried to search for natural skin-protective antioxidant materials from marine origins (Porphyra Thalli, Laminariae japonicae thallus, Ostreae Concha, Sargassum Thallus, Undaria thallus, Haliotidis Concha, Codium thalli, Syngnathoides biaculeatus, Hippocampus, Stichopus Stichopus, Thalli, Hizikia fusiforme thalli) which exhibit free radical scavenging activity and protect against UVB-induced cytotoxicity and oxidative cell death. Free radical scavenging activity was shown in order of Undaria thallus. Sargassum Thallus, Laminariae japonicae thallus, Hippocampus, Haliotidis Concha, Ostreae Concha, Syngnathoides biacuJeatus. In another experiment, UVB-induced cytotoxicity and cell death were effectively suppressed by treatment of Sargassum Thallus, Haliotidis Concha, Codium thalli, or Hippocampus water extract. Furthermore, UVB-induced cell death was mediated by intracellular accumulation or ROS, which was significantly inhibited by treatment with aforementioned extracts. The protective effect of these marine natural products seemed to be mediated by increased expression of antioxidant enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, and heme oxygenase-1. These results suggest that Sargassum Thallus, Haliotidis Concha, Codium thalli, and Hippocampus may have preventive and protective potentials as new functional cosmetics against oxidative stress-mediated skin damages and aging with antioxidant properties.
Component Analysis of Persicaria hydropiper L. Extracts
Kim, Jung-Eun ; Kim, Eun-Hee ; Park, Soo-Nam ;
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, volume 36, issue 1, 2010, Pages 89~92
In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity, antiaging activity, antibacterial activity and moisturizing effect of cream containing Persicaria hydropiper L. extract. In this study, the components of Persicaria hydropiper L. extract were analyzed by TLC and HPLC. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Persicaria hydropiper L. extract, showed 2 bands and 2 peaks in TLC and HPLC experiments, respectively. Two components were identified as quercetin and kaempferol. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extract revealed 6 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 7 peaks, which were identified as quercetin, hyperin, isoquercitrin, quercitrin, kaempferol. In conclusion, with the antioxidative activity, antiaging activity, antibacterial activity and moisturizing effect reported previously, component analysis of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts could be applicable to new cosmeceuticals.