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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 10, Issue 6 - Dec 2008
Volume 10, Issue 5 - Oct 2008
Volume 10, Issue 4 - Aug 2008
Volume 10, Issue 3 - Jun 2008
Volume 10, Issue 2 - Apr 2008
Volume 10, Issue 1 - Feb 2008
Selecting the target year
컴퓨터 횡편기의 최신 동향
Kim, Yeong-Ju ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 423~425
A Study of Fashion Concept on the Expression of Mechanical Beauty in Early Twentieth Century
Ham, Youn-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 426~435
The purpose of this study is to consider the changes of the early twentieth century fashion in pursuit of mechanical beauty. As for the research methodology, literature survey has been undertaken. The results of this study are as following. In early twentieth century, fashion concept on the expression of mechanical beauty was considered as abstractness, atypicality, and high-tech. The abstractness of fashion was expressed by geometrical purity, box silhouette, moderate color, and cheap materials in association with mechanical reasonability and efficiency. The atypicality of fashion was connected progressive taste motivated by mechanical dynamic effect. This tendency of dress was constructed technically in response with the movement of body and totally transgressed conventional notions of clothing. The high-tech of fashion was presented by geometrical forms and metal materials in relation with the future-oriented utopia and the harmony between human and machine.
A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Recycle Fashion
Kim, Sae-Bom ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 436~444
Recycle fashion is suggested to the suitable alternative of the environmental problem and the exhaustion of natural resources. The purpose of this study is focused on trying to comprehend between design characteristics and aesthetic values of recycle fashion design and those from fashion brands, fashion designers, and the public. For such purpose, 1553 photos of recycle fashion design which appeared in web-site, newspaper, fashion magazines between 2002 and 2007 were analyzed. Method of analysis did content analysis. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. First, design characteristics of recycle fashion were expressed by Junk Recycle Look, Vintage Recycle Look, Contemporary Recycle Look, Artisanal Recycle Look. Second, the expression methods of recycle fashion were presented reuse, reform, and regeneration. Third, aesthetic values of recycle fashion can be explained by the promotion of environment, the variableness, and the deconstruction.
A Study on Baseline Taping for Dress Form
Jung, Kyung-Won ; Nam, Yun-Ja ; Lee, Jeong-Yim ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 445~454
The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.
A Research Study on the Actual Conditions of Clothing of Disabled Men using Wheelchair
Park, Kwang-Ae ; Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 455~463
The purpose of this study is to investigate the actual conditions of clothing of disabled adult men using wheelchair, to understand dissatisfactions and problems in wearing garment, and to construct basic data to development of the formal wear for wheelchair user. This study conducted survey of 162 men using wheelchair who regularly enjoy the sports for disabled people or who work in society. The results of this study are follows. The majority of wheelchair user tend to wear garment lying or seating. Therefore, they prefer garments that can be easily put on and off. They were dissatisfied mostly with the size of ready-made garment. More than 75% of the subjects tend to repair the purchased formal wear. Shoulder width and bust circumference are too small, jacket length, sleeve length, and slacks length are too big for disabled men using wheelchair. More than 93% subjects tend to prefer T-shirts, because of comfort and easiness to move. The men using wheelchair consider the function and the hygiene of fabric material for T-shirts as the important end.
Fashion Designs for Wearable Computer in Ubiquitous Environment
Kim, Jee-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 464~472
Wearable computer focuses on functional aspects of fashion to respond to and satisfy needs for daily availability of ubiquitous environment owing to ever-developing digital technologies. The purpose of this study is to examine in possible developmental direction of wearable computer and thereby explore more promising directions of wearable computer to enhance its adaptability to future advanced ubiquitous environment and also satisfy both esthetical and functional needs. Now the wearable computer can be classified broadly into 3 types in the aspect of functionality, i.e. computer containing 'integratability', 'convertibility' and 'interactability'. Beyond simple portability concepts based on digital devices attached on body, it will be necessary that follow-up studies on wearable computer satisfy needs for enhanced digital functionality to comply with ubiquitous environment as well as emotional needs inherent in clothing. It is expected that possibility of future wearable computer will be extended via collaborative relationships between design and functionality, and should be implemented through possible points of contact among computer, telecommunication, design and fashion. Based on the findings of this study, it is expected that follow-up researches and developments for wearable computer to meet both functionality and esthetical values in the aspect of 'fashion design combined with electronic products' will help assure the variety of fashion designs for wearable computer contributing to better life quality of human in future ubiquitous environment.
The development of Usability Evaluation Criterion for sensor based smart clothing
Cho, Ha-Kyung ; Lee, Joo-Hyeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 473~478
Since the late 1990, "Smart clothing" has been developed in a various way to meet user centered design and human engineering that considered usability, wearability with clothing. Under this circumstance, research and development of smart clothing has been demanded usability and wearability test. But, Study of the usability evaluation for sensor based smart clothing is insufficient. In this study, we suggest criterion of usability evaluation for sensor based smart clothing that evaluate on the point of view such as wearability of clothing, interaction of clothing and devices, interaction of body and devices. we performed qualitative and quantitative test with developed smart clothing to present usability evaluation criterion for sensor based smart clothing. As a result, total 7 categories such as 'usefulness', 'wearability', 'appearance', 'riskness', 'facility of management', 'perceived change', were extracted as the usability and wearability criterion. Additionally, 28 factors of evaluation criterion for sensor based smart clothing were indicated on the result of this research. This study have meaning to indicate usability evaluation criterion for sensor based smart clothing.
A study on Textile Designs Incorporating Korean Traditional Arabesque Pattern
Lee, Youn-Soon ; Kwon, Hyun-Jung ; Lee, Jung-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 479~488
The purpose of this study was to re-interpret the traditional patterns in modern point of view and connect them to the apparel textile design to use them widely in our real life. For this, a documentary research on the traditional patterns and arabesque patterns was made first, and then, through the manual and photoshop workings, two apparel textile designs were suggested. As a result, the followings were acquired: First, the arabesque pattern, which is a traditional pattern of Korea, has a continuous life power and a natural formative characteristics. In its pattern, there is an abundant possibility of change. So, it has a wide usability regardless of time and space. As the symbolic image of the arabesque pattern is connected with the instinctive beauty sense of human beings, it has shown the more adhesive affinity that any other materials. Second, two kinds of textile design were suggested. The motif of work 1, "Fragrance of Woman," was the richness and the harmony, and so a lotus arabesque pattern was selected to present its concept, "Classic Elegance." The expression technique was to use a manual work and cloths to make it a voluminous one. The motif of work 2, "Green Field" was to show the clean beauty with a lotus arabesque pattern. Its concept was the "Natural Elegance," and the expression technique was to repeat the motif by using the Adobe Photoshop to complete the work.
Research on Images of Hair up-styles and Wedding Dress Styles of Prospective Brides
Shin, Yang-Hee ; Sung, Kwang-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 489~498
This study is on the image evaluation of the hair up-style and the wedding dress styles of prospective brides. Based on some prior theoretical studies, and information obtained from wedding magazines and interviews conducted at the beauty business places, four kinds of the hair up-style were selected, namely, top-point, golden-point, back-point, and nape point. Three styles of necklines were selected: boat necklines, V-necklines, and off-shoulder necklines. The surveyor herself did the hair styling for models, and dressed up the models, to produce the stimuli. And the stimuli were presented to percipients along with questionnaires for measuring the image evaluations. Prepared were total 12 different kinds of stimuli, in which four hair up-styles and three dress styles were combined into 12 combinations (
), and, with respect to these 12 stimuli, 26 itemized questions were included in the questionnaire. From the factor analysis on the image evaluation of the hair up- style and wedding dresses, five factors were derived as fallowing: attractiveness, boldness, purity, cuteness, feminity. This study revealed that wedding dress styles are more sensitive to the contemporary trend, compared to the hair styles; and the selection in the wedding style is quite influenced by the dress style, but not by the hair up-style. Also, prospective brides evaluated the hair up-styles and the wedding dress styles separately without recognizing their mutual relationship, and thus did not recognize the two as the mutually coordinated relationship, but rather recognize the two as two separate elements.
The Relations between Brand Attachment and Brand Loyalty with regard to Symbolic Consumption Propensity toward Fashion Goods
Kim, Jeong-Ran ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 499~505
The Purpose of this study is to research the relations between brand attachment and brand loyalty depending on symbolic consumption propensity toward fashion goods. Subjects were 391 women in their twenties to fifties who live in Gyungsang Province and have purchased the fashion goods. Frequency analysis, reliability analysis, factor analysis, multiple regression analysis, and one-way layout variance analysis were conducted using SPSS 13.0 as data analysis. The findings from the analysis are described in the following: Uniqueness and materialism out of the symbolic consumption propensity toward fashion goods had positive effects on the elements of brand attachment such as love, care, and knowledge. Brand loyalty was influenced positively by social face sensitivity and materialism among symbolic consumption toward fashion goods.
Effect of Attitude towards Parent Brand on Extended Fashion Product in Fashion Brand Extension
Rhee, Young-Ju ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 506~514
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of attitude towards parent brand on extended fashion products in case of fashion brand extension. The subjects of this study were 386 college students and data were collected using survey questionnaire. For data analysis, factor analysis and path analysis were applied. The results showed that there were four factors (e.g., familiarity attitude, emotional attitude, value-expressive attitude, utility information attitude) in attitude towards parent brand and six factors (e.g., economical risk, utilitarian risk, social risk, psychological risk, time/advantage loss risk, risk for losing opportunity) under perceived risk in extended product. The results showed that attitude towards parent brand had a negative effect on perceived risk in extended products and had a positive effect on attitude towards extended products. Perceived risk in extended products then had a negative effect on purchase intention of extended products whereas attitude towards extended products had a positive effect on purchase intention of extended products.
Purchasing Behavior of Apparel Products of Consumers with Solo Shopper Orientation
Hwang, Yeon-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 515~525
The primary purpose of this study was to investigate consumers' purchasing behavior of apparel products with solo shopping orientation. The data were collected in Busan and Ulsan from 279 adult women. The aforementioned were analyzed utilizing frequency, factor analysis, simple regression analysis, multiple regression analysis and chi-square(
) test using SPSS Win 12.0. The results showed as follows. The motive factors to alone purchasing behavior of apparel products of consumers were convenience, hedonic aim, consumption centered oneself, load to going together, nonexpected shopping and time utilization. Specially the higher consumers recognized importantly convenience and hedonic aim, the higher they had a solo shopping orientation. The more consumers experienced feelings such as hedonic aim, it was the same. Also the high consumers satisfied on purchase of apparel products, it was just the same.
A Study on Fashion Behavior and Make-up Behavior in terms of the Lifestyle of Post Digital Generation
Jung, Yun-Hee ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 526~536
This study is to analyze and examine the relations of lifestyle, fashion behavior, and make-up behavior of post digital generation and to provide the basic data which help to establish and perform the distinctive marketing strategies targeting the post digital generation. Subjects were 1,460 male and female undergraduates who attend colleges or universities in Seoul, Busan, and Daegu. Average, standard deviation, MANOVA, and ANOVA were conducted using SPSS 12.0 statistic program. The results were as follows: The higher points the group got in all the subfactors regarding information seeking pursuit and sensation intention fascination pursuit, the higher points the group had in the subfactors of fashion behavior and make-up behavior. The group with higher fashionenjoyment pursuit appeared to seek after more brand price choice behavior, internet shopping purchasing behavior, fashion information source seeking behavior, and impulse buying behavior in the subfactors of fashion behavior as well as more self-satisfaction appearance orientation and fashion information buying orientation in the subfactors of make-up behavior. With the group in pursuit of more multi activities, not only were brand price choice behavior and fashion information source seeking behavior in the subfactors of fashion behavior sought after more, but self-satisfaction appearance orientation and fashion information buying orientation in the subfactors of make-up behavior were pursued more as well. The more interpersonal relations the group had, the more self-satisfaction appearance orientation and fashion information buying orientation in the subfactors of make-up behavior as well as the more brand price choice behavior, fashion information source seeking behavior, impulse buying behavior, other-regarding behavior and independent buying behavior in the subfactors of fashion behavior the group had.
Evaluation of Comfort and Hand Characteristics of Lining Fabrics
Shim, Huen-Sup ; McCullough, Elizabeth A. ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 537~543
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the comfort and fabric hand characteristics of selected lining fabrics made of acetate and polyester. The comfort of the linings was determined by human subjects wearing suit blazers constructed with different lining materials in an environmental chamber controlled at
air temperature and 50% relative humidity. The hand characteristics of the lining fabrics were determined by five trained panelists using standard fabric reference samples. The effect of lining fabrics on the subjects' thermal sensations was not statistically significant. But the subjects voted warmer when wearing the polyester surah lined blazer or the polyester taffeta blazer than wearing the acetate blazers. The results of the subjective comfort evaluation indicated that, in general, the subjects rated the acetate linings significantly less sticky, clammy, damp, and non-absorbent than the polyester linings. Acetate surah was rated a little higher than the other acetate fabrics on these comfort descriptors. The results of the subjective hand evaluation indicated that the lining fabrics rated low on the geometric and mechanical hand characteristics and rated moderate on noise. Acetate surah scored the highest on most of the hand characteristics, whereas, polyester taffeta scored the lowest.
Natural Dyeing of Chitosan Crossinked Cotton Fabrics(III) - Amur cork tree -
Kwak, Mi-Jung ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 544~551
In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.
Bicomponent Finishing of Cotton Fabrics(I) -Loess and Chitosan-
Bae, Ki-Hyun ; Kwon, Jung-Sook ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 552~559
Recent days, various inner wears, sheets and interior goods are manufactured using materials dyed with loess emphasizing its improved blood circulation, metabolism, anti-bacterial, deodorizing properties, and far-infrared ray emissions. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using loess as colorants. Particle size of loess, the morphology and dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics, and washing durability of loess dyed cotton fabric were investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent, epichlorohydrin, in the presence of chitosan to improve the dyeing properties of cotton fabrics with natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of loess was
. According to various conditions, the optimum dyeing conditions for cotton fabrics pretreated by 1% chitosan treatment was where 10%(owb) of loess was applied at
for 120minutes, while for cotton fabrics without chitosan treatment was where 15%(owb) of loess was applied at
for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of loess dyed cotton fabric pretreated with 1% chitosan was higher than that of cotton fabrics without chitosan treatment. The Color fastness, washing fastness and light fastness of loess were excellent as 4-5grade.
(A) Study on Natural Dyeing of polyester(I) - Ginseng Microcapsules -
Min, Kyung-Hae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 560~565
Plantae of the natural material has been broadly used on cloth dyeing by it's specific properties such as eco-friendly and innoxious. However dyeing with natural material on synthetic fiber is nearly impossible due to poor affinity between natural material and synthetic fiber. The method which is binding with micro-capsulized natural material to cloth, used in this study, has low change on quality by external influence. Also this method has high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when the treated cloth was dressed. And this method is applicable widely from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is to develop the multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Ginseng on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dyeability showed a little bit low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip dyed PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness were revealed some different grades by each condition but showed high level, in most and the micro-capsulized PET was more improver than regular dip dyed PET.
Relationship Between Frictional Sounds and Mechanical Properties of Vapor Permeable Water Repellent Fabrics for Active Wear
Yang, Yoon-Jung ; Park, Mi-Ran ; Cho, Gil-Soo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 4, 2008, Pages 566~571
Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(
) and the frequency difference(
). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing.
values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of
were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness.
was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and
with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight.
were predicted by tensile linearity, and
by tensile linearity and thickness.