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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 10, Issue 6 - Dec 2008
Volume 10, Issue 5 - Oct 2008
Volume 10, Issue 4 - Aug 2008
Volume 10, Issue 3 - Jun 2008
Volume 10, Issue 2 - Apr 2008
Volume 10, Issue 1 - Feb 2008
Selecting the target year
Jang, Uk-Seon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 583~588
The Market Segmentation by the Mixture Model and Characteristics of the Segmented Home-Shoppers Market
Seo, Jeong-Ah ; Lee, Jin-Hwa ; Kwak, Young-Sik ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 589~600
The purpose of the study was to segment home-shoppers by the Mixture model and to examine the characteristics of the segmented markets. Total 700 copies of questionnaires were distributed to home-shoppers more than 19 years old in Seoul and Busan and analyzed 638 copies with the Mixture model using LatentGold Program. The results of the study were as follows: In the segmented market 1, women in forties and housewives with a lowly educated person purchased for the most part from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M and the study named them as the average home shopping purchaser group. In the segmented market 2, men in twenties and students with a highly educated person often purchased with a small amount of money at 6, 7, 12 P.M and the study named them as the high-satisfaction frequent group purchasing a few goods. In the segmented market 3, professional men in forties with a highly educated person rarely purchased with a lot of amount of money from 8 P.M to 11 P.M and the study named them as low-satisfaction rare group purchasing not a few goods. Marketing strategies and discussion were suggested in detail.
A Study on the Relativity between Fashion Style and Economic Environmental Changes Expressed in Women Magazine
Kim, Sae-Bom ; Lee, Eun-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 601~606
The purpose of this study was to reveal relations between fashions and economic by analyzing the fashion style expressed in women magazine advertisements. The method of this study was used content analysis with 1933 samples in women magazine ('Women Sense', 'Yeosung Dong-A', and 'Jubu Saeng-hwal') which were issued in March, June, September, and December from 1994 to 2002. The data analyses were divided six elements: silhouette, color, pattern, length of skirt & slacks, adjustment, and breadth of collar lapel. The results of this study were as follows; 1. The silhouette of the period before and after economic crisis was expressed in square silhouette. 2. The color of the period before economic crisis was expressed in white and black. The period after economic crisis was expressed in white, warm colors, secondary colors with black. 3. The pattern was expressed in plain pattern. 4. The length of skirt & slacks was expressed in various lengths. 5. The Adjustment was expressed in single button. 6. The breadth of collar lapel of the period before economic crisis was expressed in large breadth. The period after economic crisis was expressed in small breadth.
The Effect of the Service Quality, WOM(aternote), and Ruputation of On-line Shopping-Mall on the Trust and Loyalty
Suh, Hyun-Suk ; Heu, Ju-Hee ; Na, Youn-Kue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 607~617
This research investigated the factors that effect on the trust and loyalty in on-line shopping mall and analyzed a structural relationship of these variables. The variables are service quality, information quality of on-line WOM(afternote), reputation of on-line shopping mall. The Instrument dimensions of service quality are tangibles, responsiveness, assurance, diversity goods and price fairness. The Instrument dimensions of information quality of on-line WOM(afternote) are usefulness, abundance, accuracy and specialty. The Instrument dimensions of reputation of on-line shopping mall are cognizance and comment. The results by LISREL are as follows : There are 7 factors that effects on trust and loyalty. These are tangibles, responsiveness, assurance and price fairness of instrument dimensions of service quality, usefulness, specialty of instrument dimensions of information quality of on-line WOM, cognizance of the Instrument dimensions of reputation of on-line shopping mall. Specially, there are significant point that usefulness and specialty of afternote which can contact easily in on-line shopping mall effect on the trust and loyalty in on-line shopping mall.
The Study on the Perceived Risk and Product Innovativeness Evaluation of Smart Clothing
Kang, Keang-Young ; Jin, Hyun-Jeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 618~624
The purposes of this study were to explore the perceived risk of smart clothing, to classify consumers by risk perception of smart clothing, and to investigate the differences among the segmented groups in regard to the evaluation of newness and innovativeness of smart clothing. In addition, the relationship among perceived risk, evaluation of newness and innovativeness of smart clothing were examined. A questionnaire was administered to 338 male and female subjects aged from 17 to 50. Analysis was performed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and Pearson's correlation analysis. The results showed that the perceived risk of smart clothing was composed of 4 factors: economic risk, social risk, functional risk and physical risk. Consumers were classified into four groups: high risk perception group, low economic risk perception group, low functional risk perception group, and low social risk perception group. ANOVA showed that there were significant differences among four groups regard to the evaluation of newness and innovativeness of smart clothing. High risk perception group most highly evaluated the newness and innovativeness of smart clothing. There were positive correlation among the perceived risks, the evaluation of the newness and innovativeness of smart clothing.
A Study on the Impact of Service Quality on Service Loyalty in the Beauty Service: The Mediating Roles of Relationship Quality and Switching Cost
Lee, You-Mi ; Rhee, Nan-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 625~635
The purpose of this study was to investigate the mediating roles of the relationship quality and the switching cost during the processing of effects of service quality on the service loyalty in the beauty industry. Service quality factors were defined as the interaction quality, the outcome quality and the physical environment quality. The relationship quality were defined as the satisfaction and the trust of customer. Amos was used to analyze the research hypotheses and the proposed model. All research hypotheses were adopted. The empirical results were as follows; Service quality influenced positively on the relationship quality, and then the relationship quality yielded the service loyalty. Also the relationship quality influenced positively on the switching cost and then the switching cost influenced positively on the service loyalty. Each service quality dimension had a significant effect on the satisfaction, the trust and the relative importance of service quality dimensions on the satisfaction, the trust followed the order of the interaction quality, the outcome quality and the physical environment quality.
A Study for Establishing the Proper Ease Amount of Men's Bodice Basic Pattern
Kim, Jin-Sun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 636~643
The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.
The Classification of Men's Foot Shape According to Age
Lee, Ji-Eun ; Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 644~651
The health of foot is connected with individual's health and affects men's activity. In order to develope comfort socks, both foot size and foot shape must be considered. The purpose of this study was to categorize men's foot shape according to age using men's foot scan data (with 2005 Size Korea). Factor analysis, Cluster analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan's test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS Win 12.00 program. The results are as follows. 1. Nine factors constituting the men's foot were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 77.7% of total variance. 2. On the basis of the cluster analysis, four different foot shapes were categorized. Cluster 1 was characterized by large in toe and ankle size. Cluster 2 was characterized by short foot length, low foot height, and small foot breadth/girth. Cluster 3 was characterized by large and high in foot height. Cluster 4 was characterized by short in foot length and large in foot breadth/girth. 3. Distribution of four foot shape clusters from 20 to 70 years in age above were categorized. For the 20 to 29 years in age, cluster 2, while for the over 30 years in age cluster 4 or cluster 3 is the most dominant foot type. A foot breadth in the 50 years over is wider size range than that in the below 49 years. The foot figures of elderly men over 60 years were smaller than those of below 60 years.
Belt Pattern Making for Hip-hugger garment using 3D Body Scan Data
Park, Soon-Jee ; Choi, Sin-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 652~659
This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.
Pattern Making of the Flared Skirt According to the Lower Body Somatotype of the 20's Women
Lee, Youn-Soon ; Ryu, Ji-Hyun ; Kim, Kyung-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 660~667
The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in
each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.
Thermophysiological Responses of the 60's Male and Female in Hot and Cold Environment
Lee, Jung-Sug ; Kim, Hee-Eun ; Song, Min-Kyu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 668~675
The purpose of this study was to collect data of skin temperature and physiological responses which is useful for standardization of insulation measurement in various garments. And we investigated sex and season difference of physiological responses of 60's males and 60's females in hot and cold environment. Healthy ten 60's males and ten 60's females volunteered as subjects. The experiment was conducted three times; One for winter condition(
, 45%), another for summer condition(
, 65%) and the other for nude condition as control(
, 65%). The subjects were sitting for 1 hour with suitable ensemble on each experimental condition in climate chamber. We measured skin temperature, rectal temperature, heart rate, oxygen uptake, sweat rate, blood flow, blood pressure and subjective sensations. We found that skin temperature and most of physiological responses were higher in male subject, summer condition than in female subject, winter condition.
Improvement of ECG Measurement for the Elderly's U-healthcare Clothing Using 3D Tight-fit Pattern
Park, Hye-Jun ; Shin, Seung-Chul ; Shon, Boo-Hyun ; Hong, Kyung-Hi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 676~682
In this study a guideline of the 3D-fit pattern for the ECG(electrocardiogram) measurement of elderly's u-healthcare clothes was proposed. In the screening test of the ECG measurement band, ECG peak band was observable at the band pressure of 0.20 kPa. By employing a 3D body image, tight-fit 3D patterns were made at two different reduction rates of 21%(pattern 1) and 33%(pattern 2), and corresponding pressure of both of the clothes were 0.25 kPa and 0.54 kPa, respectively. Typical waves of ECG were found in both stationary and moving position. In terms of the subjective evaluation of the u-healthcare clothes when worn, it was confirmed that reduction pattern 1(0.25 kPa) conveyed comfortable clothing pressure and pleasantness, which is very close to the result of screening test of ECG band experiment. As results, it is recommended that reduction rate should be adjusted, so that clothing pressure is about 0.2 kPa for the elderly's comfortable and efficient u-healthcare clothes.
Physiological Responses of Cold Protective Clothing with Different clo Value
Lee, Jung-Sug ; Kim, Hee-Eun ; Song, Min-Kyu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 683~689
The purpose of this study was to investigate physiological responses such as rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro climate, sweat rate and subjective sensations using cold protective clothing with five different clo value. The clo value was measured by thermal manikin in windless condition. Healthy five 20's males volunteered as subjects for wearing trial experiment. The climate chamber was controlled at
, 65% RH. The experiment consisted of repeated exercise and recovery periods. We found that the higher clo value has, the higher mean skin temperature, micro climate and sweat rate show. They felt warm and wet with higher insulation clothing. Thermal comfort increased in the last recovery period after exercise. There was significant difference between five cold protective clothing. In correlation analysis of clo value, it showed that correlation coefficient(r) values were more than 0.8. Therefore, in terms of clothing insulation, we found that correlation between thermal manikin experiment and wearing trial experiment was high. Clothing insulation could be variable according to many factors such as body movement, covering area, clothing gap, layering and design. Considering the body movement, we thought that insulation measurement need to carry out both thermal manikin experiment and wearing trial experiment.
An Expressive Characteristics of Conversational Pattern Illustration in Modern Fashion - Focused on Human Body -
Choi, Jung-Hwa ; Choi, Yoo-Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 690~701
Fashion illustration as conversational pattern which is made up of human and daily story creates brand image and new cultural value in textile design. The purpose of this study is to analyze an expressive characteristics focused on human body in conversational pattern illustration. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion web site. The results were as follows: The category of body expression was classified as the head, the bust, the whole body, and the others. Most of all, the head is higher frequency than any other part. The category of body type was classified as iconic reappearance and surreal fantasy. The former expressed gender images of woman and man in reality and showed high frequency of 90.41%. Above all, two types were to show the organic correlation between fashion illustration body and brand concept. The construction method of motif was classified as singleness of body, repetition of body, singleness of body and non-body mixed, and repetition of body and non-body mixed. The repetition of body showed low frequency and it was composed of regular repetition construction and irregular construction. The singleness of body and non-body mixed, showed the highest frequency and it was definitely to communicate fashion concept. In these days, conversational pattern illustration in modern fashion pattern strengthens brand identity and informs the fashion image as creative commercial art. And also, it satisfies cultural sensibility of consumer and categorizes public phenomenons in our times.
A Study on Development of Casual Hanbok Design made of Hanji Yarn Textiles for the New Silver Generation Woman
Han, Nam-Ki ; Park, Eun-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 702~712
The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.
A Study of Methodology Developing Reconstructed body using Styrofoam Boards
Choi, Young-Lim ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 713~720
The purpose of this study was to propose the method reproducing three dimensional figure data to a reconstructed body by the styrofoam board. To make the reconstructed body, the 3D figure data were rotated to make symmetry and the surfaces were edited. The horizontal curves were gathered equally-spaced based on the waist horizontal plane. we proposed the process to cut the styrofoam board according to the horizontal curves, to assemble them to organize the shape of the body figure and to coat the surface with the knitted. The 3-dimensional figure data of straight type, swayback type, lean-back type and bend-forward type were selected and the reconstructed bodies were made as above. And the compatibility was verified by the measurement comparison and deviations between 3-dimensional figure data and reconstructed body.
The Fashion Formative Characteristics and Meanings in the Tech Fatale Types of the Post Digital Generation - Focusing on the Female Models of the Mobile Advertisements -
Kim, Ha-Lim ; Kwon, Gi-Young ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 721~730
The purpose of this study is to analyze the tech fatale fashion image in female models of mobile advertisements and to find the fashion characteristics. The tech fatale emerging as new culture code is a compound word of the femme fatale and technology. It is characteristics of the femme fatale, the post digital culture and the female leadership. The findings of the study were as follows : The tech fatale types were the independence, the transformation and the tradition. The independence was a self expression, appealed to visual image, was showed the coating fabric, denim, space look and street fashion and reflected the creativeness and digital generation. The transformation appealed to sexuality and was showed luster fabric, exposure, body-conscious, glam look. The voluptuous beauty represented the pride of the post digital generation. The tradition appealed to emotion and was showed pale color, simple line, soft texture fabric and a feminine Image. The meanings of tech fatale were the imagination, the public, the duality, the game, the purity and the recurrence. The formative characteristics reflect the mind of post digital generation who is against authority and pursues the human being worth such as the identity establishment and the pure emotion.
The Trend and Meaning of Decoration in Fashion Magazines - Focused on Blouse, Jacket and One-piece -
Jung, Ji-Nyun ; Kwon, Gi-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 731~738
The purpose of this study is to analyze the trend and meanings of the decoration which has appeared on fashion magazines from 1995 through 2005. The method of this study is to analyze 1627 decorations represented in fashion magazine focused on blouse, jacket and one-piece. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, the decoration reflects a life-style that modern people persue comfort, casual wear. Second, the decoration redefines the feminine identity by fusing different factors of fashion style. Third, the decoration reflects the hybrid tendencies through reconstruction by merging different culture or things.
Luxury Characteristics in Mass Fashion through the Historical Review of Fashion System
Ko, Hyun-Zin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 739~747
There have been increasing consumption of luxury fashion and recent marketing researches on luxury syndrome, trading up, etc. in mass fashion today. Historically the consumption of luxury had been concentrated on only upper class in the past. But since 20th century, the mass consumers of modern consumptive society show their interests in luxuries which had been preoccupation of few elite class. Accordingly, it can be thought that the historical review on the changes in the meaning of luxury should be necessary for a better understanding of modern luxury consumption in sociocultural context. The purpose of this study is to grasp the sociocultural meaning of luxury in modern fashion with a holistic viewpoint by examining the changes of luxury consumption in mass fashion. It will be helpful as a conceptual approach of modern luxury consumption. For this, the documentary study has been executed. It focused on since 20th century, which can be the root of mass productive and consumptive society in fashion history. The results are as follows. The luxury in court elite system before 20th century had been concentrated on few elite class exclusively but gradually began to be represented as inferior cheaper version by mass production according to their increasing interests since industrial revolution. The luxuries in elite designer system in the first half of 20th century were represented as illegal design piracy and legal genuine reproduction in spite of problems brought about between originality and copy. The concept of mass as consumer was virtually alienated in both systems. But in fashion system since the second half of 20th century, various types of consumer luxuries has appeared on account of the trading up phenomenon in drastic growth of mass culture.
Bicomponent Finishing of Cotton Fabrics(II) - Chitosan and Charcoal -
Bae, Ki-Hyun ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 748~755
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabric using charcoal as colorants. Particle size of charcoal, dyeability(K/S), SEM morphology of dyed fabrics and color fastness were also investigated. In this study, cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was 1.44
. According to various conditions, the dyeing effects of 1% chitosan treatment on the dyeing of cotton fabrics using charcoal were the highest with 10%(owb) of charcoal at
for 120minutes and non-treatment of cotton fabrics were the highest with 15%(owb) of charcoal at
for 150minutes. Overall, K/S value of 1% chitosan treatment of cotton fabrics on the natural dyeing using charcoal was higher than non-treatment of cotton fabrics. It was observed the surfaces of cotton fabrics treated with chitosan were adsorbed with charcoal powders of particle size more than a non-treated chitosan fabric by SEM. The cotton fabrics were dyed with blackish gray color by charcoal gradually according to treating chitosan. The K/S value, that is indicative of dye affinity, became higher as the increase of treated chitosan concentration. The color fastness of charcoal, washing and light fastness was excellent as 4-5 grade.
Functional and Physical Properties of Weft Knit with Silver Slit Yarn
Jeong, Sam-Ho ; Park, Jong-Sik ; Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 756~761
In this paper, silver slit yarns combined with cotton yarns were used to produce weft knits. The purpose of this study was to investigate the physical properties as well as the functional properties of weft knit with silver slit yarns. The six different weft knit fabrics were made from silver slit yarns varying knit structure and fabric density. One cotton weft knit was also knitted to compare the properties. Weft knits made from silver slit yarns were characterized by excellent antibacterial properties, electric magnetic shielding properties, UV-cut properties, anti-static properties, and air permeability. Although there were significant differences in the physical properties of different knit structure and the fabric density, weft knits with silver slit yarns were seen to have better end use properties and ideal for apparel than the cotton weft knits.
The Characteristics of Flower Patterned Fabrics used for the Shrouds in Chosun Dynasty
Park, Mun-Young ; Kim, Ho-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 762~770
The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.
A Study on the Well-being Technique Natural Dyeing with Natural Resources (1) - Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabric using Perilla frutescens var. acuta -
Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 771~778
The natural dyeing of cotton fabric with Perilla frutescens var. acuta extract was investigated. The proper extraction temperature and time were
and 120 minutes. The proper temperature, time and colorant powder concentration for the dyeing of cotton fabric with Perilla frutescens var. acuta powder were
, 60 minutes and 15%(o.w.b.), respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of simultaneous-mordanted methods were higher than those of pre-and post-mordanted methods. And the Cu-and Fe mordant showed higher K/S values than those of other mordants. Light colorfasness of mordanted cotton fabric was poor, but the other colorfasnesses were shown to be good. The cotton fabric mordanted with Cu mordant was showed effective bacterial reduction.
Dyeing Properties of Morus alba L. Fruit Powder on the Silk Fabric
Bai, Sang-Kyoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 779~783
The main colorant of Morus alba L. fruit is anthocyanin which is a kind of flavonoid group. In this article, the dyeing properties of colorant extracted from Morus alba L. fruit were investigated on some silk fabrics. The results were as follows: The maximum absorbance of Morus alba L. fruit showed at 284 nm, and 516 nm by UV-VIS spectrophotometer. The dye adsorption increased according as dye concentration. The optimal dyeing temperature was
and the dye equilibrium was reached 40 minutes after dyeing. The highest K/S value of the colorant obtained at bath ratio 40:1. The effect of pH of dye solution showed higher K/S value at acidic than alkaline condition. Almost Mordants except pre-Fe and Sn did not significantly increased dye adsorption. The pre mordanted silk fabrics showed RP, P, and post mordanted ones showed PB, GY. The color fastnesses to light, washing, and perspiration were modified at pre-Sn mordanted samples.
A study of Hair Art in Minimalism
Park, Eun-Jung ; Choi, Eun-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 10, issue 5, 2008, Pages 784~795
This study is a thesis about the hair art reflected minimalism which is expanded to various art fields using minimum formative measures minimalism is a kind of modern art trend. It is analyzed theoretically that the works of this researcher approaching minimalism and consideration of minimalism about hair, flexible clothes and artistic costume. It is defined that the "hair art" is "aesthetic hair", and I include my three works approaching minimalism that are researched, extended, made. I spread the works which have minimalism characteristic by design intent, concept, title, color, ingredient, size and detail, consider the hair art works theoretically and present the basis and method of scholar study minimalism art trend. I think that succeeding studies related to the hair art should be continued. I expect that various work activities of hair art artists and scientific breakthrough via theoretical thesis about the work of themselves.