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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
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Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2009
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2009
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2009
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2009
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2009
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2009
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Production of Stage Costume of Creative Musical 'This is my destiny…'
Im, Jeong-Mi ; Lee, Jong-Hoon ; Beom, Seo-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 193~199
Now, the proportion of musical was strength in the stage art part to the past considerably as called musical boom. After 1990's, as if it was rise as rise of musical exclusive theater, it was development seriously in Korean musical. But presently, the examined musical product state as the ratio of import musical and creative musical is about 6 to 4 or 7 to 3, it was a inferiority of creative musical in a flood of import musical. So, this study researched for example Kim Kyun Hyoung' writing and Yu Min Suck' production, creative musical 'This is my destiny...' - played by Dept. of multimedia and film, Honam University in september 2007 - this researcher should give much theoretical and substantial assistance to stage costume producer by studying about producing costume of a aria story, a mental state. As I have studied sofar, in designing a stage costume for musical, the overall comprehension of the musical actor's bodies have to be considered. Though performing the manufacture of the really performance work. It is a field that needs various professional knowledge, and only when a musical is produced based on such theories, it will be possible to deliver the theme of the me of the play more effectively, becomes help in the efficiently theatrical costume manufacture realistically and express the various symbolical meanings.
A Study on the Images of Fashion Advertisements using Mirrors
Choi, Yoo-Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 200~209
Mirrors often appear in fashion advertisements. This study aimed to analyze meanings of the images represented in fashion advertisements using mirrors. This study analyzed the meanings of mirror image in Western art history, and also studied meanings of female representations in the paintings. Based on previous studies, this study classified mirrors' expressions in three types and analyzed their meanings. To analyze the meanings of the three types, this study researched the symbolic meanings of the mirrors in visual arts chronologically, first. And then, this study interpreted that in the context of consumption cultures and consuming ideologies in view of feminism, consumption ideology, desire theory, and fetishism. The results of this study were as follows; 1. Narcistic body expressions associated with strong and independent women, while associated submissive being overwhelmed by consumption cultures. 2. The method of revealing the female body throughout mirrors was meant to attract the attention of consumer. 3. Multiplied body images meaning was like a commodity in fashion advertisements.
A Study on Establishing Relationship between Fashion Design Process and Storytelling
Sung, You-Jung ; Kwon, Gi-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 210~218
The Purpose of this study is to demonstrate Storytelling as an effective device for Fashion Design by establishing relationship between Fashion Design Process and Storytelling. Through researching a social background and a concept of storytelling, found that story used interactively is a powerful tool for attention, understanding and change in both individuals and communities. Analysed the elements and the structure of storytelling and Fashion Design Process, by researching preceding researches. Therefore, we proposed a new four elements -text factor, visual factor, audio factor and virtual factor- and four steps (1)exploring stories, (2)planning a story, (3)building the story, (4)do storytelling- of storytelling and four steps-(1)gathering and analysing informations, (2)building a concept, (3)planning and developing a design, (4)do evaluation and make decision- of fashion design process. Through comparative analysis, we found a closeness between two structures, a use of common factors and also found characteristics to be considered in each stage. In the first stage, we found text, visual and audio factor as common factors. In the second stage, we suggested text and visual factor as common factors and also suggested clarity, realism and probability as characteristics. In the third stage, we found text, visual and virtual factor and also found dynamism, immersion and continuity. In the last stage, we suggested text, visual, virtual and audio factor and also suggested presence and interactivity as characteristics.
Post-modern Characteristics Expressed on Characters' Make-up Coordination of Fantasy Movies - Focused on the works of Tim Burton -
Chang, Mee-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 219~230
The purpose of this paper is to study characters' make-up coordination that changes the narrative of the fantasy movies to a visual fantasy, especially it focuses on the post-modern features from the works of Tim Burton, a post-modernist. The contents of the study are, firstly, studying post-modernism that influenced the works of Tim Burton, secondly, researching
(2005) and their main characters' make-up design. Thirdly, analyzing the otherness and plural-code that are the post-modern characteristics expressed on characters' make-up coordination of fantasy movies. The otherness means the division of the middle and the surroundings and the rise of the outsiders. Fantasy characters that scares off human such as ghosts, aliens, apes, kidults, mutations, man-made men are in the middle. The plural-code takes the symbolic and pluralistic dimension in to the movie, mixes the sign system, and which natural and supernatural system cross over. In the movies, Beetle Juice who was both ghost and devil expresses life and death, Bat man, Cat woman, Penguin man expresses human and animal, and Edward means human and inhuman. Willy Wonka's makeup makes him look younger, but his grown-up-like clothes show doubleness. For that matter, make-up coordination is the mirror of reflection of period and human being's inner life.
Transition of Embroidery in Europe
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 231~241
Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.
The Development of Textile Designs and the Manufacture of Fashion Products by Using the Four Gracious Plants Expressed on Blue and White Porcelain in the Joseon Dynasty
Jung, Jin-Soun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 242~251
Traditional patterns of Korea vary greatly and have excellent value in terms of artistic merit. Nevertheless because there are not enough the research and development of them, traditional patterns of Korea are not yet recognized in internationally aesthetic value. Therefore the development of designs modernizing traditional patterns of Korea is urgently needed. In this study, I chose Four gracious plants as the subject materials of textile design development. Before everything I examined data of Four gracious plants expressed on Blue and white porcelain. And I chose data that are suitable to express modern image among them. I set my face to develop the textile design of Korean images by adding modern scenes with them. Also, I were trying to make fashion products like muffler and tie by using techniques such as burn out, crayon dying and spray dyeing.
The Influence of Female University Students' Cosmetic Purchase Motivation on Cosmetic Attribute Evaluation and Brand Repurchase Intention
Park, Hyun-Hee ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 252~261
The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of female university students' cosmetic purchase motivation on cosmetic attribute evaluation and brand repurchase intention. Questionnaires data of 202 female university students who had purchase experience of cosmetic product in recent 6 months through off-line were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, situational purchase motivation had a positive impact on extrinsic and economic attributes. Second, intrinsic purchase motivation had a positive impact on extrinsic, utilitarian, aesthetic, and economic attributes. Third, hedonic purchase motivation had a positive impact on extrinsic attribute. Fourth, aesthetic attribute had a positive influence on brand repurchase intention and extrinsic attribute had a negative effect on brand repurchase intention. Therefore, when cosmetic companies dealing with female university students' cosmetic product establish marketing strategies, they need to pay attention to aesthetic attribute evaluation and intrinsic purchase motivation to highten their brand loyalty.
Effects of Consumer Knowledge and Expectation of Functional Materials for Apparel on University Students' Behavioral Intention
Choi, La-Yun ; Jeon, Eun-Kyung ; Yoo, Hwa-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 262~270
The objectives of this study were to investigate university students' knowledge and expectation of functional materials for apparel and to examine how the knowledge and expectations affect their behavioral intention. For this purpose, a questionnaire survey was conducted. 500 questionnaires were distributed to the students and 409 questionnaires were used for data analysis. The data were analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, reliability analysis, regression analysis and ANOVA, using SPSS 12.0 package. As the results, it showed that the knowledge related to functional materials for apparel was medium level. Brand knowledge among the objective knowledge of functional materials for apparel revealed to have a lower level than the knowledge of clothing materials, product, use and wash & care. The level of self-evaluation knowledge among subjective knowledge appeared to be lower than the one of experience related knowledge. As the correlation coefficient of objective knowledge and subjective knowledge was low, it was thought that both of them must be considered in studying on consumer knowledge. It showed that the university students' expectation of functional materials for apparel was composed of physiological and physical aspects, social and psychological aspects, and practical and aesthetic aspects. The expectation was revealed to be generally high. However, the level of expectation to the practical and aesthetic aspects was lower than those of other aspects. University students' knowledge and expectation were found to have influence on their behavioral intention. In other words, it showed that the higher university students' knowledge level and expectation level were, the bigger behavioral intention was.
A Structural Study on Social Self-Efficacy, Appearance Concern, Body Cathexis, Appearance Management Behavior
Lee, Hyun-Ok ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 271~277
The purpose of this study was to examine the relationships among influence of Social Self-Efficacy, Appearance Concern, Body Cathexis, Appearance Management Behavior. The subjects of this study were 709 women aged for 20 to 50 living in Daegu. The questionnaires were conveniently sampled from December 20 to 31, 2007. The SPSS 14.0 package was use for data analysis which included Frequency analysis, Factor analysis, Cronbach's a and Analysis Structural Equation Modeling by utilizing of Amos 5.0. The results of this study were as follows; First, the social self-efficacy showed a positive influence on both appearance concern and the body cathexis. And the social self-efficacy had a negative influence on appearance management behavior. Second, appearance concern showed a positive influence on appearance management behavior, but there was not a significant relationship between appearance concern and body cathexis. Third body cathexis showed a positive influence on appearance management behavior.
The Comparison Research on the Wearing Practice and Fitness Evaluation of Children's Clothing for Obese and Average body shape of Late Elementary Schoolgirls
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 278~285
As children's apparel industry expands, there are many researches on purchasing and wearing children's clothing and optimal sizes, but researches on purchasing and wearing children's clothing and the appropriateness of sizes comparing average body shape and obese children are still inadequate. Therefore, in this research Late Elementary Schoolgirls ranging in age from 12 to 13 are categorized into the average or the obese body type, and by comparing and analyzing purchasing and wearing children's clothing and the appropriateness of its sizes between these groups, the problems in the size system of children's apparel are realized and the basic information about designing children's clothing for average body shape and non-average body shape(out-size)children are presented. The survey questions were composed of topics about general personal information, the purchasing practice and wearing practice, the appropriateness of its size when wearing children's clothing and the practice of mending apparel according to the satisfaction level of children's clothing sizes. Because subjects are often too big to wear children's clothing, and in the case of obese children the deviation of a body type is amplified, therefore in buying and wearing children's clothing, they demonstrate different forms of purchasing and wearing characteristics than adults. Considering the practice of increasing obesity in children due to westernized eating habits and decreased physical activities, along with developing programs for improving obesity, the development of an optimal size system in response to various body types will become an important challenge.
Pattern Analysis and Determination of Body Dimension for Flight Suit Design
Jeon, Eun-Jin ; Park, Ji-Eun ; Jeong, Jeong-Rim ; Park, Sei-Kwon ; Park, Jang-Un ; You, Hee-Cheon ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 286~292
The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.
A study on the development of global standardized size for souvenir T-shirts
Lee, Hyun-Hwa ; Nam, Yun-Ja ; Choi, Young-Lim ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 293~300
Customers purchasing souvenir T-shirts in famous tourist sites in Korea are mainly foreigners. Nevertheless, these T-shirts are manufactures according to Koreans' body shapes or manufactures' own size system. Moreover, sizes are labelled only by domestic norms. The purpose of this study is to suggest global standardized size for T-shirts, which will provide more precise size information for customers. For this, sizing standards including KS, ASTM, JIS, and EN were surveyed and were compared. And souvenir T-shirts were collected in the tourist resort and the sizing systems and labels were analysed from them. Finally, we proposed a sizing system and labelling as an international standard for souvenir T-shirts.
An Evaluation of wearing characteristic for improving flight suit design
Jeon, Eun-Jin ; Park, Sei-Kwon ; You, Hee-Cheon ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 301~307
The purpose of this study is to investigate the problem and complaint of current flight suit derived with the questionnaires. The survey was carried out to the 137 aviators in Army Aviation School from April to May, 2007. The questionnaires were composed of personal characteristics, usage characteristics, wearing characteristics and free comments. Regard to the questionnaires of usage characteristics, they wore the flight suit over 6 hours a day and over 5 days a week. For wearing convenience item in usage characteristics it was revealed that fitness, ease and the location of pocket were not proper, Also, it showed that the material characteristics(e.g. insulation, absorption, and sensation) for flight suit was not proper. Regard to the questionnaire of wearing characteristics, the most inconvenient part is crotch as the answer on the question of "unfitting part in size" and "inconvenient part when wearing". Free comments for the improvement requests are various size, material, stitch strengthening, pattern modifying, and accessories.
Development of Men's suit Easy-Order Prototype using Cyber Fitting 3D Avatar
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 308~314
In creating an avatar, consumers can find out for themselves their own sizes to be entered. Also, putting in a face creation main-page menu option enables clients to make up their faces and match them to their bodies. Through this process when purchasing clothes through the internet consumers can enter their own body sizes and create avatars that are identical to their body shape. The uniqueness of developed prototype is that it creates an avatar similar to one's body shape according to body size inputs and demonstrates visually to customers the on-line comfort test which was only available off-line traditionally. The avatar follows the movement of mouse from left to right which enables 3 dimensional visualization. Through maximizing the visual effect this research focuses on enabling consumers to feel subjective parts as if they are off-line. This study seeks to provide a type of prototype of an online shopping mall that meets the demand of the consumers using the 3D avatar.
Development and Analysis of Smart Jacket for the Elderly -Focused on American Women-
Paek, Kyung-Ja ; Ashdown, Susan P. ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 315~325
The Relation between Narcissistic and Cosmetics Shopping Orientation of Consumers
Hwang, Yeon-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 326~336
The primary purpose of this study was to investigate the relation between narcissistic and cosmetics shopping orientation of female consumers. The data were collected in Busan, Daegu and Ulsan, and 301 data were used for analysis. The aforementioned were analyzed utilizing frequency, factor and multiple regression analysis using SPSS Win 12.0. The results showed as follows. First, the factors related to narcissistic orientation were entitlement, leadership/superiority, self-reliance, self-intoxication, achievable desire and self-absorption. Second, the factors related to cosmetics shopping orientation were impulsive, economic, self-confidence, exploratory, brand/store loyal, shopping convenience, traffic convenience, prudence, pleasure, famous brand inclination and independent. Third, narcissistic orientation and cosmetics shopping orientation were significantly differences impulsive, economic, self-confidence, exploratory, shopping convenience, pleasure and famous brand inclination orientation.
Physiochemical Properties and Dyeability of Safflower Colorants Extracted by Ultrasonic Treatment
Kim, Yong-Sook ; Choi, Jong-Myoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 337~343
This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.
Functional Dyeing and Finishing Using Catechins Extracted from Green Tea -Dyeing Optimization and Fastness-
Son, Song-I ; Jang, Kyung-Jin ; Kim, Tae-Kyeong ; Jeong, Jong-Suc ; Choi, Young-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 344~349
Optimum dyeing conditions of green tea extracts were investigated toward nylon, cotton, rayon, and tencel fabrics. Affinity of green tea extracts was exhibited much higher onto nylon fabric than the other cellulosics. As for nylon, the adsorption was increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and optimum dyeing pH was around 4~6. Buildup property of green tea extract was good showing a linear relationship between concentration of the extracts and color strength of dyed fabrics within experimental range. Color fastnesses were good to excellent in general except to light.
Basic Research about Natural Dyeing Experience Program Conditions and Participants' Characteristics
Kim, Jie-Yurn ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 350~358
This research has a purpose to examine the actual conditions of natural dyeing program as a personal learning experience, participants' characteristics and common people's interest on natural dyeing nowadays. To examine the actual conditions of natural dyeing center and programs, many web sites and newspapers dealing with natural dyeing were used as main resources. As common people's interest on natural dyeing increased, there were a lot of natural dyeing centers in around country. To examine the interest on natural dyeing and the participants' characteristics of natural dyeing program, the data was obtained from a convenient survey of 326 respondents over 15 years old during 15th, May~30th, July in 2006. Almost 40% of respondents were interested in natural dyeing, but only 19% of respondents had ever participated in natural dyeing experience program. The participants' characteristics such as motivation, participating time, dyeing sources and materials, etc. were examined. Almost 65% of respondents were satisfied with natural dyeing experience. As long as people have interest on natural dyeing, Industrialization of natural dyeing will be advanced.
Behavior of Water Vapor Permeability on Layered System
Oh, Ae-Gyeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 2, 2009, Pages 359~362
This study investigates the behavior of water vapor permeability of a layered system to find out a comfortable combination of a layered system for outdoor activities and examines the water vapor permeability of various types of outdoor clothing fabrics. The layered system includes the base layer such as sportswool and polyester/cotton fabrics, the middle layer such as single and double sided fleece fabrics, and the shell layer such as polyurethane-coated, PTFE-laminated and microfiber fabrics in this experiment. Results show that the layered system was applied, it was working together as a whole having some influence on each other layer, though every layer offered varying degree of water vapor permeability. Water vapor permeability of layered system exactly followed the same trend as the shell layer, which is all vapor permeable water repellent fabrics as a single layer. The rate of water vapor transfer through a layered system is mainly related to the type of vapor permeable water repellent fabrics used for the shell layer.