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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 11, Issue 6 - Dec 2009
Volume 11, Issue 5 - Oct 2009
Volume 11, Issue 4 - Aug 2009
Volume 11, Issue 3 - Jun 2009
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Apr 2009
Volume 11, Issue 1 - Feb 2009
Selecting the target year
The Design of a Fashion Storytelling Method for Fashion Show
Sung, You-Jung ; Kwon, Gi-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 857~866
The objective of this study was to design a fashion storytelling method, which is a strategic instrument for constructing a fashion show with artistry and popularity, based on the principle and structure of storytelling. In order to understand the concept and principle of storytelling composed of story and telling and to introduce storytelling into fashion shows, we associated fashion design with the substance of a story, a show with the form of telling, and a fashion show with storytelling. Based on these associations, we analyzed the relationship between fashion show and storytelling and developed basic elements and structure necessary to design a fashion storytelling method. Through this study, we designed a fashion storytelling method with five steps, which are story planning, story development, fashion show structure design, fashion show production, and fashion show execution. These steps were again classified into contents setting step, structure design step, and expression step. The contents setting step included story planning and development for creating stories, and the structure design step means the design of fashion show structure that adds telling to the stories. Lastly, the expression step included fashion show production and execution that forms a storytelling by combining the stories and the telling.
The Expression of Fantastic Body in Fashion Illustration
Choi, Jung-Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 867~877
These days, the fantastic in opposition to classic beauty becomes a genre of creative body expression. The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of body types and meanings in recent fantastic fashion illustration. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In literatures, pictures and movies, the category of the fantastic body's expressive types were classified as dominant mutant based on SF, multi body or fragment body by disruption, heterogeneous compound based on myth, personified humanoid and non substance in supernatural boundary. The dominant mutant based on SF was expressed image morphing, composition of machine image with body and modern metamorphosis of classic SF body. It means propensity to post-feminism and reservation of meaning analysis based on human unconsciousness. The multi body or fragment body by disruption in fashion illustration was expressed distorted composition of same body pictures, replacement of different bodies, deconstruction and partial omission of body and composition of meaning or non meaning images. It means permanence of self and basic narcissism. The heterogeneous compound based on myth was expressed general composition or optical illusion of various and aggressive animal motive. It means reinterpretation of original myth, metaphor of basic femme fatale, pursuit of permanence and sign of primitive mind in unconsciousness. The personified humanoid was expressed real human body description of mannequin or ball joint doll and anthropomorphism of robot image. It means representative satisfaction and nostalgia of childhood. The non substance in supernatural boundary was expressed grotesque description of ghost, zombie, vampire, angel, fairy, using of symbolic red, black color and non body. It means human's basic desire about immortality and taboo. Through the result of these study, the expression of fantastic body in fashion illustration will expend expressive method and we will understand human and cultural codes of today.
A Study on Clothing Shopping Orientation and Brand Loyalty of University Students
Sung, Hee-Won ; Kim, Eun-Kyeung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 878~886
The purpose of this study was to identify clothing shopping orientation of university students and brand loyalty in Jinju, Korea. In addition, the effect of consumer's shopping orientation and brand equity factors on brand loyalty were analyzed. A self-administrated questionnaire was developed based on previous studies. A total of 257 useful data were analyzed by SPSS 13.0 program. About 64.6% were female with the mean age of 22.2 years old. The results of this study were as follows. First, clothing shopping orientation was classified into 6 factors: hedonic, store patronage, planned, brand-pursued, economic, and convenience shopping orientation. Second, brand equity was identified into two factors, brand image and brand-consumer relationship. Third, store patronage and hedonic orientation were significant predictors of brand loyalty(
=.275). Brand image and brand-consumer relationship showed significant effects on brand loyalty(
=.541). Findings of this study were expected to contribute to understand young consumers in a typical trading area and to develop marketing strategy for casual brands to increase and maintain brand loyalty.
A Study on the Clothing Purchasing Behavior and the Recognition of Care Label of the Chinese Students
Kim, Soon-Boon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 887~895
The purposes of this study were to provide informations to apparel companies and to contribute the education of clothing consumers through finding out the present status of clothes purchasing behaviors and the degree of the recognition and the application of care labels of the Chinese students in Daegu area. The data were collected from 166 Chinese students through the questionnaire and analyzed by the frequence, t-test, ANOVA, and Scheffe-test using SPSS 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. The main purchasing place was road shops of well-known brands, and the most decisive factor of purchasing was the display style of goods. They purchased 'any time when necessary' and impulsively. They payed mostly by cash and the most affecting factor of purchasing decision was the degree of fitting. 2. The recognition of the necessity of care label was found in 36.7% of respondent and their most rationale was 'for the management of clothes'. The recognition of care labels showed the highest in reliability and the lowest in application. There were significant differences in satisfaction of care label between male and female and in application according to purchasing places. In conclusion, the recognition of the necessity of care labels showed a little high level but relatively low in the understanding and the application.
A Survey on Pants Grading of the Korean Apparel Industry
Lee, Mi-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 896~903
The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the present condition of pants grading and the methods for the specific dimensional increments, a questionnaire has been conducted. For the questionnaire, 16 casual wear brands, which were on higher ranking of sales in Korea, were selected. The results are summarized as follows. Based on the pants grading data resulting from the research conducted on the (16) domestic clothing brands, the grading method could be classified into three different types. According to the criteria; i.e., the front and back divided by crease of pants and the deviation ratio of the grading increments of the waist and the hip girth, the grading types were (1) G1: front 5:5, back 5:5, (2) G2: front 4:6, back 4:6, and (3) G3: front 4:6, back 3:7.
A Development of Size System for the Abdomen-obese Adult Males According to the Lower-body Obesity-type Analysis
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 904~910
The aim of this study is to help out-size consumers purchase the ready-made clothes and improve clothing fitness by classifying the lower bodies of abdomen-obese adult males and by setting up some size system according to each size interval of obesity types. The including criteria for subjects in this study was over 25 kg/
of the BMI, over 90 cm of waist, and over 0.85 of WHR, and a total of 538 adult males satisfying them were enrolled. Results are as follows; 1st, the higher the age bracket was, the more increase in each age bracket's lower-degree obesity rate there was along with the more decrease in moderate-degree, while the higher the age bracket was, the more increasing tendency toward each age bracket's abdominal obesity there was. 2nd, 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, into abdominal obesity, high-degree-type, trapezoid-type and cylinder-type. And 3rd, as a consequence of size system establishment according to lower-body types, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names at sections of respective types. The research findings above suggests that it is necessary to figure out the obesity types according to waist and hip sizes representing basic sizes and to design the patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes when lower-half body clothes are designed among obesity groups. And it may be used as a basic data to decide the desirable output of production according to respective body types.
The Effects of the Jean Patterns on Muscle Activity of the Lower Limbs during Walking
Song, Young-Eun ; Chu, Mi-Seon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 911~917
The purpose of this study was to investigate muscle activity of the lower limbs when walking in jeans in order to obtain basic information for development of new jeans patterns with excellent movement adaptability. Using three types of jeans (basic, medium, and slim) with different ease on hip, knee circumference, and crotch length, and two different types of shoes, Electromyogram (EMG) of the lower limbs muscle was measured for four healthy subjects walking on treadmills and stairs. EMG of vastus lateralis, semitendinous, tibialis anterior and medial head of gastrocnemius muscles was measured. The muscle activity was assessed in RMS (Root Mean Square) value of the EMG. On the treadmill in sneakers, only the vastus lateralis muscle showed a significant difference in RMS value depending on patterns. Basic and medium jeans allowed higher muscle activity than trunks of slim jeans did. On the treadmill in high heels and slim jeans, the RMS values of all muscles were significantly smaller than in basic jeans, whereas no significant differences were shown while in trunks or medium jeans. On the stairs either in sneakers or in high heels, no significant differences were shown between all muscle activities for all types of jeans. On the treadmill, greater fatigue was induced in all muscles from walking in high heels than in sneakers for all jeans patterns. When walking on the stairs wearing either type of shoes, however, the effect of jeans pattern on muscle activities was different from muscle to muscle.
A Study on the Optimal Sizing System for Obese Children - Focusing on 4~6 Grade Elementary School Boys-
Choi, Kueng-Mi ; Park, Sun-Mi ; Kim, Woong ; Ryu, Young-Sil ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 918~924
As the population of overweight and obese children is rising rapidly around the world, there are many researches on purchasing and wearing children's clothing and optimal sizes, but researches on obese children are still inadequate. This study was carried out on 192 obese children over 75% in BMI. The purpose of the study was to set up the optimal interval of sizing system using the loss function which would be a guide for obese children for selecting ready to wear of suitable size. Introducing a loss function, which reflects how much the purchasing desire changes according to the difference, we formulate the problem and suggest a procedure to determine the optimal standard sizes minimizing the loss. These results were as follows ; In size chart of top's, 4 sizes had been determined by a loss function, had covered more than 91.1% of all subjects. In size chart of bottom's, 5 sizes had been determined by a loss function, had covered more than 87.0% of all subjects.
Analysis Marketing of Products in Baseball Cap
Kim, Na-Young ; Jang, Jeong-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 925~933
This research was carried out by analyzing a form and composition in baseball cap targeting 97 marketing products, and we have typified it by frequency analysis. We have carried out comparing and wearing test between comparative pattern and the most preferred three products of sports brand, fashion brand A, and fashion brand B (flex fit). And also, in order to provide basic indices for developing new pattern, we have carried out analysis of variance. 1. As a result of analyzing a form in baseball cap, the most general pattern type for crown is central cutting with six pieces. In a cap, a basic type with no decoration was the most general. In the size adjustment and decoration, belt type and embroidery type (front or side embroidery of the crown) was the most common, respectively. 2. As a result of comparing and analyzing six-piece typed crown pattern, the comparative pattern was the same and symmetric in size and form of three patterns in front, side, and back. However, the patterns of marketing products of three brands were different in size and form of three patterns in front, side, and back. The patterns of sports brand were the largest in crown height and width, thus it was good at providing activity and motion. The patterns of fashion brand A were the shortest in the crown length and well-curved in front pattern, so it was well-matched with head shape. The patterns of fashion brand B were well-described back side of head since its convex and long patterns in the back head. 3. As a result of wearing test by five-point Likert scale among brand, pattern of fashion brand B outperformed the others since it was well-matched with head shape. In the cap, pattern of fashion brand A is the most preferred which was 7.5 cm of length and 18cm of width.
A Study about Inter-Textuality in Modern Hair Style - Focused on Collections -
Kim, Sung-Ah ; Yoo, Tae-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 934~941
The purpose of this study is to examine by which correlation the pluralistic phenomenon in text is functioned in comparison with hair style and fashion in collection. As a result, the pluralistic image in text, which was shown in modern fashion, was indicated to be pluralistic phenomenon by gender, T.P.O, coordination, and material. The pluralistic image in text for hair style can be known to have been indicated to be the pluralistic phenomenon in text for gender and to be the pluralistic phenomenon in text according to material and cultural category. As for a method of this study, it did put limitation on the part that is shown in the fashion collection from 2001 to 2007, analyzed hair-style features centering on photos, which were extracted from style.com, the online site of specializing in fashion, and carried out a literature research side by side with the theoretical background on intertextuality. The analysis in work according to the pluralistic phenomenon in text made it possible for looking at with a new sight differently from the recognition in the past, and opened the potentiality for being able to understand lots of strange representations, which have been impossible so far. The process of imitating and reconstructing each text according to compositional principle led to possibly knowing the necessity of an artist's ability that can implement the originative world.
Technology Trends Related with the Natural Dyeing by Patent Analysis
Kim, Ho-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 942~946
The trends of patents related to natural dyeing were examined in order to guide the development of natural dyeing into a high value-added technology. Total 181 patents data provided from KISTI were analyzed and following results were drawn. Korea had the overwhelming number of patents related to natural dyeing over Japan or United States of America from 1970 to 2007. In case of domestic, the number of patent applications were heavily focused on the metropolitan area in 1990's, but started to increase in the Honam region and Youngnam region in the first half of the year 2000 which indicated that the researches and the developments of natural dyeing were very active. In the case of foreign countries, most of their patent applications comes from the corporation such as a company while the number of patents applications from individuals overwhelms that of corporation in South Korea. Also, more of individuals' patent applications were denied than corporations' patents applications. The vegetable dye, a type of dyestuff which is a research subject for patent application, had the most research done above all other dyestuff.
Evaluation of the Wear Comfort of Outdoorwear by Skin Wettedness Analyses
Jeong, Jeong-Rim ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 947~952
The purpose of this study is to analyze skin wettedness(
) used as the rate index of thermal comfort, and to evaluate the wear comfort of outdoorwear. Skin wettedness is widely used to express the degree of thermal comfort. If skin wettedness exceeds a certain threshold, the body feels damp and discomfort. An experiment which consisted of rest(30 min), exercise(30 min) and recovery(20 min) periods was administered in a climate chamber with 10 healthy male participants. Two kinds of outdoorwears made of 100% cotton fabrics (Control) and specially engineered fabrics having feature of quick sweat absorbency and high speed drying fabric (Functional) were evaluated in the experiment. The condition of climate chamber was controlled according to the thermal insulation of 4 kinds of experimental ensembles(E1~E4). Total sweat loss, sweat loss absorbed into clothing and skin temperature were measured. Skin wettedness was calculated from the ratio of evaporative rate to the maximal evaporative capacity. Skin wettedness of 'Functional' was lower than 'Control' in the 3 kinds of ensembles(E1, E2, E4) because the materials of 'Functional' were composed of quick sweat absorbency and high speed drying fabrics, water vapour permeability and waterproof fabrics.
Fabric Dyeing with Myrobalan(Terminalia chebula Retz.)
Han, Mi-Ran ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 953~960
The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of
when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of
when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.
Effect of Heating Process on Color Values of Rayon Fabrics Dyed with Persimmon Extract
Kim, Ok-Soo ; Jang, Jeong-Dae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 961~967
In order to examine the availability of heat treatment for color developing in persimmon dyeing, the rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon extract from unripe persimmon which was used after stock and fermentation. Dyed fabrics were heated at various temperature and time by contacting press heat and drying heat. Color developing results were influenced by the difference of heating method. Press heating method is more available than drying heat method. Effect of temperature and time on
and color values of dyed rayon fabrics was considerable. Considering the practical aspect, The temperature around
and the time no longer 40 minutes can be reach the region of the full color developing by press heating process. It was very shortened than any other method(drying air heat, xenon radiation, sunlight). The dyed rayon fabrics with heat treatment have darker and deeper red-yellow color than which by sunlight and xenon radiation.
Color Change of Combination Dyeing of Safflower, Gromwell and Sappan Wood
Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 11, issue 6, 2009, Pages 968~973
To get a variety of colors on silk fabrics with natural dyes, mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gromwell, sappan wood, safflower were used as the three primary colors for combination dyeing. Metal compounds containing alum and iron were used as mordanting agents. In combination dyeing of safflower and sappan wood, safflower and gromwell, gromwell and sappan wood, various colors were obtained according to the content of dyes used. Safflower/sappan wood dyeing showed different colors between yellow red and red purple of Munsell color circle such a YR, R and RP. And safflower/gromwell dyeing showed R, RP, P and PB Munsell color circle and then gromwell/sappan wood showed R, RP and P. As the result of these experiments, wide range of colors (YR-R-RP-P-PB-B) were obtained according to various mixing portion of safflower, gromwell, sappan wood, dyebath pH and repetition dyeing.