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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2010
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2010
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2010
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2010
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2010
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2010
Selecting the target year
Costume Messages of Kawakubo Rei
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 139~148
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.139
As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo`s fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.
A Study on the Development of Uniform Design by Using the Hanji Thread Fabric - Focusing on the Music Hall Uniform -
Beom, Seo-Hee ; Lee, Hyun-Og ; Shon, Young-Mi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 149~155
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.149
The advanced and complicated modern society recognizes image creation based on the identity of the global competitive age as the important means. The requirement for a new vision to the globally environmental problem has affected on design so that as environmentally-friendly products and technologies have been developed and original expression modes have been appeared which the medium of paper which is natural material, paper has been highlighted newly. Hanji made of mulberry fiber, a bast fiber of mulberry is a representative environment-friendly natural fiber. In addition, it has various functions similar to those of yellow earth such as emission of far infrared rays, antibiosis, deodorization, fast dry ability of sweat, and simple dyeing ability. It is Hanji threads that are produced from various processes of Hanji materials. Therefore, hanji threads are able to be both woven and knitted still remaining Hanji`s excellent characteristics. In addition, it is light, bio-degradable, durable and washable, and it is an environment friendly product with the distinguished texture and sensitivity. Under the concept of `Circle` designed the uniforms of music hall to inform that the uniforms as a media representing music hall represents the unique Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do traditional style.
Development of the Maskdance Dress Design
Kim, Hee-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 156~161
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.156
To improve the standard of living of its citizens, local festivals is located in one axis of the new culture. These symptoms shows that there is increasing awareness of traditional culture such as Hanryu. The purpose of this study is to develope the presentative Dress of Andong International Maskdance Festival to stimulate curiosity and participate easily. 24 villages in Andong were present to represent appropriate Dress of Maskdance Festival which have been announced through the fashion show. The characteristics of the maskdance dress which presented in this study has the purpose of making the specialties of each village to tourism resources. Characteristics of the maskdance dress which designed to blend on the mask was as following. (1) Maskdance dress should shown well and must have strong durability of strenuous exercise in maskdance (2) Maskdance dress should be able to get the sympathy of the spectators. (3) Maskdance dress should be sympathetic as modern costumes. (4) Aesthetics as custumes and requirements as product must be met. (5) Acceptance of Andong region`s traditional beauty is required. (6) Maskdance dress is likely to require long-term use. (7) Maskdance dress must be able to accommodate a variety of body conditions. Through customer satisfaction survey of 158 spectators and 48 members of fashion show, the relevance of masks and costumes, aesthetic and motility of costumes, commercialization potential, especially costume` motility and functional fitness of clothing sizes was highly evaluated. So maskdance dress or stage costumes as long-term development is likely to be considered. And continued research is needed.
The Production Situations of Apparel Sewing Company and the Perceptions about the Mass Customization
Hong, Kyung-Hee ; Lee, Ji-Soo ; Kim, Young-Mi ; Yang, Jin-Ok ; Lee, Yoon-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 162~171
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.162
This study aims to discuss what changes Korean clothing companies and manufacturers have undergone with production facilities moving abroad due to offshore outsourcing and examine what conditions the clothing manufacturers are facing and how the clothing companies recognize those manufacturers. For these purposes, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 firms with annual production capacity of more than 200,000 pieces among clothing brands for the domestic market, clothing exporters and promotion agencies. Those interviewed firms were the companies who were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and the interview-based survey was conducted from December 18, 2008 to January 30, 2009. The key findings from this study are as follows; first, a high percentage of interviewed firms were producing only a small number of items in Korea with a large part of their production line transferred abroad or outsourcing all of their production abroad only with their headquarters in Korea. Second, many were employing contractors rather than their own factories. Third, when asked about the wage levels of clothing manufacturers, many of the clothing companies gave responses such as: `They are just our contractor, so we respect their decision,` `We don`t know because it`s none of our business,` or `We don`t know at all.` Fourth, when asked about the work environment of clothing manufacturers, the clothing companies gave responses such as: `We know in part,` `To our knowledge, they conform to the Labor Standards Law,` or `We don`t know at all.` Fifth, the production line of clothing manufacturers featured straight-line systems, specialization, pairing and compounding/mixing. Sixth, it was found that clothing companies had interest in mass customization but their preparations were not satisfactory.
Relationships among Technology Development Strategy, Marketing Competence, Knowledge Management Competence, and Company Performance of Textile and Clothing Companies
Yoh, Eun-Ah ; Park, Kwang-Hee ; Kim, Mun-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 172~178
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.172
The purpose of this study was to explore relationships among technology development strategy, marketing competence, knowledge management competence, and company performance of textile and clothing companies. Survey data collected from 187 employees in the textile and clothing companies were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple regression analysis. In results, certain levels of correlations were found among technological development strategy, marketing competence, knowledge management competence, and company performance. Specifically, technological gap which was one of the technology development strategy factors was a variable significantly affecting innovation performance and financial performance of textile and clothing companies. Knowledge management competence affected innovation performance whereas marketing competence affected financial competence of textile and clothing companies.
The Actual Conditions of Consumers` Usage of Functional Golfwear
Oh, Ry-Gong ; Koo, Young-Seok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 179~187
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.179
The purpose of this study was to investigate the actual conditions of consumers` usage of functional golfwear which is widely used in the current sportswear market. The study was carried out on 225 golfers in Busan and KyungNam area based on the demographics such as gender, age, occupation, and income. The collected data was processed with SPSS 14.0 program using frequency analysis, reliability analysis, t-test, and ANOVA. In the results of the analysis, golfers did not show high reliability and satisfaction on the functional golfwear. In the results of the most function-required golfwear items, there were shirts, pants, footwear, gloves, windbreaker, innerwear etc. in order. Most of golfers answered that the function of golfwear was required for pleasant and comfort golf activity. Therefore, it is necessary for golfwear makers to develop consumer-oriented golfwear products which are reliable and satisfiable to golf consumers.
The Effect of Online Review Writing Motives of Internet Shopping on Repurchase Intention and Recommendation Intention about Fashion Merchandise
Ku, Tae-Hee ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 188~193
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.188
The purpose of this study was to investigate the online review writing motives of online shopping on repurchase intention and recommendation intention about fashion merchandise. The questionnaire was administered to 279 people who had experience in online shopping. The data were analyzed by utilizing factor analysis, multiple regression analysis and t-test. The results of this study were as follow. First, the online review writing motives were divided into three categories such as benefit pursuit/hedonic shopping value, information transmission and evaluation. Second, the consumer who has experience of writing review prefers to repurchase other products in that online shopping mall and to recommend those products more than the consumer who doesn`t have that experience. Third, the benefit pursuit/hedonic and information transmission had an effect on repurchasing intention and recommendation intention.
A Study on the Obese Junior-High School Girls` Slacles Sizing System and Slacks Pattern Grading
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 194~202
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.194
There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with Obese body shape. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Junior-High School Girls` slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the obesity. The subjects in this study was over 23 kg/m2 of the BMI. The subjects were 124 Junior-High School Girls of 12 to 14 year-old. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 5%, was classified 8 cases. The majority segment is 76-97 size accounting for the 11.29% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 8 size from two groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.
Status quo Analysis on the Wearing Conditions of Working Clothes according to the Working Environment and Working Process -With reference to the Shipbuilding Industry Workers-
Bae, Hyun-Sook ; Park, Hye-Won ; Park, Gin-Ah ; Kim, Jie-Kwan ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 203~213
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.203
This study examined the wearing conditions of working clothes of shipbuilding industry workers according to the working environmental factors and working process features. It was also investigated the relationship between the wearing sense of working clothes and the overall comfort according to work processes. In the working process of shipbuilding industry, the process of fitting, welding, grinding and painting were chosen by considering work environmental factors, disaster types, hazardous materials, work process features, working clothes and safety equipments of each work categorized. The workers of fitting process usually wore the standard working clothes, while more than 60% of the workers of welding, grinding and painting wore the specialized protective clothes. The hazardous work environmental factors such as noise, heavy dust, high temperature and noxious fumes affected to the workers of fitting, welding and grinding. However, the workers of painting were greatly damaged by organic solvent. The dissatisfaction with the wearing performance of working clothes was highly shown in the sweat absorbency, moisture permeability and body protection. In respect of the correlation between the overall comfort and the wearing sense of working clothes, the satisfaction was decreased in orders of movement comfort> sensual comfort> physiological comfort.
A Judgment on Gathered Skirt`s Shape by Visual Image
Lee, Myung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 214~218
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.214
This research was to judge on the gathered skirt`s shape by visual images that was from the different gathered skirts according to different sewing conditions; fabrics(cotton, mixed-wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T). Questionnaire consists of 33 semantic differential scale expressing gathered skirt`s image, and 10 items of the shape were measured by 3D measurements method. The data were analyzes by factor analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA. The image of gathered skirts was composed of the five factors of activities, attraction, grace, softness, and ordinary and it was showed that these five factors occupied 68.4% of the total variance. The shape of gathered skirts was composed of the two factors of the side and the front, and it was showed that these two factors occupied 93.6% of the total variance. According to correlation analysis of visual shape, the front was significant in activities, attraction and ordinary, and the side was significant in activities, grace and ordinary. As a result of ANOVA, the visual images were significant in ratio of gathers. 2.5 ratio of gathered skirts were perceived to be more active and attractive, and 1.5 ratio of gathered skirts were more ordinary and graceful.
The Change of Comfort Properties of Cotton and Hanjee Fabrics with Natural Dyeing and Functional Mineral Treatment
Kim, Sung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 219~223
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.219
In this study, the comfort properties of cotton and Hanjee fabrics dyed with Inonotus obliquus and treated with illite were evaluated and compared. Results were as follows; 1) W/T values and WC/W values of cotton and Hanjee fabrics were decreased when they were dyed with Inonotus obliquus and treated with illite. 2) Although air permeability of cotton fabrics was higher than that of Hanjee fabrics, air permeability of cotton and Hanjee fabrics dyed with Inonotus obliquus and treated with illite was decreased. 3) Thermal conductivity of cotton and Hanjee fabrics dyed with Inonotus obliquus was increased whereas thermal retain property was decreased. 4) Water absorption of Hanjee fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics. Water absorption of cotton and Hanjee fabrics dyed with Inonotus obliquus and treated with illite was increased. 5) Deodorization rate of Hanjee fabrics was greater than that of cotton fabrics.
Natural Dyeing and Dyed Fabrics Properties with Persimmon Juice
Han, Mi-Ran ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 224~232
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.224
The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However,
value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The
values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn`t changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.
Effect of Wearing Compression Clothing on Body Shape
Kim, Tae-Gyou ; Song, Min-Kyu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 233~239
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.233
The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of compression clothing on the body shape of the human subjects. Thirty seven healthy females being overweighted with local adiposity on the buttocks and legs between the ages of 20`s to 50`s were used as the human subjects for the study. The selected subjects wore the compression clothing during 60 days by 8 hours a day. At the start(T0), after 30(T30) and after 60 days of treatment(T60), a cutaneous echography was measured on the right trochanter area of each volunteer in order to assess the thickness of the subcutaneous fatty tissue. At the start(T0), after 30(T30) and after 60 days of treatment(T60), the body weight of each volunteer was taken and the instrumental variations of skinfold measurements of the abdominal fold and inner thigh circumference of the waist, hips and thigh were conducted. The results show that the echography and weight loss of subjects were reduced to 8.34% and 2.08% after 60 days, respectively. Moreover, the skinfold of subjects was also reduced. Finally, skin elastometry of subjects increased.
A Study on the Well-being Technique Natural Dyeing with Natural Resources (2) -Effect of Monazite Treatment on the Cotton Fabric with Natural Dyeing using Perilla frutescens var. acuta -
Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 2, 2010, Pages 240~245
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.2.240
The effects of monazite and fixing agents on cotton fabric dyed with Perilla frutescens var. acuta extract were investigated. The proper monazite treatment concentration, temperature and time were 10%(o.w.b.),
and 60minutes. By various fixing agent treatment,
showed a relatively high K/S value and the order of K/S value decreased as follows, cation surface active agents, soybean and NaCl. And the monazite and
fixing agent showed higher anion emissity than those of untreated cotton and other fixing agents. The cotton fabrics showed improved color fastness by monazite and fixing agents treatments with the exception of light fastness. And the cotton fabrics fixed with fixing agents were showed effective bacterial reduction with the exception of NaCl.