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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
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Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2010
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2010
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2010
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2010
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2010
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2010
Selecting the target year
A Study on Classification and Formative Characteristics of Eco Fashion Design
Kim, Sae-Bom ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 555~563
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.555
This research has attempted for a categorization by contemplating on concepts and characteristics of eco fashion design through analysis of precedent studies and to study the design characteristics, images, and internal values through keyword and design codes which appeared in the precedent studies. The subject of analysis was mostly focused on the theses published in international and domestic academic journals from 1990s to September 2009. The design characteristics of each eco fashion design were analyzed by classifying by form, detail, color, fabric and pattern. Method of analysis did content analysis. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. First of all, types of eco fashion design were human-ecology design, natural-ecology design, and social-ecology design. Secondly, the human-ecology design was presented a natural and comfortable form, color of the nature, and functional and new materials. The natural-ecology design was presented a natural silhouette, natural colors, and natural fiber. The social-ecology design were used a loose silhouette and over-size forms, natural colors, and recycled materials and bio fabric. Thirdly, the images per type of eco fashion design were Zen, sportive, natural, and modern image. And the internal values were presented efficiency, health-orientation, naturalness, and continuity.
A Study on Decoration Techniques Applied to the Korean Traditional Costume of Contemporary Style[Part I] - Focusing on Korean Traditional Costumes for Women which were Delivered between 2001 and 2005 -
Kim, Soon-Ku ; Lee, Young-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 564~573
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.564
The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.
A study on Men's Trunks Designs Characterized by Chinese Letters
Kim, Hye-Ree ; Choi, Won-Kyung ; Lee, Young-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 574~581
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.574
Trunks like men's underpants are similar to boxer shorts and are made in both modern and traditional styles. Like boxer shorts, trunks cover the mid-section of the body (hence the name "trunk"). As the income level of the nation increases, men as well as women become interested in fashion expressing the individual's character, by not regarding fashion as simply wearing essential items to live in. Men's interest in fashion influences men's underwear designs which has been thought previously just as to be worn for living in. Nowadays, trunks are often worn as lounge wear in the household, therefore the need for sensual and characteristic trunks designs is required in the fashion market to meet the customer's new needs. In modern fashion designs, Chinese letters have been artistically presented and used in decorative fashion design regardless of its original meaning, generally embroidered in traditional costumes. Based on the fact that Chinese letters containing lucky meanings have traditionally been used, other Chinese letters meaning positive and prospective future can be adapted and weaved into men's trunks designs. Therefore, in this study, among many good meaning Chinese letters; four Chinese letters, 高(high), 金(gold), 義(justice), 愛(love), have been selected and applied in the trunks designs. The purpose of this study is to develop men's trunk designs using these Chinese letters which can be massively produced and sold in Asian countries which commonly understand the meaning of the Chinese letters as well as in South Korea.
Interactive 3D Pattern Design Using Real-time Pattern Deformation and Relative Human Body Coordinate System
Sul, In-Hwan ; Han, Hyun-Sook ; Nam, Yun-Ja ; Park, Chang-Kyu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 582~590
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.582
Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.
Responses to Customer Anger in the Service Encounter: Retail Employee vs Other Customer Perspectives
Park, Kyung-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 591~598
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.591
Customer misbehavior can affect dissatisfaction and negative behavioral responses of other customers at the service encounter. This study explored other customer and retail employee reponses to customer anger and aggressive behaviors at the service encounter by examining the perceived wrongness of such behaviors under different situations and comparing the two perspectives of retail employees and consumers. Three scenarios were developed representing different situations including firm's responsibility, both of customer and employee responsibilities, and uncontrollable one. Data were collected from individual interviews with 222 retail employees and 149 consumers. The results showed that the consumers' perceived wrongness of customer aggressions were higher comparing to that of employees. The reasons of perceived wrongness were different by three situations implying that responsibility and controllability affected the perceived wrongness. The study further discusses implications.
The Effect of Self-efficacy and Commitment on Functional Satisfaction and Repurchase Intention of Mountaineering Apparels
Hong, Byung-Sook ; Kim, Chan-Ho ; Lee, Eun-Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 599~607
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.599
This study analyzed how the self-efficacy and commitment on functional satisfaction and repurchase intentionof mountaineering apparels. The survey was conducted over the climbers with 298 subjects. The statistical analysis methods were frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and regression analysis. The results showed that the self-efficacy of climbers were classified into self-regulated efficacy, self-confidence, and task difficulty preference, and the commitment of climbers were classified into behavioral commitment and cognitive commitment. The self-regulated efficacy and self-confidence influenced the behavioral commitment and the self-regulated efficacy influenced the cognitive commitment. The behavioral commitment and cognitive commitment influenced the functional satisfaction and repurchase intention of mountaineering apparels. The functional satisfaction influenced the repurchase intention of mountaineering apparels.
A Comparative Study on Clothing Behavior by Lifestyle - Focused on Korean and American women in 30s -
Im, Sung-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 608~618
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.608
The purpose of this study was to offer basic data to global fashion market by surveying differences between lifestyle of women in Korea and America and their clothing behavior with female consumers in 30s in Korea or America with each other cultural background, comparing/analyzing differences between lifestyle and clothing behavior according to Korea and America and making a close inquiry into an effect of lifestyle on clothing behavior. The results of the study were as follows. First, when the study carried out factor analysis of lifestyle, five factors- outward appearance-oriented, leisure-oriented, family-centered, information-oriented and economy- oriented-were deducted. In outward appearance-oriented lifestyle and information-oriented lifestyle, the women in Korea were higher than the women in America. In family-centered lifestyle, the women in America were higher than the women in Korea. Second, when the study carried out factor analysis of clothing behavior, eight factors- aesthetics, indifference, interest, economical feasibility, sympathy, planning, brand-oriented tendency and individuality-were deducted. In interest, sympathy, planning and individuality, the women in Korea were higher than the women in America. On the other hand, in indifference and economical feasibility, the women in America were higher than the women in Korea. Third, in the women in Korea, their lifestyle had an effect on aesthetics, indifference, interest and brand-oriented tendency. Especially, information-oriented lifestyle had an effect on four clothing behaviors. In the Korean women, their outward appearance-oriented and leisure-oriented lifestyles had an effect on only aesthetics, indifference and interest.
A Change in the Area and External Length of the Shape of Sleeve according to Arm Movements
Lee, Myung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 619~625
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.619
The purpose of this research is to analyze the shapes of blouse with above-elbow sleeves according to arm movements. The shapes include five types of the arm movement(basic posture, reach forward 45, 90, and reach lateral 45, 90) in the stand-posture, which were made by different adaptability of clothes. Experiments were conducted to figure out the dressed shape through 3-D measurement Vivid 910, and also to investigate the area of the shape of sleeves on the section map and the diagonal length of the block made by the basic section line in lateral part of sleeve with Rapid Form 2004, a software for 3-D shape analysis. The Data were analyzed by factor analysis, Anova, Duncan test, t-test. The results of this study were as follows: First, the area of sleeve was briefed 3 factor; front, center, back in sleeve. Second, there were different effect of arm movement, section level and part of shapes in the area of sleeve. Third, the diagonal length was briefed 4 factor; back, back-center, front-center, front. Forth, after t-test, there were statistically significant between the reach forward and lateral and between the angles of arm reach.
The Image Evaluations of Male and Female University Students at the Shapes of Skirts
Lee, Young-Ju ; Choi, Kyung-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 626~632
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.626
The results of the image evaluations by various shapes of skirts which are typical female's lower garment were as follows; 1. The composition factors of images by the shapes of skirts were classified into five factors. The 1st factor is lovely image factor, the 2nd is attractive image factor, the 3rd is practical image factor, the 4th is slim-looking image factor and the 5th is long-looking image factor. 2. In the 1st factor- lovely image factor, tiered skirt,
flared skirt and
flared skirt were evaluated to express lovely images. In the 2nd factor- attractive image factor,
flared skirt was evaluated to express refine and attractive images. In the 3rd factor- practical image factor,
flared skirt and gathered skirt were evaluated to express easy and practical images. In the 4th factor- slim looking image factor, males evaluated 8gored skirt and females evaluated gathered skirt to express fat images. In the 5th factor- long looking image,
flared skirt was evaluated to express long looking images by both sexes. 3. In the lovely image factor, gathered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. Both in the attractive and practical image factor, tiered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. 4. In the preference of male and female university students according to the shapes of skirts, both the sexes prefered flared skirt. But the low prefered shapes of skirts were differently evaluated between the sexes; the male students' was A-lined skirt and the female's was pleated skirt and wrap skirt.
The Improvement and Evaluation of the Flight Suit Pattern to Enhance Movement
Jeon, Eun-Jin ; Park, Sei-Kwon ; You, Hee-Cheon ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 633~641
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.633
The purpose of this study is to evaluate a new flight suit in bilateral ways; subjectively and objectively in the improvements of comfort and mobility. Seven healthy males at the age of twenties volunteered in this wearing test. They were over 177 cm in height and 92-95 cm in chest circumference, which satisfies the M95 Special' size described in the Korean Military Specifications and Standards. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of ease of donning and doffing, fitness of wear, mobility, space between cloth and body, convenience in using restroom. Subjective satisfaction evaluation says that the best improvement of movement are neck circumference, chest breadth, armscye circumference, waist back length, crotch length, crotch height and body rise. According to the evaluation, improvements of mobility were conspicuous especially in parts of body like neck, breast, waist, back, and arms. When evaluating objective satisfaction, we measured a angle difference in a prescribed standard-grid on a photograph that picked up while the subject performed each motion in front of 10 cm-interval grid. As a result, the motion that had angle difference above 5 degrees were arm stretching and standing on single leg holding at forward or at his side. Bending necks and waist, crouching also had angle difference of over 5 degrees. The improvements are discussed from the viewpoint that the increased ease in parts of armscye circumference and crotch in new flight suit pattern.
Briefs Pattern Making for Women in their 20's using 3D Parametric Human Body Model
Choi, Sin-Ae ; Park, Soon-Jee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 642~649
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.642
This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.
A Study on the Pattern Development of Baseball Cap
Kim, Na-Young ; Jang, Jeong-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 650~656
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.650
To present a 6-piece baseball cap pattern with good wearing sensation and with good reflection of head shape, this study conducted direct measurement using martin's anthropometer and indirect measurement using surgical tape among women of 20 to 24 years old. For a crown, correlation analysis was carried out between direct measurements and surface shell measurements of each section on the head to set main items for prototype design, along with regression analysis to complete design formula; for a cap pattern, draping design was used on the finished crown to compete cap pattern design formula. The results showed that main measurement items to design a baseball cap included head circumstance and bitragion arc for a crown and the cephalic index for a cap. For the crown pattern reflecting the shape of the head, 6 pieces were designed with different sizes and types of front (F), side (S), and back (B) patterns; hemline was also designed diagonally and completed by reflecting the curve of the head.
A Study on the Service Quality Assessment according to Character Type of Customers by Beauty Shop Type
Park, Eun-Jung ; Park, Ok-Lyun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 657~666
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.657
As the beauty industry has strong intangible attributes unlike the other service industry, the provision of service quality capable of fulfilling customer's desire and customer's satisfaction activity due to this are important. The purpose of this research is to provide marketing materials capable of maximizing consumer's satisfaction as a study on assessment of service quality according to a character type of customers by beauty shop type with the target of customers using a beauty shop. The sub-dimension of a personality type of beauty shop's customers is five factors, which were named neurose, sincerity, extroversion, openness and affinity, and the sub-dimension of service quality is five factors, which were named specialty, responsiveness, empathy, tangibility and reliability. It could be known that the service quality according to the character type of customers by beauty shop has influence on all of tangibility, reliability, expertise, responsiveness and empathy factors. Accordingly, this research would be utilized as good material for service improvement that can divide service quality by beauty shop and maximize satisfaction of consumers. Based on the above research results, marketing implications are that the customized promotional management according to the character type of customers by beauty shop is necessary and the granular management manual according to customer's differentiation by beauty shop is necessary. The effect that a personality type of customers by beauty shop has on the empathy factor among service quality factors shows a significant difference in neurose and openness factors in case of beauty salons, and shows a significant difference in sincerity and openness factors in case of skin care salons.
Dyeing and Functional Property of Cotton Fabrics dyed with Glycyrrhizae Radix Extract(II) - The Color Depth of Cotton Fabrics by Chitosan & Cationed Treatment-
Lee, Young-Sook ; Jang, Jeong-Dae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 667~675
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.667
This research did chistosan and cation treatment to raise K/S vlue. In this result, chitosan 1%, cation 4% treatment showed the highest K/S value. Gilycyrrhizae radix dyeing showed the highest K/S value in pH3, pre-mordant,
, 80 min.. Its color Y, YR. K/S value over 2.5 times showed in chitosan treatment fabrics, 5 times in cation treatment fabrics than cotton fabrics on the condition of none-mordant ones. In the antibacterial activity, staphylococus showed 99.9% in all fabrics. Klebsilla Pneumonia also showed 97.1% in chitosan treatment fabrics and it showed 99.9% in other all fabrics. In the deodorization and UV-cut effect, the more K/S value and the larger effect was showed.
The Effects of Water-Absorbent Softner Treatment on the End-Use Properties of Polyester Knitted Fabrics
Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 676~682
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.676
Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.
Complex Shopping Behavior of Economic Consumers - Focused on Shopping Orientation and Store Selection Criteria -
Kim, Sae-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 5, 2010, Pages 683~693
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.683
The aim of the present study is to investigate the complex shopping behavior of clothing consumer groups classified by the level of economic shopping orientation. Using a self-administered questionnaire, 260 respondents rated their economic shopping orientation, hedonic shopping orientation, convenient shopping orientation, store selection criteria, clothing interest, gender, age, and other demographic characteristics. A total of 248 questionnaires were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, economic consumers showed more hedonic and convenient shopping orientation than uneconomic consumers. In addition, economic consumers valued various store selection criteria. These implied that economic consumers show more complex clothing shopping behavior than uneconomic consumers. Second, as the result of comparing complex shopping behavior of economic consumers and uneconomic consumers by their characteristics such as clothing interest, gender, and age, economic consumers were found to show more complex shopping behavior than uneconomic consumers regardless of the consumer characteristics. Among them, economic consumers with higher clothing interest or in adult age particularly showed more complex shopping behavior. Furthermore, economic consumers with different consumer characteristics showed quite different aspects in their complex shopping behavior. Third, uneconomic consumers showed relatively simple, impulsive, and price-apathetic shopping behavior.