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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 12, Issue 6 - Dec 2010
Volume 12, Issue 5 - Oct 2010
Volume 12, Issue 4 - Aug 2010
Volume 12, Issue 3 - Jun 2010
Volume 12, Issue 2 - Apr 2010
Volume 12, Issue 1 - Feb 2010
Selecting the target year
The Types and Characteristics of Decoration Techniques Applied to Traditional HanBok [Part II] - Focusing on Traditional HanBok for Women that were Delivered between 2006 and 2009 -
Lee, Young-Ae ; Kim, Soon-Ku ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 705~714
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.705
This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women`s clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.
The `Slow` Fashion Characteristics Expressed on 『Vogue』 Magazine Since 2000
Ham, Youn-Ja ; Park, Ju-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 715~722
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.715
The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of `slow` fashion style expressed on fashion magazine in pursuit of sociocultural paradigm change towards `slowness`. As for the research methodology, content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. First, the concern toward eco-friendly ethics has been involving simple style which is long-lasting, junky style which is reused or recycled, and sustainable style which is motived by nature. Second, the interest toward local diversity has been involving ethnic exotic style which is inspired by global culture and vintage retro style which is applied the old tradition. Third, the attention toward self-made has been involving personal style which is produced through the process such as made-to-measure, made-to-order and reform. Also, anonymous dresses can be personalized easily under mix-n-match. In Conclusion, the `slow` fashion characteristics has been expressed on contemporary mass fashion in various way and the `slow` fashion would be expected to improve in accordance with the change toward sociocultural paradigm of `slowness`.
The Figurative Characteristics of Traditional Chinese Jumoni (pouches)
Jang, Hyun-Joo ; Kwon, Su-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 723~735
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.723
The purpose of this study is to analyze the types of Jumoni (pouches), which takes the most quantity of traditional women`s handicrafts in China, and examine figurative characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of literature and museums. Traditional Jumoni of China included Dae, Nang, Hapo, Tu, Hap, and Chimeui. Its types included a pleated type, a covered type with a lid, an opened type without a lid, and a type that was stitched up after putting objects in it. The Jumoni had various shapes such as a polygon, a circle, and shapes imitating objects. It was used to store cosmetic utensils, sewing supplies, everyday household utensils, valuables, medicinal ingredients, flavoring materials, and so on. It had various figurative characteristics which were different from those of women`s handicrafts in Korea. Based on the findings, it aims to provide basic information for developing Korean traditional accessories that make the best of Korean traditional beauty as well as add modern esthetics have both Korean traditional beauty and modern esthetics.
Analyzing Trends in Retail Alliances
Park, Kyung-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 736~744
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.736
Alliances, collaborations and partnerships are essential practices in today`s business. The purpose of this study was to understand the trends in retail alliances by analyzing the patterns of alliances in the Korean retail market. Retail alliance cases were collected from the published news article database in a major internet portal. A total of 1,061 retail alliance cases for the first decade of the 2000s were categorized into the alliances: 1) within the same retail format and 2) across different formats within the retail industry; and 3) with service industries and 4) with manufacturing industries outside the retail industry. The study described the patterns on the characteristics of participating retailers and partners, industries involved, and alliance types for each of the four categories.
Study on Consumer`s Complaints Behavior and Information Search Behavior According to Return Factors of the Internet Fashion Mall
Kim, Ju-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 745~754
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.745
This study is to find return factors when modern consumers purchase goods from an internet shopping mall and then to analyze the characteristics of complaints act and information search behavior. Subjects of research are 245 men and women, who have experience with more than one return in internet fashion shopping mall, in their twenties. The data were analyzed by using Factor analysis, Cronbach`s analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan test as a post identification, Pearson`s correlation analysis and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study are that male and female consumers in their 20s are mainly aware of the return factors: impulse buying, product status, deliver service, service after purchase, hype and comfortableness. And complains behavior often conduct public action, private action, nonaction. Information search behaviors for risk reduction when they purchase are product comparison, oral information search, neutral marketing information search, and service information search. The return factor from the internet fashion shopping had the greatest impact on public action and deliver services factor was a big complaint. In addition, impulse buying & Hype affect private action and non-action is influenced by impulse purchase. The consumer types by the return factors in internet fashion shopping mall are classified into the return group by deliver service, the return group by complex factors, and the return group by product status. Furthermore, there are significant differences in complaining behavior among these groups. In the information search behavior for reduction of risk factors, the return group by complex factors did more active information search behavior than the other groups. The return group by deliver service searched oral information and the return group by product status explored the neutral marketing information.
A Study on Persuasion Effects of Online Cosmetic Advertising -Focused on Types of Social Proof Message and Product-
Park, Hyun-Hee ; Li, Qin ; Jeon, Jung-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 755~763
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.755
This study was intended to identify the persuasion effects according to social proof message type and product type in the context of online cosmetic advertising. For the experiment, 4 stimuli were developed as experimental stimuli for the 2(social proof message type: attitudinal social proof message, behavioral social proof message)
2(product type: hedonic product, utilitarian product) factorial design. A total of 160 questionnaires allocating forty students to each group were distributed. The results were as follows. First, behavioral social proof message showed more effective than attitudinal social proof message in advertisement attention, click-through intention and purchase intention. Second, utilitarian product showed more effective than hedonic product in advertisement attention, click-through intention and purchase intention. Third, there was interaction effect according to social proof message type and product type on the aspect of click-through intention.
The Effects of Somatotype and Body Image on Apparel Fashion Orientation
Jeong, Su-Jin ; Chu, Mi-Seon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 764~773
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.764
The purpose of this study was to analyze the difference in body image and apparel fashion orientation according to gender and somatotype. And the paths for the apparel fashion orientation affected by these variables were also analyzed. The data for this research were collected from questionnaires of 210 male and 180 female college students. The results of this research are as follows: It was found that subjective somatotypes of male and female college students were different from objective somatotypes and that female college students showed high degree of somatotype distortion compared to male college students. The body image was composed of three factors, interest in appearance`, concern about weight` and satisfaction in appearance`. Female college students were highly interested in appearance and weight with exhibiting high interest in appearance for the persons who have a thin somatotype and in weight for the persons who have an obesity somatotype, respectively. Female college students were more closely associated with fashion than male students. The higher interest in appearance, concern about weight and satisfaction in appearance persons have, the higher degree of leadership in fashion opinion, fashion innovativeness and confidence in apparel the persons showed. Thus, female students, thin somatotypical persons or standard somatotypical persons were highly interested in appearance. The persons who are more concerned about appearance showed the high degree of leadership in fashion opinion, fashion innovativeness and confidence in apparel. And the persons who are satisfied with their appearance exhibited high leadership in fashion opinion and confidence in apparel.
A Comparison of the Clothing Behavior and Wearing Sensation of Early Elderly Women between Korea and USA
Lee, Young-Ju ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 774~780
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.774
The purpose of this study was to better assess and understand current needs and wearing sensation, including clothing behavior for early elderly women in the Korea and USA. The subjects in this study were 135 and 173 early elderly women in the Korea and USA. This research was done by a survey method and chi-square test. The major objectives of this study were as follows; First, it was found that the early elderly women of Korea utilize mostly human information as information source when purchasing clothing, whereas those of USA mostly media information. The women of Korea were found to put most emphasis in esthetic aspects of clothing, whereas those of USA in comfort. The most frequently worn clothes by the early elderly women of Korea were jumper, T-shirt and slacks, whereas jacket, sweater and slacks by those of USA. As for skirt, flare skirt was highly preferred in Korea, whereas A-line skirt in USA. Second, regarding the wearing sensation of ready-made clothing, the wearing sensation of jacket was found to be worst on the shoulder in Korea, whereas on the waist in USA. And the early elderly women of both Korea and USA had poor wearing sensations due to the length of sleeve, of trouser, of skirt and of one-piece dress. The comparison of the clothing behavior and wearing sensation of the early elderly women between Korea and USA showed a greater difference in clothing behavior than in wearing sensation.
The Study on Jacket pattern in Craftsman Women`s Wear Pattern Examination
Park, Mi-Kyeoung ; Song, Jung-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 781~788
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.781
To work in the fashion industry which has entered the digital age, and in specialization and high-industrialization age, one needs to attain various skills required for the qualifications of a fashion specialist. For these, qualification certificate systems are enacted to nurture specialized technical personnel, and among these, a jacket pattern is selected from the practical examination of Western-style dress skill prepared for nurturing specialist who can design, cut, and sew women`s clothing, to be compared and analyzed against the existing printed practical textbooks, technical books of making clothes which used as college textbooks, and local documents of theoretical study documents. The methodology of the research is to select 8 samples for the study, analyze the identity with the design, and then cut applying the identical dimensions and compare the measurements, and make the clothes using each cutting methods, and inspect to find the consistency with the design and made statistical analysis. As a result, we designed and made research patterns, and suggested a jacket pattern design to patterns simply that suits the design fast.
A Study on the Ease in Jacket Bodice Pattern for Abdomen-obese Middle-aged Men from Virtual Appearance Evaluation
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 789~795
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.789
The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men`s average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.
Construction of Two-Dimensional Database of Korean Traditional Shoes for the Development of Cultural Contents(1)
Park, Hea-Ryung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 796~811
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.796
Research materials of Korean traditional shoes have so far been mainly literary explanations or plane pictures expressed on the basis of the explanations and photographs of incomplete forms of relics excavated and it makes us have difficulty in observing them visually and producing products with them by design application. This project is to establish database of literal data of Korean traditional shoes and visual data using 3D in order to make the foundation of developing culture industry contents using Korean traditional shoes. According to the initial research plan. first. it analyzed and arranged the Korean traditional shoes into period. sex and function as the research goals of the first year. categorized the form. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes and then database of the materials was performed with text. Second. visual image materials including forms. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes were established as database with scanner. digital camera and computer 2D. Results of such a database will be able to be used as important materials which can be the foundation of culture industry contents development of traditional shoes and be the materials for developing digital culture contents of traditional shoes and teaching Korean traditional culture.
Classification of Head Shape and 3-dimensional analysis for Korean Men
Choi, Young-Lim ; Kim, Jae-Seung ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 812~820
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.812
The objectives of this study were to classify the head shapes of Korean men and to suggest computer tomography as a new body measurement method. The 23 head measurement items of 760 men, aged more than 18 in Sizekorea 2004 database were used to analyze, measured by using statistical methods. Factor analysis, cluster analysis and duncan test were performed using these data. Through factor analysis, 5 factors were extracted upon factor scores and those factors comprised 70.91% for the total variances. The head and face shapes were categorized as 5 types-triangle, round, oval, long, rectangle. We decided for the type 1(triangle) to standard head shape since this type was the most observed. 21 participants were measured using computed tomography(CT). The measured data of skin and skeleton and the standard head shapes were illustrated.
A Study on the Costume Work Applying the Men`s Vest of Eighteenth Century
Moon, Myeng-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 821~829
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.821
The men`s costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men`s wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men`s vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women`s wear. The men`s vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume`s image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men`s wear as women`s wear. I made five women`s costumes applying design characteristics of the men`s vest of the eighteenth century. These five women`s costumes have decorative aspect of men`s vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men`s costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women`s costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men`s vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.
Effects of Skin Pressure by All-in-one on the Rhythm of Body Temperature During Sleep
Jeong, Jeong-Rim ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 830~836
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.830
The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of skin pressure by wearing all-in-one on the rhythm of body temperature such as skin and rectal temperature which play a crucial role in the nocturnal rhythm. Five healthy female were participated in the study as subjects. The experimental clothing was an all-in-one, one of the foundation, which is worn for shaping the body. The total experimental periods were 5 days. On the 1st day, subjects did not wear the all-in-one (None), and they wore it for about 12 hours per day from 2nd to 5th day (Wearing1~4). Skin and rectal temperature were measured during the entire experimental days to figure out the rhythm of body temperature during sleep. When subjects wore the all-in-one, the gradients of the forearm and calf skin temperature at the sleep onset were significantly smaller than "None". It indicated that the rise of extremities` skin temperature was low on the "Wearing1~4". The decline of rectal temperature in "Wearing 1~4" was smaller than "None". Therefore, the skin pressure by all-in-one may cause the temperature of extremities` skin and rectum to change, resulting the fluctuation of the circadian rhythm, finally it could have effects on the rhythm of sleep.
Absorption Properties of Chitosan and Nano Silver Composite knit Fabrics Dyed with Chrysanthemum indicum Linn Extract
Chu, Young-Ju ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 837~842
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.837
This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics dyed with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that
values of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics were higher than cotton 100% knit fabrics in dyed condition with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. Chrysanthemum indicum Linn confirmed that this could be a polygenetic colors.
values of post-mordant treatments knit fabrics were higher than pre-mordant treatments knit fabrics in dyed condition with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn., and mordant treatments method influenced the chrominance change. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. The fastness of the chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics was better than cotton 100% knit fabrics. In the result of antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite knit fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.
Evaluation for the Heating Performance of the Heated Clothing on Market
Lee, Hyun-Young ; Jeong, Yeon-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 12, issue 6, 2010, Pages 843~850
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.6.843
To evaluate the heating performance of commercial heated vests, we investigated the thermal images and the temperature between body and vest for three heated vests. We captured infrared thermography by FT-IR Spectrometer to analyzed the heating temperature of the heating elements taken from the vests, and the maximum heating temperature of the vests was compared with thermal image in the room temperature(
). In outdoor experiment(
), we measured the inner temperature as well as the thermal image of heated vests. Four healthy men participated in this experiment, and the ANOVA and Duncan test was performed for statistical analysis. As the results, the heating temperature range of the heated vests used in this experiment was
, much lower than the displayed temperature range in their specifications, so the exact specification for heating performance of heated clothing was required. In comparisons of the heating performance among the heated vests, we found out that the insulation of clothing is very important to design the heated clothing, because the inner temperature of the vest had good insulation by itself was higher than that of the vest shown higher temperature over
than another vests at the heating temperature.