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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
A Study of the Heroine's Stage Costume in the La Boheme
Choi, Yoo-Jin ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 299~308
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.299
The purpose of this study was to research the heroines' fashion styles in the opera, "La Boh
me." This article studied the representations of the grisettes in 1830's France and the characteristics of the grisettes appeared in the original novel, "Sc
nes de la Vie de Boh
me" and contemporary literatures and paintings. The one of the heroines, Mimi was figured a virtuous female despite poor environments, by contrast Musetta was described as cruel, greedy and vicious female in the opera. But, by analyzing the original novel and the representations of the grisettes in contemporary literatures, this study figured out clearly Mimi and Musetta have same origin and similar aspects, not contrast. Up to the present mimi's costumes were not sophisticated but too simple compared to Musetta's. Also Musetta's costume were too much luxury considering her status. This study proposed a new fashion style considering not only analysis result of the heroins' characteristics but contemporary costume design of the 1830's France.
A Study of the Mimesis in Media Costume Design
Yang, Su-Mi ; Kwon, Mi-Jeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 309~320
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.309
Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.
A Study on the Effects of the View of Afterlife on People's Perceptions about Shrouds
Lee, Soo-Hye ; Lee, Ja-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 321~331
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.321
The purpose of this study is to determine how the people's view on afterlife affects their perception about shrouds. As part of analytical research, the survey was carried out to take a look at the basic thoughts that average persons have on afterlife. This paper also performed the survey on what the shroud reminds the subjects of. Specifically, the questionnaire survey was conducted to see what the people think the necessity and appropriate cost of shroud and see if they have any plan to get it provided in detail. Data from this work were statistically processed and empirically analyzed. Findings of this study can be summarized as follows. As to the funeral methods, the subjects in this work preferred cremation to burial. It was found that they recognized shrouds as necessary, but they did not have a thought in a serious manner that the suit for the dead would affect the repose of the dead and guide his or her soul to the heaven. Those respondents did not have any immediate plan to purchase shrouds, either. However, they considered the price of shroud as most important when they might come to choose the garment. With regard to the quality, it turned out that they preferred the domestic shrouds whose material are natural to those from foreign country. Also, they opted for such a kind whose shape is not so different from that of casuals they would usually wear and whose color is same to the main material of the original garment. The common material preferred most by the subjects was a hemp. The subjects' view of afterlife was not greatly related not only to how much they recognized shrouds as necessary but also to their preference for materials and patterns. On top of this, their unique taste for particular types of shroud was found to be significantly dependent on whether their view of afterlife is positive or negative, whether they firmly believe in afterlife, whether they take the absolute predestination and whether they accept the prayer-effect relationship in terms of psychology.
Manufacture Research of Gradual Standard Color Chart for the Capacity of Reinforcement of Practical Color Coordinate Education
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 332~345
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.332
This research designed usable standard color chart which was planned by hue and tone color system. This research studied 5 types standard color chart by designed tone map and preceding research. "Basic Color Chart 14 Colors" was planned for kindergarteners. "Primary Color Chart 63 Colors" was planned for schoolboys. "Middle Grade Color Chart 114 Colors" was planned for junior high school students. "High Grade Color Chart 152 Colors" was planned for senior high school students. "Hue and Tone 205 Colors" was planned for university students and general publics. These 5 types standard color chart were produced the trial color coordinate card and attached the Munsell notation which could reappear the spare color paper when needed. These 5 types standard color chart would be offered the data base for efficient color coordinate education as school age.
Color Preference and Color Meaning of University Students
Je, Gi-Yeon ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 346~352
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.346
The purpose of this study were to see what is the color preference for college students and the meaning of color, based on color psychology. The subjects are the male and female university students in Busan and the survey is conducted in March 2009, September 2009. Analysis is based on eight kinds of colors such as red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue, purple which are used in the psychological analysis of Howard & Dorothy Sun Corporate CRR (Colour reflection reading), and words representing the meaning of colors. A total of 259 questionnaires were used to analyze data and analysis was conducted by using SPSS 14.0 statistical package. First, by examining the best three colors among eight colors, the red which represents sociable and passionate leadership and a lot of energy was the first. Second, in terms of positive and negative sense, the green is stable, protected, red is passionate, strong', yellow is bright, happy and green is' clean, young. The Blues has peaceful, tranquil image', the orange is lively animation, cheerful, and the purple shows a positive meaning of beautiful, precious, often mature, loving. Third, the preferences of boys and girls to compare colors in the first preferred color, there were significant differences between boys and girls. Most boys prefer blue, while the girls like red the most. Both boys and girls look at the meaning of green color with the most positive sense and especially male students have the negative connotation about the green color than female students.
Influence of the Brand Equity of Exclusive Imported Brands by Department Stores on the Performance
Lyu, Moon-Sang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 353~363
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.353
The purpose of this study was to deduce factors organization of brand equity for the exclusive imported brand by Department Store and to analyze it's influence on the performance. Subjects for the quantitative study, quota sampling was adopted in the areas where the subject brands were in place, and 452 questionnaires (141 of hands-on staff, 311 of consumers) were analyzed. The data were analyzed by using factors and reliability analysis, the independent sample t-test, and multiple regression analysis. The results were as follows; 1. The examining the effect of asset evaluation attributes of imported brands(GAP, ZARA) monopolized by certain department stores on business achievement and consumer attitude, it turned out that business achievement in hands-on staff's asset evaluation in view of business entity had meaningful difference according to the contract types of the brand, and that business achievement according to hands-on staff's evaluation and consumer attitude according to consumers' evaluation were different according to the brand asset value. 2. The examining the effect of consumer attitude according to consumers' evaluation, it turned out that preference had meaningful effect on both store preference and intention of re-purchase, while as to ZARA, image had meaningful effect on store preference and intention of re-purchase, and reliability on store preference.
Consumers' Type According to Narcissistic Orientation and Consumption Value of Apparel Products and Cosmetics
Hwang, Yeon-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 364~372
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.364
The primary purposes of this study were to classify consumer's type according to narcissistic orientation of consumer and then to reveal consumer's perception differences on consumption value of apparel products and cosmetics subject to the types. Data were collected from 194 female college students in Ulsan. It was analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis and MANOVA, ANOVA using SPSS Win 12.0. The results were as follows: First, consumer's types classified according to narcissistic orientation were non-narcissist, high-narcissist, leadership and self-absorption. Second, in the consumption value of apparel products case, there were significant differences in effective value, symbolic value and sensitive value among the types. Third, in the consumption value of cosmetics case, there were significant differences in sensitive value and effective value among the types.
The Effect of Partnership Formation Factors on Partnership Outcomes in Textile Industries in Daegu and Gyeongbuk
Kim, Ji-Mi ; Kim, Mun-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 373~381
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.373
This study focused on investigating factors of partnership formation for transactional enterprises on supply chain to form a transactional relationship centering around textile industry in Daegu and Gyeongbuk. The study also investigated the effect of the factors of partnership formation for mutual cooperation among textile manufacturers in Daegu and Gyeongbuk on partnership outcomes, and finally provided basic information that help enterprises form efficient partnership relationships with related manufacturers. The sample of the study was manufacturers of yarn, dyeing, weaving, process and fabrics in Daegu and Gyeongbuk that are registered on Korea Federation of Textile Industries. The total of 81 responses were used for data analyses, and factor analyses, regression analyses, and ANOVA were utilized appling SPSS 14.0 Package. The results of the research were as follows: First, among partnership formation factors mutual confidence was highly related to presentation of exclusive technological information, efforts to keep relationships between enterprises, presentation of information, and transactions between reliable enterprises that were formed despite of any losses. Second, it was also important that enterprises exchange and communicate their business goals with partners by having common goals. Third, it was also important that problems and damages were informed to and were shared with transaction companies. If conflicts between enterprises occurred, they can be smoothly solved based on the partnership formation. Fourth, enterprises form partnerships with transaction companies by considering their operation abilities. Fifth, transactions with enterprises which are mutually reliable and have superior technology and information contributed a lot to economic outcome. Lastly, the study revealed that among partnership formation factors mutual confidence to transaction companies influenced outcome of mutual confidence profit creation, outcome of technology & information efficiency were closely related to the ability to solve generated problem, and an important factor of the outcome of technology & information profit creation was communication.
An Analysis on the Design Factors for Pants Pattern - Focused on Crotch Region -
Moon, Jee-Hyun ; Jeon, Eun-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 382~389
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.382
Pants is an item of clothes of which physical suitability for improvement of appearance and movement is greatly emphasized. The pattern design of pants is very important because the fitness of crotch region, which is difficult to measure, is structurally essential in pants. This study gives detailed pattern development data for the future pattern design by considering design factors related with crotch region of pants and by suggesting related data. For this study, we measured and analyzed the measuring size of each parts of pattern and the design methods related with crotch region selecting 20 textbooks used in universities and institutes of higher education. Through this study, crotch region of pants pattern related design data were obtained and this result could be a primary information in development and education of pants pattern.
The Influences of Shopping Enjoyment and Risk Reduction on Behavioral Intention in Internet Shopping Malls using a Moving Virtual Model
Yang, Hee-Soon ; Choi, Young-Lim ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 390~397
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.390
This study investigates the influences of shopping enjoyment and risk reduction on customers' attitude and the behavioral intention in the Internet shopping mall using a moving virtual model. For this study, we produced a moving virtual model to present a fashion product. The virtual model walks for about one minute on the stage. After respondents viewed it, they completed a questionnaire. The questionnaire consists of online shopping enjoyment, risk reduction, customers' attitude and behavioral intention. Respondents are limited to females aged in their 20s and 30s, who have experienced Internet shopping and are highly interested in fashion products. 411 samples were used for the final analysis. Cronbach's alpha, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis were conducted. The results are as follows. Online shopping enjoyment and risk reduction influenced the behavioral intention directly as well as through the attitude. However, the size of the influence indicated that online shopping enjoyment is larger than risk reduction. Therefore, Internet malls should utilize the moving virtual model to provide customers with enjoyment and risk reduction, which will increase customers' favorable attitudes and the behavioral intention such as purchase intention and word of mouth.
Structuring Program to Improve Unbalance of Woman's Face
Kim, Ae-Kyung ; Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 398~408
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.398
This study shows that the self-satisfaction individually is rising and social life is attracted effective and successful in image making field by structuring the facial image improvement program through experimental study in order to improve unbalance of women's face. Experiment is conducted by electing 3 samples for 12 weeks and analyzing the measurement and visual analysis, infrared thermography, and evaluation of experts in order to check the facial unbalance. Subject 1 had the effect at approximately in 4 weeks with the severely distorted chin line and mouth appendage. The facial outline became softer to turn entire image to be softer and more feminine. Subject 2 had the severe distortion of location and size of eyes and nose. But the skin was getting better at first, followed by eyes getting clearer with the location changed in left and right. Subject 3 had the twisted nose and lower chin, but after two weeks, the eye area and skin were better and the width of left and right chin was similarly changed. On the basis of the above research result, the program to effectively improve the image was structured and presented with the resolution of facial unbalance. Program is consist of the training of breathing method, face washing method, facial muscle exercise.
A Study on the Changes in the Make-up Color and Texture by the Type of Make-up Image Shown in the Beauty Trends
Kim, Myoung-Lee ; Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 409~417
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.409
This study aims to investigate makeup images shown in the beauty trends and analyzes the characteristics of makeup colors depending on the types of facial makeup. This survey's collected data includes a total of 365 makeup colors which have been shown in the beauty trends for the last three years. The pictures and vocabularies shown in such data were analyzed and thus we could have classificatorily six kinds of makeup images. In addition, makeup colors were divided into two subcategories: eye makeup and lip makeup, both of which have the most significant impact on the makeup images. As the results, the types of makeup images shown at beauty trends were classified such as natural image, gorgeous image, elegant image, sophisticate image, and romantic image. If analyzing yearly changes, active, romantic, and elegant images were common in 2008, and natural image displayed a certain strong tendency amid pro-environmental trends in 2009, and gorgeous images were appeared apparently in 2010, while natural image showed a bullish tendency yet. Regarding to color characteristics by makeup images shown at beauty trends, YR color in eye makeup and R in lip makeup looked bullish generally, and a lot of changes were shown in color tones. This fact gives help in grasping fashion colors and color tones of yearly makeups. Based on these results, this study examines makeup colors for expressing makeup images closely, and then suggests that it could be utilized in makeup color planning.
The Effects of the Seam Type on Fabric Drape
Paeng, Suk-Kyung ; Jeong, Su-Jin ; Chu, Mi-Seon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 418~424
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.418
The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.
Washing Effects according to the Rinsing Conditions and the Characteristics of Soiled Fabrics
Jo, Won-Joo ; Lee, Deug-Hee ; Park, Eun-Jin ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 425~431
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.425
The purpose of this study was to investigate washing effects according to the rinsing conditions and the characteristics of soiled fabrics. In this study rinsing conditions including rinsing cycle, time, temperature, and bath ratio were examined. The foamability of rinsing bath was also examined. The quantity of LAS in the rinsing bath and extracts of test fabrics was analyzed after washing and rinsing, respectively. The results of these experiments were as follows: The washing effects of soiled fabrics were varied from the kinds of soils and rinsing conditions. The removal of soils from fabrics was increased by the first rinsing after washing effectively. The priorities of rinsing conditions were rinsing temperature> rinsing time > rinsing cycles> references. Foamability was result from residual LAS in rinsing bath and fabrics extracts after rinsing. The residual quantity of LAS was references > rinsing cycles> rinsing time> rinsing temperature, which shown rinsing temperature was the most efficient factor of the rinsing performance.
Natural Dyeing of Silk Fabric with Rheum undulatum L.
Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 432~437
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.432
The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Rheum undulatum L. extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Rheum undulatum L. extract were 90% v/v,
, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods. Light colorfastness of mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Cu mordant was showed the most effective bacterial reduction.
Dyeing Property of Bamboo Leaves Extract on Hemp and Ramie Fiber
Min, Kyung-Hae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 3, 2011, Pages 438~444
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.3.438
Bamboo leaves, as natural dye provide unartificial fresh green, are known for expert property at anti-bacterial, anti-aging, anti-oxidation, skin whitening, moisturizing, peeling of horny, deodorizing and some skin disease like as eczema and inflammation without any allergic response. Also, It is quite common to obtain bamboo leaves from our surrounding but most of them were not in use. On purpose of development the way of recycle with common material to dye, bamboo leaves were used to dye on ramie fiber which is valuable for both of apparel and industrial field and investigated their dyeing property. Using extract from bamboo leaves, dyeing property was examined with dyeability, colorimetric property, light fastness and wash fastness under different conditions by extract density, dyeing time, dyeing method and mordants. As results, dyeing was generally colored in yellowish, K/S Value was shown more higher on hemp fiber than ramie. The most optimum dyeing condition was investigated on pre-mordant treatment, dyeing temperature
, dyeing time 30min and extract density 400%. On the treatment with mordant(Al, Fe, Cu), dyebility on both of hemp and ramie fiber were increased by mordant. Especially with Copper(Cu) as mordant, dyebility was highly increased than any other mordants and dyeings showed in deep color. Also on the fastness test which is the most important to natural dyeing, wash-fastness showed good performance with 4-5 grade but light-fastness was above 4 grade on both of hemp and ramie fiber, lower than wash-fastness overall.