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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 13, Issue 6 - Dec 2011
Volume 13, Issue 5 - Oct 2011
Volume 13, Issue 4 - Aug 2011
Volume 13, Issue 3 - Jun 2011
Volume 13, Issue 2 - Apr 2011
Volume 13, Issue 1 - Feb 2011
Selecting the target year
Development of Pattern Drafting Method for Hip-hugger Tight Skirt and Round Belt
Park, Soon-Jee ; Kim, Hye-Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 661~671
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.661
This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1
The Type and Structure of Men`s Belt in Early-Middle of Chosun Era
Son, Hee-Jin ; Kwo, Young-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 672~678
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.672
This was written based on the type and structure of korean man`s waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man`s waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.
A Study on the Power Suit Style
Kim, Jeong-Mee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 679~685
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.679
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.
A Study on the Preferences of the Kindergarten Uniform Design for the Parents
Moon, Myeng-Ok ; Ham, Youn-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 686~694
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.686
The purpose of this study was to understand the preferences of the uniform design for the preschool student`s parents. 97 parents became subjects for the research and questionaries were analysed by distribution of frequency and percentage using SPSS V. 18.0. The results of this study could be summarized as followings. First, most of the parents preferred to wearing preschool uniform and expected further improvement in function, material and design. Second, the preferred form was semi formal style consisting of shirt, knit vest, knit cardigan, and coat. Third, the preferred colors were the mixing together bright colors and quiet colors in vivid and pastel tone. Fourth, functional materials to comfort in children`s physical activities and to serve convenience in cleaning were preferred. In Conclusion, the preferred design characteristics were combined function to enhance comfort and convenience in children`s physical activities with esthetics to present loveliness and modesty as preschool students.
A Study of Tie-Dye in the Contemporary Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 695~704
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.695
This study is an attempt to explore the expressive techniques and characteristics of tie-dye shown in the contemporary fashion. In doing so, the study conducted a literature review and analyzed the works show cased for 2001S/S through 2010F/W, especially from the "big four" collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London. In the contemporary fashion, tie-dye techniques such as tying, folding and sewing are used in an independent or combined manner to express unique images. They also highlight decorative images in combination with a variety of decorative techniques including draping, pleating, beading. In light of its characteristics, tie dye expresses unique formative aesthetics with diverse patterns and creates more gorgeous images than when many different colors are used for dyeing. The dyeing process works as a critical factor influencing the overall image of design, as it is expressed as a pattern by being applied on the whole of an item rather than in part of clothes. The characteristics of tie-dye techniques used in the contemporary fashion are associated with the expressions of natural beauty, abstract decorative beauty, and dynamic rhythmical beauty.
Fashion Product Salesperson`s Perception of Fashion Company in the Middle Management System of Department Store
Lee, Hyun-Jin ; Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 705~716
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.705
The purpose of this study was to investigate salesperson`s perception of fashion company in the middle management system of department store. This study was conducted by a qualitative research method. An in-depth interview was managed to 14 fashion shop managers and salesperson who have three or more years of work experience at the department store. Interview details were classified three categories: relations with fashion company and others, concern with products supply, concern with products sales. First, the positive factors on relations with fashion company are mutual trust, stability of fashion company, coordination and consideration for shop, communication with fashion company, methodical IT system, methodical education, and social gathering support. The negative factors are unilateral breach of contract from fashion company, communication problem, gap between sales status in shop and product design in fashion company, lack of professional education, difficulty of participating in education, and inadequate employee benefits. Second, the positive factor on products supply is priority of products supply. The negative factors are lack of main items, product procurement lacking rapidity, and problem of securing a supply. Third, the positive factors on products sales are brand pride, display and information support about products, and free gift support. The negative factors are unfair selling commission policy, sales pressure, and excessive responsibility.
The Effect of New Luxury Fashion Brand`s Product Benefit on Brand Loyalty and Brand Commitment - Focus on dual path model by brand Attitude and brand Attachment -
Choi, Mi-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 717~727
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.717
As new luxury brands are becoming more popular, recent new luxury consumers are showing different tendencies of consumption. The purpose of this study is to investigates the specific bond between the product benefits for new luxury fashion brand and the consumer-brand relationship. Specifically this study conceptualizes the dual path which leads to brand loyalty and brand commitment. 300 data from on-line survey were collected from middle class women who had trading up needs and respondents were asked to select their favorable new luxury fashion brand. As a result of an exploratory factor analysis to identify the structural dimensions of product benefit for new luxury brand groups, four factors were extracted; psychological/emotional benefits, social/symbolic benefits, self-expressive benefits, and product functional benefit. Additional results show that brand attitude had more positive effect on brand loyalty and brand attachment had more positive effect on brand commitment. The findings of this study contribute to provide practical implication on market segmentation for new luxury brands.
A Comparative Study on the Changes in Size of Lower Body for Different Postures between Korean and American Women in their Twenties
Choi, Sun-Yoon ; Chun, Jong-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 728~733
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.728
U.S. apparel brands are being imported to Korea more than any other country`s apparel brands. Against this backdrop, this study intends to verify the fitness of U.S. apparels for Korean people in terms of size. To this end, the authors selected 25 American and 25 Korean women in their twenties and studied the differences of these two groups with regard to the size of their lower body parts. In addition, the authors analyzed how the size of each part of the lower body changes according to different postures. All the study subjects were required to be able to wear medium-sized pants of the U.S. apparel. The results of the present study are shown below. The American women were bigger than the Korean counterparts in leg length, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and all height-related sizes. However, the Koreans were bigger than their peers in lengths from waist to crotch; crotch length, body rise and the length from front waist point to hip line. Standing posture was used as a yardstick, when the changes in size according to the different postures were examined. The results indicate that hip and knee circumferences increased in the sitting posture. In particular, hip circumference significantly increased in the American women group. Regarding length-related sizes, increases and decreases in sizes for different lower body parts differed according to the posture. For a walking posture with ordinary strides, the front crotch length decreased while the back crotch length increased. This tendency was more notably observed for Korean women. The American woman clearly showed a decrease in outside leg length for all postures. The Korean women obviously presented an increase in the front center leg length for the sitting posture and for the posture where the knees were bent at
. The length from the front waist point to the hip line significantly declined in the Korean woman for the sitting posture and for the walking posture with ordinary strides.
Design Classification and Development of Pattern Searching Algorithm Based on Pattern Design Elements - With focus on Automatic Pattern Design System for Baseball Uniforms Manufactured under Custom-MTM System -
Kang, In-Ae ; Choi, Kueng-Mi ; Jun, Jung-Ill ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 734~742
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.734
This study has been undertaken as a basic research for automatic pattern design for baseball uniforms manufactured under custom-MTM system, propose building up of a system whereby various partial patterns are combined under an automatic design system and develop a multi-combination type pattern searching algorithm which allows development of a various designs. As a result of this, type classification based on pattern design elements includes side, open, collar, facing and panel type. Design have been divided into coarse classification ranging from level 1 to 7 according to pattern design elements, based on a design distribution chart. Out of 7 such levels, 3 major types determining design which are, more specifically, level 1 sleeve type, level 2 open type and level 3 collar type, have been taken and combined to determine a total of 12 types to be used for design classification codes. Respective name of style and patterns have been coded using alphabet and numerals. Totally, pattern searching algorithm of multi-combination type has been developed whereby combination of patterns belonging to a specific style can be retrieved automatically once that style name is designated on the automatic pattern design system.
The Effect on Menstrual Pain of the Space Energy Application Underwear
Lee, Sung-Ok ; Jang, Jeong-Dae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 743~751
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.743
For the reduction of menstrual pain, treatment and taking medicine will be able to reduce the temporary ache but the grievous pain will be able to occur with the side effect in medicine, if menstrual pain without side effect for health of the woman which is comfortable mind is possible, it will be able to minimize. Consequently for this study that wearing the underwear which irradiates a space energy reduce menstrual pain, the fundamental data which relaxes the various complex condition will be able to provide and effectiveness of space energy will be able to reduce menstrual pain. Research result, when the underwear which irradiates a space energy wore, the menstrual pain was decreased, the underwear satisfaction increased.
The Physiological Responses of Material-improved Working Clothes for Construction Site Worker
Kim, Seong-Suk ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 752~758
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.752
In this paper, experiments to develop working clothes and evaluated, including the current and material-improved working clothes in relation to physiological functionality measurement. Experiments were conducted on subjects after wearing working clothes in an climate chamber, and the thermo-physiological response, such as human body temperature, micro-climate within the clothes, blood pressure, heart rate were measured. In this manner, the physiological functionality of improved working clothes was compared with that of current working clothes and evaluated. The summary of obtained results is as follows: For physiological functionality evaluation through material-improved working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperature than C working clothes. For mean skin temperature, P`s skin temperature was significantly higher than C`s in the second half of the experiment. P working clothes`s temperature around the thighs in Micro climate was significantly lower than that of the C working clothes. Also, humidity within the clothes showed similar trends. During the exercise period, C working clothes showed higher blood pressure than P, but P showed higher heart rates than C. Also, the oxygen uptake amount was higher in C than P during the exercise period, it explains that the energy consumption amount of P working clothes was smaller than that of C working clothes. Of the subjective evaluation, for temperature sensation, workers wearing P working clothes felt cooler. For humidity, C working clothes showed more humidity. For comfort, P working clothes were better, and for sense of fatigue, workers felt less tired wearing P working clothes. From results above, we can see that physiological functionality improved in the material-improved working clothes in the working clothes for construction site workers. The improvement of working clothes through functionality improvements not only will provide personal pleasantness to constriction site workers, but will also generate efficiency and productivity improvements at construction sites. All in all, the continuous study of functionality improvements in working clothes taking into consideration the human body`s physiological responses is required.
An Empirical Study on Air Force Mechanic Parka to Improve the Functionality
Lee, Sung-Ji ; Nam, Yun-Ja ; Choi, Hee-Eun ; Cho, Young-Lim ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 759~768
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.759
This study is designed to understand current wearing conditions of air force mechanic parkas and evaluate their functionality by examining the wearing conditions and wearers` subjective assessment. By doing so, it also intends to identify issues that require improvements; and to provide basic data for future development of air force mechanic parkas. A survey was conducted as a study methodology, and the collected 1,628 questionnaires were analyzed. Findings of this study are as follows. 1. In the usability assessment, it was found that visibility of body sides was needed to be enhanced since reflective tapes were attached only to the front and back of the body; pockets were too big, but not convenient to keep mechanic tools; the design of hiding hood was not suitable for water-proof clothing; and a new design of size-controllable hood was called for since the hood blocked eye sight. With respect to the fabric, dissatisfaction was identified with durability, cold-proof and fire-proof features. 2. In the mobility assessment, respondents showed low satisfaction with collar heights and neck girths. Mobility score was over moderate level on average, except the parka length that obstructs wearers` movement, and neck and collar size. 3. In the wearability assessment, respondents presented moderate satisfaction with pleasantness, weight, pressure and dampness. However, insulation was found unsatisfactory. Based on the result, this study proposed improvement plans on design, pattern and fabric; and is expected to serve as basic data for developing more effective and functional air force mechanic parkas.
Cognitive Ages and Body Images of Korean Adults in their 40s and 50s
Jang, Eun-Ju ; Yoo, Hwa-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 769~777
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.769
Anti-aging is one of the key words to have characterized Korean society, and Korean adults in their 40s and 50s are very interested in this word. In this study, their cognitive ages and body images which are expected to have been influenced by anti-ageing were determined and correlation between them was examined. A survey was conducted and 368 of 500 questionnaires were used in data analysis. Data were analyzed by descriptives, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple response analysis through SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows. First, the cognitive ages of Korean adults in their 40s and 50s showed to be 37.5 years old which are 9.1 years old younger than their average actual ages. Second, their attitudinal body images appeared to be composed of appearance orientation and appearance evaluation, and appearance orientation represented to be a little higher than appearance evaluation. In addition, it showed that the correlation between cognitive ages and the attitudinal body images was low and negative. Third, people in their 40s and 50s revealed to think good health and impression as ideal body images. It was found that they regarded a face as the most important body part for ideal body images and were sensitive of their weight. Forth, correlation between cognitive ages and variables of ideal body images was identified to be significant in 4 variables which are slender, shapely and slim figure and good body proportions. In conclusion, it was shown that Korean adults in their 40s and 50s recognized themselves to be 9.1 years old younger and, the younger they perceive themselves, the younger body images they want. Also, it could be confirmed that anti-ageing is a megatrend in Korean society.
Natural Dyeing of Fabrics with Guava (Psidium guajava L.) Leaf Extract - Characteristics of Guava (Psidium guajava L.) Leaf Extract and Dyeability with Silk Fabrics -
Han, Mi-Ran ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 778~789
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.778
The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were
for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at
and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at
. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.
Detergency of Particulate Soil in Anion/Nonionic Surfactant Mixed Solution
Kang, In-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 790~796
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.790
This study was designed to investigate the influence of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture on detergency of particulate soil under various solutions. The detergency of the particulate soil was determined by adhesion of particle to fabric and its removal from fabric separately. The PET fabric and
were used as materials of textile and model of particulate soil, respectively. The detergency was investigated as a function of surfactants concentration, ionic strength, kinds of electrolyte and mole numbers of oxyethylene ether of nonionic surfactant in different ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture. Although some deviations exist, the adhesion of particle to fabric generally increased with decreasing its removal from fabric. The detergency of particulate soil on PET fabric was relatively higher in anionic/nonionic surfactant mixed solution than in each single surfactant solution, but the influence of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture on detergency of particulate soil was low. Generally the detergency of particulate soil on fabric was at its maximum at 0.1% surfactant concentration,
electrolytes and 10 mole numbers of oxyethylene ether of nonionic surfactant, regardless of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture.
A Study on the Dyeing of CDP(cation dyeable polyester)/Silk Knitted Fabrics With Disperse Type Cation Dyes/Acid Dyes
Sung, Woo-Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 797~805
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.797
This study was carried out to investigate dyeing characteristics of CDP(cation dyeable polyester)/silk knitted fabrics with disperse type cation dyes/acid dyes by one bath dyeing method in comparison with two bath dyeing method in the interests for rationalization of the dyeing process. The apparent color depth(K/S) of the disperse type cation dyes with CDP and that of acid dyes with silk decreased slowly with increasing pH values of dyebath with the exception of sharp decrease at alkali region for CDP. The contamination behavior of CDP by the acid dyes and that of silk by the disperse type cation dyes decreased with progressing of dyeing. The migration ratio(%) of the disperse type cation dyes with CDP is low compared with that of acid dyes with silk. The sediment in mixed dying solution of disperse type cation dyes and acid dyes remarkably less compared with that of regular type cation dyes and acid dyes at
regardless applying of preventer agent of precipitation. When CDP/silk knitted fabrics was dyed with by with mixtures of disperse type cation dyes/acid dyes one bath or two bath dyeing method, the characteristic of reflectance spectra of CDP components were greatly influenced by disperse type cation dyes and that of silk components by acid dyes. It was confirmed that K/S values of each components of CDP/silk knitted fabrics dyed by one bath dyeing method decreased slightly compared with two bath dyeing method.
Development Status of Solar Garments and a Survey on the Solar Clothing Construction
Jeong, Yeon-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 13, issue 5, 2011, Pages 806~814
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.5.806
A solar jacket, which utilizes solar energy for generating electricity, is an example of clothing developed by the fusion of multiple technologies; such fusion of technologies can lead to further developments in the clothing industry and other industries in general. Many research institutes and garment manufacturing companies in Europe and America are developing solar garments; various solar-based products manufactured using solar cells, photovoltaic batteries, etc. are being sold at high prices. The purpose of this study was to investigate the development status of solar garments and their application for generating photovoltaic energy; the study also identified the type of design and upper body clothing preferred by Korean in their early 20s. The survey participants were 188 university students aged between 20 and 25. The design of the proposed six types of solar clothing was evaluated and rated; they were then ranked on the basis of the ratings. A survey on the management of solar garments was conducted, and ratings were assigned according to a 5-point Likert scale, with 5 indicating the strong affirmation. The survey results showed that among the six types of clothing, protective clothing (50%) and sportswear (22%) were more preferable than the others (working clothes (16%), casual clothes (3%), everyday wear(6%), and suits(1%)). Among the six proposed designs, the jumper design (22%) and jean jacket design (21%) were preferred over the others (casual jacket (19%), casual jacket I (15%), classic suit (14%), and climbing jacket (9%)). Factorial analysis of the management of solar garments revealed that the most important factors were the properties of the solar cell and time required for battery charging, and the second important factors were clothing weight and comfort.