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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 14, Issue 6 - Dec 2012
Volume 14, Issue 5 - Oct 2012
Volume 14, Issue 4 - Aug 2012
Volume 14, Issue 3 - Jun 2012
Volume 14, Issue 2 - Apr 2012
Volume 14, Issue 1 - Feb 2012
Selecting the target year
The Analysis of Broadcasting Station's Image expressed in Wearing Dress Color of News Anchors - Comparison among KBS, MBC, and SBS -
Park, Jin-Young ; Lee, Eun-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 165~172
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.165
The purpose of this study was to examine and analyze broadcasting station's image expressed in wearing dress color of male and female news anchors. The data were collected from replay video news(n=180) provided in each station's website during 2005-2010 year. The results were as follows. First, in the case of the male anchor, KBS was focused on the quiet and classic image and the gentle image. MBC was focused on the vital and urban image. SBS was focused on the dynamic and young image. Second, in the case of the female anchor, KBS was focused on the neat, soft, and feminine in S/S season, on the other hand the loud and flamboyant image in F/W season. MBC was focused on the vital and urban image like image of a male anchor. SBS was focused on the private image of a female anchor than broadcasting station's image. Through the results of this study, the image of the individual and companies can be symbolized by the color of dress.
A Study of Fashion Cultural Product Design applying the Form of Traditional Fan
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 173~183
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.173
This paper intends to find out any possibility that a traditional fan can be continuously used for design development of fashion cultural products which highlight the differentiated uniqueness of Korean traditional cultures. For this purpose, this paper will newly reinterpret design-based formative factors that the shape and the line of a traditional fan shows, and then, make a pattern. This paper studied the existing literatures of a traditional fan, made the shape of a traditional fan into a motif, using computer graphic programs, like Adobe Illustrator CS 2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2, and then, applied it to neckties, T-shirts, and scarves. Among various kinds of traditional fans this paper set 4 basic motifs of new formative images by use of the shapes of Dan-Seon and Jeob-Seon, and then, developed them into two basic motifs each. Pink, blue, purple, green, yellow, orange, and gray were used as the basic colors of the motifs, through which splendid, but calm images were planned. The design of a necktie, which used a developed motif design, was applied in the form of a repeated pattern, through which a calm image was expressed. 45o turn was applied to this design to make a striped pattern image or a refined and cheerful image. The scarf design was developed into a rectangular long scarf so it can be used like a shawl. The design of T-shirt was developed into three types: a round neck-lined half-sleeved box type; a round neck-lined sleeveless type; and a V neck-lined, tight half-sleeved type.
A Study of the Expressions of the Silhouette in the Fashion Illustrations
Choi, Yoo-Jin ; Choi, Jung-Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 184~192
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.184
This study analyzed silhouette expressions in the fashion illustrations by theory based on results of studying the characteristics of the forms and meanings of the silhouette expressions in art historically. For the actual considering this study collected and categorized fashion illustrations from 1990 to the present limitedly, and clarified the meaning of the silhouette expressions. Those expressions in fashion illustrations were categorized to the 5 items; black & white silhouette, color silhoutte, pattern silhouette, paper silhouette, line silhouette. Silhouette expressions of the fashion illustrations were categorized to 3 items: metaphorical fantasy, essential minimization, anonymous representation.
A Study on Development of a Stage Costume Design, which expresses Doppelgänger Image: - Focus on the stage costume in "Le Grand cérémonial", a theater of the absurd -
Han, Kyeng-Ha ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 193~202
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.193
With entering the 21st century, modern people's dark inside and panic are emerging as the talking point on the theater stage. Even in the field of stage costume, the necessity of a research is being demanded through analyzing on psychological anguish and structure of characters. Accordingly, this study aims to allow the stage costume design to be expressed a human being's Doppelg
nger Image, which was elicited through analyzing a work of the play titled Le Grand C
monial by a playwriter Fernando Arrabal, who draws the conflictory and contradictory duplicity, which positions in a human being's deep inside by having chaos as catalyst. A research subject is 'Le Grand C
monial,' which was staged as the winter performance in commemoration of the 50th anniversary for the foundation of Dept. of Theater, Chung-Ang Univ. in November 2009. Psychology of characters in a play, which varies dimensionally, could be delivered, as nonverbal element called costume, by applying costume design of Cavanoza, Syl, Nice to Doppelg
nger Image such as Innocence vs Cruelty, Purity vs Superficiality and Restraint vs Freedom, which were elicited through analyzing characters. Through this study, the costume, which was expressed by visualizing a human being's Doppelg
nger Image, could be known to function as important dramatic factor of allowing character's psychology to be understood through costume as well as functioning as visual and sensible language, which is important for communication with the audience. A research on costume design, which reflects a character's complex inside, is expected to be likely continued through in-depth analysis on a playwriter's intention and on the appearing characters at the current point of time when an active research is being performed on stage costume in the wake of this study.
The Costumes and Cultures of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan
Lee, Ja-Yeon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 203~210
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.203
This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.
Development and Design of Modern Europe Chintz - Focusing on England and France -
Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 211~221
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.211
The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.
Perceptions of Visual Merchandising in the Department Stores: The Employee versus Consumer Perspectives
Park, Kyung-Ae ; Jun, Bo-Mi-Na ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 222~229
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.222
This study examined and compared the two perspectives of consumers and employees on the perceptions toward visual merchandising (VMD) of fashion brands in a department store. Importance of VMD elements, roles of VMD, evaluations of VMD elements, and brand and store images were measured and compared. The two types of questionnaires were used to collect data from consumers and employees. A total of 327 consumer samples and 317 employee samples were analyzed. The results showed that there was no difference between the two groups in what VMD elements were the most important. While employees perceived of the role of VMD higher than consumers, consumers evaluated two VMD element factors higher than employees and showed higher store image. Such results were not different by brand types. The study implies that the higher VMD perceptions of consumers are desirable to manage VMD from the employees' perspective.
The Effect of Power Sources of Department Store and Fashion Company, and Salesperson's Job Consciousness on Job Satisfaction in the Middle Management System of Department Store
Lee, Hyun-Jin ; Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 230~241
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.230
The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of power sources of department store and fashion company, and salesperson's job consciousness on job satisfaction in the middle management system of department store. Questionnaire data from 193 salespeople in the middle management of department store were analyzed by reliability analysis, factor analysis, correlation analysis, multiple regression analysis, hierarchical regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows: First, coercive power, informational and expert power, and referent power of department store had significant effects on job satisfaction. The coercive power of department store had a negative influence on job satisfaction, while informational and expert power, and referent power of department store had a positive influence on job satisfaction. Second, referent power, expert power, reward power, coercive power of fashion company had a positive influence on job satisfaction. Third, referent power of department store had a greater influence on job satisfaction than other power sources. Fourth, job commitment and pride, prospect awareness had a positive influence on job satisfaction, while professional self-awareness had no effect on job satisfaction.
The Benefits Sought for the Bedding and Consumers' Characteristics: Focus on the Lifestyle and Demographic Characteristics
Jin, Hyun-Jeong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 242~250
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.242
This study investigates the benefits consumers seek in buying and using bedding, sub-dimensions of lifestyle, and the relationship between those of the benefits and the dimensions of lifestyle. This study conducted a survey to verify benefits consumers seek in buying bedding. A questionnaire was developed to collect data to measure lifestyle, benefits sought for the bedding, and demographic variables. Research was conducted on married women aged between 20 and 59. Total 294 responses were analyzed using factor analysis, correlation analysis, t-test, and one-way ANOVA with SPSS 18.0. A factor analysis identified three dimensions of benefits sought for the bedding: utilitarian benefits, social benefit, and aesthetic benefit. Lifestyle consists of five dimensions: health seeking, social symbol seeking, leisure/country-living seeking, aesthetics seeking, and economy seeking. All dimensions underlying benefits consumers seek in buying bedding and all dimensions of lifestyle were correlated. As consumers get older, they tend to seek more utilitarian and social/psychological benefits of bedding.
Analysis of Wedding Behavior of Chinese Women in their 20's to 30's in Shanghai and Neighboring Cities
Kim, Chil-Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 251~260
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.251
Nowadays, global wedding dress companies are interested in the Chinese wedding market because of expectations in consumption patterns of the post 80's generation. Therefore, wedding behavior, selection criteria for wedding dresses, and favored image by segmented groups targeting 20's to 30's Chinese women were studied to help the Korean wedding dress industry to establish their business in China. The survey was conducted in Shanghai city and three neighboring cities-Wuxi, Zhengziang, and Hangzhou-, and the primary data were analyzed using the SPSS program. As results, Chinese women thought that the wedding ceremony should be elegant and dignified, and they wanted to choose their favorite style rather than a recommended style. The criteria of selection were classified into four factors. Overall image and well fitting with their face and body were the most important factors in the selection of wedding dress. The most favored image was unique/novel image. Several favored images for their wedding dress were significantly different by occasion (ceremony day and photo shoot day) and education level. People of higher education level preferred more luxurious and classic image during the ceremony, and a classic and gorgeous image on the photo shoot day. A white dress and a colored dress for weddings were favored more than the Chinese traditional dress on both occasions. There was also a significant difference between general consumers and the wedding business employees in the quantity of wanted wedding dress.
A Study on Wearing Satisfaction and Thermal Properties of Jumper for Korean Military Tank Drivers
Kwon, Seo-Yoon ; Choi, Eun-Mi ; Lim, Chae-Guen ; Shin, Dong-Woo ; Kim, Kyung-Pil ; Kwon, Oh-Kyung ; Jeong, Hyun-Mi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 261~268
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.261
The purpose of this study is to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and wearing comfort of jumper for Korean military tank drivers through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and to provide basic data for developing its improved design. The survey was done for 477 military tank drivers and evaluation was performed using thermal manikin to measure insulation. The overall satisfaction for design of jumper for military tank driver was over 3.5(likert scale). The overall satisfaction for fitness of jumper for military tank driver was also over 3.5. The satisfactions for material was between 2.39 and 3.13 and the satisfaction for pilling property was the lowest, followed by static property and shape stability after laundering. The satisfactions for movement suitability were standing(3.81), sitting(3,38), raising hand(forward: 2.90, sideward: 3.01), respectively. In insulation evaluation of jumper for military tank drivers and outwears(jacket, jumper), the insulation of jumper for military tank drivers was lower than outwear(jumper) and same with outwear(jacket). The insulation in dynamic and still condition(without wind) of jumper for military tank driver was 0.37clo and 0.31clo, respectively. Its decreation rate in dynamic condition comparing to still condition was 59% which was lower than jacket(0.73clo) and jumper(1.15clo).
A Development of Size System for the Obese girls in Late Elementary School according to the Upper-body type
Lim, Ji-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 269~276
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.269
The aim of this study is to develop clothing size system according to each size interval for obese girls aged 10~12 by classifying the upper bodies. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R
hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. Results are as follows; 1st, 5 factors were extracted by factor analysis and 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, cylinder-type, inverted triangle-type and inverted trapezoid-type. And 2nd, as a consequence of size system establishment, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names at sections of respective types. The research findings above suggest that it is necessary to figure out the obesity types according to height and bust girth sizes representing basic sizes and to design the patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes. And it may be used as a basic data to decide the desirable output of production according to respective body types.
Technical Design of Tight Upper Sportswear based on 3D Scanning Technology and Stretch Property of Knitted Fabric
Kim, Tae-Gyou ; Park, Soon-Jee ; Park, Jung-Whan ; Suh, Chu-Yeon ; Choi, Sin-Ae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 277~285
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.277
This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.
A Study on Sizing System and Wearing Conditions with School Uniform Pants for Highschool Girls
Choi, Eun-Hee ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 286~293
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.286
The purpose of this study was conducted to provide basic information on developing highschool-uniform pants with more suitable fit. To carry out this study, questionnaires were administered to 187 students in high schools in Gwangju. The collected data were analyzed with frequencies statistics, t-test, ANOVA using the SPSS WIN 18.0. The results are as follows; As results of research on highschool-uniform regulation, 88% of the highschool in Gwangju allowed their students to wear school uniform pants. As results of investigation on the school-uniform pants sizing system of manufacturing firm, it was found that there's a trend towards increasing a large size with the change body type. The size labelling for school uniform pants was waist circumference-stature. There were differences in pants sizes according to the manufacturing firm and body measurements such as hip circumference, in seam length, pants length. As results of survey on wearing conditions, the selection of school uniform pants has increased in winter season. The most important body measurement in the choice of purchase was thigh circumference. In fit of uniform pants, respondents answered that waist circumference and hip circumference became smaller according to the physical growth.
Development and Evaluation of Air Force Mechanic Parka to Enhance the Functions and Insulation
Lee, Sung-Ji ; Choi, Young-Lim ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 294~303
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.294
This study was designed to develop air force mechanic parka, evaluate it, and ultimately provide functionally superior parka to the air force. The development process was 1) conducting a survey, 2) identifying problems and shortcomings of currently-supplied parkas, and 3) improving the design, pattern and materials. The newly-developed parkas were evaluated in terms of their ease of fit, clothing mobility, and insulation. Ease of fit was evaluated by subjects' sensory tests, and clothing mobility was by fitness-for-motion tests and range-of-motion tests using a Goniometer. Evaluation on insulation was conducted by thermal manikins. Findings of this study were as follows: 1. In the subjective evaluation on clothing mobility, new parkas were considered to have sufficient ease of fit while previous ones scored much lower, confirming the improvement of the new version. 2. Both subjective tests and ROM measurements on fitness for motion verified the superiority of the new parkas. 3. Insulation tests found that although insulation capability of newly-developed parkas was at a similar level to those of the previous ones, their insulation capability per unit weight was superior, demonstrating that new parkas were better at blocking heat conduction. When making changes in parka patterns and designs to enhance the mobility, it was necessary to maintain the insulation function. The new parkas developed by this study was verified to be superior to the previous ones in their insulation and clothing mobility.
Natural Dyeing of Silk Fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis
Kim, Sang-Yool ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 304~310
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.304
The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis extract were 90% v/v,
, 60 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Scutellaria baicalensis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction.
Natural Dyeing of Chitosan Crossinked Cotton Fabrics - Gromwell -
Kwak, Mi-Jung ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 311~319
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.311
The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b,
and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at
. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased
respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased
Natural Dyeing of Fabrics with Guava (Psidium guajava L.) Leaf Extract II - Dyeability and Functional Property of Cotton Fabrics -
Han, Mi-Ran ; Lee, Jeong-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 2, 2012, Pages 320~330
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.320
The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing are
for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics were dyed in pre-mordanting. The K/S value of dyeing fabrics could be increased with repetitive dyeing and mordanting. Compared to untreated dyed fabrics, the K/ S values of fabrics which had been treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were increased. The changed surface colors of fabrics that were treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were Y, YR and achromatic colors. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color. Sn-mordanted fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed vivid yellowish color, and Cu-mordanted fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed yellowish green color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness was level 4. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the powder of guava leaf extract and the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.