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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 14, Issue 6 - Dec 2012
Volume 14, Issue 5 - Oct 2012
Volume 14, Issue 4 - Aug 2012
Volume 14, Issue 3 - Jun 2012
Volume 14, Issue 2 - Apr 2012
Volume 14, Issue 1 - Feb 2012
Selecting the target year
A Study on Stage Costume based on P. G. Bogatyryov`s Theory - Focus on Mask Theatre "The Story about Sora`s Star" -
Kim, Jang-Hyeon ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 889~897
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.889
This study suggests a direction for stage-costume design by making stage costumes based on amusement, eclecticism, and the masquerade, which are the criteria for approaching stage costume designs according to characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, criteria to approach stage costume design for mask theatre can be classified into amusement, eclecticism, and masquerade according to the characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. Second, the stage costume of a mongrel dog showed amusement through the expression of the image of therianthropy through the combination of a fur-lined vest and wristlet, Korean traditional trousers with the paw-prints of a dog. Third, eclecticism contains diverse characteristics and escapes from being singularly defined due to the fusion of severally different heterogeneous objects. The stage costume differently used a method of wearing clothing in a different period, of choosing clothing materials, and of expressing color in every character to indicate ambiguity to which the drama points through the integration of various expression elements. Fourth, the masquerade present characters (Taembang, Daejang, and Changseok)who simultaneously play the role of fairies after having changed into a white mask and having worn Korean a traditional overcoat (Durumagi) on the original clothes; the, result is the change of the theatrical structure into another time and space inside the theatrical scene of imagination through a concealment of the original clothing.
Design Development of Cultural Fashion Products Based on the Baekje Local Culture
Kim, Hye-Kyung ; Jeon, Hee-Kwan ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 898~905
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.898
This paper develops fashion products that express the beauty of Baekje through an investigation of the unique characteristics of Baekje artifacts. This work can promote the Baekje region and provide cultural goods for local festivals to improve the economic competitiveness of the area. Artifacts from the Muryongwangreung in Gongju (the capital city of Baekje during the Woongjin period)were reinterpreted into a more modern form. Among the Muryongwangreung artifacts, the king and queen`s gold coffin as well as chignon ornaments were used as design motifs. These artifacts were stylized into motifs and developed into patterns using Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. The patterns were subsequently applied to the designs of scarves and ties. The color was selected using the CMYK colorway from the Gongju city logo subsequently, a total of 12 designs (including 6 ties and 6 scarves) were developed. The design developed from this research can be applied to diverse products to promote the area. Using the research as a foundation, fashion product development based on the local culture can have a significant impact on the establishment of the Baekje cultural identity and the competitiveness of the region.
Characteristics of New Painting in Fashion Illustrations
Kim, Soon Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 906~917
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.906
The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of expression and their effects of New painting in fashion illustration since 1990s. This study is focused on searching for the development in expressional techniques of the fashion illustration on the basis of various techniques of New painting. New painting as a trend of new expressionism in America was developed in opposition to the minimalism in the 1980s when the discussion of the post-modernism was most widely. The artists of New painting attempted to resurrect figure through the representation of figure and concrete image, rich in color and strong in image. They also expressed the realistic scene of life with the various kind of medium, materials and styles and appropriation of image from mass media and popular culture. The representation of fashion figure and image through the various kind of painting medium, techniques and styles can express the realistic and sensitive image and increase the communication ability in fashion illustration. It could also deliver the fashion message more clearly through the appropriation of image. These findings indicate that fashion illustrations accept variety by interacting with fine arts and expand the scope of expression.
Aesthetic Characteristics of Face in the Late Joseon-dynasty`s Beauty Paintings
Lee, Hyun-Ok ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 918~927
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.918
This study identified the aesthetic characteristics of the face description in late Joseon Dynasty beauty paintings. A total of 24 beauty paintings were selected as representative of the late Joseon Dynasty genre of painting works. The paintings were analyzed by the shape, color, and physiognomy of beauty trends from the components of women`s faces expressed in the works of artists. The results of this study showed that the shape of the face components expressed a round, curved and thin line. Colors were expressed through Obang-sack (a traditional Korean color). Also the physiognomy of the late Joseon Dynasty`s women was soft, wise, economical and brilliant. A round-forehead meant that economical and virtuous housekeeper, thin crescent shaped eyebrows denoted women of wisdom and excellent sensitivity. Single long thin eyelids and implied a women of longevity. A round curved nose were eager tobe a wise mother and a good wife. Small concave lips were desired eagerly by gentle and intelligent women. A curve face implied a subjective women of insight and good memory. In conclusion, the late Joseon Dynasty beauty paintings expressed a traditional Korean beauty face and a modern baby face. The data are useful for the aesthetic standards of modern through meaning of Korean traditional beauty.
A Content Analysis of Success Factors for Fashion Brand Franchise Stores as Published in Fashion Magazine Articles
Kim, Yongju ; Kim, Hyunsook ; Yu, Haekyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 928~940
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.928
The present study aimed to propose the competitive strategy to fashion brand franchise stores by analyzing articles regarding success stores as published in fashion magazines. A total of 91 articles were selected from three fashion magazines and content analysis was applied to extract major factors. Four types of trading areas and eight product types were compared by the major factors. As results, six major factors composing competitive strategy were analyzed such as personal selling, management of sales forces, promotion, customer relationship management, management of store space, and relationship with headquarter. Comparing competitive factors by the types of trading area, management of sales forces and personal selling were crucial for central district and for outlets/interchange district. On the other hand, personal selling and customer relationship management were important for local district while management of store space and personal selling were critical for tenants of the large discount store/shopping mall area. Comparing by product types, personal selling was the most important factor for all product types except young casualwear whereas the second important one was management of sales forces for adult casualwear, womenbbbs wear, and others. For menbbbs wear, sales promotion was the second important one whereas management of store space was the second crucial one for underwear and childrenbbbs clothing. Based on the present study result, it is proposed that competitive strategy of individual fashion brand franchise store should be differently developed because the characteristics of trading area and product type are different and in turn, customers benefit and competition might be different.
An Exploratory Study of Smartphone Fashion Application to Promote Mobile Shopping
Sung, Heewon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 941~951
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.941
As smartphones permeate the consumer lifestyle, branded application and mobile shopping have also received increased attention as an important marketing channel. This study identifies the general information about the use of smartphones, attitudes toward fashion applications, and mobile shopping intentions for smartphone users. Focus group interviews were conducted and 22 interviewees participated. The age of the participants ranged from 21 to 45 years old (55% were females). When examining the motivation to adopt a smartphone, respondents presented the comparable characteristics of early adopters and late adopters according to the time of adoption. Most respondents over the age of 30 showed some troubles to use a smartphone; however, participants in their 20s tended to enjoy exploring the new technology. More than half of respondents were aware of fashion applications, but were dissatisfied with fashion apps and used them infrequently. Respondents pointed out that fashion related apps were not too practical because they were not updated regularly, provided only limited information, and focused on brand promotions. In order to increase the intention to adopt mobile shopping, the price and payment security system needs to be considered. This was an exploratory study to identify the possibility of fashion branded apps as a major distribution channel. The findings of this study provide fundamental information to formulate marketing strategies for fashion businesses that have developed fashion apps.
A Study on the Combinative Patterns of Lapel and Collar in Tailored Jackets with Different Break Line
Jung, Doo-Yi ; Song, Jung-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 952~959
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.952
This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel`s break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel`s break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.
A Study on the Corset Type Long-Line Brassieres Pattern Development for Adult Women : focusing on women in their 20s
Sohn, Hoo Jo ; Na, Mi-Hyang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 960~967
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.960
The study aims to design the corset type long-line bra patterns that compensate part-somatotype of women in their 20s. The corset type long-line research bra patterns consist of 4 sections: cup, front bodice, back bodice, and shoulder strap. The full cup is made up of 2 lower part pieces and 1 upper part piece, and the shoulder strap is 16 millimeters wide. The method to design the patterns is shown in figure 4 and figure 5. The result of wearing test showed that, while the wearing testers recognized some significant differences in 19 out of 26 criteria, the examiners did in 17 out of 23. The criteria more than 1 in an average value between research bras and commercial bras were `appropriateness of breadth of shoulder strap`, `appropriateness of pressure of armhole circumference`. `appropriateness of pressure of waist`, `suitability of side line and body curve`, `appropriateness of positional pressure of chest circumference`, `appropriateness of positional pressure of upper part line`, `appropriateness of positional pressure of bottom part line`, and `satisfaction of whole silhouette of side and back`. The research and commercial bras were evaluated 4.23 and 3.44 respectively by the testers, and 4.25 and 3.40 by the examiners. The former ones were scored higher by both parties. They were also appreciated higher in general silhouettes of fitting and appearance.
Producing a Semi-automatic Profile Measuring Program (SPMP) in Body Silhouette for Elderly Women
Oh, HeeKyung ; Maruta, Naomi ; Nagashima, Shinobu ; Hirokawa, Taeko ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 968~976
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.968
This study presents a new method called the SPMP (Semi-automatic profile measuring program) to efficiently measure body shape in elderly women. SPMP can automatically measure the angle of axis (19 items), surface (17 items), lengths (14 items), heights (16 items), widths (13 items), and depth (6 items). In total these 85 items are automatically measured very quickly, accurately, and easily after manually marking an initial 36 points. The utility of SPMP was evaluated using several tests. When SPMP measuring results were compared with manual methods (using a ruler and protractor) in thirteen elderly women using a paired t-test, there was no significant difference found between them. Furthermore, when measurements from SPMP were compared with actual measurement results in selected items from seven elderly women`s measurements, smaller mean differences were found than those defined by ISO 20685, with the exception of the abdominal area which moves easily with breathing. Seven independent measurements of a single elderly woman were made by seven students using SPMP, and the values of coefficient of variation were less than 5% for all but 8 items. Finally, this study analyzed the correlation of all 85 item measurements, and found that the angle from the upper chest to the neck towards the front in the axis curved forward as much as the axis angle from the thigh to the waist (r
Research on the Wearing Conditions of Rash Guard in Marine Leisure Activities
Lee, Myung Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 977~982
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.977
We investigated the characteristics of subjects in marine leisure activities and the wearing conditions of a rash guard through a consumer survey. The questionnaire examined the number of rash guards owned by different styles, wearing size, choice of rash guard compared with ordinary clothes, and the satisfaction in a rash guard (color, textile, size, quality, price, function, and design) using Likeret Scales. The subjects were 105 adult men and the data analysis utilized an SPSS 20.0 Package. The results were significant for wearing conditions correspondent with the marine leisure activities. More years of experience resulted in a higher number of rash guards owned. A higher level of participation in sport resulted in more different styles of rash guards. More years of experience resulted in an increase preference for tight rash guards. In the case of wearing L and XL size that selected the smaller rash guard over the ordinary clothes, it was evaluated at "satisfaction" level in color, textile, size, quality, function, design. In the case of wearing XS, S and M size that did the larger and same as ordinary, it was at "ordinary" level and bellow.
The Actual Wearing Conditions and Preferences for Domestic Men`s Slim-fit Dress Shirts
Kim, Dong-Hyun ; Jang, Jeong-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 983~991
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.983
The purpose of this study was to provide basic reference data for the development of slim-fit dress shirts patterns for a variety of body somatotypes. For this study, a survey was conducted on the actual product conditions of slim-fit dress shirts of domestic brands(Actual wearing and purchasing conditions, fit, design preferences). The survey was conducted on 135 men in their 20s~30s. PASW Statistics 18 was used for data analysis. The result of this study are as follows : Analysis of the actual wearing conditions of dress shirts indicates that consumers own an average of 1~2 classic-fit shirts and 1~4 slim-fit shirts. These are normally worn once or twice a week, and purchased mainly at department stores, agencies, direct sales markets or outlets. With respect to the purchasing factors, price and style were the main priorities. Surveyed consumers had the greatest preference for designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, a semi-wide collar and the color white. By classifying the surveyed by somatotype, Type B preferred designs darted on both front and back, Type A preferred designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, while Type Y preferred designs non-darted on both front and back. All somatotypes displayed a preference for semi-wide collars and the color white.
A Case Study for the Stage Costumes Connected with the 3D CAD System -Focusing on the Apparel Pattern Design for Traditional Green Fabrics-
Kim, Hee-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 992~1000
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.992
This study develops a traditional green fabric pattern design through an apparel CAD system. The method used simulated stage costumes and evaluated the consumer satisfaction connected with a 3D fitting system. The results are as follows. Computerization of the pattern making process can provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making and marking for green fabrics. A Stage costumes design was developed; subsequently, the developed dress patterns are automatically depicted to the input of the body size of the consumer and marked using marking program. This results show that it has an effect on narrow and expensive green fabrics. Stage costumes design can make a simulation by a 3D Fitting system. The results of this study can provide higher consumer satisfaction through a survey of 30 consumers. Stage costumes should attract the sympathy of the spectators. The Acceptance of Andong region`s traditional beauty is required. We found that a relationship of performance and clothes, physical functionality and beauty of costumes, possibility of commercialization, and the possible use of a 3D Fitting system use are evaluated. A continuous study of regional culture resources is required since there is a significant possibility for the long-term development of stage clothes.
Research on the Middle & High School Students` Satisfaction and Fitness of Sizing System for Summer School Uniform
Lee, Hea-Ju ; Cho, Ji-Hyun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 1001~1009
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.1001
The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school summer uniform focused on middle and high school students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to middle and high school students, and 1,153 data were analyzed. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of gender in the design(upper garment) and design & activity(lower garment). On the other hand, students` evaluation of summer school uniform was significantly different in the upper garment(textile, design, activity), and lower garment(design, activity) by school age. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length and width of the summer upper garment(blouse/shirts) and the length and width of the summer garments( pants/skirts) were statistical differences in mean of gender or sexuality whereas there were significant differences in the summer upper garment(length, width, the length of sleeve, the width of sleeve, armhole) and the summer lower garment(length, width) by school age.
Assessment of the Wearing Comfort of Clothing for the Elderly Women by EEG and ECG Analyses
Bang, Ha Yeon ; Kim, Hee Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 1010~1017
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.1010
This study examined the clothing wearing comfort of elderly women by electroencephalogram (EEG) and electrocardiogram (ECG) analyses. This study utilized 7 elderly individuals aged 65 or more. Two kinds of clothing ensemble (control and prototype) were used as experimental clothing. The control consisted of a general clothing ensemble and the prototype consisted of clothing that added an extra gap. Subjects wore the control or prototype from 9:00 to 21:30 and EEG and ECG signals were measured in the last 30 minutes. The EEG analysis showed that relative band power of a and
were higher when they wore the prototype rather than the control. The ECG analysis showed that absolute band power of HF was higher; however, absolute band power of LF and LF/HF was lower when they wore the prototype rather than the control. Subjects felt less stressful and more comfortable when they wore the prototype. The results demonstrate the necessity to develop clothing in consideration of the body changes in elderly women. It is significant that the assessment of wearing comfort was aided by the use of EEG and ECG analysis in the field of clothing and textiles.
Preparation of Conductive Leather Gloves for Operating Capacitive Touch Screen Displays
Hong, Kyung Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 1018~1023
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.1018
Smartphone is integrated into the daily lives of all types of people not even young generation. A touch screen display is a primary input device of a smart phone, a tablet computer, etc. While there are many tough technologies in existence, resistive and capacitive are dominant and currently lead the touch screen panel industry. And a capacitive touch screen panel widely used in smart phones is coated with a material that stores electrical charges. In this study, we tried to manufacture gloves produced with electro-conducting leather as a tool to operate a touch panel screen. Therefore, electrically conductive materials, Polyaniline(PANI), Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) (PEDOT), and Carbon nanotubes (CNT) were applied to the surface of leather to be used as a touching operator for capacitive touch screen panel. The leather samples were treated by simple painting method; firstly, they were painted with aqueous solution containing each of the electrically conductive materials and then dried. This cycle was repeated three times. Consequently, the treated leather samples showed electrical conductivity and reasonable working performance to the capacitive touch screen. And, PANI showed the best performance and highest electrical conductivity, and then PEDOT and, CNT in decreasing order. This is because the solubilities of PANI and PEDOT show higher than dispersibility of CNT. Thus, the concentration of conducting polymers was greater than that of CNT in the treating solutions.
Heat Processing and Dyeing Properties of Fabrics by Using Composite Fancy Yarn Containing Low Melting PET Yarn
Sung, Woo Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 14, issue 6, 2012, Pages 1024~1031
DOI : 10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.6.1024
The thermal bonding PET fabrics were produced through high temperature steaming (HTS) of low melting PET yarn as warp and composite fancy yarn containing low melting PET yarn as weft. The low melting PET yarn of sheath-core structure consisted of a regular PET in core portion and low melting PET in sheath portion. The composite fancy yarn consisted of regular PET yarn as inner part and effect part and low melting PET yarn as binding part. This study was carried out to investigate the melting behavior of thermal bonded PET fabric, the effect of HTS on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties, and dyeing properties. The melting peak of low melting PET yarn showed two melting peaks caused by sheath-core structure. Almost the entire thermal bonding of the fancy PET fabrics containing low melting PET yarn has formed at
of HTS. The tensile strength in warp and weft direction of the fancy PET fabrics slightly decreased as temperature of HTS increased. The total K/S value of the fancy PET fabrics decreased slightly to
of HTS, while increased slightly above
of HTS. The changes in the hue angle (
) of the thermal bonded fancy PET fabrics dyed with disperse dyes hardly ever happened.