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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15, Issue 6 - Dec 2013
Volume 15, Issue 5 - Oct 2013
Volume 15, Issue 4 - Aug 2013
Volume 15, Issue 3 - Jun 2013
Volume 15, Issue 2 - Apr 2013
Volume 15, Issue 1 - Feb 2013
Selecting the target year
Trend and Aesthetic Value of Slit as Open Space Shown in Contemporary Fashion - Focused on the period from 2006S/S to 2012S/S -
Kim, Sun Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 173~181
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.173
This research analyzed the expression trend about the slit which composes the open space by the visual concept and then introduced the imbedded aesthetic value in it. Based on it, this work aims at showing the evidence on the slit as a utilizing tool for various design applications and providing the basic materials in order to develop the creative design production in the fashion area in the future. Specifically, for the theoretical background in this research, the concept of slit and its chronological changes were reviewed through literature. For the empirical analysis on the slit, a total of 226 designs with its application were analyzed from collection pieces in the four major collections including Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2012S/S. As a result of analysis, types of slit appeared as a slash, opening, slit, or a mix of them. These were applied to many different items of clothing, and among which, one-piece or dress was adopted most for application. In regard to space form, perpendicularity was used most frequently. But other various forms like cross and geometrical pattern were also used as well as curve, oblique line and horizontality. As to the arrangement of slit, single type was most frequently used. However, in addition to it, other types were also applied, producing both the functionality and the decorative detail such as bilateral symmetry, free irregularity, and a combination of regular and repeated layout which makes an effect of single pattern. Aesthetic values imbedded in slit were revealed as functionality, sensuality, spatiality, and decorativeness.
A Study on the Trend Analysis of Jean`s Fashion according to Characteristics of Design
Chen, Pu ; Kim, Ae-Kyung ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 182~191
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.182
This study compares the trend analysis for characteristics of design from 2007 to 2011. According to analyzed results for each year`s jean fashion, the 2007`s aesthetic feature was a unified and simple design. From 2008 to 2010, the design features were various and rich, and features of 2011 were defined by simplicity with diversity. S/S season`s feature were more diverse and balanced than the F/W season. Particularly, washing techniques represent a distinct skill, regardless of season. An analysis of each collection showed that the Paris collection had different and diverse forms; however, it was gorgeous to enjoy the design of a young sense in Milano. London`s jean fashion was pale, light, and a dull tone. New York`s jean fashion presented a young and practical value to catch other`s eyes. There is a need to increase and increase the expectations of customer desire and the high value-added jean fashion industry. New ideas need to be developed for varieties of design and expression of techniques.
The Dyeing Culture of Royal Garments in the Late Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Soon-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 192~201
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.192
This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon`s professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.
A Study of the Development of Women`s upper Clothing based on a Traditional Korean Style using the Decorative Techniques of the Jatmulim
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 202~209
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.202
This study suggests a new women`s upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children`s Durumagi, the dancer`s or shaman`s Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women`s clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman`s sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman`s jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman`s sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman`s jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.
Effects of Appearance Interest and Demographic Characteristics on Clothing Conformity
Park, Kwang Hee ; Yoo, Hwa Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 210~218
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.210
This study examined the degree of appearance interest and clothing conformity, the impacts of appearance interest on clothing conformity, and the effects of appearance interest and demographic variables on clothing conformity. A questionnaire survey collected data from October
2011. A convenience sample was drawn from adults between the ages of 17 and 76 who lived in the Daegu and Gyeongbuk regions of South Korea. A total of 513 responses produced complete and usable questionnaires. Data were tested through factor analysis and regression analysis, using SPSS 20.0. The results of this study are as follows : First, three factors were extracted from clothing conformity (normative, informative, identifiable conformity). The appearance interest was relatively high and normative conformity was the highest level among three factors of clothing conformity. Second, appearance interest was significant predictors of clothing conformity. Third, demographic variables such as gender, marital status, age and education levels had significant effects on the relationship between appearance interest and clothing conformity.
The Effect of Luxury Fashion Brand Customer Equity Drivers on Customer Loyalty - Differences among Segmented Markets based on Purchasing Patterns -
Hwang, Yookyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 219~230
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.219
To generate future profits, luxury brands need to recognize and understand customers as individually important and analyze the impact factors that improve specific customer equity. With the growing recognition that customer equity is a key strategic asset, this study empirically investigates the effect of customer equity drivers on customer loyalty based on the study of Vogel et al.(2008) which expanded the Rust et al.(2000)`s study on customer equity. We empirically examine if the customer equity drivers have a different impact on customer loyalty. This study hypothesizes that the relative effect of customer equity drivers would be different depending on the purchasing behavior of consumers and examines the effects of them on the relationship of the drivers of customer equity and customer loyalty. We use stepwise multiple regression analysis to empirically test the relationship of value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity and customer loyalty. Relationship equity influences customer loyalty more strongly than value equity and brand equity. Customers seem to build loyalty based on the careful assessment of all costumer equity drivers (value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity). In addition, their relative impact is different depending on the purchasing behavior of consumers. A company cannot maintain all customer equity drivers at a high level with limited marketing resources; therefore, marketing investment for all customer equity drivers need to be allocated differentially depending on the purchasing behavior of consumers.
Development and Evaluation of Smart Foundation with Heating Devices
Hwang, Young-Mi ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 231~239
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.231
This research developed a smart girdle for adult women in their 20`s that has an inserted carbon weaving heater to help with relief from coldness and abdominal disease through the thermal insulation effect. A pocket of powernet fabric was attached to the inside of the girdle for the easy insertion and separation of the heating device, while the heating device was fixed to a mesh material by cotton yarn and was wrapped with elastic lining material to prevent the mechanical devices from being exposed. A set of 3 hooks was attached to the center of the back of the heating device in consideration of convenience and mobility. Whereas the switch was inserted into around the right waistband, and the battery into the inner pocket around the waist, to integrate the heating device with the girdle. The satisfaction and usability of the fabricated smart girdle was verified by having research participants wear it to evaluate the appearance change caused by the device, the inconvenience of wearing/unwearing, mobility, and the satisfactory functionality of the device. As a result, the grand mean was evaluated to be high, with appearance (4.19), mobility (4.17), and functionality (4.51) being higher than 4.00; which indicates that the heat generation function of the smart girdle is effective. It may be said that such collection and analysis of data that reflect users` opinions have value and significance in that they can be grafted onto future research on new technology as well as they contribute to taking a step forward in the rapidly increasing research of smart clothing, with the new-type clothing equipped with new function.
Characteristics of Lower-Body Shapes in Obese Women for the Improvement of Fit
Yoon, Hye Jun ; An, Jae Sang ; Yoon, Ji Won ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 240~246
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.240
Data from 540 subjects (included in the obesity group whose BMI was over 25) was selected from 2,445 subjects in the
Korean Body Size Survey. A total of 25 direct measurements were selected for the relevant literature lower body size measurement analysis, that included 9 components related to BMI, height and circumferences, 3 components related to width and thickness, 5 components related to length, 3 components related to height, and 2 other components. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis and variance analysis were executed using PASW 18.0 to analyze the data. In accordance with the factor analysis results to classify the lower body shape of overweight women in their 20s to 60s whose BMI was over 25, 4 factors were identified (lower body volume, leg volume, lower body length and leg length). A total of 4 lower body shapes of overweight women were found through cluster analysis using 4 factor scores from the factor analysis. Body Shape 1 had the largest lower body and leg volume. It was the heaviest group. Leg length was at a normal level. Body Shape 1 was 22.2% (122 subjects). Body Shape 2 had the longest legs and the smallest body shape; however, Body Shape 2 was the leg obesity group with the largest leg volume. It was 39.8% (215 subjects). Body Shape 3 had a smaller leg volume in proportion to the lower body thickness and a long lower body length. It comprised 27.8% (150 subjects). Body Shape 4 comprised 9.8% (53 subjects) with the shortest leg. Its lower body obesity was at a normal level.
Size Specifications of Females Aged between 7 and 18 for 3D Body Model Development
Choi, Young Lim ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 247~255
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.247
This study develops size sections and specifications for females 7-18 years old. The specifications will contribute to the development of precise virtual models that represent basic data for the size alteration of 3D virtual models. A total of 33 items from the
Size Korea data set were adopted and analyzed. Two representative factors (Obesity and Height Factors) were identified through a factor analysis of the 33 items. Waist circumference and stature were selected as representative variables for Obesity and Height Factors, respectively, and conducted cross tabulations between waist circumference and height for the age groups of 7-12 and 13-18 year-olds. Size sections were developed for the development of 3D models based on the results. A regression analysis then developed size specifications for each section with independent variables of waist circumference and height as well as dependent variables of reference body size. Subsequently, Obesity Factors were better explained by waist circumference and Height Factors were better explained by stature. Finally, size specifications for each section were developed.
Development of Air Force Winter Service Uniform Slacks Pattern and Automatic Pattern Drafting Program for Mass Customization
Kim, In Hwa ; Nam, Yun Ja ; Kim, Sung Min ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 256~267
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.256
This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.
Actual Wearing Conditions of Bicycle Wear
Jung, Hee-Kyeong ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 268~276
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.268
This study identifies how people use bicycle wear, complaints about bicycle wear, and functions required for bicycle riding. This survey was conducted with bicycle club members (men and women) in their twenties to sixties who ride bicycles on a regular basis. A total of 373 subjects responded to questionnaires and 326 responses were used for further data analysis. The data was analyzed by descriptive analysis, multiple response analysis, crosstabulation analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and one-way ANOVA. The results are as follow: First, the people surveyed were primarily men, young adults and middle-aged people. They ride bicycles mainly to participate in club activities, to exercise, and to spend their spare time with a well-being trend that focuses on leisure and health. Second, they often utilize bicycle wear when they ride bicycles. They are aware of bicycle wear brands. In addition, a majority have purchased bicycle wear that shows a very high awareness of bicycle wear. Third, as for complaints about bicycle wear worn when riding bicycles, a majority of people answered that the waist part of the top pulls up and they feel sore with the bottom part of the pants when riding bicycles for a long time. They also answered that it is inconvenient to put belongings in both tops and pants. Fourth, there is a high demand for safety-related functions for bicycle riding in regards to the functions required for bicycle wear. In addition, a majority of the members showed a customer awareness of functional bicycle wear and intended to purchase bicycle wear equipped with smart functions.
Assessment of the Clothing Wear Comfort for Elderly Women based on Rectal Temperature, Melatonin and Cortisol Analyses
Bang, Ha Yeon ; Kim, Hee Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 277~285
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.277
This study examines the wearing comfort of elderly women through a physiological analysis based on rectal temperature and biochemical analysis with salivary melatonin and cortisol. This study was conducted on 7 elderly women aged 65 or over. Two kinds of clothing ensemble (control and prototype) were used as experimental clothing. The control clothing was a general clothing ensemble and the prototype clothing lowered clothing pressure by adding an extra gap. The experimental schedule included daily living activities with randomly assigned experimental clothing. Rectal temperature was constantly measured every 5 minutes during the experiment and saliva samples for melatonin and cortisol were collected twice per day before and after sleep. The rectal temperature was lower for the prototype than the control throughout the experiment, and its circadian rhythm was prompt and clear in prototype. In addition, melatonin was secreted more but cortisol was secreted less when the subjects wore the prototype clothing. With these results, we assumed that regular circadian rhythm and low level of stress might be caused by wearing prototype clothing that lowered clothing pressure. The results demonstrate the necessity to develop clothing that considers body changes in elderly women.
The Extract of the Glycyrrhizin from Glycyrrhizae Radix and Antibacterial Activity of the Treated Fabrics
Lee, Young-Sook ; Jang, Jeong-Dae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 286~293
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.286
This study investigates the attachment of glycyrrhizin to fabric using an X-ray photoelectron spectrophotometer( XPS). XPS spectra analysis showed that carbon content on treated fabrics with 0.2% glycyrrhizin increased to 2.699% for silk, 2.829% for nylon, 1.505% for cotton, respectively. The results show that glycyrrhizin is absorbed on treated fabrics. The glycyrrhizin extraction method makes radix glycyrrhizae powder 10g treat the first and the second treatment with ethanol, remove impurities on
; subsequently, it is treated for 10 hours with ethanol 75% on
and lyophilizated. As the result, glycyrrhizin is extracted 1.7g in GL-I, 1.1 g in GL-II. As the result of abstracting glycyrrhizin with two methods, pure glycyrrhizin was abstracted 45.9% in GL-I, 74.9% in GL-II. GL-I, GL-II; in addition, glycyrrhizin( Japan) on TLC plate was separated in Rf 0.6. By GL-II extract method, this experiment obtained glycyrrhizin 15 g treated in a bath ratio set to 1: 100. Silk fabric was treated at
, 60 min. in, nylon fabric
, 70 min., and cotton fabric
, 80 min.; subsequently, silk, nylon, cotton fabrics showed a 99.9% antibacterial activity for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.
An Exploration according to Clothing Category for Increasing the Sustainability of Fashion and Textiles
Na, Youngjoo ; Lee, Hyunkyu ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 294~301
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.294
Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation`s happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.
Effect of Diamine Addition in NaOH Treatment Solution on Surface Characteristics of Poly (Ethylene Terephthalate) Film
Kang, In-Sook ; Bae, Hyun-Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 302~308
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.302
This study is a preliminary investigation of the influence of surface characteristics of substrates on detergency of particulate soil. The surface of PET film was modified with NaOH and NaOH+ethylene diamine on different times. The surface morphology of the film was scanned by AFM and surface energies were calculated from measured contact angles between several solutions and film based on the geometric mean and a Lewis acid base method. The surface morphology of PET film treated with NaOH and NaOH+ethylene diamine became more etched, and the surface area, surface roughness and the coefficient of friction of film increased with treatment of NaOH and NaOH+ethylene diamine. The contact angle of film treated with NaOH and NaOH+ethylene diamine decreased in water and surfactant solution; in addition, the surface energy increased was largely attributed to the increased portion on the polar surface energy of film. However, the effect of the diamine addition to the NaOH treatment solution on surface characteristics of PET film was insignificant.
Surface Properties of Artificial Suedes
Roh, Eui Kyung ; Oh, Kyung Wha ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 2, 2013, Pages 309~315
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.309
This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.