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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15, Issue 6 - Dec 2013
Volume 15, Issue 5 - Oct 2013
Volume 15, Issue 4 - Aug 2013
Volume 15, Issue 3 - Jun 2013
Volume 15, Issue 2 - Apr 2013
Volume 15, Issue 1 - Feb 2013
Selecting the target year
Scarf Design Combined with Opt Art and Geometrical Pattern of Traditional Ddeoksal
Kim, Sun Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 325~335
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.325
This work develops a motif design integrated with geometrical patterns in traditional ddeoksal and that can be applied to a scarf design so that traditional elements unique to Korean culture can be developed further for a modern application to various design fields. For the research method, literature reviews on op art and traditional ddeoksal were conducted with Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. As for the motif combination, such applications were taken as five pieces from the works of Victor Vasarely and some traditional ddeoksal shapes such as oblique line pattern, taegeuk pattern, and geometrical pattern. Abstract and geometrical images were borrowed from op art and ddeoksal for image expression. The total number of works selected was eleven. To realize the applied scarf design, a motif layout was performed with the scarf center or rim highlighted so that each design feature could be remarkable based on the motif combination. With the function of scaling, rotation, opacity control, filtering effect, the changed images were shown through motif distortion. In addition, this work applies a single combined motif to products for a possible transformation into handkerchiefs and boutique scarfs in the case of smaller sized scarfs.
The Innovative Application of Surface Texture in Fashion and Textile Design
Gong, Lin ; Shin, Jooyoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 336~346
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.336
This study focuses on `texture` as one of the most important fashion and textile design elements; in addition, it proposes various applications of it. Surface texture is indispensable in fashion and textile design that also factors heavily into innovative creations. Along with technological advances in the fashion industry, surface texture has derived many new and attractive features that provide more opportunities for designers to show various design concepts. Rather than the surface quality of fabrics, surface texture in fashion design creates its identity through a manipulation of materials- an application that tends to be primarily for visual effects without being restricted to decorative purposes. The status and significance of surface texture in various creative fields is explored and the evolution of surface texture is traced by analyzing a number of fashion design cases with representative surface textures. The latest feature of surface texture in fashion and textile design is identified to establish a new classification of surface texture with five groups and technical suggestions. This study provides a theoretical basis for this field of study and a new framework that can be employed in the development of surface textures that use innovative techniques as well as the future application of newly-developed textures.
A Study for the Improvement of the Nursery Active-wear Uniform -By Characters based on Children`s Folklore Plays-
Moon, Myeng Ok ; Lee, Jin Suk ; Um, Jung Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 347~357
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.347
The nursery active-wear uniform designs of Internet shopping malls are simple and similar; however, the latest children`s wear trends (mostly composed of training jumpers and pants) do not reflect these qualities. Children`s folklore plays (widely used in child education) have an instructive value for the emotional and intellectual development of a child. Nursery active-wear uniform designs applied to children`s folklore`s plays could be positive for the emotional development and specialized cultural education of children. We designed three nursery active-wear uniforms with three different design concepts (casual, semi-formal and sporty) regardless of sex. The main color of the three nursery active-wear uniforms was yellow. We used three different chroma and values of yellow through three design concepts: Design I of a nursery active-wear uniform (a training suit style with a good activity), Design II of a nursery active-wear uniform (a semi suit style), and Design III of a nursery active-wear uniform (a sportswear style that reflected a sport wear trend). We expressed children`s folklore plays in the pattern of a nursery active-wear uniform. The pattern was characterized as a pair of bears flying kites. This pattern was utilized in three nursery active-wear uniforms with the logo and name of the nursery. We modified the designs of active-wear nursery uniforms based on an evaluation of 33 special panels. We made three nursery active-wear uniforms for five-year olds.
Designs for Development of Bra Tops for the New Senior Generation
Lim, Hosun ; Cho, Hakyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 358~363
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.358
Due to recent changes in increased life expectancy, economic power and social development, the new senior generation (focusing on people in their fifties) represents a new market power with strong competitiveness. The new senior generation is the generation after the baby boomers, with characteristics that include a high-level of education, increased income, a high-level of consumption, increased assets, self-fulfillment desires and individuality. Demands in the senior fashion industry are expected to gradually increase and the underwear industry that targets the new senior generation is expected to grow rapidly. These demands will require product development for the new senior generation based on emotional and socio-cultural characteristics. The current new senior underwear market is under the process of R&D with a focus on body shape changes; however, there are limited studies on emotional and socio-cultural approaches. This study formulates a basic design plan for different age groups based on an analysis of the situation of bra wear (current inconveniences, demand and needs) by women in their fifties and over. Subsequently, a functional active bra top that considers activity and comfort was proposed for women in their fifties, an all-in-one foundation bra top that shapes the body was proposed for women in their sixties, and comfort bra tops that are comfortable and easy to put on and take off were proposed for women in their seventies and over.
The Development of Safety and Functional Snowboard Wear Design - Focus on the Safety Snowboard Pants for the Protection of Hip -
Kim, Mun Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 364~370
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.364
This research helps secure the safety of snow boarders in an activity that is currently recognized as a minor specific hobby. The research goal is to develop a new board wear product with intensified safety and activity through the development of a safe and convenient snowboard wear that is wearable in ordinary life. The participants consisted of 31 snowboard club members evaluated from January 12 to January 19 at Eden-valley Ski Resort and Phoenix-park Resort in Korea. The result are as follows. First, what domestic snowboard wear consumers consider design difference and brand recognition a significant priority in choosing snowboard wear versus the functionality or safety of clothes. Second, concerning the evaluation of the developed product, they recognize the necessity of safety gear; however, they demand the convenient use of a safety gear with a fixation that can be attached and detached. A unity-type board wear was developed that enables an attachment and detachment that reflects the evaluation results. In conclusion, this research showed various market possibility of board wear into sports casual wear to be able to make it a fashion product through different design and demand of mixing it with general wear rather than functionality or activity, though board wear is a professional sports wear.
The Influence of Consumer`s Relationship Benefit Perception on the Relationship output in Internet Shopping Mall
Chae, Jin Mie ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 371~380
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.371
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of consumer`s relationship benefit perception on consumer`s relationship quality and loyalty in internet shopping mall. The survey was limited to the respondents over 20 years old living in Seoul and other metropolitan areas who had purchased fashion products in internet shopping mall. Questionnaire was collected from November 1, 2011 to November 12, 2011. The structural equation model was constructed to verify hypotheses and 562 useful data were analyzed using SPSS 17.0 and AMOS 19. The results of this study were as follows: First, consumer`s relationship benefit perception was classified into economic benefit, psychological benefit, and informational benefit. Second, economic benefit and psychological benefit had a significantly positive effect on consumer`s satisfaction and trust. Also both benefit dimensions showed a stronger effect on satisfaction than on trust. Third, informational benefit showed a significantly positive effect only on trust. Finally, consumer`s satisfaction affected loyalty via trust more strongly than consumer`s satisfaction affected loyalty directly. It suggested that internet shopping mall marketers need to provide the strategic method to make consumers have a trust for the internet shopping mall.
The Effects of Internet Fashion Consumer Characteristics, Shopping Motivation, and Price Sensitivity on Negative Purchasing Behavior
Lee, Eun-Jin ; Kim, Jong-Ouk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 381~392
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.381
This study analyzed the effects of internet fashion consumer characteristics and shopping motivation on price sensitivity as well as the effect of price sensitivity on negative purchasing behavior. A survey was conducted from August 10 to September 20 in 2012 and 364 responses were used in the data analysis. The statistical analysis methods were frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The characteristics of internet fashion consumers were composed of innovation tendency, impulse buying tendency, information orientation, and variety seeking tendency. Shopping motivation was composed of convenient motivation, social motivation, hedonic motivation, product motivation, and economic motivation. The information orientation and variety seeking tendency of internet fashion consumers influenced the price search. The innovation tendency, impulse buying tendency, and variety seeking tendency of internet fashion consumers influenced the price importance. Convenient motivation, hedonic motivation, and product motivation positively affected the price search; however, social motivation negatively affected the price search. The social motivation, hedonic motivation, and economic motivation of internet fashion consumers positively affected price importance. Price search and price importance influenced the purchasing delay; in addition, price search influenced the switching intention. The results of this study provide useful information for customer management and internet shopping mall marketing strategies.
The Effect of Involvement in Smartphones on Purchase Intention in Fashion Shopping Malls based on Mobile Web Apps and PC Web Apps
Lee, Jung-Woo ; Kim, Mi Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 393~405
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.393
This study considers the effect of smartphone involvement for purchase intentions in fashion shopping malls based on mobile web apps and on PC web apps; in addition, it investigates the correlation between purchase intention in fashion shopping malls (based on activated PC web apps) and those of fashion shopping malls (based on newly created mobile web apps). The results of this study are: First, the analysis of smartphones factors showed that smartphones consist of 6 kinds of dimensions of `appearance involvement`, `time and information search involvement`, `application involvement`, `entertainment involvement`, `communication involvement`, and `transaction involvement`. Second, the higher the entertainment and transaction involvement among descriptive variables for smartphone involvement were due to the positive responses displayed towards fashion shopping mall purchases based on mobile web apps. Third, a higher application and entertainment involvement in the descriptive variables for smartphones resulted in a positive response displayed for purchases in fashion shopping malls based on PC web apps shown in a regression analysis that verified the smartphone and purchase intention relationship in fashion shopping malls based on PC web apps. Fourth, consumers with high purchase intention in the existing PC web app based fashion shopping malls were shown to have a high purchase intention in mobile web app based fashion shopping malls due to the results of a correlation analysis that analyzed the relationship between purchase intention in PC web app based fashion shopping malls and mobile web app based fashion shopping malls.
Research on the Impact of Jeju Rural Area`s Changing Funeral Ritual about Shrouds
Kwon, Sookhee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 406~413
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.406
The objective of this research is to find out status and consciousness about shrouds according to changes of Jeju`s rural funeral ritual while reviewing Jeju`s traditional shrouds. Consciousness of customs regarding tradition is much stronger in Jeju Island. Since it was said that shrouds and changes of funeral ritual have very systematic correlation according to the result of precedent researches, changes of funeral rituals of Jeju`s rural area were examined. At the same time, consciousness about traditional shrouds of Jeju people was also studied. As the result of examination through literary investigation, visits to rural homes, visits to production places of Jeju`s shrouds and interviews with grandmothers designated as human cultural assets of traditional Jeju shrouds, etc, it was found out that Jeju`s rural funeral rituals had been rapidly changed since 2000. Traditional Jeju shrouds are also disappearing. In particular, old women of Jeju have considered preparation of their own and their husbands` shrouds in advance as a virtue. However, as it gradually became more difficult to produce and prepare traditional shrouds at homes and as the space of funeral was changed from their own houses to hospitals and/or commercial funeral homes, it was found out that a ratio of people`s using general shrouds sold in market was increased and it is believed that this kind of trend will be accelerated more and more in the future.
Classification of Elderly Men`s Sole from the 2D Scanning Method
Kim, Nam Soon ; Do, Wol Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 414~422
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.414
This study identifies the foot shapes of elderly men by classifying foot types according to the shapes of sole of foot and analyzing individual characteristics. The subjects were 269 elderly men over 60 years of age. Their right feet were measured indirectly with a 2D scanner. The anthropometric measuring items consisted of 38 items that were estimated on the right foot of each subject. The 2D scan data were analyzed by various statistical methods such as factor analysis, ANOVA and cluster analysis using the statistical program SPSS 19.0. A total of 8 factors were extracted through a factor analysis and these factors represent 77.83% of total variance. The 8 factors were: ball and lateral foot protrusion, ball gradient, medial foot protrusion, anterior and posterior foot length ratio, lateral ball length, heel size, toes breadth, and foot length, that explained 77.83% of the total variance. A total of 4 clusters (as their sole type) were categorized using 8 factor scores by cluster analysis. Type 1 was classified as H-type(toes width, foot width, heel width uniform and medial malleolus and lateral malleolus almost no protrusion). Type 2 was classified as V-type(foot width and toes width, wide and heel width narrow). Type 3 was classified as A-type(foot width and heel width, wide but toes width narrow, protruded inside). Type 4 was classified as D-type(protruded outside).
A Suggestion of the Size-designation for the Underweight Women`s Tops in their 20s-30s
Lim, Ji young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 423~429
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.423
This study helps out-size consumers purchase tops and improve the fitness of unde-weight women in their 20s-30s and by the establishment of a size system. The criteria for subjects in this study were those under 18.5(
) of the BMI; subsequently, a total of 233 females were enrolled. The results were: First, the nominal size for female adult formal dress suggested by the KS standard is suggested in 20 sections. The sections for underweight women are 7, (34 women who accounted for 14.59% out of 233 in total). The cover efficiency was 2.08% (which was very low). Second, tests showed that the average difference between the reference part body size of 7 sections for underweight women in the normal size section of bust cir.- hip cir.- height, and KS standard, waist cir. among reference sizes was rather small in the case of a nominal size for long height. Therefore, there is a significant difference with size in the KS standard and a sizing system proven improper for underweight woman. Third, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different due to the size system establishment according to measurements of underweight subjects. The research findings suggest that it is necessary to understand underweight types according to bust girth and hip girth sizes that represent basic sizes as well as to design patterns that consider the underweight body shape characteristics when women`s tops are designed.
The Effect of Electron Beam Irradiation on Chemical and Morphological Properties of Hansan Ramie Fibers
Lee, Jung Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 430~436
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.430
The purpose of this study investigates the effects of electron beam(EB) irradiation on the chemical and morphological properties of Hansan ramie fiber. Hansan ramie fibers were irradiated with electron beam doses of 0, 1, 3, 5 and 10kGy. The effect of electron beam irradiation on the chemical components of fibers as well as the surface chemical and morphological properties were investigated using chemical component analysis methods based on TAPPI standards, XPS, and SEM. The results indicate that the surface layers can be removed under suitable EB irradiation doses. Alcohol-benzene extraction and lignin content increases gradually with an increase in EB irradiation and reaching a maximum at an EB dose of 3kGy, and decreases at 10kGy. The surface chemical changes measured by XPS corresponded to the chemical composition analysis results. The C1 peak and the O/C ratio decreased with the removal of the multi-layer and primary layer by EB irradiation. The SEM images show the inter-fibrillar structure etched by EB irradiation up to 5kGy. At 10kGy, the surface structure of the ramie fiber shows highly aligned and distinctive striations in a longitudinal direction. The removal of these exterior layers of the fiber was confirmed by changes in surface morphology as observed in SEM images.
Physical Properties of Aramid and Aramid/Nylon Hybrid ATY for Protective Garments relative to ATY Nozzle Diameter
Choi, La Hee ; Kim, Hyun Ah ; Kim, Seung Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 437~443
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.437
This paper investigates the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air jet textured filaments for protective garments relative to ATY nozzle diameters. Three types of para-aramids(840d, 1,000d, 1,500d) and nylon(420d) filaments were prepared; in addition, 840d aramid/420d nylon and three kinds of aramid filaments were texturized with a variation of air jet nozzle diameters(0.6, 0.75, 1 and 1.2 mm) on the AIKI air jet texturing machine. The measured physical properties of 16 specimens are as follows. The linear densities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and hybrid ATY linearly decreased with a larger nozzle diameter; in addition, the breaking strain increased with the nozzle diameter. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter from 0.6 mm to 1 mm and then decreased at a nozzle diameter of 1.2 mm (which seems to be a critical diameter). The wet and dry thermal shrinkage of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY are influenced by the nylon part of the hybrid yarns because the wet and dry thermal shrinkages of aramid ATY are less than 0.2%. The instabilities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY were not influenced by the air jet nozzle diameter; however, they increased with the linear density of ATY.
Physical Properties of Aramid and Aramid/Nylon Hybrid ATY for Protective Garments according to the Dry and Wet Texturing Conditions
Park, Mi Ra ; Kim, Hyun Ah ; Kim, Seung Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 444~451
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.444
This paper surveys the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air-jet textured yarns(ATY) for protective garments according to wet and dry texturing conditions. Aramid and nylon filaments were used to make two kinds of para-aramid ATY and four kinds of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY with dry and wet treatments. The analyzed physical properties of six specimens (made on the ATY machine) are as follows. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY decreased with the wetting and breaking strain; however, the yarn linear density of aramid and hybrid ATY increased with wetting treatment. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of the hybrid ATY increased with wetting. The stability of aramid and hybrid ATY also increased with wetting. The physical properties of core/effect type hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the core type hybrid ATY and the physical properties of nylon/aramid core/effect hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the of aramid/nylon core/effect hybrid ATY. A higher bulky and breaking strain of hybrid ATY require ATY processing conditions of nylon on the core part with wetting and aramid on the effect part. ATY processing conditions for nylon and aramid on the core part with wetting are required for a higher tenacity and modulus. ATY processing conditions of nylon and aramid on the core with no wetting are required for a low thermal shrinkage.
Performance Evaluation of Protective Clothing Materials for Welding in a Hazardous Shipbuilding Industry Work Environment
Kim, Min Young ; Bae, Hyun Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 452~460
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.452
This study conducted a performance evaluation of protective clothing materials used for welding in a hazardous shipbuilding industry work environment. The welding process was selected as the one that most requires industrial protective clothing according to work environment characteristics. Flame proofing and convection heat protection performance (HTI) in the heat transfer characteristics of protective clothing material were indicated in the order of SW1(Oxidant carbon)>SW2(silica coated Oxidant carbon)>SW4(Oxidant carbon/p-aramid)>SW3(flame proofing cotton). However, radiant heat protection performance (RHTI) and the heat transfer factor (TF) were indicated in the order of SW1>SW4>SW2>SW3 and showed different patterns from the convection heat protection performance. SW1 showed superior air permeability and water vapor permeability. The tensile strength and tear strength of welding protective clothing material were indicated in the order of SW4>SW2>SW3>SW1 and showed that a blend fabric of p-aramid was the most superior for the mechanical properties of SW4. SW1 had excellent heat transfer properties in yet met the minimum performance requirements of tensile strength proved to be inappropriate as being a material for welding protective clothing. The abrasion resistance of woven fabric proved superior compared to nonwoven fabric; however, seam strength and dimensional change both met the minimum performance requirements and indicated that all samples appeared non-hazardous. Finally, oxidant carbon/p-aramid blend fabric appeared appropriate as a protective clothing materials for welding.
Effects of the One side Hydrophilicity for Nylon/PU Water Repellent Blended Fabric Treated with Low Temperature Plasma Treatment
Ma, Jae Hyuk ; Son, Kyoung Tai ; Koo, Kang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 461~466
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.461
Synthetic fiber materials were developed due the desire of consumers for high-quality, high-performance and comfort. A high functionality of synthetic fiber can be obtained through surface treatment that can improve hydrophilic properties, color depth after dyeing and adhesion properties. These advantages create added-value. Hydrophobic properties are an important feature to create added-value (such as hydrophilic properties). One side processing is a method of imparting to contrary function on the front and rear side. In this study, fluorine-coated Nylon/PU blended fabric was treated on only one side with a low-temperature plasma treatment; subsequently, the contact angles decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. The contact angle of the untreated surface and the treated surface was different. It a showed a difference in the properties of both surfaces. Tensile strength and stiffness decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. However, plasma treatment did not significantly change the tensile strength and stiffness on both surfaces of the fabric. SEM photographs showed the surface of fluorine-coated fabric and the etching surface by using plasma treatment on the fabric. Plasma treatment was confirmed not to affect the physical properties of the fabric.
Dyeing of Flame Retardant Polyester Fabric developed by using Low-melting-point Bicomponent Filament
Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 3, 2013, Pages 467~476
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.3.467
This study investigates the dyeability and the fastness of flame retardant polyester fabric developed by a thermal bonding with a low melting component of flame retardant bicomponent filament (LMFRPC). The fabrics were prepared with flame retardant polyester filaments (FRP) as warp and blended filaments of FRP and LMFRPC as weft. The LMFRPC have a sheath and a core where the core comprises a flame retardant polyester and the sheath comprises a thermoplastic polyester with a low-melting point. The thermal bonding of fabric was conducted in a pin tenter at
for 60 seconds. Fabric dyeing was conducted with an infrared dyeing machine at various dyeing temperatures and dyeing times. The dyestuffs used in this study were CI disperse Yellow 54, Red 60 and Blue 56 of E-type dyestuff and Orange 30, Red 167 and Blue 79 of S-type dyestuff. This study investigated the morphology of thermal bonded fabric, dyeability and fastness of dyed fabric. Dyeability increased with an increased dyeing temperature. The thermal bonded area increased with the increased LMFRPC content. The dyeability of S-type dyestuff was higher than E-type dyestuff; in addition, the saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at
for E and S-type dyestuff. The fastness to washing and rubbing were excellent at a 4-5 Grade.