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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15, Issue 6 - Dec 2013
Volume 15, Issue 5 - Oct 2013
Volume 15, Issue 4 - Aug 2013
Volume 15, Issue 3 - Jun 2013
Volume 15, Issue 2 - Apr 2013
Volume 15, Issue 1 - Feb 2013
Selecting the target year
An Analysis on the Application of Functional Mask for Protection in Fashion Mask
Choi, Jung-Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 851~861
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.851
This study analyzed the fashionable characteristics of functional fashion mask types. This study reviewed the literature on masks and analyzed fashion photos found in fashion books, fashion collections and on internet fashion sites. The results were categorized into four characteristics. Integration of structure and function showed mask designs that connected to the hood and portable items. It represented the reflection of nomadic life, liberation, obscurity and the consciousness of discomfort. Signs of playfulness showed mask hybrids and animal images, the mask hybrids and humanoid images, the printing of animal characters, body parts and unusual material hybrids. It represented the liberation from a fixed identity, the loss of seriousness, the reduction of tension and the pursuit of pleasure and freedom. The duplicity of aggression and protection showed a futuristic or aggressive helmet facemask, an enclosed mask of intensive color, and the morphological hybrid of a disgusting or aggressive motif. It represented the end of human weakness, the desire of new self-expression and the longing of superhuman power. Fanciful decoration showed masks with glittery decoration, sunglasses with luxury decoration material, a medical facemask made of lace material and fanciful printing. It showed one facet of extreme consumption, the creation of new personality and value, the pursuit of high quality and a mutual coexistence of status and anonymity.
A Study on the Military Look in Contemporary Fashion - Women's fashion collections since 2010 -
Kim, Jeong-Mee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 862~873
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.862
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.
An analysis on the Deconstructed Visage in Fashion Illustration - Based on the Deconstructed Visage of Francis Bacon's Painting -
Choi, Jung-Hwa ; Choi, Yoo-Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 874~885
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.874
This study analyzes the visage in fashion illustration based on the deconstructed visage of Francis Bacon's paintings as well as analyzes fashion illustration works since 2000. The deconstructed visages in Francis Bacon's paintings are classified as blurring, elimination, distortion and division. The expressive methods and meanings in fashion illustration (according to categorization) are as follow. Blurring shows an ambiguous visage organ by the sweeping of the brush, removal of a boundary among the visage, body and clothes, gradation of organic line like visage shapes, stretching of the a plat combined to visage and fragmentation of visage. It represents an uncertainty of the fashion theme and image interpretation, impossibility of figure by ambiguity, fantastic effect and the induction of the uncanny. Elimination shows the background color's painting of a photo-montage, overlap of a cutting of visage's part and background of a plat, elimination of the visage and the elimination of eyes, nose or lips. It represents a weakened identity, the reinforcement of anonymity, creation of a violent image, and uncanny unfamiliarity. Distortion shows a distorted visage by free drawing, and unconscious drawing line, fluid digital body, combination of an unconscious curve, and an eccentric combination of the accidental. It represents the relief of specialty about realistic existence, hypothetical immateriality and fantasy. Division shows overlapped visages with different angles, the weird combination of a plural visage and different species and a plural breakaway of direction, and the position of several organs. It represents motion by power's trace, non-territory of species, ambiguity and uncertainty and the uncanny.
A Study on the Court Dance Garments of the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu
Nam, Hoo Sun ; Kim, Soon Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 886~898
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.886
This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.
A Study on Curricula for Training of Specialist in Textile Design
Lee, Hyun Jin ; Choo, Tae Gue ; Ku, Yang Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 899~911
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.899
This study investigated the current curricula for the training of textile design specialists. In-depth interviews were conducted with 6 practitioners working in the textile design industry; subsequently, the curricula offered by 20 textile design-related departments at 4-year and 2-year colleges in Korea were used for the data analysis. The results of this study were: First, the problems of textile design education were (1) a limited understanding of commercial designs, (2) an education system concentrated on pattern designs, (3) limited creativity and design expression capacity, (4) limited practical ability and the analysis of collection. Second, most textile design departments at Korean colleges were located in the Seoul/Gyeonggi district and Gyeongbuk/Gyeongnam district. Third, textile material and imagination/expression subjects were a limited part of the curricula; subsequently, a long-term and systematic education system (by college year) was required for the use of basic education subjects. Fourth, there was a shortage of practical subjects in college education despite the perception of commercial designs; in addition, a professional design education (by material and use) were an important part of practical business.
Appearance Orientation and Appearance Management Behaviors in relation to Body Mass Index and Demographic Variables
Park, Kwang Hee ; Yoo, Hwa Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 912~922
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.912
This study examined the differences in appearance orientation and appearance management behavior in groups (classified by the body mass index) as well as explored the differences in each of demographic variables. Data were collected from 513 respondents from the city of Daegu as well as Gyeongbuk province. Collected data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, ANOVA, and Duncan tests. The results showed that 14.3% of the respondents were underweight, 60.0% normal, and 25.7% overweight according to BMI. The appearance orientation of the respondents was revealed to be high. Skin care was the most popular appearance management behavior, followed by make-up, clothing selection, hair care and weight training. Due to appearance orientation by body type, the appearance orientation for the underweight was the highest followed by normal and overweight. There were significant differences in skin care, make-up, clothing selection, hair care among the three groups in appearance management behavior; however, no differences in weight training. Generally, appearance management behavior of the underweight was the highest, followed by the normal and the overweight. In addition, there were significant group differences in appearance orientation and appearance management behavior according to demographic variables. This study contributes basic information to the field of appearance management behavior research and beauty industry marketing strategy through a better understanding of the relationships of BMI, appearance orientation, and appearance management behavior.
Study on Appearance-oriented, Appearance Management Behavior according to the types of Masculinity
Lee, Hyun-Ok ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 923~931
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.923
The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of the type of masculinity on appearance-oriented and appearance management behavior. Questionnaires were administered to 201 males 20s to 50s living in Daegu. The SPSS 20.0 package was utilized for data analysis which included frequency analysis, Cronbach's
, factor analysis, cluster analysis, regression analysis, t-test and logistic regression. First, factor analysis in a appearance management behavior and the type of masculinity, were cluster analysis in appearance-oriented. Were used to analyze the problem of the study by classified five factors and two groups. The results of this study were as follows: First, the masculinity of Retro sexual, Metro sexual, Techno sexual showed a negative influence on appearance-oriented. Second, the masculinity had a influence on appearance management behavior. M-ness showed a negative influence on skin care, Metro sexual showed a positive influence on skin care, hair/fashion, cosmetics, plastic surgery. And Retro sexual showed a influence on skin care, positive influence on hair/fashion, cosmetics. Techno sexual showed a positive influence on body management, skin care, hair/fashion. Uber sexual showed a positive influence on body management, cosmetics of appearance management. Third, the appearance-oriented had a differences on body management, hair/fashion, cosmetics, plastic surgery of appearance management behavior.
The Effect of the Education Program for Ethical Consumption of Clothing on Adolescents' Ethical Consumption Consciousness of Clothing, General Ethical Consumption Knowledge and Behaviors
Jeon, Miyeon ; Jung, Hye Jung ; Oh, Kyung Wha ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 932~941
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.932
This study aims to investigate the impacts on adolescents of the application of the education program for ethical consumption related to clothing in terms of their clothing-related ethical consumption consciousness, and in terms of their general ethical consumption knowledge and behaviors. Additionally, the effects of clothing-related ethical consumption consciousness and general ethical consumption knowledge on general ethical consumption behavior were examined. The program for education in ethical consumption related to clothing for adolescents was developed and applied, two surveys for the pre-post test design were conducted with high school female and male students, and a total of 158 responses were analyzed. The results of this study were as follows. 1) The results of the factor analysis and the reliability test on ethical consumption consciousness for high school students clearly showed factorial structures including Pro-environmentalism, Animal welfare, Social responsibility, and Recycling. 2) Analysis of the differences in the means of ethical consumption consciousness, knowledge, and behaviors of respondents between pre-test and post-test revealed that posttest means of all research variables after application of the education program were higher than pre-test means. 3) The ethical consumption knowledge had important medicating roles in the relationship between ethical consumption consciousness with regard to clothing and general ethical consumption behaviors. Overall, the study provides empirical evidence to support the notion that there is a need for applying an ethical consumption education program to lead adolescents to consume ethically.
A Study on the Purchasing Practice and Size Fitness of Ready-made Clothes for Male College Students according to Body Types
Lim, Jiyoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 942~949
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.942
This study was performed to investigate purchasing practice and size satisfaction in order to offer basic data to establish marketing strategy and produce ready-made clothes for the male college students according to their body type. For data analysis, crosstabs, factor analysis and one-way ANOVA were used. Results were as follows; first, this study considered the somatotype distribution of male college students. The results showed that inverted triangle -shaped torso was the ideal somatotype in all the classified four actual somatotypes. Second, people in standard body types significantly considered price and appearance such as design, color, pattern and price while people in triangle-shaped torso placed the most importance in the practicality and wearability. People with inverted triangle-shaped torso was found to significantly consider the perceptual quality such as brand, a/s and fashion. Third, this study considered the wearing satisfaction of ready-to-wear. The respondents placed more emphasis on the practicality and wearability as their actual somatotypes were not ideal for them. Fourth, the examination of the difference in size fitness depending on clothing by somatotype when wearing ready-to-wear showed that breast on the top was small when wearing it in the remaining somatotypes except for standard somatotype. The upper body showed better size fitness in triangle-shaped torso. There is a difference in fitness according to somatotypes classified by the form factors even though they have the same body mass index.
A Study on Pattern Development of Men's Slim-fit Dress Shirt - Focus on the 25-35 aged men -
Kim, Dong-Hyun ; Jang, Jeong-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 950~962
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.950
The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.
Development of Torso Pattern for Underweight Female in their 20s~30s - Using Clo 3D program -
Lim, Jiyoung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 963~970
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.963
The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.
Teens and College Students' Purchasing Decision Factors of Denim Jeans In the United States
Hwang Shin, Su-Jeong ; Fowler, Deborah ; Lee, Jinhee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 971~976
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.971
This study provides insight into current social media influences and purchasing power of the young generation in that the size of both of these demographic groups will impact the apparel companies and retail market for the predictable future Denim apparel companies are aware of the discretionary spending power of the Y and Z Generations. The characteristics of current teens are so similar to college-age individuals in that they have grown up with digital technology and they prefer to communicate via social networking sites. Retailers have utilized these social media platforms in order to capture the attention of the generations. Traditionally marketing campaigns have differentiated between teens and the college-age population. However, the teens actually have larger spending power and more discretionary income. A survey consisted of 32 questions pertaining to Internet media influences, influence of people, and decision factors on decisionmaking related to purchasing selection. A random sampling of 163 females responded to a set of questionnaires. Teens, like college students desire to make their own decisions when they select and purchase denim jeans. Overall 40% of them wanted to make their own decisions when purchasing their jeans, however, a significant number are influenced by their friend's opinions (34%) and the opinions of family members (15%). However, celebrities (10%) had the least influence on their decisions. Teens, like colleges students make decisions based on the same decision factors: fit (63%), cost (23%), brand (10%) and color (2%). The most important factor in determining preference was "fit".
Classification of Sole Types for Female High School Students by 2D scan data
Lee, Jeong-Eun ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 977~984
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.977
This study classified the type of sole for female high school students and analyzed the characteristics of each type by the shape of the sole (plantar view) using 2D scan data. The data were collected from a foot anthropometry of 310 female high school students in Gwangju and Jeollanam-do. Left feet and right feet were measured indirectly by using flatbed scanner. The sole anthropometric measurements consisted of 24 items. The results of the investigation into the differences between left and right feet soles by the 2D measurements data indicated that there was no significant statistical differences in the length of items. The left sole had higher values than right sole in the width items and angle items; however, the lateral side of the right feet projected to the outside more often than left feet. In analyzing foot sole of female high school students, the shapes of sole were classified into three types. Type 1(41.94%), Type 2(36.77%), Type 3(21.29%). The most characteristic sole type for female high school students was Type 1. Type 1 referred to a narrow foot width with little or no curvature of the toe. Type 2 represented the longest foot, with foot width shown as a spacious and distinctive feature in width at the medial area of the foot. Type 3 represented the shortest and widest of ball width, gathered inside toe 5, and lateral side as the most projected among the three types.
The Effects of Annealing Temperature on The Physical Properties and Fine Structure of Poly(trimethylene terephthalate)(PTT) Fibers
Jeong, Kyung Hui ; Lee, Eon Pil ; Lee, Jae Ho ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 985~992
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.985
Polytrimethylene terephthalate(PTT) offers several advantageous properties such as good tensile strength, uniformity, stiffness, toughness, UV stability, resilience, stain resistance, outstanding elastic recovery, and dyeability. The effects of annealing temperature on physical properties and the structure of PTT filaments and yarn were investigated by measuring wide-angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD), density, optical birefringence, dynamic visco elasticity, and tensile testing. The intensity of maximum tan
decreased and the temperature of maximum tan
shifted to a higher temperature as the annealing temperature of filaments increased; however, it shifted to a lower temperature when the annealing temperature exceeded
. In addition, crystallinity, density and D-spacing of (010) crystal face increased as the annealing temperature increased. Optical birefringence and specific stress were almost constant up to
and then decreased above
. The shrinkage of PTT filament is 0 in boiling water when annealed above
; consequently, the use of annealed fiber above
can remove thermal instability when dyeing PTT fiber. In the case of yarns, the thermal stability and physical properties of yarns showed the best effect when the ply number is less than 5, twist number is less than 400tpm, and the annealing time is 20minutes.
The Analysis of the Sweating Rate, Skin Temperature on the Upper Body and Subjective Sensations
Kim, Seong-Suk ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 993~999
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.993
This study aimed to measure the amount of sweating on 12 parts of the upper body using absorption fabric and analyze subjective sensations. The study was conducted with 9 male subjects in climate chamber controled at
RH. The result was that sweating amount of the upper back part was significantly more than upper front part. We assumed that forced convection flow cased by exercise decreased the sweating rate in the front. The skin temperature of upper front body rapidly decreased as soon as exercise starts and gradually increased with cessation of exercise. On the other hand, the skin temperature of palm increased with exercise and showed continuous increasing even exercise stopping all the experimental period. This is caused by thermoregulatory responses through vasodilatation on the peripheral area. Subjective sensations, such as thermal sensation, wet sensation, and thermal comfort showed the highest score at the time of exercise stop. This means the subjects felt more hot, wet, and uncomfortable after exercise stopped. Bur after wiping of sweat, subjective sensation scores were recovered rapidly. The present study has provided more detailed information on the upper body sweat distribution than previously available, which can be used in clothing design, thermo-physiological modeling, and thermal manikin design. We also think that results of the present study will play an important role in making the sweat distribution map.
An analysis on the Fit Preferences of Breeches using 3D Lower Body Scan data
Kang, Mi-Jung ; Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 1000~1009
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.1000
Well-fitting riding breeches provide a comfortable ride. Horse-riding breeches should fit the lower body with patches located on the inside of hip and knees to prevent tears and slips. This study provides information about the fit of women's breeches using 3D human body scan data wearing commercially available two breeches according to posture. To get information about breeches fit, we measured the angle of waist line, the length, and the area of the breeches fit on four 20's women. This research showed the problem which was down for waist back line in the case of the horseback riding pose. The back waistline of the riding breeches should be raised compared to the front waistline; subsequently, an increased waistline angle results in less back waistline decrease. The breeches have plenty of length from back waist to crotch so the breech fit can be improved. The thigh circumference increased when riding in the front; therefore, good elasticity of the weft direction of the fabric is recommended. The length increase and the peripheral increase of the front knee significantly increased the surface area of the knee; consequently, knee patch material should be a two-way elastic fabric in all directions to enhance comfort according to riding motion.
Analysis of Image Similarity Index of Woven Fabrics and Virtual Fabrics - Application of Textile Design CAD System and Shuttle Loom -
Yoon, Jung-Won ; Kim, Jong-Jun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 15, issue 6, 2013, Pages 1010~1017
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.1010
Current global textiles and fashion industries have gradually shifted focus to high value-added, high sensibility, and multi-functional products based on new human-friendliness and sustainable growth technologies. Textile design CAD systems have been developed in conjunction with computer hardware and software sector advances. This study compares the patterns or images of actual woven fabrics and virtual fabrics prepared with a textile design CAD system. In this study, several weave structures (such as fancy yarn weave and patterns) were prepared with a shuttle loom. The woven textile images were taken using a CCD camera. The same weave structure data and yarn data were fed into a textile design CAD system in order to simulate fabric images as similarly as possible. Similarity Index analysis methods allowed for an analysis of the index between the actual fabric specimen and the simulated image of the corresponding fabric. The results showed that repeated small pattern weaves provide superior similarity index values than those of a fancy yarn weave that indicate some irregularities due to fancy yarn attributes. A Complex Wavelet Structural Similarity(CW-SSIM) index resulted in a better index than other methods such as Multi-Scale(MS) SSIM, and Feature Similarity(FS) SSIM, across fabric specimen images. A correlation analysis of the similarity index based on an image analysis and a similarity evaluation by panel members was also implemented.