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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 6 - Dec 2014
Volume 16, Issue 5 - Oct 2014
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Aug 2014
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Jun 2014
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Apr 2014
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 2014
Selecting the target year
Development of T-shirt designs with a Busan Cultural Identity
Kim, Young-Soon ; Koo, Young-Seok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 185~195
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.185
This study is to develop marine fashion items for various marine leisure activities based on the identity of Busan. Motifs from the fireworks festival and image colors of Busan are introduced for the items. A prototype design to express uniqueness and characteristics of fireworks was produced with a line combination among design modeling factors and applied to T-shirt item for comfort use in the marine leisure activity and daily life. T-shirt is one of fashion items for a message communication due to a unique modeling which can be used an excellent advertising item for the culturel identity and image of Busan. Designs were produced with the characteristics of fireworks in which circular shapes of a chrysanthemum, ring, and peony designates as motif 1, 2, 3 as well as linear shape of Niagara, fan shape, and tiger-tail as motif 4, 5, and 6. These designs were located on the front, central chest, and left chest in the T-shirts then analyzed by major students in the course of master and doctor of clothing and textiles with statistical methods. A design with new coloring preferred than the design of a symbolic construction, and circular design on the front and linear design on the left chest were preferred in the results. Prototypes were produced with peony and tiger-tail design which show a high corelation between circular and linear shape, and coloring as well as high purchasing needs. This study results will expect to use for the development of advertising items for the various events of Busan based on the textile design and fashion items with the identity of Busan.
Expression Types and Aesthetic Characteristics of Animal Sculptures Art-pieces by Billie Achilleos in Art Collaboration with Louis Vuitton
Kim, Jang Hyeon ; Jun, Yuh-Sun ; Kim, Young Sam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 196~207
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.196
This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.
Impact of Online Communities' Characteristic on Community Trust and Information Acceptance - Focus on Online Wedding Communities for Unmarried Females in their 20s and 30s -
Lee, Eun Jin ; Choo, Ho Jung ; Lee, Mi Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 208~217
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.208
This study focuses on analyzing a subset of consumer activities (especially social medium) in their wedding preparation. The focus of this study is on wedding online communities and understanding the impact of communities on selective behavior for information-acceptance. Data was compiled based on female consumers in their 20s and 30s who actively participate in online community forums. It included female consumers preparing for their weddings and individuals interested in weddings. A total of 211 questionnaires were collected from January
in 2012. The online communities were identified from Naver, Yahoo, and online search portals; subsequently, they were rank-sorted based on number of members, visitors, and forum posts. We identified four different characteristic based on the findings from the analysis of on-line wedding communities. The characteristic of these communities were divided into sharing experience, functionality of the webpage, informativeness, and interactivity; consequently, use of these online communities is based on trust and significant personal relationships between the members online. Out of the four different community characteristics, sharing experience was found to have a greater impact for the selective behavior of wedding dresses and information- acceptance than the functionality of the webpage, interactivity, and informativeness. We conclude that trust in information provided by members with marriage process experience is the foremost important factor in the behavior of individual consumers wit iexplore.exe -extoff hout marriage process experience. Therefore, the impact of these online communities catering to would-be brides is based on the trust of posters and how well it is articulated.
The Effect of Collage Fashion Illustration Program on Improving Self-image
Choi, Jung-Hee ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 218~227
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.218
In this study, we ran a collage fashion illustration program. We used in depth personal interviews to find if there are any change in self-image by psychologically analyzing the features of self-images expressed in the pieces of fashion illustration. The total number of objects were five females students majoring in fashion design in Busan. They were hoping to have a psychology consultation to resolve their concerns about the future, family affairs, appearance, and careers. Collage fashion illustration program was used as a experimental tool to find the psychological features shown in the formats and content of collage fashion illustration. We then figure out how pre and post diagnosis were different from each other in terms of ego-identity and DAP. As a result, the formats in collage fashion illustration are related to the self images such as psychological energy, incompetency, suppression, and tendency of self-centered. Also, the contents of the fashion expression are related to the self-images such as dependency, avoidance, wariness, and self-regard. All of the participants have improved self-regard and active action due to improvements in subjectivity, initiative, and goal orientation. Therefore, they could change from pessimistic self-images to optimistic ones.
A Study on the Fashion Attitudes of Adolescents and the Parents of Adolescents : Developing School Uniforms and Fashion Items
Choo, Sun-Hyung ; Yoon, Hye-Jun ; Ahn, Jae-Sang ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 228~234
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.228
The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in fashion attitudes between adolescents and the parents of adolescents. 562 adolescents and 163 parents' responses in South Korea are used for the analysis. Survey questionnaires specifically designed for the adolescents and parents are used to compare the differences of the two populations. The results suggest that adolescents and parents in South Korea have different evaluation values for adolescents' fashion goods and school uniforms. The Adolescents placed a premium on 'Comfort' and 'Design' for fashion goods and school uniforms. However, the parents placed a premium on 'Practicality' and 'Price' values for fashion goods and school uniforms. The school uniform items which were most accepted in Korean middle and high schools need the change in composition of items for four seasons. In purchasing behavior, the adolescents answered that they have more than one item of preferred fashion brand. The Korean adolescents prefer famous sportswear brand like Nike, Adidas and etc. The fashion market for adolescents in Korea is closely related with the parents in shopping behaviors. The comparison of the fashion attitude between parents and their children is more practical method for developing the adolescents' fashion items and young fashion market.
The Influence of Visual Merchandising Congruity Perception on Brand Attitude and Purchase Intention: Focusing on Mediation Effect of Perceived Risk
Park, Hyun Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 235~244
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.235
This study investigates the effect of visual merchandising congruity perception on brand attitude and purchase intention. In addition, this study examines the mediating role of perceived risk in the process. Four retail fashion brands with classic image were selected in the previous research to avoid the influence of different brand images. Questionnaires were distributed to 200 customers leaving the four fashion retail stores which were chosen by the previous research. A total of 167 completed questionnaires were analyzed using SPSS 18.0 and AMOS 7.0 statistical packages. The results were summarized as follows. First, visual merchandising congruity perception positively affected brand attitude. This result supports the match-up hypothesis. Second, brand attitude positively influenced purchase intention. Third, visual merchandising congruity perception did not directly affect purchase intention. Visual merchandising congruity perception indirectly influenced purchase intention by mediating brand attitude; however, it did not directly influence purchase intention. Therefore, the strategic approaches to enhance favorable brand attitude through visual merchandising congruity perception should be tried. Fourth, visual merchandising congruity perception negatively affected perceived risk. Fifth, perceived risk negatively affected brand attitude. Sixth, visual merchandising congruity perception affected brand attitude by mediating perceived risk. Therefore, it is needed to devise the visual merchandising strategy that lowers the perceived risk in order to make a positive brand attitude.
A Study on the Appearance Care Behaviors, Clothing Selection Behaviors and Clothing Design Preference of 20-30's Korean Men by the Level of Grooming
Kim, Chil Soon ; Park, Mi Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 245~254
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.245
The purpose of this study was to describe 20's to 30's men's fashion lifestyle and develop clusters in grooming related variables. We also tried to interpret profile of clusters, and determine the difference between different level of grooming clusters in appearance care behaviors, and clothing behaviors such as clothing selection, preference of clothing image and design in men's wear. Data was obtained using the survey methods by convenience sampling. Frequency analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, chi-square test, and t-test were used for analysis using SPSS 18.0. The result of factor analysis of men's lifestyle show that 5 factors are extracted. Two different clusters were formed after the K-means cluster analysis. We realized that the level of grooming activity is significantly associated with the young men's major expenditure item, and beauty/care items, and the reason for exercise. The level of grooming was strongly associated with clothing selection behaviors. In addition, there is a significant difference in preferred image between two different grooming groups. In the feminine image, HG group favored more than LG group. The preferred design was associated with the degree of grooming as well. Unique and stylish top and bottom styles such as cargo, hiphop, and boots cut were favored more by HG group than LG group. We suggest that we can do market segmentation by the degree of the grooming activity, considering the current men's taste and trend to extend market share.
Development of Torso Pattern with Princess-line for Each body Type of Middle Aged Women
Jang, Moon-Hee ; Yang, Chung-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 255~265
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.255
This study developed and proposed a pattern that can fit the body and compensate for the defects of the body type by applying shoulder princess line to the torso pattern and including formative characteristics of each object on the study of body shape's change in 40-59 year old middle aged women. The results of this study are as follows; First, according to the analysis of 'Size Korea 2010' such as average, standard deviation, minimum value, and maximum value of 48 items, women showed increase in most of the items except height as they became aged. Second, factor analysis was made to understand the shape component factors of middle aged women and to use them for the body type classification. Third, cluster analysis was made according to the shape of front and sides which should be considered in pattern production based on the factor analysis results, and the body type with the measurement values most similar to the average of direct measurement of 'Size Korea 2010' was set as standard. Fourth, in designing torso patterns through the
wearing experiments according to the body type, body shapes such as Chest Circumference, Waist Circumference, Hip Circumference, and Waist Back Length were considered in pattern design, goodness-of-fit was enhanced with difference in margin according to body type and different margins in front and back, and fitting satisfaction was improved by applying princess line.
A Comparison on the Reproducibility of Parametric Bodies Used in the Virtual Garment System
Choi, Hee Eun ; Nam, Yun Ja ; Kim, Hye Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 266~274
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.266
Parametric bodies reproduce the actual shape of human body parts and should be convenient for general users to change size to judge the visual fit of clothes on-line. In this study, three parametric bodies(i.e. I, C, D ) were compared to verify the accuracy of the provided body dimensions and reproducibility to a target model. To compare reproducibility, the 20s female standard virtual model developed for an apparel industry by Korean agency for technology and standards is used. The investigation of existing parameters showed that the numbers and kinds of parameters provided by each program were different with some errors in notation; in addition, some of virtual body dimensions went beyond the maximum allowable error. The result of changing each parametric body to the 20s female standard body showed that D, C, I in order produced better reproducibility for body dimensions. There were different levels of protrusion and concavity in the virtual cross sections and virtual longitudinal sections despite the small differences in body dimensions and cross sectional areas; in addition, some parametric body was not bilateral symmetry. The results of this study can be used as basic information in the standardization of a virtual model used in a virtual garment program.
Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper in Their 30's Part 1 - Focusing on four-panel jacket sloper -
Kim, Myoung-Ok ; Suh, Mi-A ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 275~284
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.275
This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.
Characteristics of Clothing Purchase Behavior in Korean Consumers of Living in America - Focusing on the Aspect of Size -
Choi, Jinhee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 285~292
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.285
The purpose of this research is to suggest data available for being conducive to establishing a marketing strategy such as size of domestic clothing in global brand and producing a product of increasing consumers' satisfaction with the fit based on this research. A total of 177 questionnaires obtained from South Koreans in their 20s~50s who dwell in the state of North Carolina in America. The results follow; first, what there is significant difference in clothing purchase behavior of Koreans living according to income, duration of residence. Second, the reason for preferring Korean clothing according to educational level was the highest in the ratio of the response as saying of being 'size' with a decrease in the item of 'design'. This was because the higher in age and educational level leads to the more rise in importance of size according to a change in body type. Third, the outcome of evaluation on the fit by body part in American clothing was the largest in the response as saying of being 'similar' in the items of chest, waist, neck, arm, wrist circumference and crotch length.
Relationship of TBL Component in Corporate Sustainable Management of Fashion Company with Company Evaluation and Brand Image
Na, Dongkyu ; Lee, Jeongwon ; Na, Youngjoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 293~300
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.293
Fashion companies confront to environmental problem and resource depletion and have to consider 'sustainability' into their management. Corporate sustainable management of company is explained as the model of Triple Bottom Line which is composed of economic, social and environmental elements, thus we wanted to adapt this model to the case of fashion companies and the purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship among the TBL elements which contain the economic, social and environmental responsibility, the evaluation on fashion company including the reliability, reciprocality and reputation of company, and the evaluation of brand image. We conducted the survey of questionnaire about 300 people in their 20's and performed statistical analysis. As a result, the elements of corporate sustainable management in fashion company are related to the company evaluation, and again company evaluation is correlated to the evaluation of brand image. Economic responsibility of fashion company is related with the reliability of company evaluation, social responsibility of fashion company with the reciprocality and reputation of company evaluation, and environmental responsibility is deeply related with reciprocality of fashion company's evaluation. The results of this study revealed the importance of corporate sustainable management of fashion companies, and the relationships in fashion industry are stronger than in other industry.
Image, improvements, and wear comfort of hiking gear of adults in their 40s and 50s
Yoo, Hwasook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 301~311
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.301
This study finds information about the image and improvements of hiking gear and examines the influence of heat moisture, psychology, tactile sensation, and mobility/pressure related properties on wear comfort. The relationships of the four related properties and personal characteristics (such as sex, age, BMI and sensitivity) were also checked. Questionnaires were distributed to 400 people in their 40s and 50s; subsequently, 260 were used for data analysis. The questionnaires were comprised of questions about the general hiking characteristics, images and improvements in hiking gear, influence of the four properties on wear comfort, and demographic characteristics. Data were analyzed by frequency analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA, T-test using SPSS 21 IBM for Windows. The results of this study are as follows. It was shown that people in their 40s and 50s usually went hiking two to four hours with friends or family once to three times a month. Jacket had the largest number of wearing frequency, followed by pants, t-shirts, and inner wear. Consumers' images of hiking gear were positive and the demands for improvements in hiking gear were price, unique design, and vivid color. The order of influence of the four properties on wear comfort was heat moisture, mobility/pressure, tactile sensation, and psychology related properties. The four properties of wear comfort were not influenced significantly by consumer sex, age, BMI, and sensibility.
Handle analysis of Cosmetic Textiles and its Correlation with Subjective haracteristics -Focus on puff textile-
Jung, Cheul Sun ; Koo, Young Seok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 312~318
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.312
This study examined the correlation between a handle evaluation of cosmetic puff textile and a sensory evaluation. The KES-F system was used to analyze the main mechanical factors for the handle evaluation and a statistical method was used for the sensory evaluation. The results revealed different mechanical properties and handle values of the tested cosmetic puff textiles. A material type and structure of the cosmetic textile affected the handle property of the material which is the most important factor for a cosmetic purpose. Particularly, the physical properties of textile material are likely to be important factors for the sensory property of cosmetic material. In addition, the sensory evaluation also revealed different sensory characteristics of the cosmetic efficiency according to the cosmetic puff textile. No close relationship was observed between the mechanical properties and sensory evaluation on the cosmetic puff textiles. The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic efficiency is not only decided by the physical and mechanical characteristics of the cosmetic textile material. Overall, when using textiles used for the cosmetic purposes, it is important to consider not only the proper mechanical properties of the textiles but also the use and sensory satisfaction. Development and selection of the cosmetic textiles should be focused on both the material function and consumer satisfaction.
Fabrication and Characteristics of Chitosan Non-woven Fabric developed using only water as plasticizer
Lee, Shin-Hee ; Hsieh, You-Lo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 319~325
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.319
This article describes a method for producing chitosan non-woven fabrics by just hot pressing without the use of a binder. A study has been made of the wet spinning of chitosan fiber. The fibers were rinsed thoroughly in running water and chopped wet into staples of with a length of approximately 5-10 mm. The chopped chitosan staples were dispersed uniformly in water and fabricated using a non-woven making machine. This study examined the formation and the characteristics of chitosan non-woven fabrics manufactured by hot pressing without the use of a binder. The effects of the non-woven fabrication conditions on the thermal, morphological, structural, and physical properties of chitosan non-woven fabric with and without water as a plasticizer were studied. The temperature of the exothermic peak, decomposition of chitosan fibers increased with increasing heating rate. Water in the chitosan fiber effectively plasticized the chitosan fiber. The thermal bonded structure of the wet chitosan fiber with water as a plasticizer was clearly found in many parts of the non-woven fabric at a fabrication temperature of
. The intensity and profile of the (100) plane(
) and (040) plane(
) in the chitosan non-woven fabric decreases and became smooth in the non-woven fabric formation by melting.
Preparation of Rayon Filament based Woven Fabric and PCM Treatment for Developing Cool Touch Summer Clothing Material
Hong, Kyung Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 326~332
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.326
To develop cool touch feeling fabrics for summer clothing material, it was manufactured several compositions of woven fabrics, having rayon multi-filament yarn (non-twisted) as warp and various kinds of yarn, such as viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (twisted), tencel
spun yarn, PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn, and PET based rayon-like yarn, as weft. After preparing the fabrics, basic properties of the fabrics were investigated, such as air-permeability, tensile strength, absorption rate, drying rate, etc. Also, surface warm / cool sensations of the woven fabrics were assessed by Qmax Warm / Cool Touch Tester. It was observed that the fabrics composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn (weft) showed excellent surface cool touch sensation-the highest Qmax value. This is because the fabric having flat shaped PET high absorbance quick dry filament shows the largest contact area with Qmax measuring plate. And, the fabric also showed superior high absorbance and quick dry property as expected. In addition, we treated phase change material (PCM) on the surface of the fabric composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn(weft) to improve the cool touch feeling. However, the surface cool touch feeling was impaired by resin treated with PCM during the finishing process.
Effects of Sodium Sulfate and Surfactants on Papain Treatment of Wool Fabrics
Kim, In Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 2, 2014, Pages 333~338
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.333
This study identifies the effects of sodium sulfate and surfactants in the papain treatment of wool fabrics using L-cysteine and EDTA as activators. The research method involves the use of 2% L-cysteine and 7% EDTA as activators at optimal conditions, papain treatment of wool fabrics with the joint use of sodium sulfates and surfactants, and measurements of the weight loss rate, tensile strength, and whiteness. Results showed that for both 2% L-cysteine and 7% EDTA, the maximum papain activity appeared at 0.5% sodium sulfate concentration. In both cases, the papain activity was enhanced at sodium sulfate concentrations lower than 0.5%. In contrast, the papain activity declined at sodium sulfate concentrations higher than 0.5%. The joint use of EDTA with 0.5% sodium sulfate was proven to be very effective in improving the papain activity. The joint use of 2% L-cysteine with 0.5% sodium sulfate appeared slightly effective in improving the activity but resulted in excessive decrease in the tensile strength and whiteness, compared to improvement in the activity. The joint use of surfactants, in the case of L-cysteine, interrupted the papain activity and decreased the tensile strength regardless of the surfactant type and concentration. In the case of EDTA, however, the joint use with 0.1-5% non-ionic surfactants, 0.1-0.5% anionic surfactants, and 0.1% cationic surfactant appeared to improve the papain activity. The maximum papain activity was observed when 0.1% of surfactant was used, regardless of the surfactant type. The nonionic surfactant was the most effective in improving the papain activity.