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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 16, Issue 6 - Dec 2014
Volume 16, Issue 5 - Oct 2014
Volume 16, Issue 4 - Aug 2014
Volume 16, Issue 3 - Jun 2014
Volume 16, Issue 2 - Apr 2014
Volume 16, Issue 1 - Feb 2014
Selecting the target year
New Paradigm of Apparel and Sewing Industry seen through Gaeseong Industrial Complex
Kim, Jung Hoi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 347~353
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.347
The purpose of this research was to present the possibility of an alternative production base for clothing business of South Korea through the analysis about textile/clothing industry production activities in the Gaeseong industrial complex. It is necessary for the Gaeseong industrial complex to cope with the issue about FTA and country of origin, manpower supply and demand, paying wages and labor productivity, the exclusive industrial complex of clothing. The Country of Origin on imports and exports tells the country of manufacture or production, where the product comes from. Rules of Origin are the special regulations to determine the country of origin of a product and exist in the forms of international law, legislation, precedent and administrative decisions. But the economy in the North and the Gaeseong industrial complex is a comparative advantage combined with elements of North-South interdependence as a South-North economic cooperation business and can contribute significantly to the stabilization of the North-South relations. Among the models using criteria of the determination of origin, it has directly provided the models of general regulation for offshore products, of limited offshore products. These models are to help Korean exporters in understanding and utilizing the Rules of Origin for their manufacturing. In addition, the development of the Gaeseong industrial complex will contribute to establish peace on the Korean peninsula as well as in Northeast Asia. Also economic cooperation between South and North Koreas is essential for peace and prosperity of the Korean people.
A Study on the Emotional Language Imagery according to Popular Music Genres for Development of Textile Print Design Ideas I
Kim, Ji Yeon ; Oh, Kyung Wha ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 354~365
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.354
This study investigates the positioning of emotional language imagesin popular music genres for developing textile print design ideas. Auditory and synaesthetic imagery were employed to deduct emotional language imageries from popular music genres and analyze differences in emotional language imageries according to popular music genres. Six genres of popular music were selected as stimulus and a survey was conducted to analyze emotional language imagery differences and similarities depending on popular music genres. The results of this study were: The results of the factor analysis and the reliability test on emotional language imagery showed factorial structures that include Lyrical-Feminine, Intense-Masculine, Euphoric-Active, Gloomy-Melancholy, Abstruse-Sophisticated, and Addictive-Continuous. The results of the mean scores of emotional language imagery of each popular music genre showed that respondents tended to perceive that ballad and new age music are similar and hip-hop & rap, dance, and metal-rock are similar. Based on the multidimensional scaling analysis, new age positioned Lyrical-Feminine, metal-rock positioned Intense-Masculine, dance music positioned Euphoric-Active, and ballad positioned Gloomy-Melancholy. This study provides elementary resources to inspire innovative textile prints designed through different characteristics of emotional language imagery according to each popular music genre.
The Comparison between Korean and American Women's Garments Terminologies from 1910s to 1930s through the Women's Magazines
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 366~377
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.366
This paper is a comparative research study between Korean and American women's garments from the 1910s to 1930s. It focuses on the articles and advertisements of Korean women's magazines and American women's magazines. The Korean women's magazines investigated are 신여자[Siyeoja], 신가정[Singajung], 부인[Buin], 신여성[Sinyeosung], and 여성[Yeosung]. The American woman's magazine investigated is Ladies' Home Journal. This paper explores the differences and similarities between the garments that appear in these magazines. There is little evidence about women's clothing in Korean women's magazines while the American women's magazine includes a lot of information about women's dress and life. Korean women usually wore Korean traditional costumes with traditional terms like Chima and Jeogori but they wore western shoes, stockings, shawls, umbrellas, and some clothing with western materials such as lace, velvet, and rayon with borrowed words. These western accessories and some clothing materials like lace and rayon were the same fashion in America. So, Korean women wore traditional and western clothing together while American women wore clothing influenced by Paris fashion. American women wore various pieces of clothing like suits, frocks, coats and sportswear with undergarments. There were also lots of advertisements about women's under garments and sportswear which was different from Korean women's clothing during the period.
The Effects of Job Related Variables on Job Satisfaction and Job Performance of Apparel Salespeople
Park, Kwang Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 378~385
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.378
This study examined the differences in job related variables, job satisfaction and job performance against demographic characteristics and the impacts of job related variables on job satisfaction and job performance. A questionnaire survey collected data from september
2011. A convenience sample was drawn from salespersons working for department stores in Daegu and Pohang. A total of 337 responses were complete and usable questionnaires. Data were tested through factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and regression analysis, using SPSS 21.0. The results of this study are as follows: First, six factors were extracted from job related variables (positive reaction of customer, career of salespeople, interpersonal relations, influence of salesperson, customer complaints, overwork). Second, there were significant differences in job related variables, job satisfaction, and job performance according to age, marital status, average monthly income, work period, and job position. Third, regression analysis between job related variables and job satisfaction showed that the most influential predictor of job satisfaction was career of salespeople, followed by interpersonal relations, influence of salesperson, customer complaints, and overwork. The most influential predictor between job related variables and job performance was positive reaction of customer, followed by career of salespeople, interpersonal relations, influence of salesperson, and customer complaints.
Effects of Marketing Strategy on Brand attitude, Store affect, and Store loyalty: A comparison between Global and Korean SPA brands
Ko, Soon Hwa ; Kim, Eun Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 386~395
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.386
This study was to identify underlying dimension of marketing strategy, and to examine effect of the marketing strategic factors on store affect, brand attitude, and brand loyalty in global and domestic SPA brands. Based on pilot study, four SPA brands of which consumers were most aware were selected: Korean SPAs (e.g., Codes-Combine, Basic House) and global brands (e.g., Zara and Uniqlo). A self-administered questionnaire was developed based on literatures. By using intercept survey, 421 respondents were obtained from consumers shopping at the selected SPA retail stores located in cities (Seoul, Daejon, Chongju) in Korea. Result showed that SPA brand marketing strategy consisted of four factors: Product differentiation, store location, in-store VMD, and price value. The marketing strategic factors had partially significant effects on brand attitude, store affect and store loyalty. However, there was significant differences in those effects between global and Korean SPA brands. Specifically, the effect of in-store VMD on brand attitude was higher in Korean SPA brands, whereas the effect of price value was higher in global SPA brand. Also, the price value was significant predictor of store affects in global SPAs, while in-store VMD was significant predictor of store loyalty in Korean SPA brands. This study discussed a managerial implication for creating brand attitude and emotional responses, which obtains comparative advantages in the competing marketplace.
A Study on Influence of VM Attributes and VM Personality based on Consumers' Regulatory Focus on VM Attitude and Revisiting Intention
Lee, Ho-Jung ; Oh, Hee-Sun ; Suh, Yong-Han ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 396~405
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.396
This study demonstrates how VM attributes and VM personality influence VM attitude based on regulatory focus and how VM attitude influences revisiting intention. We used 303 copies of the survey form for the analysis. SPSS 19.0 for Windows Package was used to perform frequency analysis, factor analysis, and regression analysis. The results of the study: First, direction and arrangement of VM attributes had a significantly positive (+) influence on VM attitude. Second, fervor and trust of VM personality had a significantly positive (+) influence on VM attitude, while unpleasantness had a negative (-) influence. Third, VM attitude had a significant influence on visiting intention. Fourth, in terms of promotion focus, direction, arrangement, and promotion of VM attributes had a significantly positive (+) influence on VM attitude. In regards to prevention focus, image of VM attributes had a significant influence on VM attitude. In promotion focus, fervor and trust of VM personality had a significantly positive (+) influence on VM attitude, while unpleasantness had a negative (-) influence. In prevention focus, refinement and fervor of VM personality had a statistically significant influence on VM attitude. Only promotion focus showed a significant influence of VM attitude on revisiting intention.
A Study on Improvements of Children's Denim Pants Construction Method Based on Physical Characteristics and Body Areas Worn - Focusing on 4-year-old Boys -
Kim, Hye Suk ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 406~420
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.406
The goal of this study is to support the children's pants construction methods that secure clothing size and fit appropriateness through proposed improvements of denim pants construction method focusing on 4-year-old boys. Depths interview on the actual condition, measurements and calculations for positions and ease of the clothing points corresponding to the body points actually worn were conducted for 47 denim pants of nine boys. "Characteristics of the areas worn" and "physical characteristics of lower body" were analyzed, and improvements of 4-year-old children's denim pants construction method were proposed. As the results, the different figures in "characteristics of the areas worn" between the existing children's pants construction methods and children's actual wearing habits were found, and identification of distinct children's lower body from adults' supports that we should avoid tracing adults' methods without reasons. Children's pants construction method on basis of actual wearing should be devised to solve fit problems. Improvements of children's method were proposed such as ease of girth by different area worn, ease of "elastic waist girth", the difference between "elastic waist girth" and "pattern waist girth", and the difference between "pattern waist girth" and "pattern hip girth" as considerations of pants girth items, and appropriate position "clothing waist girth" "pants hip length" level, "pants crotch length" level, "clothing knee length" level, and "pants outside length" level for pattern making as considerations of clothing length items.
An Analysis of Compression Wear Designs and Structural Elements
Lee, Jung Hwa ; Jun, Jung Il ; Choi, KuengMi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 421~433
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.421
The aim of this study was to provide compression wear manufacture brands with information needed for product development. 8 tops and 7 bottoms from widely recognized compression wear manufacture brands were selected, and their product structural elements were analyzed, too. The results showed that most compression wear designs were applications of cutting lines designed considering muscle movements of the human body. The average number of cutting lines for patterns and designs were 14 for tops and 15 for bottoms. Different colored material was mainly used on the top for areas that require ventilation or high movement during sports for tops, and for areas that require muscle and joint support during sports for bottoms. The functionality of top materials were found to be stretch, muscle support, moisture absorption and high speed drying, warmth and ventilation for tops, in order of frequency, and stretch, muscle support, moisture absorption and high speed drying, and pressure for bottoms, in order of frequency. Tops were cut in the direction of the lengthwise grain, and bottoms were not only cut in the direction of the lengthwise grain, but also in the direction of the crosswise grain and bias for many products. Tops consisted of an average of 13 organically connected panels, and bottoms consisted of an average of 18 organically connected panels, which was analyzed to improve functionality. The average clothing surface area stretch rate was 85.7% for tops and 70.0% for bottoms, indicating that bottoms were designed to have higher strain rates compared to tops.
A Study on Ergonomic Fashion Design - Focused on Body Conscious Active Sportswear -
Kim, Hyunju ; Na, Hyunshin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 434~445
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.434
The meaning of this research is to make recognition for necessity of ergonomic fashion design research. And the purpose is to provide the guidelines for ergonomic fashion product development. For this, literature research and analysis of empirical illustration of product design indicating ergonomics characteristic are implemented. Among the body-conscious active sportswear, cycle wear, swim suit, and skin scuba wet suit were selected and analyzed. Then they were explained according to the ergonomics characteristics arranged previously. Lastly, the features of ergonomic fashion design were arranged by composition elements of the clothing such as pattern, sewing, material and detail. The characteristics of ergonomic design derived from literature and advanced researches are efficiency, usability, functionality and safety. Through research and analysis, the characteristics of ergonomic fashion design are as followings. In pattern, it is related to the 3D structure division pattern, the reduction pattern design, the closing & opening part design for easy detachment, the receipt and the changeable design. In sewing, it is related to the use of latest sewing techniques and the finish using silicon or rubber band. In material, it is related to the use of high performance fabrics and the proper arrangement of these. In detail, it is related to the convenient detail, the storage detail, the adjustable detail, and the body protection detail.
Draft Proposal of Smart Outdoor Wear upon the Outdoor Wear Functionality Demand
Paek, Kyung Ja ; Lee, Jeong Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 446~455
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.446
This study revealed the results related to the functionality of outdoor wear required when man and women in their 30s to 50s engage in outdoor activities. Based on the results of the survey, we proposed composition draft for a smart outdoor jacket with main functions of GPS device and light-emitting device using solar cell and EL. Absorption and release of sweat, functionality regarding rain and wind, and lightweightness, etc. from material functionalities of outdoor wear were found to be important. From function required in clothing for outdoor activity, location tracking, night glow, and lighting functions were found to be most important. For results investigating the necessity of the jacket's location tracking function and lighting function using solar cell, high scores of 3.9~4.0 were given. Purchase intentions for smart outdoor jacket with location tracking and lighting functions devised by this study were fairly positive and most responses indicated that the appropriate purchase price was between 200,000 to 300,000 won while possible problems of this smart outdoor jacket were listed in the order of washing inconvenience, high price, device weight, and discomfort in movement. The draft proposal to integrate with wearable devices for smart outdoor jacket prototype is as follows: Solar cell has been attached to the upper arm but placed inside a transparent pocket which has been detachable for washing convenience while the solar cell and controller have been integrated into a single unit. Using frequent movement exhibited by the arms, EL has been attached along the center line of the raglan sleeve for easy spotting when used as an emergency signal or for night lighting function during outdoor activity. GPS has been attached on the left sleeve so that the person can bend the left arm inward and operate the GPS screen with the right hand while walking or running outdoors.
Effects of Oxygen Plasma Treatment on the Wettability of Polypropylene Fabrics
Kwon, Young Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 456~461
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.456
The objective of this study is to give PP(polypropylene) fabric a good affinity for water. Oxygen plasma was treated to PP fabrics in a commercial glow discharge reactor with different RF power, discharge pressure, and reaction time. The PP fiber surfaces were characterized by the measurement of contact angle and ESCA. A JEOL scanning electron microscope was used to observe the surface morphology of fibers. The spontaneous water uptake amount of PP fabrics was determined by the demand wettability test. To determine the effect of aging on the surface properties of
plasma treated PP, all the above measurements of the samples were carried out after 1, 7, 30, 60, and 150 days. The results are as follows. The PP fiber surfaces treated by
plasma treatment have a chemical composition that consisted of various oxygen containing polar groups. Consequently, the contact angles of the treated PP fibers decreased, which improved the water uptake rate of PP fabrics. Surface roughness of the treated PP affected the fabric wettabiity as well. Wettability of the treated PP decreased and leveled off with aging. The
plasma treatment is a simple and effective method to increase the water uptake rate of PP fabrics.
Natural dyeing of Soybean Protein Fabrics - Gallnut -
Noh, Young-Ju ; Lee, Shin-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 462~468
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.462
This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at
and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f,
, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.
Preference of Health Care Professionals for Medical Gowns
Baek, Yoon Jeong ; Park, Sungjin ; Lee, Hyo-Hyun ; Son, Oe-Soo ; Lee, Joo-Young ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 469~475
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.469
This study's goal was to obtain basic data about the functional gowns of health care providers. 828 health care providers, including 150 doctors, 224 dentists, 202 nurses, 61 physical therapists and 191 medical technicians, living in Seoul and Daejeon areas, participated in this survey. A questionnaire was created using 15 items about the current health care providers' gowns. 15 items were consisted of 3 parts; satisfaction rate and activity (part 1), preference the details of medical gown (part 2), and personal information (part 3). In this study, "wearer activity" was the main concern for them and the majority of respondents, regardless of their age and type of work, preferred the V neckline, short gown length (waist line), loose sleeves and anti-bacterial textiles. Only the doctors preferred the full sleeves, whereas, the others preferred short sleeves. The younger health care providers showed a slightly higher preference for the slim type gown, while the older providers preferred the straight type. In this study, most health care providers were not satisfied with their current gowns, except dentists. Physical therapist answered the highest score of dissatisfied for current wearing medical gown among the all health care professionals. The 20's answered the highest score of dissatisfaction among the all generation.
Dyeing Property and Antimicrobial activity of Protein Fiber Using Terminalia chebula Retzius Extract
Nam, Ki Yeon ; Lee, Jung Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 476~484
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.476
The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing properties and anti-microbial ability of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Terminalia chebula Retzius(TCR) extract using two extraction solvent, hot water and methanol. Dyeing properties of fabrics were studied by investigating the characteristics of colorant, changes in dye uptake under different dyeing conditions, and by investigating color change when mordants were applied. Also, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics were estimated. Regardless of extraction solvent type, colorant showed maximum absorption wavelength at 280 nm and 578 nm, which implied that tannin was the major pigment component of TCR. Also, through FT-IR spectrum result, it was confirmed that tannin of TCR methanol extract was hydrolysable tannin. But for the hot water extract, it was only assumed that its tannin was condenced tannin. Fabric dyed with hot water solvent extract showed higher dye uptake than fabric dyed with methanol solvent extract, dye uptake increasing by higher concentration of the dye, longer dyeing time and higher dyeing temperature. And the absorption curve between TCR extract and protein fiber was shaped in the form of Langmuir adsorption isotherm. Fabric dyed without mordant was yellow in color, and when dyed with mordant, fabric showed various colors depending on mordant types except Sn. Color fastness to washing was generally fine and color fastness to light was moderate. But color fastness to rubbing and dry cleaning was outstanding. Lastly, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial activity of 99.9% against Staphylococcus aureus and Kiebsiella pneumoniae.
Wearing Comfort Evaluation of a Summer Flight Suit to Improve Ventilation
Jeon, Eun-Jin ; Park, Sei-Kwon ; You, Hee-Cheon ; Kim, Hee-Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 485~491
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.485
This study verified the effect of summer flight ventilation developed in a previous study based on wearing comfort evaluation. Seven healthy males in their twenties volunteered for this experiment conducted in aclimatic chamber. The experiment consisted of three consecutive periods of rest (20 minutes), running on a treadmill (10 minutes) and recovery (20 minutes). A comparative evaluation was conducted on the general flight suit which had no ventilation holes and summer flight suit that use subjective satisfaction measures and objective measures. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of temperature sensation, wet sensation, thermal comfort and fatigue sensation. The objective satisfaction was measured by skin temperature, microclimate (temperature and humidity), sweat rate and thermography. The comparative wearing evaluation identified the summer flight suit decreased the temperature between skin and suit by
(calf) and the skin temperature by
(calf) as compared to the general flight suit. The humidity inside the summer flight suit decreased at head (7.73%), shoulder (5.86%), upper arm (5.26%), and calf (8.73%) compared to the one inside the general flight suit. Thermography showed that the air flowed through ventilation holes (neck and armpit). The design of ventilation holes applied to the summer flight suit can be applicable to overall clothing that requires thermal comfort such as dust-free garments, mechanical clothing and combat uniforms.
Colorants Characteristics and Fastness Analysis of Lotus Seedpods
Lim, Jee-Young ; Jang, Jeong-Dae ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 16, issue 3, 2014, Pages 492~498
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.492
Lotus(Nelumbo nucifera gaertn) is intimate plant to many people that it has clean and noble characteristics despite growth in the mud. Especially Lotus seedpods, byproduct of lotus, are rich in oligometric procyanidins and could be a new source of procyanidins. Procyanidins, also known as condensed tannins, are a class of polyphenols. In other words lotus seedpod contains plenty of tannins. Commonly tannins colorants could increase adsorption and fastness properties in fabric dyeing. This study was made to investigate colorants characteristics of lotus seedpod and various colorfastness properties of dyed silk fabrics. The wavelength of maximum absorption of lotus seedpod solution appeared at 273.5 nm from UV-vis spectrophotometer. From the results of FT-IR spectra measurements, IR absorption band of lotus seedpod colorants appeared at
by tannin structure. And tannin ingredient contents was the highest at pH 9 and flavonoid at pH 11. Lotus seedpod colorants showed relatively good affinity at pH 3 on silk fabrics and optimum dyeing temperature and time for silk was for 50 min, at
. K/s of Light fastness according to different washing method was the highest at process including ironing and
was the lowest. All of fastness(Light rubbing laundering perspiration dry cleaning) showed excellent results over 4 or 4-5 grades.