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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Design Preference for the Development of Horse-Riding Pants
Lee, Da-Eun ; Kwon, Young-Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 1~10
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.1
The concern for living a healthier and more active life has increased and the target market for the leisure-sportswear will broaden. This study suggests ideas and directions to develop horse-riding pants that consider fit satisfaction, demand performance and design requirements. A total of 203 riders were surveyed in Busan, Jeju, and Gwacheon horse racing tracks from November to December 2011 and from September to October 2012. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, t-test, and
-test were performed for the statistical analysis of the data using SPSS Win 21.0 program. The results of this study are as follows. The satisfaction of riding pants showed differences according to gender, riding career, BMI, age, and riding level. Females showed lower satisfaction of pant length than males. Riders with 1-4 years riding career showed more satisfaction of the front waist circumference. The group between 10 and 20 years more strongly preferred a rubber band waist than the group over 30 years. Those underweight preferred no pocket on the back. The intermediate-high riding level showed more fit satisfaction than those at the high level. Beginners put more importance on hip cushion, while riders over an intermediate level put more importance to sewing durability. Basic pants with beige and/or black full patch attached to the velcro hem were preferred by most riders. In conclusion, it is confirmed that design strategies in segmented riding pants market are necessary.
A Study on the Blurring of Boundary Reflected in Contemporary Fashion Jewelry Design -Focused on the relationship between fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body-
Hwang, You Jung ; Choi, Jung Hwa ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 11~21
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.11
This study analyzed the expressive phenomenon of a blurred boundary in fashion jewelry focused on the relationship between fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries about jewelry theories in regards to 607 cases of fashion jewelry design in fashion books, fashion magazines, fashion internet sites from 2000 to 2014. The results were: First, phenomenon of blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and costume was expressed in a see-through wear form made of luxury material (gold and diamond) or paste material, a similar form (like fashion accessories made of crystal, bids, and gold chain), an integration of fashion accessories and jewelry, and an attached jewelry on fashion accessories. It reflected a rearrangement of conventional relationships, a blurred relation of function and meaning, dissolution of jewelry form stereotypes, jewelry styling, a harmony of function and decoration, and an alteration to the central role of a fashion image. Second, the phenomenon of a blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and body was expressed in a body organ wrapping, body surface adhesion and sculptural jewelry based on body pose. It reflected a separation from conventional space of jewelry expression, a realization of mystery and fantastic, an expression of new body surface and a blurred boundaries of fashion jewelry and body art. Aesthetic characteristics were analyzed into metaphor and integration by separation from the conventional relationship of fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body.
A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics in Check Fashion
Kim, Jeong Mee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 22~32
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.22
The purpose of this study is to investigate the aesthetic characteristics of check fashion of the 20th century and to analyze the formativeness for them shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Before the First World War, check patterns were used for S silhouette dresses and hobble dresses. During the two wars, they were used for garçonne style dresses and military suits. Check patterns were used for mini style in the 1960s, uni-sex style in the 1970s, and power suits in the 1980s. Especially after the 1980s, check patterns have followed the fashion trend of each season and appeared in retro styles. Consequently, the aesthetic characteristics of check dresses of the 20th century are traditionality, ornamentation and eclecticism. 2) Traditionality of check fashion shown in recent collections was implied in the classic styles like suits with its grey glen check, avant-garde styles like boxy coat with its dark blue tartan check, and so forth. Ornamentation was shown in the modern styles like jackets decorated with block check colored white and black, casual styles like bomber jackets with hound tooth check colored white and black, and so forth. Eclecticism was reflected in the romantic styles like one-piece dresses with hound tooth check colored white and light blue, elegant styles like low-cut dress with its dark blue window pane check, ethnic styles like long cape with gingham check colored white and black, and so forth.
A Study on Female Image of the Third wave Feminism in Fashion Photographs
Park, Jeongsil ; Ha, Jisoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 33~41
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.33
It analyzes the expressive characteristics of the third wave feminism revealed in the fashion photographs and examines the feminine image affected by the third wave feminism. For the research purposes, both literature review and case study were conducted together. Through the analysis on the expressive characteristics of the fashion photographs based on the characteristics of the third wave feminism, the followings are definitions of the feminine image affected by the third wave feminism. First, as the `Female image with sexual freedom`, it escapes from the passive viewpoint and expresses liberation and rights of women as the subject of the power rather than subordination using sexuality of women actively. Second, as the `Female image with multiple aspects`, it pursues an independent and strong image, challenges and threatens the man power. Third, as the `Multicultural female image`, it reduces a gap among colored races and many other cultures, seeks after rights and freedom independently escaping from the dual oppression, Fourth, as the `Queer female image`, it disorganizes dichotomous gender identity actively and pursues diverse gender identities. So, it shows that the third wave feminism expressed by the various media cultures influences the feminine image in a society at large creating a new image of a woman through exchanging and communicating with its recipients.
Aesthetic Characteristics of Glocalism in Flight Attendants` Uniform Design
Kim, Ji U ; Kim, Jang Hyeon ; Kim, Young Sam ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 42~52
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.42
This study considers the expressive types of `Glocalism` trends and its inherent aesthetic characteristics through the analysis of flight attendants` uniform design. The following is the conclusions regarding the glocalism trend according to the analysis of airline uniform design that reflect it. First, the design approach was developed appropriating the whole or parts of traditional attire and applying decorative items in terms of a formal aspect. Secondly, the colors of the airline`s homeland symbols or natural environment were used while, thirdly, the fabrics represent glocalism by employing folk elements of the region and patterns of nature for a uniform design. Induced from these design analyses, the aesthetic characteristics of airline uniforms reflecting glocalism are traditionality, naturality, and compromisability. To begin with, traditionality is what is realized in interpreting the historical aesthetics in a contemporary perspective, contributing in inspiring the historical value of the homeland and contributing to the establishment of identity by applying forms and colors of traditional garments with folk patterns on a uniform design. In addition, naturality means the reorganization of unprocessed pure nature, expressing the image of nature through colors taken from the natural environment or motifs of the regional plants. Finally, combining general sensibilities with diverse cultural features, compromisability is realized as a modern design which combines a standardized uniform with the aesthetic components of the local environment and traditional garments.
A Study on Press Preferences according to Clothing Design Factors of Children Dress - Focused on preschool children-mother -
Yang, Hyo-Jung ; Park, Soon-Chun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 53~63
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.53
The necessity on children dresses for cultural events and emotional aspects in designs have become important according to the development of kids industry and revitalization of party culture, and so grasping emotional requirements of consumers is necessary actually. This study aims at purpose of this research, the study used 27 color pictures on the whole bodies of children who wore children dresses that mixed clothing design factors differently (sleeve, skirt length, waist line, materials, color, decoration type and location) through a survey. Regarding the survey objects, this study objected children of 5~6 years old in full and their mothers who lived in Gwangju Metropolitan City, and its results were same as follows. First, dress preferences between children group and mother group were similar generally, but differences were displayed from dress lengths. That is, children preferred long length in general, and whereas mothers were come out to prefer shot length comparatively. Second, the study could get results by mixing ranking 1 and ranking 2 according to clothing design factors that were preferred by children group and mothers group deduced through an empirical analysis. Merely, the location according to decoration type was limited to ranking 1. Based on the research, this study expects that various forthcoming researches have been made continuously, and it could become a guideline for the development of children dress industry afterwards.
A Study on the Nationalism Characteristics of the Hungarian Women`s Costumes in the Restoration of the 19
Cho, Hyunjin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 64~73
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.64
This paper examines the characteristics of Hungarian women`s costumes under the Reign of the Habsburg Empire in the
Century. Since the beginning of the
century, the Habsburg Empire inflicted strong oppression on Hungary. Under the influence of the European upper class, exaggerated and sumptuous costumes were fashionable in the Hungarian Aristocracy. They preferred blouses decorated with colorful embroidery, pleated sleeves, gorgeous beads and lace, long pleated skirts with velvet borders, corsets decorated with delicate embroidery, coats adorned with lace, and capes. However, Hungarian nationalists protested against the Habsburg Empire`s oppression; consequently, Hungarian national costumes expressed a sense of resistance and solidarity. The results of the study are as follows. The Hungarian women`s costumes were different from women`s costumes of the Habsburg Empire in regards to headdress, bodice, apron, pattern and shoes. The Hungarian women`s headdress consists of the parta and veil. The bodice is richly adorned with colorful embroidery and differs from skirts in color and material. The Hungarian women`s apron is distinct from the Habsburg Empire as a unique Hungarian item. Finally, Hungarian costumes are characterized by the Oriental pattern and short boots with metal heels.
The differences in Cognition, Purchasing Experience and Attitudes towards Attributes of SPA Brands between Appearance Interest Groups
Park, Kwanghee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 74~81
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.74
This study explored the degree of cognition, purchasing experience and attitudes towards SPA brand attributes. This study examined the differences in variables and demographic characteristics against appearance interest groups. A questionnaire survey collected data from November
2012. The convenience sample was drawn from females between the ages of 20 and 39 who lived in the Daegu and Gyeongbuk regions of South Korea. A total of 255 responses were complete and usable questionnaires. Data were tested through factor analysis, t-test, and
test using SPSS 21.0. The results show that there were significant group differences in the cognition and purchasing experience of SPA brands and the attitudes towards SPA brand attributes. The high appearance interest group was more aware of SPA brands and evaluated SPA brand attributes more positively and bought more SPA brand products than the low appearance interest group. The high appearance interest group showed that domestic brands were excellent in low price among brand attributes but foreign brands were relatively excellent in various design and store display. There was a significant difference in educational level between appearance interest groups; however, there were no significant differences in age, marital status, and income level group. This study contributes to basic information for the SPA brand buying behavior research field and apparel industry marketing strategy by analyzing the relationship among appearance interest, cognition, SPA brand purchasing experience and SPA brand attribute attitudes.
The Characteristics of Adult Male Shoulder Types by according to The Slope
Choi, Eun-Hee ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 82~92
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.82
This study classified the types of adult male shoulders through criteria which represent the characteristic of male shoulders important to jacket patterns. We selected 39 measurement items to provide information about Size Korea (2010) 3D bodice measurements. Collected data were processed with SPSS 20 for windows. Participants in the study were 1055 adult males, aged 20-60 divided into three age groups of 20-30, 40-50 and 60. Statistical tests (such as descriptive analysis and F-test) analyzed the data and ascertained the differences in ages. In a factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted for the classification of shoulder type`s adult males. The factor analysis indicates 6 factors with 82.4% of total variance. The shoulder types for adult male were divided into 3 groups, flat shoulder (14.1%), normal shoulder (72%), and slope shoulder (13.8%). A total of 19.9% of 20-30 was included in the slope shoulder type, 15.8% of 40-50 was included in the flat shoulder type and 16.1% of 60 was included in the flat shoulder type. This study classified the type of male shoulder through criteria that represent the characteristics of elderly male shoulder to neck base circumference, shoulder angle and shoulder type. The follow-up study will proceed with elderly male neck and various measurement items around the shoulder.
Patternmaking of Men`s Slim-fit Jacket Sloper in Their 30`s Part 2 -Focusing on 6-panel jacket-
Kim, Myoung-Ok ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 93~101
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.93
This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men`s slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30`s. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher`s sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher`s sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.
A Study of the Development Direction Factors for Mass Customization of Clothing based on Digital Fashion System
Lim, Hosun ; Cho, Hakyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 102~115
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.102
Due to the diversification of lifestyles and the rapid growth of Internet environments since the 1990s, mass customization has been recently accepted as an important trend in the area of clothing and all other areas. In response to mass customized clothing products, global clothing product brands are introducing systems for mass customization such as the application of digital fashion systems that introduced IT technologies such as CAD and 3D scanners. However, studies of planning factors for clothing products applied with digital fashion systems in the area of mass production of clothing products are insufficient. Therefore, this study was intended to analyze the lifestyles of 20-30s that are expected to have the highest demand for clothing applied with digital fashion systems and present basic planning factors according to lifestyles. Through the analysis, three groups that have one of fashion pursuing type, sensory information pursuing type, and practical function pursuing type lifestyles were derived. Based on this result, consumer demand for digital fashion systems and basic factors for product planning were analyzed to present basic planning factors for digital fashion system based customized clothing by lifestyle group. This study is meaningful in that it provided basic data for product planning through digital fashion systems by analyzing the awareness, preference, necessity, and planning factors of digital fashion systems through the analysis of lifestyle types.
Comparison of the Properties of Cosmetics Depending on the Shopping Tendency of Female Consumers in Korea and China
Liu, Sha-Sha ; Park, Sook-Hyun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 116~126
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.116
This paper compared the properties of cosmetics depending on the shopping tendency of female consumers in Korea and China. The data on Chinese women living in Korea and Korean women in their 20s was collected using an offline survey. The data on Chinese women living in China in their 20s was collected using an online survey. Three hundred twenty-seven questionnaires out of a total of 330 questionnaires were used for statistical analysis. The survey was conducted from January to February 2014. Eighteen questions on shopping tendency and eight questions on the properties of cosmetics were analyzed using a 5-point Likert scale. Data was analyzed by Descriptives, Factor Analysis, Reliability Analysis, ANOVA and Cluster Analysis, and SPSS 21 statistical program. In accordance with the analyses, the shopping tendency comprised a showing-off tendency, pleasure-seeking tendency, and practicality tendency; the properties of cosmetics were classified into conformity and functionality. On the basis of the elements in the shopping tendency, the female consumers were categorized into a low involvement consumer group, high involvement consumer group, and hedonic consumer group. The Chinese women emphasized conformity or functionality of cosmetics more than the Korean women regardless of the countries where they lived. Regardless of shopping types or countries where they lived, the Korean and Chinese women in their 20s emphasized functionality over conformity of cosmetics. Furthermore, Chinese women living in Korea showed a similar shopping tendency to Chinese living in China.
Combination Dyeing of Juniperus Chinensis Heartwood and Alnus Japonica Heartwood Extracts
Sa, A-Na ; Lee, Jung Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 1, 2015, Pages 127~136
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.127
The purpose of this study was to examine improvements in dye uptake, expression of various colors, and color fastness when washed or exposed to light. We examined these improvements by doing the combination dyeing of Juniperus chinensis heartwood and Alnus japonica heartwood extracts. In this study, two combination dyeing methods were used. One-bath dyeing involves combining Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract and Alnus japonica heartwood extract. Two-bath dyeing involves dyeing by sequence, which means that we dyed the Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyed Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially (or in the opposite order). In terms of improving dye uptake, two-bath dyeing was more effective than one-bath dyeing. For cotton, dyeing Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyeing Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially showed higher dye uptake in the two-bath method, while for silk, there wasn`t much difference in the dyeing order. Through combination dyeing, red-violet color from Juniperus chinensis heartwood and brown color from Alnus japonica heartwood made various Y, YR, R series of color as a result. Moreover, combination dyeing improved fabric`s fastness when washed or exposed to light. In the case of cotton, fabric dyed using two-bath dyeing, with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract being the first dye, showed improvement in fastness to washing and light. And in the case of silk, fastness to washing and light improved regardless of dyeing order in two-bath dyeing.