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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
Genre Characteristics of Objet Hats in Contemporary Fashion
Park, Sun-Hee ; Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 147~156
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.147
Lately, unique hats, which worn by iconic figures in fashion industry, like Anna Piaggi and Isabella Blow to express the originality and self-awareness, received attention from the mass media along with their styles. The purpose of this research is to investigate, analyze, and media-specific characteristics of objet hats which are used to show various items, shape up targets, and express the concept of attires. In order to fulfill this, this study focuses on objet hat designers who have been influential from the 1980`s to recent years. As for the research methodologies, this study conducts investigating examples from fashion related books, research papers, and websites along with literary research. Study of objet hat is based on cases and works of designer in objet hat in contemporary fashion expression shape. As a result, objet hat, First, the experimental work to maximize the effectiveness as a fashion objet containing the concept of designer in the runway shows. Second, as pieces displayed on art galleries and museums, objet hats are recognized as artistically defined world of conceptual designers` imaginations. Third, objet hats function as ways of celebrities` expression, who affects the public as fashion leaders. Lastly, objet hat designers`s activities operate the story and notion contained in the work through a variety of genres. Objet hats, an independent fashion genre, which symbolize creativity and freedom, influenced the fashion industry with astonishing materials, forms, and decorations.
Design Characteristics of New Senior Women`s Coat
Bae, Siyeon ; Lee, Kyoung-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 157~167
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.157
This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder`s style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women`s coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women`s coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women`s coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.
A Study on the Characteristics and Trends of Sustainable Fashion through Esthetica at London Fashion Week
Kim, Hye Eun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 168~177
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.168
The purpose of this study is to investigate sustainable fashion flows and to outline their characteristics by analysing Esthetica as the largest trade-based sustainable fashion exhibition in the UK. Most of the researchers have focused on its ethical meaning rather than on fashionable criteria or marketable value. This pioneer work could be helpful in order to plan and study sustainable fashion flows. The research method is to identify characteristics of sustainable fashion trends through literature reviews and case studies focused on the UK, Esthetica events and participating brands. The following results were obtained. Upcycling suggests the extension of a product`s lifecycle, a trend on the increase. Transparency is the crucial issue in sustainable fashion. Estethica shows that nurturing sustainable brands is one effective way of boosting the sustainable industry, as well as encouraging the production of sustainable products. Sustainable fashion has come to be included in mainstream fashion in terms of aesthetics and commercial competitiveness. Finally, sustainable fashion highlights quality of garments. Thus, Esthetica shows the present of sustainable fashion and its future, that is, sustainable fashion not just as a trend but a lifestyle for both its consumers and the industry. As the sustainable industry is a growing sector, it would be useful to carry out separate in-depth case studies on leading sustainable brands and qualitative aspects.
A Study on Fashion Design Utilizing Formative Characteristics of Animal Stripes
Yum, Misun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 178~190
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.178
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of animal stripes based on the colors, shapes and texture through classification standards under functional meanings, and it also aims to produce various stripe patterns based on its outcome to develop modern fashion design. For the study method, specialty publications, preceding researches and internet websites were utilized for the purpose of theoretical discussion on animal stripes. And it is also to examine functional meanings formed by animal stripes in order to analyze the characteristics of stripes; subsequently, based on the classification standard of this function, it is to identify the distinction of its colors through quantitative analysis on formative characteristics and colors. By using the following analyzed color palette of stripes, various stripe patterns were developed and designed with the sense of modern fashion while repeatedly using the shape with systematic colors and rhythms displayed on the animals. As a result of this study, it was confirmed that animal stripes possess a regularity that is systematic and can be digitized. After identifying, analyzing and systemizing formative characteristics of animal stripes, a concept of division and competition was applied; subsequently, whole new stripe patterns were developed and designed in order to further promote fashion design.
The study on the Skythian Costume I - Focaused on the Scythian of the northern region of the Black Sea -
Yi-Chang, Youngsoo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 191~202
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.191
The purpose of this study is to examine the form of the clothing of the Scythians who lived in the northern region of the Black Sea. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and catalogs of Scythian exhibitions held in Germany, a country where famous Scythian research was collected and analyzed. Results of this study are as follows: Regarding the basic form, there was no change in the appearance of the Scythian clothes which can be linked to social classes and regional background. But the detailing of the clothes changed. Russian archaeologist Klocko has stated that decorative bands of ancient costume appear to depend on the construction of ancient clothing. I have analyzed the upperjacket of Scythians with the decorative bands based on the research of Klocko. From this analysis could be observed that decorative bands of upperjacket had also been varied depending on their region and their social status. The decoration of the revers of upperjacket differs according to social status. According to their width, trousers were classified in types; in narrow and wide. The basic set up of the narrow-type is as follows: the trouser is divided into voluminous straight forms and leggings in close contact with the legs. The width of a trouser differs according to the social status of Scythians and from the region where they lived. Regional differences could be observed more significantly, than differences resulting from social status.
Difference Age and Price Attitude toward Apparel Products according to College Students` Vanity Typology
Park, Eun-Hee ; Ku, Yang-Suk ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 203~215
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.203
This study classifies vanity into groups, analyzes age differences and categorizes price attitudes toward apparel products. Questionnaires were administered to 461 college students living in Daegu City and Kyungbok province. Data were collected using frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, correlation analysis, regression analysis, ANOVA, Duncan-test, and t-test. The findings were as follows. College student vanity was classified into three groups of appearance/ achievement pride, low vanity, and appearance/achievement concern. Vanity showed a significant correlation with sub-variables of age difference and price attitude towards apparel products. Appearance pride and achievement concern (sub-variables of vanity) had a significant effect on the conspicuous of price attitude toward apparel products. Appearance pride and Appearance concern (sub-variables of vanity) had a significant effect on information of price attitude toward apparel products. Gender of college students showed a distinction insub-variables of vanity factors such as appearance concern and price attitude toward apparel products such as information, quality, and using coupons. Male students were distinct in look and health as well as age differences by group; female students were distinct in age perception differences (a sub-variable of age difference). Both male and female students showed differences in conspicuousness (a sub-variable of price attitude) toward apparel products by group.
The Influence of Perceived Risk of Up-cycling Fashion Product on Trust, Purchase Intention and Recommendation Intention
Park, Hyun-Hee ; Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 216~226
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.216
This study identifies factors of perceived risk of up-cycling fashion products and investigates perceived risk factors that influence consumers` trust, purchase intention, and recommendation intention towards upcycling fashion products. We also examine the relationship of trust, purchase intention, and recommendation intention for upcycling fashion products. A qualitative research method using a free narrative form and depth interview were used. The perceived risk from up-cycling fashion products generated 5 factor solutions: aesthetic risk, sanitary risk, social risk, performance risk, and economic risk. Next, 201 effective data were collected from a questionnaire survey and analyzed with SPSS 22.0. The results are summarized as follows. First, aesthetic risk and performance risk had a negative effect on products. Second, aesthetic risk and performance risk had negative influence on purchase intention for upcycling fashion products. Third, performance risk had a negative impact on recommendation intention for upcycling fashion products. Fourth, trust had positive effect on purchase intention and recommendation intention for upcycling fashion products. The results of the current study provides various theoretical and practical implications for marketers and retailers interested in up-cycling fashion products.
Lower Body Type Classification of Korean Men in Their 30`s for the Development of Slim-Fit Pants Pattern
Lee, Jeong-Eun ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 227~236
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.227
This study analyzed the lower body type of 30`s Korean men to develop a slim-fit pants pattern. As the analysis data, direct measurement data of anthropometric measured value in the 6th Size Korea(KATS, 2010) was used as basic data with 481 men in 30`s as analysis objects. The result are as follows. First, the result of analyzing factors for the lower body type classification indicated five factors. Second, the result of executing group analysis (with the independent variable of 5 clusters extracted from the factor analysis)classified the following three types. Type 1(36.8%) displayed a medium height of lower body type, small waist and hip, slim and fit body type with a slim shape between the knee and ankle. The shape between the waist and hip had characteristics of a slight curve and short length. Type 2(35.6%) displayed lowest height of a lower body type that was large and thick between the waist and the hip. The drop value of the waist and the hip was small; therefore, the body type was flat with a minimal curve. The underpart type (below the knee) was the thickest and the length was short. Type 3(27.7%) displayed the highest lower body type, a medium level waist size, flat and narrow waist and belly. This body type had a curve with big drop value of the waist and the hip, lower part from the hip to the ankle (including the knee) and a thick calf with along leg.
A Study on the Wearing Conditions of Social Baseball Uniforms
Kim, Ye Jin ; Choi, Hei Sun ; Kim, Eun Kyong ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 237~246
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.237
The purpose of this study is basic data for developing baseball uniform in the future by carrying out a survey of amateur baseball players on the wearing pattern of uniform and inconvenient details. To do this study, a survey targeting 307 male social baseball players in their 20s to 40s was conducted, and a preliminary survey through interview with designers, MDs and patternmakers had also been carried out and analyzed prior to the main one. The result shows that armpit and back patches get wet with perspiration the most, and patches around knees are likely to be worn out because of frequent sliding. Thus, they are dissatisfied with poor protective function the most and need quilted pads around knees. Answers for a question on injuries during games indicates that shoulder injuries due to pitching or batting and abrasion owing to sliding are most common and knee injuries are also frequent. As for the wearing satisfaction of uniform, they want elasticity and breathability of textile to be improved; they are not satisfied with its design and fit because they think top and bottoms are much too long and uncomfortable; they often find dirt inside of the uniform during games. Besides, they find it very difficult to remove dirt from the uniform even after washing. There has been a growing population of amateur baseball players over recent years, so this study would help develop functionally improved uniform and be used for developing uniform for professional baseball players.
A Study on the Wearing Conditions of Motorcycle Jackets for Quick Service Transporter
Sohn, Jae Min ; Choi, Hei Sun ; Kim, Eun Kyung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 247~257
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.247
This study conducted a questionnaire survey on the real condition of clothing with focus on related to general motorcycle wear and motorcycle jacket targeting a quick service carrier affiliated with a quick service business in Seoul. In addition, this study is aimed at providing basic data on developing the motorcycle jacket, whose motional flexibility, safety and functionality are excellent, exclusively for a quick service carrier by grasping inconveniences and problems and deducting improvements on the basis of the questionnaire survey. This study, on the basis of the questionnaire survey results, grasped the general part related to quick service and motorcycle wear, such as their general matters, whether they were having on the motorcycle wear in the middle of doing business, whether it`s necessary to wear the motorcycle wear, where they had a driving accident, and kinds of external injuries, etc. From the gathered results of analysis of the collected questionnaires, the item which got the lowest satisfaction was the inconvenience from the chafed front neck when driving. Besides, the results showed carriers` complaints like the elbow part felt tight, discomfort in the horizontal movement of the shoulders or back, and wind admission in between zippers. In addition, the respondents showed complaints in the item about hygroscopic property and air permeability at the armpits and back part, and 5 items about material flexibility, wind shielding property, living water repellency, weighty sensation, and night visibility were found to be low in respondents` satisfaction.
A Comparative Study for Anthropometric Measurements of Highschool Boys and Highschool Boys Cyclist
Park, Hyun-Jeong ; Do, Wol-Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 258~264
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.258
This study provides abasis for the development of high functional cycle wear with clothing comfort and fitness for highschool boy cyclists by a comparison of the somatotype of highschool boys cyclists and general highschool boys. This study directly measured 44 anthropometric targeted cyclists across Korea. "The sixth national standard physical survey" data targeted 16 to 18-year-old male adolescents; subsequently, anthropometric measurement data was provided by 766 people for research. Highschool boy cyclists used t-test to compare the differences in body type. The results in this study are follows. Highschool boys cyclists(compared to regular highschool boys) indicated a great somatotype stature and weight. The differences in the cervical height and the acromion height results of, cyclist appeared smaller. Cyclists angle of shoulder was smaller. The upper body of highschool boys cyclist was greater than the difference between chest breadth and bust breadth with along biacromion length. The waist front length of the cyclist was a short cycle ride upon the attitude of the streamlined. Highschool boy cyclists indicated that the muscles of the arm portion was more developed compared to general highschool boys. The lower body had less abdominal fat with a significantly developed thigh and calf.
A Study on Body Shape for 3D Virtual Body Shape Transformation - Focusing on the Women with age of forties -
Shin, Ju-Young Annie ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 265~277
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.265
The aim of this study was to successfully reflect human body changes on the transformation of the virtual body within 3D virtual fitting spaces. For this purpose, existing problems of shape transformation of the virtual body were analyzed and regression equations which provides useful basic data for transformation of the virtual body that can be applied usefully to the 3D virtual fitting system was developed. Necessary data for the analyses were body measurement and 3D scan data of women with average physical form between the ages of 40 through 49. The reason that we used human body changes of the female subjects in their forties was based on the recognition that fundamental female body changes start to occur from age of forty. Body shapes were largely divided into 3 groups according to obesity which was found to be the biggest factor of shape change. Seven factors were extracted based on factor analysis of 47 body measurement categories and regression equations were created to extract specific measurements for each BMI group based on these seven factors. The major contribution of this paper can be summarized as follows. First, the regression equations to extract specific measurements based on the 7 representative variables remediated existing problem of virtual bodies as it increased the number of body shape transformation areas. Second, the regression equations helped to overcome the problem of current failing to reflecting changes in body cross-section shape based on simple girth measurements based on analysis of cross-section distances.
Size Specification for Customized Production Size and 3D Avatar : An Apparel Industry Case Study
Choi, Young Lim ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 278~286
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.278
Fashion industry has tried to adopt the virtual garment technology to reduce the time and effort spent on sample creation. For garment manufacturers to adopt the virtual garment technology as an alternative to sample creation, 3D avatars that meet the needs of each brand should be developed. Virtual garment softwares that are available in the market provide avatars with standardized body models and allow to modify the size by manually entering size specifications. This study proposed a methodology to develop size specifications for 3D avatars as well as brand-customized production sizes. For this, a man`s fashion brand which is using virtual garment technology is selected. And the Size Korea database is used to develop size specification based on the customers` body shape. This study developed regression equations on body size specifications, which in turn proposed a regression model to proportionately change size specifications of 3D fitting-models. Based on the each body size calculated by the regression model, a standard model is created, and the skeleton-skin algorithm is applied to the regression model to obtain the results of size changes. Then, the 3D model sizes are tested for size changes as well as measured, which verifies that the regression model reflects body size changes.
Physical Properties of Polyester, Tencel and Cotton MVS Blended Yarns with Yarn counts and Blend Ratio
Sa, A-Na ; Lee, Jung Soon ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 287~294
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.287
This study investigates the physical properties of Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) blended yarn with yarn count(20`s, 30`s, 40`s) and blend ratio(Polyester 100, Polyester70:Cotton30, Polyester50:Cotton50, Polyester30:Cotton70, and Polyester50:Tencel40:Cotton10). This study evaluated tenacity, elongation, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, hairiness coefficient, irregularity and twist number. The structure of MVS blended yarn influenced stress, strain, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and the hairiness coefficient of MVS blended yarn decreased as the yarn count increased. MVS blended yarn consists of core and sheath. The core of MVS blended yarn is composed of a parallel fiber with a wrapping fiber that covers thecore fiber. This special structure of the MVS blended yarn effects the physical properties of the yarn; in addition, the mechanical properties of the component fibers influenced the stress, strain, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and hairiness coefficient of MVS blended yarn with the blend ratio. Polyester decreases and cotton increases resulted in decreased physical properties. A similar polyester content increased the tencel and physical properties. Appropriate physical properties and a variety of touch expression can be realized through a correct blend ratio.
Physical Property of Heat Storage Knitted Fabrics for High Emotional Garment
Kim, Hyun Ah ; Heo, Kyoung ; Kim, Seung Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 2, 2015, Pages 295~304
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.295
This paper investigated wear comfort property of heat storage knitted fabrics for high emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was prepared and various physical properties such as thermal, wicking and drying characteristics were measured. In addition, far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded PET was analysed and tactile hand property and dye affinity of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric were also studied in comparison with regular and other commercial heat storage PET knitted fabrics. It was observed that Zr imbedded amount in the yarn was 19.29% by ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission energy was
, emissivity was 0.906 at the range of wavelength
. It was found that maximum heat flow (Qmax) of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular PET one, which means ZrC imbedded PET have heat storage property. Drying property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was better than that of regular PET one due to heat by far-infrared emitted from ZrC in the core of filament. It revealed that wicking property of the ZrC imbedded fabric was not influenced by far-infrared emission, but affected by fibre physical properties. Tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not influenced by imbedding ZrC in the filament but affected preferably by structure of knitted fabric. Dye affinity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was less influenced by dyeing temperature and time than regular PET knitted one.