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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korean Society for ClothIng Industry
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 17, Issue 6 - Dec 2015
Volume 17, Issue 5 - Oct 2015
Volume 17, Issue 4 - Aug 2015
Volume 17, Issue 3 - Jun 2015
Volume 17, Issue 2 - Apr 2015
Volume 17, Issue 1 - Feb 2015
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Characteristics and Fashion Images of Female Political Leaders
Han, Jee Eun ; Jung, Sung Hye ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 315~326
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.315
Woman leadership has been remarkably highlighted with women`s accelerating entry into society. Domestic and overseas interests about political leaders began with the age of media and they are rapidly spreading worldwide with the development of internet, SNS and blog. Along with this phenomenon, exposure of images has been remarkably increasing and fashion has been also used as a political strategy. However, the research on woman political leaders has been insufficient so this study selected Geunhye Park, Michelle Obama and Hillary Clinton as representative woman leaders for the research. 149 pictures of Geunhye Park, 171 pictures of Michelle Obama and 124 pictures of Hillary Clinton from the articles containing their pictures from Jan. 2002 to Dec. 2013 were analyzed, focusing on their gender. The three woman political leaders` typical images of femininity, masculinity and androgyny were categorized respectively and the period and works in which those images had been expressed were reviewed. Also, fashion styles of the images pursued by each gender were analyzed through their color, material, silhouette, design point, items and accessories. As a result, Geunhye Park had femininity image at the beginning and had masculinity image when she did election campaigns, which led to her current image of androgyny. Michelle Obama uses the image of femininity, masculinity and androgyny simultaneously. It was found that Hillary Clinton emphasized the image of masculinity and androgyny but she emphasizes femininity image these days.
Design Characteristics of Contemporary Male Skirt and Expansion of the Masculine Image
Ryu, Limjeong ; Lee, Jeehyun ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 327~340
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.327
Male skirt is found in traditional costumes all over the world. Due to the development of tailoring skills in the early Middle ages, men started wearing breeches and pantaloons gradually distinguishing the different characteristics of menswear and womenswear. Since then, skirt became the strong representation of the female gender, symbolizing the feminism. However, under the influences of technological development and diversification in 2000s, gender identity has been diversely expressed in modern fashion allowing male gender to embrace different sexual identities. The purpose of the study is to analyze the nature of male skirts, which have been popularized in modern men`s fashion through both the expressional elements and compositional elements. This study associates design elements of male skirt, gradually appearing in the contemporary men`s fashion with the sexual symbolism and reinterpreted it`s significance in the flow of the modern fashion. Reinterpretation of the gender image in costumes are considered to contribute to the cultural context and extension in diversity. These research results forms a basic foundation to expand in studies of men`s fashion design and gender image of costumes through cultural contexts and it`s changes. It is considered that this can lay groundwork to make various attempts at passing over the archetype of the gender image besides the continuous appearance of male skirt in the field of fashion design.
A Study on Blouse Design for Silver Generation Using Modularization
Kim, Da Eun ; Lee, Kyoung Hee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 341~350
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.341
The purpose of this study was to suggest a silver blouse design by applying modularization. The precedent study of the researcher was used to analyze the design characteristics that were displayed in domestic and foreign silver blouses. This study was taken as the follow-up research as the module components and range of the silver blouse were set up and it was based on to suggest a silver blouse design with application of modularization. The intention was to base on the module system used in various fields to apply the modularization method on the module design research of silver blouse and as a result, it was derived into 6 types. The traditional design reflected on the characteristic of how the silver generation prioritizes practicality and in order to emphasize this, it will be more effective to apply the fastener and folding method for the development of the design. The contemporary design reflected on the characteristic of how the silver generation prioritizes aesthetics and in order to emphasize this, it will be more effective to apply the module composition method where integration can be made according to the desire of the wearer for the development of the design. The trendy design reflected on how the characteristic of the silver generation wants to look younger and the derived modularization method can be applied freely for expression. Since the range, structure, and formation where modularization can be applied are general, it is implied that there is a need to take sustainable development has to be conducted as the tool that can create different types of design.
Study on the Analysis regarding the Connection Network of Design Inspirations pursued by Modern Fashion Designers - Focus on the Concept of Fashion Collections -
Kim, Young Sam ; Kim, Jang Hyeon ; Kim, Sung Soo ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 351~363
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.351
This research explores diachronic fashion design trends through a structure analysis of a connection network based on fashion show concepts implemented by modern fashion designers from S/S 2009 to F/W 2013. The findings from this research are as follows. First, four categories affect the inspiration and thinking of design: the experience of the designer, social atmosphere and phenomena, natural sensitivity (or formative characteristics of natural objects), and the influence and quality of other fields. Second, in cases where the designers` experiences influenced design inspiration and thinking, designers express personal memories with keywords like high school, grandmother`s closet, prom, beauty and the beast, heritage, past, and reminiscence through design elements such as lines, silhouettes, materials, and colors. Third, the representative example of the social atmosphere and phenomena that influenced design inspiration and thinking was the 2008 Global Financial Crisis that reflected the social climate through design concepts of keywords such as Recession, Black, Economy, US, Depression, Gray, Dark Age, White and New York. Fourth, inspired by nature and the formative characteristics in design, the designers employed ornamental elements to collections and design concepts that focused on nature words connected to light, sun, wild, dirt, rock, moss, and trees. Fifth, the designers took their ideas from different fields of personal interest in the arts, science and humanities (sports, architecture, sculpture, painting, and literature) that were decisive in determining materials, design colors and silhouettes. The theme of architecture was analyzed as a central element that had an ongoing impact on the concepts of designers.
A Study of Official Hats Shown on Shaman`s Costumes of Seoul Village Gut
Kim, Eun-jung ; Yim, Lynn ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 364~371
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.364
This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman`s costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier`s felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride`s headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King`s official hat), and Daesu(Queen`s a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.
The Study of Impulse Buying Behavior according to Consumption Value in Mobile Fashion Shopping Mall
Kang, Eunmi ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 372~381
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.372
This study investigates differences in fashion products attributes, mobile shopping mall attributes, impulse buying behavior, and satisfaction according to mobile shoppingconsumption value. The findings provide new information on marketing strategy for mobile shopping malls. A total of 283 usable questionnaires were obtained from college students. Data were analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, and ANOVA using SPSS 21.0 for Windows. The results were as follows. First, according to the consumption value, consumer were classified into 3 groups: social/functional oriented, indifference and epistemic/emotional oriented. Second, the conspicuous-functional pursuit group considered utility and exhibition more important in regards to fashion products attributes for the consumption value group, the personality pursuit group also considered aesthetics and utility more important than other groups. Third, conspicuous-functional pursuit group considered continuous management more importantin regards to the importance ofmobile shopping mall attributes for the consumption value group, the personality pursuit group considered informationexchange more important than the other groups. Fourth, the conspicuous-functional pursuit group and Personality pursuit group considered impulse purchase behavior more important than the emotionalpursuit group. The conspicuous-functional pursuit group considered satisfaction after impulse purchase behavior more important than other groups.
Self-image and Fashion Leadership: Focusing on Clothing Involvement and Consumer Confidence
Youn, Song-Yi ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 382~391
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.382
People are exposed to diverse images and naturally find images to express themselves to others for personalsatisfaction. They present ideal images that they desire to obtain or actual images that they already have. People find differences between ideal images and actual images as well astry to overcome differences by managing appearance or purchasing fashion items. The congruence between real and ideal self-images and perceived body images stimulate clothing involvement or consumer confidence to influence fashion innovativeness and fashion opinion leadership. Fashion leaders are known for confidence when making buying decisions on new fashion products and are more likely to influence other consumers to buy new items. This study useda structural equation model to understand the influence of perceived self and body image on clothing involvement and consumer confidence as well as define how perceived images influence fashion leadership through clothing involvement and consumer confidence. The results of this study indicated that self-image congruence has a positive impact on social body image and personal body image. A positive influence of perceived body image on clothing involvement and consumer confidence was also detected. Fashion opinion leadership could be explained by clothing involvement and consumer confidence; however, fashion innovativeness could only be explained by consumer confidence.
The Effect of Mobile Image Exaggeration on Product Attitude
Yoon, Namhee ; Choo, Ho Jung ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 392~404
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.392
This study investigated how the image exaggeration influence consumer attitude toward product in mobile shopping. Image exaggeration was manipulated by adding light effects on image and adjusting the width for slender mirror effect. Subjects were randomly allocated to four mock-mobile website stimuli. The overall results showed that the image exaggeration had negative effect on product attitude mediated by diagnositicity. First, the mediation effect of diagnositicity between exaggeration and product attitude was tested by bootstap method. The diagnositicity fully mediated between two variables and exaggeration had negative total effect on diagnositicity. The image exaggeration had no direct effect on product attitude. Second, to test the moderating effect of image congruence between the image exaggeration and diagnositicity, conditional indirect effect of diagnositicity was analyzed. As a result, the moderating effect of image congruence was significant. When consumers perceived high self-image congruence with picture image on mobile website, the exaggeration had no negative effect on product attitude. This indicates self-image congruence counteracts the negative effect of the exaggeration on diagositicity. And the moderating effect of image aesthetics between the image exaggeration and product attitude was examinated by the conditional direct effect model. The analysis found that image aesthetics had significant moderating effects particularly on high or low levels of aesthetics. When image aesthetics was perceived as high, image exaggeration had negative effect on product attitude, whereas image aesthetics was low, image exaggeration had positive effect on product attitude. This result indicated that the positive exaggeration effects existed when images were aesthetically appealing.
Comparison between Clothing Sizing Systems of Korean and Foreign SPA Brands for Clothing Size Satisfaction of Tall Women in their Twenties
Kim, Hye Suk ; Kim, So Hyun ; Choi, Han Ra ; Nam, Yun Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 405~420
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.405
The purpose of this study is to identify the differences between clothing size satisfaction and clothing sizing systems of Korean and foreign SPA (specialty retailer of private label apparel) brands according to height group, and provide foundation material that can be used to establish product strategy from the perspective of Korean SPA brand clothing sizes in order to secure competitiveness in the international market. Satisfaction of tall women in their twenties with the clothing sizes of SPA brands was researched, and t-test was conducted to examine differences between clothing size satisfaction of Korean and foreign SPA brands between the two height groups. Then, differences in the size minimum and maximum values, size ranges, size intervals and size numbers between clothing sizing systems of Korean and foreign SPA brands were researched and comparatively analyzed. Existing clothing sizes need to make improvements considering the lengths and shoulder width of tall consumers. And Korean SPA brands need to diversify the range and number of sizes in the clothing sizing system, and set a separate tall-size group, or apply the relationship between vertical and horizontal sizes of clothing to establish a clothing sizing system. A product strategy that applies the results of this study will solve the clothing size dissatisfaction of tall female consumers and stimulate sales of Korean SPA brand clothing products. The study has value in that it extracted realistic problems by researching clothing sizing systems of products that are actually sold.
A Study on i-Fashion 3D Avatar`s Consumer satisfaction & Comparison of 3D and Direct Masurement - Based of Domestic University Students
Choi, Eunhee ; Do, Wolhee ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 421~428
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.421
This research is to understand customer satisfaction with virtual fitting based on a 3D body scanner and avatars as well as differences between avatars and the `real me`. To this end, this research examined Korean college students to facilitate 3D body scanning, avatar generation and surveys. The author used 3D body scan data with direct measurements to identify differences between the 3D body scan data-based `my avatar` and `real me` in the virtual dress fitting system. The survey results on `the level of customer awareness on 3D body scanner` found that the majority of both genders did not know about it and indicated a lower usability to incorporate IT technology into the fashion industry. The question in the 3D body scanning and avatar found an affirmative attitude. Satisfaction levels on the 3D avatars` similarity with `own body` and garment fitting were positive and indicated a need for further technological improvements to express the avatars identical to customers` own body. More research is necessary for the accuracy of sizes for 3D body scanning that measure body sizes while wearing clothes. Avatars based on such datamay be less similar to `own body` and cause customer dissatisfaction. Thus, further technology development is required to narrow gaps using data to make avatars that provide more accurate virtual fitting simulation services to customers.
A Study on Brassiere Development for the New Silver Generation Women
Park, Ja Young ; Jang, Jeong Ah ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 429~439
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.429
This study develops a new brassiere for new silver women. A new brassiere design was developed for the silver generation based on apreliminary survey; subsequently, a wire and no-wire type of brassier were developed after a second fitting evaluation. The results were as follows. First, in terms of brassiere design, the cup shape was designed as mold type full cup, shoulder straps were designed as camisole type with cups, bias tape was designed for body correction in the side line and mash tape was designed for easy movement below the cups. On the other side ofthe cup shape was a pocketdesigned on a support pad forthe wire type and a support panel to serve as a wire in the no-wire type brassiere. Second, brassiere patterns were designed by referencing the educational H pattern. Thetotal length was elongated by 5cmto reduce pressure when wearing a brassiere and the height of the front center increased by 8cm for the stability of the front center of the brassiere. In addition, the side line was moved back by 3cm and the width of the brassiere wings was designed widely at 10.5cm. Third, a wearing test was conducted for the wire type and the no-wire type brassiere with comparison products, using a 7-point Likert scale. Appearance results and movement tests for the wire and no-wire type showed a higher score than comparison products.
The Actual Wearing and Purchase Conditions of Bicycle Wear focused on the Active Senior Women
Jung, Hee-Kyeong ; Lee, Jeong-Ran ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 440~446
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.440
This study identified active senior women`s wearing and the purchase situation of bicycle wear to develop functional bicycle wear that can satisfy active senior consumers. The survey was conducted for women in their fifties and sixties who ride bicycles on a regular basis. A total of 119 questionnaires were used for data analysis excluding incompletely replied questionnaires. Data was analyzed by descriptive analysis, frequency analysis and cross analysis. The results are as follows. First, 50`s individuals represented 60% of this survey who continuously rodebicycles for 5 years or more. The purpose of riding bicycle was exercise, leisure and club activities. Second, they wore bicycle wear while riding due to activity, functionality and safety. There is also a requirement to manufacture comfortable bicycle wear easy to put on and take off and for old people. Third, considering the purchase situation of bicycle wear, the respondents had difficulties buying bicycle wear due to price. It is necessary to have bicycle wear at a reasonable price. Fourth, the most necessary functionsforbicycle wear materials were ventilation and durability. A major function needed for future developmentwill bethermoregulation.
A study of Developing Torso Master Pattern Using 3D body Measurement Data - Focusing on Women in their thirties proper Body Types -
Shin, Ju-Young Annie ; Nam, Yun-Ja ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 447~461
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.447
The purpose of this study is to develop a torso pattern that is highly representative for the proper body shape of women in their thirties. Size data of the women with age of 30 through 39 from the database of Size Korea 2004 were used for the study. In order to develop a master pattern which will be used as the benchmark for grading of research group, 4 existing torso block drafting methods were compared based on the data gathered and the block with the highest evaluation score was utilized as a reference point. For the analysis, data was divided into four types, only the data of 138 subjects which were evaluated at least by four or more experts as valid were used for the study. The major results can be summarized as follow. The women of bust girth of 91cm and height of 160cm which was turned out to be representative type of research group were used as standard measurement for the purpose of reflecting not only curve length of the 3D analysis measurement but also the difference between front and back thickness to the pattern. Dart locations were set based on front and back torso ease, shoulder area revisions, front sagging length 1.5cm and cross section crevice length analysis. According to the experts` appearance evaluation of the pattern was found to be better than the control pattern which was regarded as the best among 4 patterns created based on existing torso block drafting methods.
Effect of Hybrid Yarn Structure Composed of PP/Tencel/Quick dry PET on the Physical Property of Fabric for High Emotional Garment
Kim, Hyun Ah ; Son, Hwang ; Kim, Seung Jin ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 462~475
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.462
This paper investigated the characteristics of the physical properties of woven fabrics according to the yarn structure and fibre property. It was found that wicking property of woven fabrics made of sheath/core hybrid yarn were better than those of siro spun and siro-fil hybrid yarns, which was caused by platform for transport of moisture vapor by filaments on the core part of sheath core hybrid yarns. In drying property, the fabric specimen woven by PP/Tencel sheath core hybrid yarns as a warp and Coolmax/Tencel spun yarn as a weft showed quick drying property, which was caused by the sheath core hybrid yarn structure as drainage of water moisture and coolmax fibre characteristics as quick dry material. Concerning to breathability and thermal conductivity as heat transport phenomena, it was observed that breathability of fabrics woven with hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp and hi-multi filaments in the weft showed the lowest water vapor resistance, which was explained as due to for air gap in the fibres of the spun yarns to restrict the wet heat transport from perspiration vapor. Thermal conductivities of the fabrics woven with PET/Tencel siro-fil yarns in the weft and hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp revealed the highest values, which was observed as due to higher thermal conductivity of PET than PP and more contact point between fibres in the siro-fil and sheath core hybrid yarns.
Combination Dyeing of Silk Fabrics with Hibiscus flowers and Persimmon Juice Extract
Cho, Im Sun ; Lee, Jeong Sook ;
Fashion & Textile Research Journal, volume 17, issue 3, 2015, Pages 476~485
DOI : 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.3.476
The purpose of this research is to analyze the effects of persimmon juice and hibiscus flowers extract to perform combination dyeing of silk fabrics, with respect to color changes, fastness, and functionality. The optimal conditions as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration,
of dyeing temperature and 30 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and methods. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3, pre-mordants of
, post-mordanting. After repeated dyeing and post-mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatments. Color fastness of dyed fabrics with hibiscus flowers extract was improve considerably by combination dyeing with persimmon juice extract. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 99% deodorization rate, 99.9% Staphylococcus aureus rate and 99.9% Klebsiella pneumoniae.